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Female Winemakers
I have mixed feelings about publishing the notes from this tasting. On the one hand, I'm keen to publish it as here we tasted a great selection of wines, representing predominantly France, California and Australia. The common factor was that all (with one exception) had been crafted by a female winemaker; these included Danya Cullen, daughter of Di Cullen, in Western Australia or the increasingly successful Claire Villars, daughter of Bernadette Villars, in Bordeaux. Winemakers of consummate skill and experience, both from vinous dynasties, with the curriculum vitae to match.
Conversely, however, I feel a little embarrassed that the wines of female winemakers should be singled out for special attention. Does winemaking really lag so far behind medicine (where in the UK at least the majority of entrants to undergraduate courses are female), or any other profession for that matter? To some extent, yes. Where domaines are run as a family business - Jaboulet, for instance - women are involved almost always involved, but it is just as likely to be as head of PR as actually making the wine. Move away from the classic wine producing regions, however, and one can find many domaines run by women, or where they run the cellar; Marlene Soria at Domaine Peyre Rose and Sophie Vidal at Chateau la Liquiere, both fine Languedoc estates, are two examples that spring to mind. But sniff around the classic regions of Bordeaux, Napa, Sonoma, McLaren Vale and the like and they are less numerous than you might imagine. Where they do exist, however, they are making some stunning wines, as I think was evidenced by this tasting. They deserve an appropriate share of the limelight.
The wines discussed below were all tasted blind. The only one not included here was the 1994 Gigondas Cuvée Futée from Véronique Cunty-Peyesson, which was corked. (12/1/05)
Female Winemakers - Tasting Notes
Tasted in January 2005. Click
to locate stockists.
Corison Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley, California) 1994: Cathy
Corison. Glossy dark red hue, still looking a little youthful. Sweet, meaty,
smoky oak. Lovely, with notes of curry spices and currants. Full, sweet,
textured, luscious, creamy feel on the palate. Then a firm structure beneath,
with tannin showing on the finish. Balanced. Great length. Lovely. 17/20
Gallo Cabernet Sauvignon (Northern Sonoma, California) 1994: Gina
Gallo. Maturity showing here. Meaty, dark, brooding nose, with a great depth
of fruit with some iodine and pickling spices too. A big palate, with plenty of
fruit and some firm tannins. Meaty, but with an elegant poise, and a great
length. This is a beautifully composed wine. 17.5/20
Cullen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (Margaret River, WA) 1997:
Vanya Cullen. Again showing a little maturity. The nose gives pure black
fruits, with a meaty character and just a trace of oak, although it opens out in
the glass to develop a burnt, cinder toffee and treacle richness. Big, sweet,
massive, concentrated wine, with a creamy and luscious texture. And yet it has
elegance too, with a fine balance. Good structure, with brooding, inky fruit and
complex spicy notes. Superb. Drink over the next ten years. 18+/20
Chapel Hill 'The
Vicar' (McLaren Vale/Coonawarra, South Australia) 1994: Pam
Dunsford. Cabernet Sauvignon 56%, Shiraz 44%. Mostly American hogsheads
(75%), the rest French. Dark and glossy, showing some maturity. It's plummy,
sweet, smoky and laden with cassis. Plenty of jammy, dark blackcurrant and
forest fruits as well, with coconut oak-derived notes. Toffee and coconutty oak
dominates the palate's medium body, with some sweet fruit and eucalyptus. I hope
the oak will integrate with time, although it has already had about ten years.
For now I find it overwhelming. 14+/20
Terre di Corzano Chianti 1998: Wendelin Gelpke. A glossy, deep,
cherry red with a pink-orange maturity at the rim. Metallic, mousy nose - some
Brett perhaps. Then more mature, meaty notes. Medium bodied, quite furry-mousy,
with vegetal fruit and a little astringent tannin. Good acid. In the glass it
begins to show a disjointed nature though. Drink up. 13.5/20
Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 1998: Claire Villars. From a half
bottle. Glossy. Very early maturity at the rim. Toffee and smoke, with some
berry fruit. Full, balanced, weighty, tannic. Youthful and firm, classic left
bank '98. Good fruit, Creamy tannins, lovely potential although surprisingly
approachable now from this format. 16+/20
Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2000: Claire Villars. From a half
bottle. A powerful, youthful colour which characterises this vintage at the
moment. Toffee, coffee and butterscotch, all oak-derived. Full, concentrated,
creamy, seamless feel, with structure beneath. Fabulous quality here. Amazingly
drinkable now from this format, but will benefit from 15 years in the cellar. 17+/20
Chateau Troplong-Mondot (St Emilion) 1995: Christine Valette. A
deep, glossy hue. Full, ripe, smoky berry fruit. Ripe, creamy, sweet palate.
Lovely fruit, but still showing some awkward youth, with the wood still quite
evident and rather obvious alcohol. It has good potential though. Drink three to
four years from now. 15.5+/20
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1988: May-Elaine de Lencquesaing.
It's stretching a point to list Mme Lencquesaing as winemaker, but do we really
need an excuse to drink Pichon? Obviously much more mature than the other wines
here. Mature aromas, meaty, inky, slightly vegetal. Seductive. Medium bodied,
more vegetal-meaty fruit. Fully integrated, ready now, and very fine balance
with it. Gorgeous. 17/20
