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Three from Chateau Laulan Ducos

There can be few estates in the swathe of vineyards entitled to the Médoc appellation, north of St Estèphe, that I am more familiar with than Laulan Ducos. In fact, in view of my tasting experience of this unsung property, I suspect I know none better. Having started with the 2000 vintage, this latest trio of wines sent over by Frédéric Ducos for me to taste completes an unbroken nine-vintage run of tasting the wines of this property. The three wines assessed here are the 2008, 2007 and 2006 vintages, and each seemed very true to form.

I started with the 2007, which was lighter then the two that followed, although showed more depth than I expected based on my early impressions of the vintage formed during the primeur tastings in April 2008. I look forward to returning once again to this vintage later this year when it will be in bottle; perhaps there will be one or two surprises?

Then came the 2006, a richer and firmer style with slightly figgy fruit which certainly offers some potential for the cellar, before finishing with the 2008 which was very reminiscent of many recently tasted barrel samples, with its vibrant hue, fresh and crystalline fruit aromas and juicy flavours. Of the three wines tasted here this was certainly my favourite, although as always we must remind ourselves that this is merely a barrel sample, representative indication of what the future holds, so definitive judgement must be reserved for another day. (5/6/09)

Three from Chateau Laulan Ducos - Tasting Notes

Tasted in June 2009. All my notes on the wines of Chateau Laulan Ducos, including those below, are collated under my Laulan Ducos profile. Click to locate stockists.

Chateau Laulan Ducos 2008: A barrel sample, tasted just a week or two after returning from the Bordeaux primeur tastings, this wine has a vibrant colour, as might be expected, with a good, rich depth of pigment. The nose is lovely, just brimming with fresh, crystalline fruit character, along with a little smoky element. The entry starts off with a well judged texture, before showing a freshness in the midpalate, characterised by a lively acid backbone and followed through by a sappy, deliciously sweet-sour fruit character. Vivacious, almost juicy in quality, and yet with an undercurrent of extract, texture and tannin, this is lovely, I hope it retains some of this appeal through the élevage. 16-16.5+/20

Chateau Laulan Ducos 2007: The first of the three wines I tasted here, this is also the first chance, excluding Margaux and one or two others, to revisit this vintage since primeurs week. It has a good depth of colour, more than expected, and a good clean style on the nose; there is a dark fruit, a little fuzzy and unfocused, but there is some depth and concentration to it, more than I expected for the vintage anyway. There isn't a lot of flesh, but with its light furry tannic structure and fresh acidity it all sits together well. Within the context of the vintage this is a good effort. All the same, a lower score, but comparable to many grander names in this vintage. 14+/20

Chateau Laulan Ducos 2006: This has a different style evident on the nose when compared to the 2007; a little richer, darker fruit, with little roasted elements on the edge, like subtly roasted cashew nut. The palate has more texture, more weight, in combination with a solid structure; a firm spear of tannins in the middle, big slightly sappy fruit, little notes of fig in with the cherry, and softly ripe tannins, welcoming and well composed. This seems softer than many of the grands vins tasted at two years of age at the UGC tasting. The finish is promising, with ripe very toothsome tannins coating the mouth, and bitter-edged fruit. This is a good wine. 15.5+/20