Arlaux Brut Premier Cru NV: Based principally on the 2002 vintage; this is not declared on the label, although Arlaux have plans to introduce this. This has a rather steely nose, and a rather firmly structured palate with a little nut-tinged fruit. There is more creaminess to the style at the midpalate. Underneath it all, piles of acidity. I suspect this cuvée will cellar well. 16+/20

Arlaux Brut Réserve NV: As above, this wine is based on the 2000 vintage. Nicely elegant fruit on the nose. The palate possesses a good presence of rounded, balanced fruit which has a lovely integration with elegant structure and balance. There is a firm framework of bright acidity and a firm mousse. Very good indeed. 16+/20

Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV: A bright style on the nose, with a chalky character. The palate, however, is quite gentle, rounded and creamy. Soft and full-flavoured with notes of baked white fruits over a fine grip which shows at the end, together with good acidity here too. Touch of creaminess to the mousse. Very good. 16+/20

Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV: Like the straight non-vintage, this too is showing a lot of sulphur. It was also served very cold. The palate, though, is quite well composed. It does not have a huge depth at present, although it is very firm and fresh, showing some attractive white fruit character. Nice peppery acidity. Difficult to judge, but it has promise. 16?/20

Bollinger Special Cuvée NV: An appealing nose, woody-oily character, finely polished with notes of dried fruits. Full but with a bright mousse on the palate, and a fine acidic backbone. This is very nicely composed, with a firm, structured finish. Typically Bollinger, yet perhaps a touch more accessible than I would usually expect. Very good. 16.5+/20

Alexandre Bonnet Grande Réserve Brut NV: This has a slightly honeyed character on the nose, mineral-laced white fruits, with a dried-crystalline character. The palate is full, with a creamy mousse. It has balance and a good backbone. It needs a little time to settle, but otherwise is good. 15.5/20

Brice Tradition Brut NV: A very lightly style wine here, rather chalky, with a mineral, lemon and sherbet character to the nose. Lean in flavour, but with a nicely rounded texture, slightly fat in fact. Decent acidity underneath though, and quite a chalky style throughout. Nice mousse. No finesse here though. 13.5/20

Canard-Duchêne Brut NV: Sherbet lemons on the nose, a little note of weediness too. And on the palate, a very firm structure, forceful acidity and a sharp mousse. Some softness in the midpalate though, and a gentle, minerally finish. It is very firm and upright; a little more depth and character would be appreciated. 13.5/20

Cattier Premier Cru Brut NV: Iodine and seaweed on the nose here, with notes of burnt and bitter almonds. A very nicely composed palate despite this unusual array of aromas, notes of lemons, minerals and sherbet. A fine, firmly prickling mousse, with lemon sherbet flavour and a confected, fruit pastille finish. There is less character here than on the nose, and that might not be a bad thing. 12.5/20

André Clouet Grand Cru Grande Réserve NV: A gentle aroma of green apple skins here, otherwise not an awful lot going on on the nose. It is softly mineral, light and elegant on the palate, a touch chalky and a little perfumed. It has a nice structure and a charming, slightly rocky finish. Rather understated and I suspect it will show better with time. 14+/20

Comte Audoin de Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Premier Cru NV: There is some creamy white fruit here, with a little honeyed cashew nut. A lovely palate, very finely composed, gentle and nicely integrated. Flavours of yellow and white fruits, and a softly rounded midpalate. Just a touch sherbetty on the finish. Some potential here. 16+/20

Deutz Brut Classic NV: This has an elegant nose, with a rather refined and stony feel. It is very much the same on the palate, with a staunch and upright character and a firm acidity. It has the feel of lemons rubbed on granite. And there is an appealingly firm mousse too. There is plenty of appeal here, with plenty of acid backbone. I think this will develop very nicely over a couple of years. 16.5+/20

Dumangin Brut Grande Réserve NV: A softly scented nose, with a little rose petal and first, then brighter lemon aromas. Rather plump at the start, then softening further and broadening out in the midpalate, where the acidity suddenly pops out. A honey-lemon character which is pleasant. An approachable style. 14.5/20

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Premier Cru NV: Quite an attractive nose here, with polished, dried fruits to the fore. A good composition on the palate, with a little sweetness to the fruit, and a little sherbet too. All in all it is a nicely rounded package with a little honey and nut at the edges. Attractive potential. 15.5+/20

Pierre Gimonnet Cuis Premier Cru Brut Blanc des Blancs NV: An unusual character on the nose here, rather high toned fruit, highly polished, in fact a little volatile and acetic. The palate is lovely though, having a full, balanced and rounded character, a nice fleshy feel, and a good acid backbone. The fruit does resemble that on the nose but less overtly volatile. There is potential here, but an element of doubt based on those acetic notes. 16+?/20

Gosset Brut Excellence NV: Rather steely character, lemon and herb aromas, rather tight and firm. The palate is attractively clean and well defined, with bright lemon citrus fruit packed in by good acidity. It is very tightly composed and has some fine potential I think. 16+/20

Alfred Gratien Brut Classique NV: Quite a lot of sulphur on the nose here and it is difficult for me to perceive any other aromas. The palate shows some fine, sweet fruit with a rich and minerally character. There is a gentle, albeit slightly foamy mousse although this settles through the midpalate. Broad, fleshy, with good substance, I suspect there is real potential here. There is a lot of sulphur showing on the nose at this moment in time, but not on the palate. 16+/20

Charles Heidsieck Mis en Cave 2004 Brut Réserve NV: Not so prominently labelled as mis en caves compared with previous releases, which is a shame. There is some nicely polished fruit here, but otherwise it does not have a very expressive nose compared with some of the other wines. It is warm, ripe, rather nutty, and not quite as focussed as I would have expected. Nevertheless there is some good acidity and the start of a better definition I think. Overall well composed but needs a little time. 16.5+/20

Henriot Brut Souverain NV: There is plenty of sulphur on the nose here, and I find it difficult to get past. The palate though is really very approachable, with firm acids and a well framed composition. Gently polished fruit, with a subtle almond character. Appealing, and very good potential, once that sulphur fades. 16+/20

Jacquesson Cuvée 731 NV: This is fabulously appealing compared to some of the other wines; on the nose there is a little toffee character from recent malolactic I think, but underneath this a mineral seam at the core which holds real promise. A gently honeyed texture, lots of sweet toffee, gentle acids and overall a rich style, cut through by a lemony finish. This will be impressive with time I think. Very good potential. 17+/20

Jacquesson Cuvée 732 NV: Soft apple fruit on the nose here, a touch of marshmallow sweetness and rather overt banana aromas. On the palate a very strong banana toffee flavour and a rather rounded, confected feel to it. A good structure, but overall this has a rather awkward style at present. It will need to integrate and develop, for now would approach with much caution! 16-17+/20

Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut NV: Very little on the nose here; this wine seems very closed down right now. The palate is full, soft and creamy, with good acids underneath, and a gentle although rather prickly mousse. It really is showing nothing at this moment in time. A soft, unremarkable finish. Difficult to judge in this state. 14-15+?/20

Krug Grande Cuvée NV: A huge, honeyed, oiled oak nose here, with complexity underneath, notes of sherbet, seaweed and iodine. There is lovely character on the palate, which is very rich, broad, meaty and expressive. A firm and youthful style which has a huge texture and even some grip. Fine potential here. 17-17.5+/20

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Iodine and seaweed on the nose again, a very firm and youthful style. The palate has bright acidity but it is more flashy in the midpalate, where it shows more rounded creaminess and a soft mousse. Lots of promise here. It has the firm acidity of Lanson, but also a touch more softness than I would normally expect. Does this reflect new ownership, or the base vintage? 16+/20

Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut NV: The nose here has a butter-toffee character, suggestive of recent malolactic I think, but also a rather volatile, acetic edge. It certainly seems very awkward at present although this perhaps reflects recent manipulations. Despite this character on the nose it has a fine presence on the palate, with a rounded and creamy mousse and an elegant composition. The aromas on the nose do come through onto the palate a little, but it has good substance and all the elements seem cleanly integrated. Very good potential once that nose settles down. 16.5+/20

Larmandier-Bernier Né d'une Terre de Vertus Premier Cru Non-Dosé NV: This wine has an interesting nose, light and lifted, minerally and weedy, with a lightly applied layer of delicate caramel. It has an appealing style on the palate, elegant, lifted, lovely and bright. A good character, stylish but in a light manner. It has potential to come together nicely, although I prefer the substance of the preceding wine. 16+/20

Laurent-Perrier Brut NV: Minerals and stones on the nose here, laced with green herbs. It has a firm and slightly sherbetty palate, with a full mousse, and a very nice vein of acidity. It has a rather straightforward character and a somewhat hard finish. No complexity although it may develop with time. 14.5+?/20

Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV: Lots of toffee character on the nose, recent malolactic perhaps, and a rich aroma of baked nuts. It has a fine character on the palate, starting off in a gentle fashion, then broadening out to show a very good depth, and flavours of spiced nuts and baked lemons. This substance carries through onto a persistently nutty finish. Clean, finely structured, this has good potential. 16.5+/20

Pierre Moncuit Cuvée Delos NV: Clean and lemony fruit on the nose here, which precedes a svelte texture on the palate, nicely polished, with a good grip underneath. Full, firm, slightly sherbetty acid kick thereafter. This all rounds off in a nice, lemony finish. This has certain potential. 16-16.5+/20

Mumm Cordon Rouge NV: The nose here is completely swamped by sulphur, so it is impossible for me to comment on the aromatic profile. And there follows a huge, foamy palate, which gives a nice creaminess to it although nothing can counter that heavy treatment of sulphur which comes through on the palate also, from start to finish. In this state it is not feasible for me to make any judgement on the quality of the wine. Nevertheless I don't have much optimism for it. No score.

Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particulière Brut NV: An unusual, rather medicinal character on the nose here, a sort of baked-oiled fruit aroma, but there are attractive notes of white pepper and dried, crystalline fruit after this initial onslaught. An appealingly direct style on the palate, steely, perhaps a little hollow, but with some honeyed-oiled oak character. Bright acidity, but needs to flesh out in terms of substance and character. Could be good though. 15+/20

Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée NV: Nicely harmonious on the nose, with a light toffee note. A little hint of richness but despite this an attractive and direct style on the palate, where the creamy toffee nuances are cut through by firm acids. This is stylish and abruptly youthful, with its foaming mousse, but it has a lot of character. Lots of potential here. 16.5+/20

Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV: Underneath the sulphur there are some sweet white fruits with an apply brightness. This lively show continues on the palate where there is a well defined core of golden fruits, with a fine acidity around it. A good creamy mousse. There is elegance and substance here. My only concern is that sulphur is also detectable on the palate, but I suspect it will dissipate. Very good potential. 16.5+/20

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV: A sherbetty trace here, but it is slight, and overall this has an appealing nose of firm, lemony, herby fruit. Soft and gently composed on the palate, although it firms up in the middle, and shows a nice richness, a blend of oiled nuts and honey here. It has an attractive style and a very firm finish. This has good potential. 15.5+/20

Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV: A sulphurous nose, although it does not obscure the rich white and golden fruits that also reside here, and the traces of honey and nut beneath. A fine style on the palate, there is structure and definition and a fine composition. An elegant style, this is impressive stuff, nicely balancing a slight fruit sweetness and good acidity. 17+/20

Pommery Brut Royal NV: A nose characterised by iodine and aromas of green herbs, it is at least distinctive. A full style follows on the palate, which has a rather soft and creamy-foamy character. Although it has a honeyed edge, there is also a darkness to it that I don't find terribly appealing. Nevertheless there are some good points here. 14.5+/20

René Geoffroy Expression Premier Cru à Cumières NV: A pretty and rather floral nose here at first, then showing a sweeter and more meaty nose suggestive of a significant slug of Pinot Meunier in the blend. Fresh style on the palate, green and yet floral, with a gentle mousse. A chalky minerality. This certainly has interest but also a lot of sweaty Meunier character. 14/20

René Geoffroy Empreinte Premier Cru à Cumières NV: This is not very expressive, although what it does show puts it into the green, herbal, steely end of the spectrum. An appealing palate though, bright with lots of good acidity, and a firm steely character like that seen on the nose. Chalky, fresh and leafy. Good. 15+/20

Roederer Brut Premier NV: Little showing on the nose here, other than some sulphur. But the palate has plenty to offer, as it has a rather seductive style, with a persistent and gently foaming mousse over a creamy midpalate. Flavours of white fruits. This is elegant, well composed and persistent. Very good potential. 16-16.5+/20

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV: Aromas of dried white fruits here. This has a very firm structure on the palate though, slightly creamy, gentle blanc de blancs style but there is lots of substance underneath. Warm and rounded on the finish. Appealing. Good potential. 16-15.5+/20

Taittinger Brut Réserve NV: Slightly honeyed, dried white fruits here. Rather soft but nicely composed, gentle mousse and an almost creamy richness. White fruit and minerals, also a little sulphur coming through from the nose onto the palate. I suspect this will be quite seductive with some time in bottle and fans should know that this cuvée is very typical for the Taittinger style. 16+/20

Tarlant Brut Réserve NV: White, pure, rather chalky nose. A very well defined palate too, pure and crisp, with a good acid structure. Lean and rather hard style, steely and firm. I rather like this; I think it has some hidden depths, and I suspect that it will cellar well. 14.5+/20

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: Sulphur on the nose here, which has a rather hard character. It has an attractive style on the palate, despite all the criticism that VC has come in for recently there are clearly some good points here. Nevertheless through the midpalate it is softer, plump even, with a touch of toffee. Rather creamy, rather feminine, if anything rather unfocussed and a little too perfumed. There are better Champagnes on the market I feel. 14/20