Project Cabernet Franc, 2008: The Protocol
A summary of the Project Cabernet Franc protocol is presented below. As explained in my main article, Sam Harrop uses this protocol as a stimulus to thought and innovation, rather than a recipe-card for better wine. Nevertheless, it is still certainly of interest, as it highlights what have been the key points for discussion with interested vignerons.
Of particular note is the second key point in which Harrop advocates harvesting based on flavour ripeness even if this means picking fruit which is not physiologically ripe, ie. grapes still with green rather than brown pips. This reflects Harrop’s belief that the flavour – including any green elements – is what typifies the variety in the Loire, and that phenolic ripeness can be managed in the winery by reducing the extraction of tannins by decreasing or skipping maceration.
Key Areas of Focus
The key areas for the Cabernet Franc project are in viticulture and winemaking.
- Pruning: to get yields down and to restore balance to the vineyards. Canopy management critical and ensure shoot removal carried out in over vigorous vineyards. Also leaf plucking critical at the start of veraison to reduce herbaceous flavours.
- Harvest timing: winemakers must inspect and taste the fruit on a regular basis leading up to harvest. Timing of harvest is paramount to have a riper richer more balanced style of Cabernet Franc – harvest should ideally commence when fruit and phenolic ripeness are optimum. In warm years flavour ripeness will come earlier than phenolic ripeness and in this instance timing of harvest should be linked to flavour ripeness and not phenolic ripeness to ensure that typical fruit flavours of the variety and region are preserved.
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