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New Zealand Wine Annual Tasting 2007 Part 1
It
is never a good thing to become too focused on one particular region or country
when it comes to wine. When I feel it is time that I spend some time looking
beyond the wines of Bordeaux and the
Loire, regions which you might regard as my
'specialties', it is perhaps difficult to think of
somewhere more appealing than New Zealand.
Perhaps there is a certain synergy between the three regions; after all, Sauvignon Blanc plays a significant role in all, whether the wine be Sauternes, Sancerre or from New Zealand's South Island. The importance of Sauvignon Blanc is particularly obvious with the last of these three wine regions. Although New Zealand is certainly no longer synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc alone, this variety is unquestionably still a mainstay of the country's wine industry. Some leading figures in the field, such as Philip Gregan, head of NZ Winegrowers, have even intimated that the dependence on Sauvignon has already gone too far. This is a stance that should be taken seriously - over 70% of all New Zealand's exports are Sauvignon, and yet production continues to rise at an astronomical pace, with a 50% increase in 2006 alone. And it is also now clear that New Zealand has so much more to offer - not just fabulous Pinot Noir, which has replaced Chardonnay as the country's number two export after Sauvignon Blanc, but also Bordeaux-style blends and even Syrah.
In this tasting I took the opportunity to look at some of the latest releases, and I present the notes in two parts starting with the white wines. Obviously Sauvignon Blanc dominates, but Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Gris and even Verdelho all play a part, and there are even a couple of sparklers thrown in for good measure. The tasting was also an opportunity to taste the 2006 Sauvignon Blanc from Wither Hills, the wine that saw winemaker Brent Marris resign his position as chief judge of the New Zealand wine awards when it became apparent, through laboratory testing, that the wines Wither Hills had submitted for several wine competitions were different to those available to purchase off the shelf. With such a huge production, however, it is perhaps not difficult to accept that there will be variation between batches. The wine tasted here was actually very good; what that means for the other 1.2 million bottles produced, however, is perhaps an unknown.
In part two I focus on the red wines. (4/12/07)
New Zealand Wine 2007 Part 1 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in November 2007. Click
to locate stockists.
Mount Difficulty Pinot Gris (Central Otago) 2006: Rather a subdued
nose here, but there is a rock and mineral element to it, with some smoke-tinged
fruit. Soft and rounded character, although with a firm minerally streak
mirroring the nose. Rather spicy and peppery, and it seems to leave a little
heat in the mouth on the finish. Good for spicy food, maybe? 15?/20
Mount Difficulty Sauvignon Blanc (Central Otago) 2006: There is a lot
of classic Sauvignon style here, creamy capsicum, grass and gooseberry. It will
please lovers of this style I am sure. Bright, quite well defined, rather sharp
and green fruit on the palate though. The acidity has a rather peppery edge to
it, and the concentration doesn't match what I was expecting from the aromatic
intensity. Good though. 15.5-16/20
Mount Difficulty Chardonnay (Central Otago) 2004: There is quite a
green tinge to this wine. An obvious oak fermentation nose, but with bright
yellow-green fruit behind it. Smoky-buttery aromatic character. Rounded, toasty,
oak ferment notes on the palate also, fresh wood in abundance, accompanied by
soft fruits presented in a very gentle fashion. A touch harsh maybe. If the oak
integrates it might pick up a little; the fruit quality is good, but I find all
the wood rather heavy-handed. 15+?/20
Craggy Range Glasnevin Gravels Vineyard Riesling (Waipara) 2006: A
very pale hue, rather a reserved nose, with a bare touch of lemon curd, pepper
and mineral. A touch flashy and ripe, but not excessive residual sugar. Quite
nicely defined, off dry, and sadly the acidity is a little low which lessens the
definition of the wine. Bright and firm finish, though, and overall this has
good style. 16.5/20
Waipara Springs Premo Riesling (Waipara) 2005: This has 35 g/l of
residual sugar. A good smoky character, with bright and minerally fruit. Nice,
rounded, fleshy and slightly sweet palate. Good character, a bit peachy, with a
god acid backbone. This certainly has appeal. Very good. 16.5-17/20
Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) NV: Believed to be based
predominantly on the 2003 vintage, and probably a different cuvee to that I
tasted in November 2006. A nicely developed nose here, showing some richness,
and a creamy, slightly honeyed character. Bright and still youthful on the
palate though, with a tinge of green fruit in the background. Attractive though.
Firm and vivacious. Very good. 16.5-17+/20
Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) 2002: The first bottle was plainly
corked; remarkably there was some debate as to this fact. The second was fine,
showing a richer, toffee-tinged nose. This character comes through on the palate
as well, but it also has a very incisive style rather like the non-vintage
bottling. There is a lifted mousse, and the finish is just lovely. Great style
here. 17+/20
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2007: A very, very pale hue.
A bright blast of grassy fruit on the nose, with powerful lemon cream character
presented in a very well defined, fresh style. Notes of asparagus and
in-your-face gooseberry. On the palate it is big, quite minerally, with sweetly
ripe and yet fresh and green fruit, which obviously sounds paradoxical. Fruit
pastille character, lots of fresh acidity, and a big and creamy finish. An
excellent example of the style. 17.5+/20
Craggy Range Avery Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: Again
a warm and minerally nose, with subtle notes of capsicum and also some white
pepper. Broad, warm, peppery and spicy palate, but underneath there is a good
supporting structure composed of very firm tingling acidity. Nice, lively
finish. This is also good. 16.5/20
Hunter's Miru Miru Sparkling (Marlborough) NV: It has been a few years
since I last sampled Hunter's Miru Miru - which translates from Maori as
bubbles. This is 60% Chardonnay, the remainder Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier,
and it has undergone complete malolactic fermentation, and has spent two years
on its lees (with bātonnage) prior to bottling. It has a nice, partridge
eye tinge to the colour, and a very open, fruity character reminiscent of canned
peaches, with a grassy edge. There is a good mousse, a soft rocky-peachy flavour
and a nice freshness. It is rather obvious and simple, but is clean and
attractive, although the finish is short. Good. 16/20
Hunter's Riesling (Marlborough) 2006: This has a rather soft nose,
with a deft touch of minerals and smoke. The palate has a similarly soft,
rounded style, with a touch of creaminess to the texture. Notes of lime and
rocks. It is rather broad and beefy in style, with quite a bit going on although
it all seems out of focus and lacking direction at present. It is a little hot
towards the finish, too. 15/20
Hunter's Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: A rich, creamy, yellow
capsicum nose. It has a very broad and flavoursome palate, with lots of
greengage, gooseberry and capsicum notes. Towards the finish it takes on a
bigger, more forceful style. There is a lot of very typical Sauvignon character
here, backed up by a decent structure, and overall this is pretty good. 15/20
Hunter's Kaho Roa Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2005: This Sauvignon
sees a rather different treatment, including fermentation and then ageing in
French oak, of which 20% is new, for eight months. It has a typically toasty oak
nose, and although it has the freshness of Sauvignon it doesn't have a lot of
fruit character. Creamy weight, broad and soft, with a further lick of oak at
the finish. Quite nice. 15.5+/20
Hunter's Chardonnay (Marlborough) 2006: This is managed in very much
the same manner as the Sauvignon Blanc, but with ten months in oak rather than
eight. This has a peachy white fruit and oak-ferment nose which is actually very
nicely defined. It has brightness, despite the oak influence. It has a creamy
weight, bright white and yellow fruits on the palate, with a toffee-tinged
finish. This actually has a very good style. 16.5/20
Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: An attractive,
rather reserved nose. But the fruit is here, and there is a little touch of
creaminess too. Soft, yellow and green capsicum and peppery gooseberry on the
palate, which has a bright and direct character. Nicely put together, firmly
composed, with acidity straight down the line. Good style. 17/20
Wild Rock The Infamous Goose Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: A
very pale hue. Interesting powdery, smoky mineral nose. Similar character on the
palate, with a soft structure. Quiet rounded and a touch creamy, with yellow
capsicum flavour. Interesting, rather broad, not too well defined really.
Interesting wine, though. 15.5/20
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: A nice, densely
composed style, with notes of grass, gooseberry and asparagus. A lovely palate,
very well defined, with bright acidity well wrapped in fruit. Slightly fleshy,
and an appealing peppery, mineral streak. This is very good indeed. 17+/20
Wither Hills Chardonnay (Marlborough) 2004: A rounded, fruit-rich
nose. There is a creamy, buttercreamy element wrapped around some good, bright
fruit. This is very appealing, and has a lovely definition. Bright, slightly
resinous in texture, with well defined flavour, underpinned by good acidity.
This has a really nice style, with well balanced oak. Very good. 17/20
Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Martinborough) 2006:
A warm an open style, minerally and broad, with a sort of toffee richness as a
nuance alongside. Although it sounds very atypical it is attractive. On the
palate, good structure, broad and warmly styled, firm and a touch peppery. This
is surprisingly good. 16.5/20
Palliser Estate Pinot Gris (Martinborough) 2006: A rather Alsatian
nuance on the nose, which has lots of juicy fruit salad character, although with
a honeyed richness that is perhaps more New World in style. Really nice, fleshy
and rounded palate, but with a bright and peppery character laced with notes of
bacon. There is an papery edge to it which is a little unusual, but a firm,
slightly oily presence which is nice. Certainly an interesting wine. 16.5/20
Palliser Estate Chardonnay (Martinborough) 2005: Ripe, slightly
honeyed fruit style on the nose, with honeyed oak in the background. A rather
buttery edge, rounded bright and creamy, and infused with more oak. On the
palate it is quite lifted, but rounded, and shows a little oak tannin at the
finish. Nice style. 16/20
Palliser Estate Riesling (Martinborough) 2006: Not a huge amount to be
found on the nose here, but there is a steely element which will no doubt appeal
to many. fairly nice definition, rounded but not showing a lot of character at
the moment to my palate. But it has a very good structure, fairly firm acids
behind a nicely composed substance to the fore. This has some potential, but I
would not open and drink at the moment. 16+/20
Esk Valley Black Label Chenin Blanc (Hawke's Bay) 2006: It is always
interesting to taste New World expressions of the variety responsible for some
of my most favourite wines. This has a nice, clean nose., although it is perhaps
short on character. The palate is quite fleshy, especially through the
midpalate, and although quite peppery is also unassuming. Technically quite a
correct wine, but not showing a lot of Chenin character. I suspect this will
develop in the short term. 15+/20
Esk Valley Black Label Verdelho (Hawke's Bay) 2006: Quite a rounded,
peppery, buttermilk nose. The palate is also rather soft, building in character
through the midpalate, to a firm and grippy highpoint. There are notes of butter
and cream, but these are more notes of flavour than texture. There is even a
little nut. Certainly this is interesting to drink, in the same fashion as the
Chenin. 15+/20
