Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Gneiss 2006: A fresh and limpid hue, with a fresh nose of minerals, sea salt and stone. The palate is very dry, almost austere, certainly very taut and withdrawn, with a rapier-like quality to the finish. Underneath there is a little fleshy substance, and a nice, sour character which I like. At the moment it seems a little challenging, but it certainly shows some potential. Could be very good. 17+/20

Louis Metaireau Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 'Grand Mouton' 2005: A pale, pale, straw coloured wine with a little hint of green. The nose is delightfully fresh and yet also expressive, almost rich in aroma, with notes of salted herbs and a rocky, minerally character, with fresh citrus nuances. Wonderful. So very nicely defined on the palate, with straight, well defined, crisp and precise acidity carrying a nicely rounded texture and buoyant, mineral and lemon flavour. On the midpalate, notes of herbs and minerals, spiced up by an appealing spritz. Really very good indeed. 17/20

Jo Pithon Anjou Blanc Les Pépinières 2006: A straw-gold hue, and a nose hugely typical of Chenin, presented in a style marked by slight oxidation. There are notes of ginger and apple pastry, over aromas of golden syrup and sponge cake. On the palate though it has a very full style, plenty of substance, and is clean despite that oxidised edge. The flavours are spiced with pepper, and there is much grip and structure beneath. I'm not sure how this wine would progress in the cellar, but it certainly offers some interest now. 16/20

Chateau de Fesles Bonnezeaux 'F de Fesles' 1998: A rich and golden appearance in the glass. The nose is enticing, Gently honeyed, aromatic, quartz-minerally, with fresh quince, herbal tea and more. Later oranges, and cream. Fresh, elegant, sweet, just a little fat, broad but balanced and stylish. It has plenty of appeal, just a little touch of caramel richness, and plenty of length. Great acidity, lovely presence and balance, very complete, with a good bitter orange streak through to the finish. The strange thing is, despite this being the estate's second wine, and from a lesser vintage for the region, this is one of the most enjoyable wines I have ever had from Fesles. Beautiful, fresh, elegant and lively. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20

La Roulerie Coteaux du Layon Chaume 2005: A pale but yellow-golden wine. The nose is all candied fruits, especially sweet and dried pineapple, canned pears and sweet syrup. The palate is fresh, light and delicate, undeniably sweet, nicely balanced although simple in terms of flavour, and not in possession of the greatest depth or substance you will find in this appellation. There are notes of pear, apple-mint and a hint of white pepper, though, which certainly provide some interest. This makes for good and unfussy drinking, and is very good value. 16/20

Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon "Le 20" 1998: This cuvée was produced to celebrate 20 years of viticulture for Delesvaux, from 1978 through to 1998. The wine has a remarkable colour, a deep and burnished orange-gold, with aromas of botrytis, with a bitter edge. This character comes through on the palate, where the hugely rich and viscous body is spiced with honey, botrytis and marmalade, but also more lifted elements such as herbs, especially thyme. A very creamy style, rich, with grip and substance, although the acidity is certainly somewhat overwhelmed. Nevertheless it is certainly a noteworthy wine, and there is much here that is good. 17.5/20

Bouvet-Ladubay Mlle Ladubay Saumur Brut 2005: This wine has a pale straw hue, and a rich and effervescent bead. The nose has herby, thyme-tinged, chalky rock dust with an appealing suggestion of stone fruit just like the very first bottle if I recall correctly. A fresh and clean palate, with a mineral freshness, but with that sweet fruit richness coming in through the midpalate, buoyed along quite perfectly by the vibrant acidity. It remains delicate and vivacious, whilst showing a lovely seam of fruit. This is fabulous value for money, and great drinking within its own right. 17.5/20

Cave de Saumur Saumur Les Nivières 2005: This wine has a good dark colour in the glass, and a delightful nose of cherry stones and black pepper. Fresh, lean, full of character and typicité on the palate, which is nicely defined. The fruit has an appealing lean character to it, but it is still full of flavour. Fresh acids and light grip produce a lovely, firm, rather tight composition. It culminates in a short but fresh finish. This is a nice wine. 16/20

Domaine des Deux Moulins Coteaux de l'Aubance 2003: An appealing fresh but rich golden hue in the glass. The nose gives off scents of honey, quince, fresh pastries especially lemon patisserie, with a minerally and botrytis-laden core. It has a fresh and well defined character on the palate, with a creamy although complex style. Nevertheless it remains fresh and light-footed despite this complexity and richness, with an impressive structure, a light grip at the end and a fine length. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Antoine Sanzay Coteaux de Saumur 2003: This wine is from old vines on chalky soils, harvested with three tries, fermented over a six month period and then élevé sur lie for eight months in oak. It has a lemon-gold hue, and a nose of crystalline fruit, pineapple, pastries and herbs. Quite pure and defined on the palate, rich and creamy but with a vivacious bright character, this has a fine and pervasive presence. The end is crisp and clipped but there is still an appealing, lingering finish. Very good. 16.5/20

Domaine de la Guilloterie Coteaux de Saumur 2003: This wine, from the Dureau brothers in St Cyr en Bourg, has a nose of honey, vanilla and cinder toffee, presented in a very light and gentle fashion with just a little botrytis character underneath. The palate is rich, elegant and balanced, pure and firmly composed, although it is quite generous too. It has plenty of style, and rich butterscotch notes on top of the light and well poised substance. A rare treat. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Domaine des Murailles Neuves Coteaux de Saumur 2003: A wine from Bruno Richard, in Varrains. This has a pale hue, and a crystalline fruit nose, pure and only slightly honeyed, more elegant and floral than some other examples. The palate, though, is rich and sweet, with exuberant fruit, with flavours of mango, pear, tangerine spiked with pepper, ashes and minerals. A lovely grip completes the picture. It is rather tight on the finish, but otherwise is really very good indeed. 17/20

François Pinon Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé NV: A pale golden hue, and a plentiful bead. There follows a nose of weedy and green elements, with touches of stone, mineral and rock-dust too, perhaps with a little citrussy orange peel alongside. A very taut palate, fresh and loaded with citrus minerality, buoyed along by fine acidity and a crisp mousse. Really very good, fresh and characterful wine. 16.5/20

Philippe Alliet Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2004: A fine colour, fairly dense, with a ruby red rim. There is a lot of Chinon character on the nose, with some smoky and brambly fruit alongside some bright and leafy cherry with a fine sense of definition. A fresh, juicy, sappy sour cherry fruit dominates the palate, with piles of character, backed up by some appealing weight, although it is held together in a taut composition. This has a really lovely style, very bright and tasty, with a fine, stony character. Delicious, and from a lesser vintage too. 17+/20

Domaine du Colombier Chinon 2005: Drinking Colombier has the potential to be poignant; I remember drinking a bottle (I forget the vintage) as a student, on the eve of my departure for my first solo exploration of the Loire in 1993. Quite a dark, garnet-red hue here. A good nose, very typical, with aromas of blackcurrant leave, green blueberries, smoke and iron. It is enticing, fresh and characterful. Full but not fleshy, lean and a little smoky, with tomato leaf and celery seed. Gentle grip well balanced by fruit and a little texture. Nice acidity. It takes an hour or so to open up, but once it has done so it offers a good example of the appellation. Good. 16+/20

Domaine des Ouches Bourgueil Les Ouches 2003: This wine is from clay and flint soils, and is hand-harvested. The appearance is still very youthful, a red purple hue. The nose has some stony red fruit, with a rather savage, animal fur and rather wild characteristics on the nose. There is a lovely freshness on the palate though, with lots of tannic grip and acidity providing a structure for the fresh fruit. It has a slightly high-toned finish, but otherwise shows a lot of Bourgueil character. This is very good, and certainly has cellar potential. 17+/20

Frederic Mabileau Bourgueil Les Racines 2005: This wine has a very appealing and dark hue in the glass. On the nose there is crunchy fruit, with a green, blackcurrant character, peppered with a rich, herby edge. This wine has a very fresh and cool style, stony and firm, medium bodied at best. A very firm acidic core, ripe and fresh, showing crisp fruit with plenty of greenery too. It culminates in a sappy and gently tannin-infused finish. Overall this wine has a good, bright style, lean and stony rather than fleshy, but appealing all the same. This is good. 15/20

Audebert et Fils Bourgueil Clos Sénéchal 2003: A deep colour here, not opaque, dusky black hue. Nose not very expressive at first, before slightly hot cherry skins, pepper, and despite the warm vintage it still shows some celery seed and courgette aromas. A soft, warm, rounded entry, rather fuzzy and unfocused, then showing a much, much firmer grip through the midpalate and a hard texture towards the finish. Rock hard right at the end. Nice acids, light concentration, an interesting grip, plum skins and leather, and perhaps a touch stalky, followed by a little tangy sweetness at the finish. This is an interesting wine. 15.5/20

Domaine de la Charmoise Les Cépages Oubliés (VdP de la Jardin de France) 2004: This is 100% Gamay de Bouze, a variety believed to have originated from Burgundy, specifically from Bouze, a small village near Beaune. Underneath the cork, a huge mass of tartrate crystals, stained deep purple. The wine has a dark and inky hue, perhaps reflecting the red rather than clear juice of this teinturier variety. The nose has depth and great character, showing plenty of rich and sweet Maraschino cherry, with vibrant, roasted, perfumed overtones. The palate has a silky-supple texture, and although there is a stony side to its character it still has a broad and full presence, with plenty of delicious dark cherry and leafy blackcurrant fruit. Vivacious, and yet a touch meaty, this is impressive stuff indeed. 17/20

Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Grande Réserve 2006: This has a green-tinged hue, and some appealing fruit on the nose, with aromas of pears, and green apples, seemingly leafy, although with a slightly warming, autumnal edge to it. The palate is quite rich too, nicely poised, with a good substance and balancing acidity. There is some flesh to the wine, even a little meat you might say, but this is countered by attractively lifted flavours of blackcurrant leaf. There is plenty of character here, right through to the finish. Very good indeed. 17+/20

Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Les Grands Champs 2007: A pale and green-tinged wine. It shows rather plump fruit on the nose, although it is bright and herby, with nice pear and stone fruit aromas. There is plenty of substance on the palate, a grippy midpalate and finish backed up by lots of good acidity. The fruit profile is appealing, rather exotic, with noted of clementines and minerally, spiced red pepper, and the overall impression is of a bright and lively wine. This is very good indeed. 17.5+/20