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The Wines of Navarra Part 1

Situated just to the north and east of Rioja, the two largely separated by the course of the Ebro, lies Navarra. Once a grand kingdom that ran from Barcelona at one end, across northern Spain and the Pyrenees, to Bordeaux at the other, Navarra is now a considerably smaller but still autonomous region of Spain. Although viticulture is important here, the region seems to be best associated with the pilgrimage to the tomb of the apostle James the Great which is located in northwest Spain. The main route to the tomb passes through Pamplona, which is just to the north of Navarra's five viticultural subregions, pictured in the map above. Indeed, it may be that demand from the thousands of pilgrims passing through the region each year was a principal factor in the establishment of Navarra's vineyards. In more recent times Navarra has been, like Rioja, a refuge for vignerons from east of the Pyrenees fleeing the scourge of Phylloxera. The louse then arrived here in 1892, decimating the vineyards, despite by this time a good understanding of the pest and its lifecycle. Although the recovery was quicker than it had been in France, by the end of the 20th Century the area committed to vine was still a small fraction of what it had been one hundred years earlier.

The vineyards are divided into five subregions, as indicated on the map above, with about 17000 hectares planted. The Ribera Baja in the south east is the driest and one of the most important, with chalk and limestone soils in the north and more stony grey soils to the south. Just to the north is Ribera Alta, another large region, together the two accounting for just over 60% of the region's vineyards. In parts very dry, the soils here are more loamy, and more alluvial in nature, with sand and clay nearer the Ebro. Next is Tierra Estella, characterised by chalky soils and a more humid climate, and then Baja Montaña, a region of clay and chalk soils with some humidity. Finally the smallest of the five regions, Valdizarbe, which accounts for just 8% of the vineyards. As with other regions, this region has principally chalky soils with a climate that runs from dry to mildly humid.

Although we are very close to Rioja here, it Garnacha (Grenache) rather than the indigenous Tempranillo that dominates. The first variety accounts for perhaps 80% of the wines produced, the second perhaps 15%. Many of these wines are rosé (or rather I should say rosado) rather than red, and for many years the region has been seen principally as a source of pink wine above all else. In recent years this would appear to be changing, principally because of a shift towards red, perhaps in part stimulated by outside investment and in part by the regional research station, EVENA. As a result there is better viticulture, better winemaking, and increased use of international varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in the blend with Tempranillo and Grenache. As for white varieties again the wines, which account for a small percentage of the region's production, are dominated by an indigenous variety, the frequently unexciting Viura, as well as Macabeo. In recent years, however, large areas have been committed to Chardonnay, and today there are even a few sweet styles dotted here and there amongst the dry table wines.

The arrival of the annual Wines of Navarra tasting in Edinburgh was my first significant opportunity to take a look at the wines of this historic region. Although I did not have time to taste everything, I sampled a reasonable cross-section of what was on offer, concentrating mainly on the red wines, although there was also the occasional white wine, a copious number of rosados, and a small handful of sweet wines available. I begin here with my notes on the latter three categories. In general the whites, which were principally made from Chardonnay, tended to lack impact, many displaying soft, diffuse, perfumed, feminine aromas. Judging by these wines, although there has clearly been much investment in the region, with the introduction of stainless steel, good quality oak, and so on, there is still some work to do. My sample size of the rosados was too small to generalise, although clearly the two wines I tasted were uninspiring. Of the sweet wines, the late harvest Chardonnay from Bodegas Prínipe de Viana was perhaps the most interesting such wine, but the other wines were uninspiring, perhaps a consequence of the preference for using Muscat à Petits Grains for this style.

See part two for my notes on the red wines. (23/12/08)

The Wines of Navarra Part 1 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Bodegas Ada Minotauro Blanco 2007: A blend of Garnacha Blanca and Viura, this wine has a surprisingly soapy, chalky, waxy character on the nose, with a minerally rock-dust element too. A very firm, solidly composed wine on the palate, with a full and foursquare grip in the middle, it has decent acidity although overall quite a muscly style. A little confected fruit at the finish. 15/20

Bodegas Camilo Castilla Montecristo Blanco 2007: This is made solely from Muscat à Petits Grains, and the wine certainly wears that information on its sleeve. It has a very perfumed character, with a typical musky, orange-scented nose. A soft entry, but then a lean character, showing diffuse, low-concentration musky fruit, with a bitter twist at the end. I don't find this style particularly appealing. 12/20

Bodegas Campos de Enanzo Chardonnay 2007: This wine has rather soft, chalky, lemony fruit on the nose, with some perfumed minerality. The palate also feels rather soft, with orange blossom fruit, just a little grip, and gentle acidity. It has a rather clean appeal to it, but seems rather diffuse and easy going to be rated too highly. 14.5/20

Bodegas Chivite Gran Feudo Blanco 2007: Another 100% Chardonnay, fermented in stainless steel. Clean and chalky perfume to the nose, rather soapy-herby in character. Very clean and steely on entry, with nice acidity from the outset. There is a little substance to it, some grip too, although a rather distinctive chalky-confected character is the dominant feature through to the finish. Certainly an interesting wine. 14.5/20

Bodegas Inurrieta Orquidea 2007: This unusually named cuvée is 100% Chardonnay. The nose is quite chalky, soft and papery, with a little herb. There is a touch of flesh on the palate, good acids but rather subdued flavour. Nevertheless it has a fresh character in its favour. 13.5/20

Bodegas Prínipe de Viana Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007: Fermented and held in French oak barrels for three months, this wine does not display its woody origins as overtly as some barrel-fermented wines. It has a rather feminine nose, clean and chalky, with the barrel notes very subtle. Fresh, with lean and green fruit on the palate, rounded but crisp, and certainly fresh. 14/20

Bodegas Valcarlos Fortius Chardonnay 2006: An unoaked cuvée, this has clean lemony fruit on the nose, and an attractive substance. Fresh, chalky, gentle, soft, with a fleshy but understated character. It has a touch of perfume, but overall not an unattractive wine. 14.5/20

Vinos y Viñedos Finca Lasierpe Blanco 2007: Bottled under a synthetic closure. Nice, slightly perfumed, chalky-stony nose. The palate shows a similar character, a little flesh but fairly flabby overall. A gentle style that lacks the vigour I am looking for, and a little bitterness at the end. 13/20

Bodegas Chivite Gran Feudo Rosado 2007: This is 100% Garnacha. It has a pale pink hue, and the nose isn't displaying a lot of character today. The palate seems to be following the nose, in that it fails to show a lot of character although it does have a little confected fruit and bitter acidity. To my palate it isn't a wine that I find full of appeal and interest. 12/20

Bodegas Ochoa Rosado Garnacha 2007: A clean, leafy, strawberry fruit nose here, with little twists of raspberry and cream. Fresh, with nice acidity, crisply texture, with a dry and appealing layer of redcurrant-raspberry fruit. This is a simple but attractive rosado. 14/20

Bodegas Ochoa Vino Dulce de Moscatel 2007: This is 100% Muscat à Petits Grains. The nose has a strange combination of oranges and musky, perfumed soap, which in combination reminds me of some artificially fruit-flavoured medicines I was administered as a child. Fat, sweet, unbalanced on the palate, with chalky-musky orange to the fore, and gentle acidity behind. 12/20

Bodegas Prínipe de Viana Late Harvest Chardonnay 2006: Made from botrytis-free fruit harvested in October 2006. It certainly has an attractive nose, with nicely mineral-tinged flavours of honey and orange blossom. The palate has a fat richness, oranges with caramel flavours, but is nicely defined by the acidity. Lots of bright character here, and a dense layer of fruit at the end. An attractive wine. 16+/20

Vinos y Viñedos Dominio Lasierpe Finca Lasierpe Moscatel 2006: This is made solely from Muscat à Petits Grains. It has an unusual character, with a medicinal edge, and aromas of roast meats, especially ham, alongside the more commonly encountered honey and oranges. Fat, peppery, spiced oranges and tangerines on the palate, this has musky but vibrant flavour but a fat and rich texture. Chalky acids. At the finish, notes of burnt sugar and old-fashioned, dark, thick cut marmalade. Interesting. 14.5/20

• See part two for my notes on the red wines.