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Edinburgh Tasting at La Concha

I struck out for the bus-stop at 6:40pm, eager for my first real taste of Edinburgh public transport; well, first apart from that trip on the 33 after my interview last December. I arrived at the stop after just a few minutes walk, and promptly let the unusually numbered X117 (or something like that) go through. I waited dutifully for the 44, which arrived at the stop dead on time. I am not used to this. In Liverpool, the first number 79 of the day was timetabled for 5:35am at my nearest stop, but usually passed through much closer to 7am. Things were looking up. Once deposited in Princes Street, I made my way to the residence of Toby Bailey, one-half of the editorial team at the respected website www.finewinediary.com. I was warmly greeted and quickly tucked into two Champagnes, served blind.

Then onto La Concha. With a grand selection of attendees, and a similar collection of bottles, it was a very enjoyable evening. At just £3 per bottle corkage, and quite decent food, this is at excellent place to meet. I started with some grilled asparagus with cheese. Slightly crunchy asparagus, somewhat over-grilled cheese. Would be more to my taste with a little cream and the asparagus rolled in ham, or at least that's how I would have presented it. Then a small pasta course, which for me was penne with a tomato and olive sauce. Good, although I was a little jealous of the carbonara some people had; I missed that on the menu. But it was tasty, and this is one restaurant that at least knows how to cook pasta. After this, a breast of chicken, stuffed with ham and cheese. Rather disappointing cheese - especially when there are so many great Italian cheeses that could have served this bird much better. But this wasn't bad otherwise; there was a good texture to the chicken, and decent ham. The chef came out. "Where did you get these wines, Oddbins?", he asked. "Ah, Marques de Riscal, I have one of these at home. This is the (chef's eyes pop out, retrieved from floor by diner) 1958. Oh."

The last few wines of the evening - in particular the 1993 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz and the 1996 Ridge Geyserville - were quite rushed, and thus my notes were peremptory, to say the least. For that reason, I haven't included them. To judge wines in this fashion is certainly unfair, I would never award a score in this situation, and in fact I haven't included any opinion on these two here. (17/5/05)

Tasting Notes

Tasted in April 2005. Click to locate stockists.

Champagne

Jacques Selosse Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV: Just a brief note. Coffee nose indicative of maturing Chardonnay. Good palate, elegant, some finesse. A very dry style - I should have suspected it was an Extra Brut. Very good. 16.5/20

Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Vieille Vignes NV: A producer I have ear-marked for my forthcoming Champagne feature. A little cheesy on the nose, denoting Pinot here. Apples too, as pointed out by Toby. Good, altogether palate.16.5/20

Loire

Domaine Huet Vouvray Vodanis Sec 2001: The label actually says 'Domaine de Vodanis' without any mention of Huet, but the design is unmistakeable. It is a vineyard they rented for two years, and I previously tasted this wine at the domaine in 2003. As noted then, this is actually a sec tendre wine (4-15 g/l residual sugar), so it carries a little more around the middle than many a sec. Not much on the nose - as with last time. A little mineral. But the palate has evolved. Slightly creamy. Full, almost sensual texture on midpalate. Mineral-apple element. Very good. 15.5/20

Burgundy

Cordier Pouilly-Fuissé 2002: I see Cordier and I think Bordeaux, but this bottle turns out to be a very tasty white Burgundy. Good nose. Open, obvious, honeyed, with some oak showing. Full palate, showing a honeyed-oak wrapper to the white fruit. This is a very good, approachable style, and my favourite of the three whites I think. 16.5/20

Rioja

Bodegas Palacio Rioja Reserva Especial 1947: Bottled 1952. Aged hue. Volatile. Furniture polish. Good weight on the palate though, maintained through to the finish, although becoming a little disjointed at the finish. A sharp, volatile note too. Will soon fall apart altogether. Drink up if you have any (oh come on, how likely is that?). The first few tastes are interesting, but subsequently it becomes tiring. Difficult to score such an old wine in this condition. It deserves credit, though. No score.

Bodegas Marques de Riscal Elciego 1958: A mere youngster here. Smoky, fatty, iodine nose. Full palate, good weight, showing decent texture for its age, and correct acidity. Still holding together very well. Meaty, roasted nuts component. Elegant, oily. Very typical aged Rioja. I could drink more of this than the Palacio. 16.5/20

Provence

Domaine Richeaume Côtes de Provence Syrah 1998: Good colour. Smoky nose. Plump fruit. Less floral/stony/ elegant than another recent tasting, but I think those aromas take time to open out. More meaty and a little rubbery. Full. There is elegance on the palate. Great depth of grippy, meaty fruit, but with a stony, firm streak. Very good. 17+/20

Pradeaux Bandol 1995: I think some rank this Bandol property very highly indeed. This wine has such a deep glossy hue - Mourvèdre is very resistant to oxidation and so holds its colour well. Meaty, leather aromas. Full, ever so slightly volatile, meaty, yet elegant, with upright acidity. This is maturing well in my opinion. Lovely wine. 16.5/20

South Africa

Lourens River Valley (Stellenbosch) 2000: A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Just a brief note; too much conversation! Meaty Cabernet fruit. Decent palate. Minerally fruit. Good weight and texture. Seems short on aromatics or flavour...or perhaps I'm not really paying proper attention. 15?/20

Australia

Mesh Riesling (Eden Valley, SA) 2003: Steely, fruity lime nose. Full bodied palate. Steely, grippy, blast of lime. Touch of spice. This is very nice. 16/20

Clarendon Hills Kangarilla Vineyard Old Vine Grenache (Clarendon Hills, South Australia) 1996: Very pure colour, very deep. Meaty, developed. Full, textured, rich, creamy, upfront, powerhouse Grenache style. A little hot and baked. Stony, grippy finish. This is very good, and much more impressive than the 1999 which was the last vintage I tasted (and I do wonder whether that bottle was 100%). 16.5/20