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Northern Rhône 1996

The Rhône Valley has seen a run of excellent vintages in recent years, with 1998, 1999 and 2000 all receiving glowing reports from various quarters. The 1998 vintage seems to be a year that favoured the south, whereas 1999 seems to have favoured the north, although both vintages were very good across the board. But what of earlier vintages, such as 1996?

In 1996 the Northern Rhône was blessed with a long growing season, with a warm rather than hot July and August. September remained dry, with fine, clear skies, perfect weather for the harvest. The temperate summer gave rise to concerns about high acidities, and sensible vignerons delayed the harvest for as long as possible. This was to ensure that maturity of fruit and ripeness were sufficient to match the high acid levels in order to produce a balanced wine. Nevertheless, many concerns have been expressed regarding acidity levels in the 1996 wines of the Northern Rhône.

This very small tasting of 1996 Northern Rhône wines, admittedly too small to make any real judgement, provided an opportunity to look at a few familiar wines in this vintage to see how they were fairing. (19/7/01)

Northern Rhône 1996 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in July 2001. Click to locate stockists:

Crozes-Hermitage

Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1996: Little difference in colour with these three wines, but this is perhaps the least opaque wine in the flight. Lots of new oak apparent on the nose, with burnt caramel and orange peel notes. Quite a round, full-bodied and stylish palate, underpinned by a strong tannic backbone. Lots of good, dark, inky fruits. No troublesome acidity, in fact should make for a balanced wine once all the oak has integrated. 17/20

Cornas

Thierry Allemand Cornas Les Chaillots 1996: A dense red wine. Smoky nose, with complex notes of spices and fermented black beans on the nose, not noted when I last tasted this wine just six months ago. Lovely palate. Obviously very tannic and hard, but with good rather than problematic acidity. Clean, austere, meaty fruit waiting in the wings for the tannins to settle down. Notes of smoky charcoal and Indian spices on the clean finish. Despite the hard, youthful stance this wine has an elegant texture and has superb potential. 17.5+/20

Côte-Rôtie

Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 1996: A closed nose, which opens out to give aromas of rich, sweet black fruits, with charcoal and some elegant orange blossom notes. In time this wine seems the most approachable on the nose. Tannic and inky on entry, the wine develops a round, full, beautifully textured character through the midpalate. Although prominent, the tannins have a soft and supple profile. This is an elegant wine with fine acidity which, even at this youthful stage, glides across the palate and is a pleasure to drink. Has an excellent structure for further development. 17+/20