Binet Cuvée Selection NV: A very mealy and characterful nose to this Champagne, with rich, honey-toffee and caramel-apple aromas. Attractive, rounded style on the palate, middleweight, but fresh despite the richness. Less impact and complexity than I expected from the nose. Surprisingly soft acidity too, and a rather short finish. Good points here though. 15.5/20

Philipponnat Royale Réserve Brut NV: Fresh, rather yeasty nose. On the palate a lively mousse, although the wine itself has a rather soft character underneath. It is rounded, yeasty like the nose, a little chalky, full and slightly sappy. Some better substance in the midpalate. Fairly good. 15/20

Philipponnat Réserve Rosé Brut NV: This wine has a salmon pink colour. The nose is not so expressive today, showing a little papery, stony, strawberry fruit. A nice substance on the palate though, broadening out from a lean start to grow more flesh in the midpalate. There is a touch of strawberry-and-cream richness towards the finish. A good style. 15.5/20

Trimbach Riesling 2005: A very pale wine, with a very classic, firm but reserved nose. It is not the most expressive wine though. A nice character on the palate, dry and structured, bright and lively. A good weight and texture through the midpalate. Unfussy, but a good style, and very typical of Trimbach. 16/20

Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2003: Released before the 2002 vintage as it is for drinking sooner, Jean Trimbach tells me. Sourced from Grand Cru Osterberg, with no acidification. A very exuberant nose, full, fruity, expressive and a little sherbetty. The palate has a soft but full character, showing some acidity through the midpalate although it is otherwise rather subtle. Slightly chalky notes. Jean says it reflects the vintage, and I would agree with him. It is flattering, but does not have the incisive style I would look for here. 15.5+/20

Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2001: The fruit here had 14º potential alcohol at harvest, and there is just 8 g/l residual sugar. It has a lovely nose, with plenty of ripe Gewurztraminer character, aromatic but not overly perfumed, with notes of lychees and rose petals. This is very appealing, structured, with good acidity for this variety. Showing good balance and style, and it has some grip on the finish, this is an impressive wine. 17+/20

Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Reserve Personelle 2005: I must confess that I have no information on how this wine sits within the Weinbach portfolio. Nevertheless, the wine has a really very attractive nose, showing lovely aromatics, but it is not blowsy or overly perfumed. Slightly minerally on the palate, very enticing notes of lychees, yet quite refined. A fine weight, gently composed, but with decent acidity too. There is even a little grip through the midpalate. This is very good, and offers fine potential. 16.5+/20

Domaine Weinbach Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2004: After the Cuvée Theo, this is the entry level for Riesling, the first such wine from Schlossberg. This seems slightly reductive on the nose today. The aromas are rather difficult to pin down. On the palate it has a nicely ripe texture and substance, and a firm acidic backbone. There is a good minerally character too. This is very appealing despite the rather reticent nose. Very good potential indeed here I think. 17+/20

Lacheteau Champteloup Brut Tête de Cuvée Crémant de Loire 2005: A chalky nose, a rather green character, not very expressive overall. A very clean style on the palate though, a nice creamy mousse, with some delicate flavours. Foamy but not overly so, youthful, and showing more interest in the midpalate. A middleweight. Unremarkable finish. 14.5/20

Lacheteau Brut Crémant de Loire NV: A nose of stones and minerals here, a trait which must be terroir-driven I think. Full on the palate, with a big, soft, mouth-filling mousse, and underneath this quite firm acidity through to the finish. Simply styled, but very clean indeed. 14/20

Alain Marcadet Sauvignon de Touraine 2007: A good nose, showing some impressively pungent and grassy fruit, but with a nice creamy edge. Ripe and rich character on the palate, well endowed with flavour, balanced although rich, with a good and firm finish. This is impressive stuff, riper and surely the work of a very careful vigneron. 16.5/20

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur Blanc L'Insolite 2006: A rather refined nose here, not expressing much interest though. A little minerality, and a lovely weight on the palate. It has nice definition but not a lot of character, but underneath there is lovely structure and fine potential. It seems a little awkwardly composed at the moment, but this holds promise. 16.5+?/20

De Ladoucette Pouilly-Fumé 2005: This has a firm, overt minerally character, showing a little classic gunflint note too. There is great freshness in the palate here, which is clean and broad. Good midpalate weight, lively acids, overall fine potential. This needs time though. 17.5+/20

Chateau de Tracy Pouilly-Fumé 2006: This has a delightfully creamy character, with aromas of buttermilk and cream soda alongside the green, herby, grassy Sauvignon character. A touch sweet, certainly intense and ripe, pure, weighty and rounded. Minerally, very primary and youthful. A touch reserved, austere even, despite the ripeness, but this wine oozes potential. 17.5+/20

Domaine Fouassier Sancerre 'Melodie de Gustave Fouassier' 2004: A very oak dominated nose here - not what I was expecting. Rich, very obvious barrel-ferment character, and the same is found on the palate. It has appealing acidity and freshness though, with a soft finish. The problem for me is that it is all swamped by the oak. This isn't what I look for in Sancerre at all. 12/20

Lucien Crochet Sancerre Le Chêne 2005: Very pale appearance, soft and gentle aromatics, and a ripe yellow fruit profile. Light and soft character on the palate, a nice acidity. Bright but gentle. To be critical, it is perhaps a little soft and unfocused, not really knit together. But there is a good bite behind it. This has potential. 16.5+/20

Comte Lafond Sancerre 2005: Made by De Ladoucette. A very appealing nose, grassy and clean, with a little richness too. Really this is a very nice style, a middleweight with punchy acidity and some midpalate richness. A good presence overall, and a firm, well defined finish. 17+/20

Domaine Villargeau Blanc (Coteaux du Giennois) 2007: 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A lovely, grassy style, quite bright and aromatic. Fresh, with a nice weight and composition, with lots of green bell pepper character, but with a good flesh to it as well. Appealing, with moderate acidity. This is a more flashy, softer vintage than the more structured 2006. 16/20

Domaine Villargeau Rosé (Coteaux du Giennois) 2007: Made solely from Pinot Noir, this wine shows some soft red fruits on the nose. The palate has a gentle style, leafy, not much concentration of flavour, but nevertheless it has balance and an appealingly delicate style. 13.5/20

Domaine Villargeau Blanc (Coteaux du Giennois) 2006: This is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and it certainly has a very classic Sauvignon nose, with lots of bright freshness and fruit showing through. A lively structure is evident on the palate, which has firm acidity and nice, creamy, yellow-fruit flavours with a peppery edge. 16+/20

Domaine Villargeau Rouge (Coteaux du Giennois) 2006: This is 100% Pinot Noir. It has a slightly foxy nose, with some suggestion of burnt fruit, and perhaps a note of reduction? Cherries on the nose. A soft, rounded, slightly oily palate, with a surprisingly creamy texture. Some good elements here, but it lacks concentration and flavour. Very short finish. 13/20

Domaine Villargeau Cuvée Chicago Rouge (Coteaux du Giennois) 2006: Apparently named for the boxes stamped 'Chicago' which were discovered rotting in the vineyard; these containers had allegedly been used for shipping American rootstocks after phylloxera. Rather gamey on the nose, stony with simple fruit. A rounded palate, soft, although with a little more definition than the straight cuvée. A touch more grip at the finish. Decent. 13.5/20

Talmard Macon-Uchizy 2006: A gentle, mealy, lightly honeyed character on the nose here. An appealing weight on the palate, showing lots of substance, it is mealy and grippy. The aromatics are perhaps a touch muted, and the acidity is rather swamped by the fat texture, but it is there. I think this should develop very nicely in the mid-term. 16+/20

Bruno Clair Marsannay Blanc 2005: This has a really lovely, interesting nose, with aromas of honey, meal and roast cashew nuts, and even a little toffee. There is a nicely styled backbone of acidity. It has an attractive, gentle integration, but it all does seem a little quiet through the midpalate. Lots of potential here though, and I think this is good for the appellation. 16+/20

Chateau Preuillac (Médoc) 2005: A very vibrant hue on inspection. This has lots of sweet fruit and a lively character, with some dense and concentrated fruit. Lots of freshness, sappy style and a good, grippy, tannic backbone behind. Good substance and presentation here. I like this very much, and it has good potential too. 16.5+/20

Chateau Belgrave (Haut-Médoc) 2004: Attractive blackcurrant fruits on the nose, sweet and slightly herby, although overall it is not hugely expressive. A nicely structured palate though, with dry and peppery tannins. There isn't a lot of concentration here, and the palate leads through to a firm tannic finish with lots of extract. There isn't a lot of flattering texture here. Rather straightforward. 15.5+/20

Chateau Le Boscq (St Estèphe) 2005: A lovely rich hue, with sweet primary fruit on the nose. A dense character, everything is well packed in, but composed, and with a good grip beneath. Ripe yet slightly hard tannins, also with good acidity, this has plenty of appeal. It isn't really that accessible now, though, and needs time to soften up, but it shows the quality of the vintage quite clearly. 16.5+/20

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 2001: CS 50%, M 45%, CF 5%. The colour here is showing early maturity, and there is a lovely mature bouquet, of meaty and rusty fruit. This is very typically Pauillac. It has a lovely style on the palate too, although soft and rounded. There is still some evident tannins although it is approachable now. Not the definition or vigour of a great wine, but plenty of pleasure to be found here. 16.5/20

Chateau Fonplegade (St Emilion) 2004: A very dark hue, not an unexpected appearance for this property. A very distinctive nose, dense and feral, fruit-rich nose, with notes of chocolate, toffee and nuts. A huge, soft, rounded palate, big, creamy and showy. Pretty good acids throughout though. An impressive style, but one that will turn many people off I think. I admire the savoury, tannin-rich finish though. 16-16.5+/20

Chateau Tournefeuille (Lalande-de-Pomerol) 2005: Vibrant and youthful hue. Not very dense, although it has an attractive, dark and spicy character. Full, but nicely poised, not very fleshy or rich despite the vintage. Nice spicy tannins though. Has some potential. 15.5+/20

François Villard Condrieu Le Grand Vallon 2006: Some barrel ferment character here, and not a lot of fruit coming through on the nose. More vanilla than Viognier. The palate is fleshy, rounded, rich and creamy, and there is some acidity beneath it. Nevertheless it doesn't have the perfume or concentration that I would really like to find coming from this variety or appellation. Perhaps some time in bottle will allow this to achieve a more appealing harmony. 15+?/20

Chateau d'Aqueria Tavel Rosé 2007: A vibrant, deep pink hue, and a nose of sweet red fruits, cherries with a leafy edge. A nicely structured grip on the palate, which possesses quite a firm acidity underneath the sweet-savoury fruit. A good, full-bodied, forceful style. 15/20

Clos de l'Oratoire Châteauneuf du Pape 2006: An attractive nose, herby, slightly stony, well defined. Some appeal on the palate, sweetly fruited but nicely poised with good grip. Lots of character here, a well polished style. A somewhat more ripe and chewy character on the finish, where the tannins are a touch more prominent, but still very good potential here. 16.5+/20

Chat-en-Oeuf Blanc (VdP d'Oc) 2007: Under screwcap. Unoaked Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. A fresh and aromatic nose, gentle grassy and clean. A nicely reserved palate, with a charming composition, and balanced acidity behind it. A nice peppery edge. Not huge in terms of concentration, but certainly good. 15/20

Chat-en-Oeuf Rosé (VdP d'Oc) 2007: Under screwcap. Unoaked Cinsaut 50%, Grenache 30%, Syrah 20%. An appealing, fairly pale hue, and a nose of leafy raspberries and redcurrants. Cool, nicely defined, moderate acidity, although there is a rather soft midpalate and finish. Cleanly styled though. 14.5+/20

Chat-en-Oeuf Rouge (VdP d'Oc) 2006: Under screwcap. Grenache 70%, Syrah 30%. Oak for 12 months. A very typical set of Grenache aromas, herby and cherry fruit, with a simple sweetness. This holds some promise on the nose. Attractive, fresh fruit, a little denser than on the nose, soft but with decent acidity. Good. 15.5/20

Clos Triguedina Grand Classique Cahors 2004: A warm, sweet, ripe and spicy nose. The palate follows this lead, showing a firm core of tannins which give a forceful structure to the wine surrounded by gentle and ripe fruit, with some nicely balanced acidity. The grippy structure will take some time to integrate I think; this needs ten years at least. 16+/20

Domaine de l'Hortus Le Loup Dans la Bergerie Rouge (VdP du Val de Montferrand) 2006: An attractive nose, dominated by the sweet cherry fruit of the Grenache. A very softly composed palate, with a gentle and rounded presence, with fresh acidity. There is a soft plumminess, perhaps from the Merlot which makes up the blend here. This is attractive and certainly easy to drink. 15.5/20

Réserve de Gassac Blanc (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2007: This is mostly Viognier and Marsanne sourced from an estate distinct from Mas de Daumas. It is made from 25 year-old vines and fermented in stainless steel. A very pale wine, it has a feminine, rather herby, softly aromatic nose. Soft and ripe on the palate, with a reserved, chalky, slightly fleshy character, with a good minerally acid backbone. It doesn't display much concentration or flavour at the moment though. 14.5+/20

Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2007: This has only been in the bottle for one month at the time of tasting, and it is giving away absolutely nothing on the nose at present. It has a good structure on the palate though, certainly superior to the Reserve de Daumas. It has a more rounded, composed composition and defined acidity. Full, weighty, impressive in terms of substance, but completely closed down today. Difficult to judge with that in mind. 16.5-17.5+?/20

Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2006: A very youthful hue, a red-purple colour, with lots of dense fruit on the nose. Midweight on the palate, nicely balanced, with quite firm acidity. Not a lot of flesh at present, but I suspect this will fatten up with some time in barrel. There is certainly good raw material here in the shape of rich, primary fruit. Potentially very good. 16.5-17+?/20

Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1995: A mature hue here, warm and ripe and spicy aromas on the nose, and a slightly high toned character. Quite winey and serious, and certainly appealing. A gentle character on the palate, soft and integrated structure, just a touch of hot hardness towards the end. Good finish overall though. Not much length. Still some potential here I think. 15.5/20

Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Laurence 1998: It has been a few years since I first tasted the 1997 vintage, so it is a delight to be able to sample the 1998. This is 50% Sercial and 50% Muscat à Petits Grains. On inspection the wine has a vibrant orange hue, with hints of pink, with a dense core which fades considerably out towards the rim. A characterful nose, redolent of baked earth, nuts and dried fruits. It is rather reminiscent of Madeira although I think they aim more for a Tokay style. A fine and creamy texture on the palate, a lovely weight, rather svelte in character, with a good body and sweetness. Very good indeed. 17+/20

Clos d'Yvigne Saussignac 2003: A blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. A good nose of botrytis, very richly styled fruit, quince, all rolled up in a fat and corpulent fashion. There is firm acidity underneath the weighty texture on the palate. Nevertheless it still feels very top-heavy, although it may just need some time to integrate. This is good if you like a big, intense rather than fresh and subtle style. 15+/20