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New Zealand Wine Annual Tasting 2008 Part 2

Naturally part 2 of my New Zealand notes deals with the red wines, and as you might imagine the dominant variety here was Pinot Noir. This variety has now usurped Chardonnay as New Zealand's second most widely planted variety (after Sauvignon Blanc, naturally), the vineyard having expanded from 1126 hectares in 2000 to 4638 in 2008, more than a four-fold increase in just 8 years. Exports have grown at a similar rate.

At last year's tasting I did wonder whether this phenomenal boom was a good thing; it seemed to me the quality of the wines on show didn't match the variety's reputation, and I speculated whether some producers were jumping on the Pinot bandwagon perhaps despite not having the right terroir, clones or maybe expertise. This year on the whole I thought quality was broadly good, with much more consistency across the spectrum than last year. Perhaps this was a matter of vintage; certainly many of the better wines this year were of the 2007 vintage. Good wines came from the likes of Spy Valley, Envoy (essentially a Spy Valley reserve wine, but released under the completely distinctive Envoy label), Craggy Range, Winegrowers of Ara and others. But without doubt it was Nigel Greening and his wines from Felton Road that stole the show. These were certainly the finest examples of New Zealand Pinot Noir I have ever encountered.

My notes are presented below according to region of origin. For my notes on the white wines, see part one. (23/10/08)

New Zealand Wine 2008 Part 2 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in October 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Ata Rangi Wild Earth Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2006: I didn't rate the 2005 highly, but this vintage shows mush better. A good colour, and slightly plump but gentle cherry fruit on the nose, spiced with a touch of game. The palate has a nice substance too, and appealing weight, with a slightly bitter twist in the midpalate. Good grip. This is a very nicely composed wine which still seems very youthful and would perhaps benefit from a year or two more in bottle. It could be very good indeed with time. 17+/20

Felton Road Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2007: This has a lovely nose, bright and vibrant, with a clean cherry fruit. It has great style. The palate has delicious character, vibrant and loaded with beautiful fruit. It is ripe, and textured, but certainly well composed and finely balanced. There is a touch of cinnamon to the cherry fruit here. Excellent wine. 18+/20

Felton Road Calvert Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2007: This has some spice on the nose, but is overall vibrant and fruit-rich. It has a somewhat softer, riper but more elegant presence on the palate than the preceding wine. Nevertheless it is certainly rich and creamy in comparison to many, with a lovely depth. There is a lot of weight, grip and vivacity here. Broad, spiced finesse. Excellent again. 18+/20

Felton Road Cornish Point Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2007: This has an exciting nose, dominated not so much by fruit but by notes of cloves and cinnamon. The palate has a wealth of tingling spice, full and fleshy, exotic and peppery, like freshly chewed red mustard leaves. This is a wine of immense style and fine balance which has to be the wine of the tasting. Truly excellent. 18.5+/20

Wild Rock Cupid's Arrow Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2006: Rather metallic strawberry notes on the nose, a little feral perhaps, not very expressive really though. Surprisingly it has quite a bit of flesh on the palate, rounded and full, with a bitter beetroot grip. Overall, though, supple, soft and rounded. Good. 14.5/20

Delta Vineyards Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2007: Feral-cherry fruit here, rather gentle in style, seemingly rather soft overall. The palate is indeed quite gentle, with moderate acidity and a soft, perfumed, rose-petal character. Gentle and feminine, with a touch chalk. Decent wine. 14.5/20

Delta Vineyards Hatter’s Hill Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2006: A paler colour but this reflects the vintage I think. Rather gamey and truffly on the nose. The palate has a soft and gentle character, very similar in composition to the basic cuvée, although it has a touch more firmness I think. Nice complexity to the flavour, and a bit peppery perhaps. Decent wine. 15/20

Envoy Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2006: This has a fine and elegant nose, with aromas of gamey cherry and an undeniable earthy-mineral element to it. Soft and fleshy on the palate, gentle and well balanced, with an appealing and elegant style. A subtle seam of fruit, savoury but vibrant, this is a very good wine. 17/20

Huia Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2007: A rather soft and feral nose. The palate is very soft too, with a rounded, soft, cherry skin and truffle element to it. Notes of beetroot too. There is some nice acidity here, although it does not seem well integrated. It may just need a little time. It is certainly a wine with good character. 16+/20

Matakana Estate Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2007: I really didn't like the 2005 vintage of this wine, but here we have a different kettle of fish. This has soft fruit on the nose, a touch medicinal in character, but certainly vibrant. Nicely textured, with good weight and balance, and an appealing broad presence on the palate. It has firm acidity underneath, well covered by fruit with has a good depth and complexity. A touch of grip at the finish. This is very good indeed. 17+/20

Spy Valley Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2007: A vibrant, dark cherry fruit here. It has a ripe style and to me plenty of appeal. A lovely substance on the palate, somewhat charry fruit, with a herby edge, but with great acidity and a svelte texture. Good weight. I think this has a really appealing style. 17.5/20

Spy Valley Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2006: Rather feral, certainly less ripe than the equivalent 2007, although there are some attractive beetroot and dark cherry aromas here. The palate is gentle, with good acidity and nicely defined fruit. It has substance, but also balance. And there is some depth here too. This is a different style, but still impresses. 17/20

Tinpot Hut Syrah (Marlborough) 2006: This is certainly young Syrah on the nose; sweet feral fruit dominates, with a touch of oak. A nice presence on the palate, gentle and quite complete, composed, with nice grip. It is not a huge or tannic wine though. It has a slightly charred character which distracts, but overall quite a nice wine. 14+/20

Winegrowers of Ara Composite Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2007: This offers some dusty cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is appealing, softly composed, delicate but fresh. It has cherry and beetroot character presented in a fairly vivacious style, and underneath there is a good grip of ripe tannins too. Really very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Winegrowers of Ara Resolute Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2007: A fresh and open nose, with notes of cherry skins and pebbles, and a little smoke too, perhaps oak-derived. The wine has a lovely gentle weight on entry, composed, slightly fat, but very stylish. Great flesh though, subtle composition, but vibrant acidity. This is a very well put-together wine. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Wither Hills Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2006: Smoky oak and gamey notes here, with a very forward element of crispy bacon. The palate is certainly pleasing, showing quite a bit of flesh, with a good and vibrant beetroot flavour, with notes of strawberry and cherry fruit. Vivacious, with plenty of acidity, this is a good and certainly good value wine. 15.5+/20

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Martinborough) 2006: A subdued nose, a touch gamey, stylish, withdrawn. I like it. One the palate great depth, a little cream, lovely flesh to it. There is a little oak showing. There is quite a lot of substance here, some grip, and a brooding element to its character. Overall, very stylish. 17+/20

Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Martinborough) 2006: Another chance to taste this wine, one year on. It is more open this year, with good fruit, showing depth and complexity. The palate is lovely, showing a supple, ripe and rounded composition, with substance and well balanced acidity. It still has a little touch of oak but nothing to spoil it. A delicious wine. 17+/20

Craggy Range Te Kahu Gimblett Gravels Syrah (Hawke's Bay) 2006: There is some good, creamy-berry fruit on the nose here, with a fresh and gently peppery character, with notes of raspberry and white chocolate. A lovely presence on the palate, great texture, nicely judged and supple weight, backed up by ripe tannins. This has excellent potential. 17.5+/20

Craggy Range Te Kahu Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon (Hawke's Bay) 2006: Deep and vibrant fruit on the nose here, with a slightly wild and earthy nuance to it. The texture is lovely though, rounded and well composed, with well covered ripe tannins and good, fresh acidity. There is plenty of potential here. Very good indeed. 17+/20

Esk Valley Black Label Pinot Noir (Hawke's Bay) 2006: Nice gamey fruit on the nose here, bright and fresh, but with a soft nature. Supple texture on entry, but showing a good presence of fruit to match the nose, gentle and well balanced, with a good backbone. Not overbearing, but with a good grip, and a fresh, slightly truffly finish. Good. 16+/20

Esk Valley Reserve Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon (Hawke's Bay) 2005: There is still quite a bit of oak on the nose here, but with sweet plummy fruit underneath, and a little hint of cream. A little leaner through the midpalate than I expected, but it shows grip and style here. The tannins are well covered with fruit, and overall this shows a good, vigorous balance. 16+/20

Matakana Estate Moko Cabernet Franc (Hawke's Bay) 2006: I tasted this vintage last year and it seemed quite closed down and I gave a broad and conservative score. Today it is much more open; there are notes of raspberry and chalk on the nose, and still a little toffee oak, but also a deeper, slightly earthy character. I like it. Well textured, somewhat chalky-minerally on the palate, with a nice supple weight. Rounded and a wine of some substance, this has fairly firm grip and certainly now has much more appeal. And obviously a higher score. 16.5+/20

Wild Rock Gravel Pit Red Merlot/Malbec (Hawke's Bay) 2006: Plump berry fruit on the nose, with a little leafy-green aspect to it. A nice texture, a good weighty character, with lots of deep and interesting flavour which has depth and a little style. Good wine. 15.5/20