Chateau Beau-Site 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 70%, Merlot 24%, Cabernet Franc 3%, Petit Verdot 3%. Yield 45 hl/ha. A dark cherry red here, and the aromas have a chalky, seashell, red fruit character. Bold on the palate, alcohol-infused tannins, and a rather grippy substance. Good plump fruit, a big chewy style, with a big roll-out of tannins in the finish. A little bold for my liking, perhaps surprising considering the percentage of Cabernet here. 14-15/20

Chateau Calon-Ségur 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 90% (extremely high - contrast with 2005 when this variety accounted for 60%), 7% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Alcohol 13.5%. Nice appearance in the glass, lightly creamy and vibrant. Lovely crisply defined but sweet and ripe fruits on the nose, blackcurrant and cherry. Lots of good substance on the palate, quite fleshy and broad and full of fruit, but underneath a gritty and ripe and gradually mouth-coating and appealing layer of tannins. Nicely defined, a good frame to the fruit here, the components each gently joining the fray to give a sense of a rich and balanced wine. This is all very harmonious, despite its youth. Vigorous, perhaps a touch reserved in terms of character which I like. What impresses most is the tannic finesse, I keep coming back to this aspect of the wine. Gently fading length. Delicious wine with great potential. 17.5-18.5+/20

Chateau Cos d'Estournel 2009: Accounting for 56% of the Cos harvest, this is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. IPT 99 (i.e. high). Naturally deeper, richer, creamier look to it than with Les Pagodes. Bright and crunchy-edged fruit, very tightly compacted, with rather a stony-steely feel. Pure, very well defined, with crunchy tar-like elements to it. Powerful attack on the palate, the alcohol is immediately apparent here, determining the texture of the wine to a large extent. Alongside there are reticent forest fruits and acids which take a backseat. Hard composition, tannins becoming very dominant. This is not a wine that will appeal to all. As it shows at present it certainly doesn't appeal to me. 16-17+?/20

Les Pagodes de Cos 2009: The second wine of Cos d'Estournel accounts for 44% of the harvest and is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. IPT 77. Very creamy and vibrant appearance in the glass. A dark and sweet, forest fruits and plum character, with a fresh and crisp edge to it. Dark, clean, concentrated. Very firm character, very reserved, lots of powerful tannin coming to the fore very quickly. There is a seam of firm alcohol running through the core of it as well and this does influence the mouthfeel somewhat. Rather sweet feel from this element of the palate, although the fruit itself is rather stolid in comparison. The acidity takes a back seat to all the other elements here. Most obvious though is the wall of hard, mouth-puckering tannin which dominates the midpalate and finish. This is going to need a lot of time. 15-16+/20

Chateau Cos Labory 2009: This wine has a fading rim around a crimson-black core. Lots of sweet, grainy fruit on the nose, a wine showing its alcohol quite plainly here. The palate has some supple if rather volatile fruit, a rather soft style, a touch juicy, but with the alcoholic heat again. Grippy, grippy tannins which dominate the finish. This is overdone for my palate. 13-14/20

Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2009: This wine has a vibrant appearance, with a bluish rim. The nose shows a grainy layer of alcohol above the fruit. And the palate follows in the same vein, showing lots of heat and alcohol here too. Underneath it all there is some supple fruit, but the wine has a huge extraction, the squishy fruit slowly disappearing beneath a massive sea of tannins. The soft acidity doesn't help. Not a great showing, but that's not unusual in the commune in this vintage. 14-15/20

Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 2009: This wine has a vibrant hue, and a nose of dark cherry and damson fruit, with a sweet and rather roasted character. Rather bold on the palate, with a nice firm substance. There is a ripe core of tannins, vigorous acids. This is very well composed and a real success on the commune. Bravo for this consistent over-performer! 16-17+/20

Chateau de Pez 2009: This wine has firm and dark fruits on the nose, and a rather solid character. There is a good substance on the palate, and a fair concentration of fruit. Rather a bold substance as suggested by the nose, a good effort, it just tastes a little forced, stretched out even, and is lacking in impact as a result. 14.5-15.5/20

Chateau Phélan-Ségur 2009: A very dark hue, with a nose of macerated black cherry. The palate possesses a rather dry shell of fruit, supple and fairly reserved, and the tannins here seem quite well composed. There is nice acidity, and a touch of vigour to it. Only moderate concentration here, but as a whole it is sensibly done, and therefore admirable. Very good effort from another over-performing estate. 16-17+/20

Chateau d'Armailhac 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 24%, Cabernet Franc 14%, Petit Verdot 2%. Good colour although not the most concentrated. Really exuberant black cherry fruit on the nose, quite broad and firm in style rather than sweet or soft, although it is certainly ripe. Very well judged density on the kick-off, with a bolder midpalate, very deeply polished tannins, providing a delicious, savoury frame for the fruit which has a deeply flavoursome character with a juicy edge. Rather supple, with good acidity cutting through the middle, although it is balanced by all the fruit and substance. Lovely. 17.5-18.5+/20

Chateau Batailley 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 74%, Merlot 22%, Cabernet Franc 2%, Petit Verdot 2%. Picked at 41 hl/ha. A glossy appearance, rich but bright fruit character on the nose, with a cherry and damson fruit profile. Nicely composed on the palate, very integrated and held together well. Rather a juicy style of fruit here, with soft acidity and rather firm alcohol. The fruit tends to fade away in the mouth. A little straightforward, but it should develop more interest with time. 14.5-15.5+/20

Chateau Clerc-Milon 2009: Chateau Clerc-Milon 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 50%, Merlot 41%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 1%, Carmenère 1%. Like d'Armailhac also a good hue, cherry red with a bluish rim. The nose here has a very bright and crunchy and lifted style of fruit, cherry aromas with a floral tinge. The palate is again very nicely composed, very firm in terms of structure, with a very upright backbone of tannin. Deep. lightly creamed fruit, although it has a fresh style, just a touch of juice to it. Towards the end it has more grit, a tinge of charcoal too. Overall harmonious, although with firm tannins coming through which will demand time. Lovely savoury finish. Well balanced. 17.5-18.5+/20

Chateau Croizet-Bages 2009: This wine has a very dark and concentrated hue. The fruit on the nose is rather reticent, although with some sweetly ripe berries. A fresh character with slightly crunchy fruit on the palate, placed around a nice tannic core. The fruit has a soft style, and the tannins build through the palate to coat the mouth. A slightly bold substance, only moderate acidity, overall a good effort for Croizet-Bages, although not a contender within the context of commune and vintage. 15.5-16.5/20

Chateau Duhart-Milon 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 63%, Merlot 37%. The colour here is dark with good concentration, and the nose has a tightly defined fruit character, reticent rather than open, with a light sprinkle of chalk over some floral, black fruits. The palate has a very polished style, with a shell of fruit sitting around a core of very firm tannins which, although a strong component of the blend, do not over-ride the other elements. The texture is actually quite appealing, although it does have a stony-reserved style. Lovely supple fruit beneath though. Bold rather than exciting, but very good. 17-18+/20

Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2009: This wine has a vibrant, cherry-red hue with a bluish rim. On the nose I find some dark but crunchy-crystalline fruit, with notes of tar alongside. The palate shows rather overt alcohol over a layer of soft fruit. There is a lot of tingly grip here, lots of firm tannin too, with a very domineering character. Soft acidity. I find this lacks the finesse demanded by my palate, and is over-extracted. 14.5-15.5+/20

Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Merlot 18%, Cabernet Franc 2%. 70% new oak. Yield 44 hl/ha. Vibrant hue, cherry red core, and a bright pink-red rim. Dark and characterful fruit on the nose, full of Pauillac spice, with a crystalline tinge to the plum and cherry fruit. Beautiful texture on entry, it has the vibrant fruit of a cooler vintage than this, with a supple and elegant texture. Very well integrated and cottony-silky tannins, gently coating the mouth, together with lots of fresh acidity. Lovely fruit, but with fine structure for the future. Substantial finish with a good length. One for the classicists (including me). 17.5-18.5+/20

Lacoste-Borie 2009: This, the second wine of Grand-Puy-Lacoste, is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. An attractive nose, quite meaty and with savoury fruit character. There's a touch of game about it too. The palate has a pleasing stance, gently stony fruit, although appropriately textured. Nice and ripe tannins in the background, good lightly peppery acidity too. The fruit has a good broad flesh, nicely framed, with those savoury notes as found on the nose. A very decent second wine. 15-16+/20

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral 2009: A very blue-crimson rim. The nose here is very open, perfumed with crunchy fruit, all with a bright and crystalline character. Bright and rather confected fruit on the palate though, with sweet raspberry, wild strawberry and violet. Good ripe tannins, with the firm but velvety style that characterises the vintage. The fruit profile is very different to what I expect though. The acidity is more subtle than in some other wines too. It could make for some appealing drinking at the right price, it just depends what happens to those unusual aromatics. 16-17+?/20

Chateau Haut Bages Monpelou 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 66%, Merlot 24%, Cabernet Franc 10%. Not an estate I am familiar with, but part of the Borie-Manoux portfolio (which includes Lynch-Moussas, Batailley and others). Dark, macerated cherry fruit here. Good substance on the palate, interesting fruit character, with a grainy cherry edge. Firm tannins in keeping with the vintage, but nice acids. Altogether rather straightforward though. 14.5-15.5/20

Chateau Haut-Batailley 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 78%, Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc 2%. 58% new oak. Yield 46 hl/ha. A nice vibrant hue. Dark and dense fruit, quite reserved, clean although with a rather solid style. The palate follows the same clean line, quite a cool and detached character, moderate concentration of fruit, although with a bright flavour profile, chalky raspberries and violets. Good tannins, towards the denser end of the spectrum, but very ripe. Nicely poised, this should pick up weight and be a very good Haut Batailley. 16.5-17.5+/20

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 82.5%, Merlot 17%, Petit Verdot 0.5%. 43% of the harvest. Very dark, a touch glossy. On the nose an elegant layer of creamed fruit here, reserved rather than exuberant. Slightly smoky, but very well defined and composed. The palate has a fine layer of creamed fruit which slowly unfolds on the palate, and it covers the alcohol very well, as well as the building tannin. Beautifully sweet, rich, expansive but also well contained within the frame of acidity. This is an exciting and very vibrant wine. Very stylish, composed and elegant, with a sleek and seamless composition, yet with great depth. Overall a brilliantly fashioned wine here. This will be magnificent, a Pauillac that should evolve into a wine of great elegance and beauty. 19-19.5+/20

Carruades de Lafite 2009: The second wine of Lafite-Rothschild which is 50.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42.2% Merlot, 2.2% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. 55% of the harvest. A fresh hue, perhaps not so concentrated as some. Fresh and slightly crunchy fruit on the nose, somewhat reserved, with a fruit profile that straddles red and black, with nuances of raspberry alongside darker mulberry and cherry. Nice poised on entry, gently fleshy and with a polished substance. Very supple, elegant, very delicately poised, overall the palate is very appealing. Ripe tannins give a fine backbone and there is good acidity too. Not the great flesh of some wines though, it is more restrained than that. Long too. Very good effort indeed. 17-18+/20

Chateau Latour 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 91.3%, Merlot 8.7%. Alcohol 13.7%, IPT 87, 38.3% of the harvest. Dense, red purple, very creamy concentration. The aromas here are magnificently perfumed and lifted, but with a very dense and tightly-creamed layer of dark berry fruits tinged with a sweet exoticism. What a palate too, broad and svelte, creamy seamlessness, but underneath this upper layer a ripe, dense, velvety but mouth-coating layer of prodigious tannins. The fruit copes admirably with them, and the acidity plays its part, providing a gentle balance rather than a vigorous tingle. This is an exceptional vin de garde which will need 20 or 30 years before this is anywhere near drinking. How can this be so harmonious, so balanced, and yet so structured and built up? The tannins persist in the mouth for minutes, the flavours slowly fading during this time. Undoubtedly a wine to make you sit up and pay attention. This is what Bordeaux is all about! Incredible; a wine to move me to tears. 19.5-20/20

Les Forts de Latour 2009: The second wine of Latour. Cabernet Sauvignon 65.1%, Merlot 32.3%, Cabernet Franc 0.6%, Petit Verdot 1.9%. Alcohol 13.5%, IPT 80, 45.9% of the harvest. A darker hue, a concentrated cherry red. A sweet and lightly creamed character to the fruit on the nose, with a suggestion of deeper substance too, a savoury meatiness behind the sweet fruit. Beautifully creamed fruit as the nose suggested on the palate, broad and impressive, with bold tannins and finely judged texture. Good lifting acidity too. Wonderful composition, very fine breadth and persistence. Beautiful tingling acidity from the start. Svelte and very serious tannins. A very good second wine, showing a very seductive style. 17.5-18.5+/20

Pauillac de Chateau Latour 2009: The third wine of Latour. Cabernet Sauvignon 53.8%, Merlot 46.2%. Alcohol 13.6%, IPT 83, 15.8% of the harvest. Crisply framed fruit on the nose. Fresh and quite classically presented. Very approachable style on the palate, good fruit to the fore, well defined and quite crisp but with rounded, harmonious edges. Good substance too. Very classically Pauillac. Well judged tannins, good and bright acidity at the front of it as well. Really nice sappy finish. Normally a wine I merrily pass over without too much thought, in this vintage the quality is extremely good. 15-16+/20

Chateau Lynch-Bages 2009: A deep and glossy appearance, with a crimson-blue rim. Very dark fruit on the nose, dark berries, and forest fruits, all with a sweet and slightly gritty character. On the palate a very sweet depth of fruit to match, creamed forest berries, velvety tannins, with lots of grip and spice. The acidity takes a backseat here, and overall it seems very open and approachable now. All the same, very good. 16.5-17.5+/20

Chateau Lynch-Moussas 2009: A cherry-red hue, and on the nose it has warm, macerated, confit cherry fruit. Lots of substance here, a big and bold fruit character, rather firm and alcoholic. Rather obvious tannins behind the fruit, which has a cherry edge. The problem with this wine is the fruit character; it reminds me too much of warm-vintage Bandol. Still, it still has drinkability, even if it isn't very reminiscent of Bordeaux. 15.5-16.5+/20

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 88%, Merlot 12%. Alcohol a very understated 13.1%. Like its stablemates also a deeply coloured but certainly not opaque wine, far from it. Very light blue tinge. The nose is a little reticent despite this sample having been decanted - not for long I should stress. A very linear attack of fruit on the nose, well honed with deep spice. On the palate it is the very svelte nature of the composition that impresses most, a tightly packed and silky layer of fruit coming first, before it slowly reveals a well-matched layer of ripe and delightfully grainy tannins beneath. Underneath it all a fine layer of acidity. Overall a very harmonious and yet richly composed wine, with all the necessary elements in place. It has more substance than Lafite, is more flashy and spicy, but with perhaps a less fine and direct definition, with a deeper layer of velvet hidden within its tannins. So broad and very pleasing on the palate, this is a superb and very typical Mouton that should please Mouton drinkers everywhere. The finish brings a surge of fruit, and it is very long indeed. I could hold this wine in my mouth forever if that were possible. 19-19.5+/20

Petit Mouton 2009: The second wine of Mouton, of course. Cabernet Sauvignon 63%, Merlot 22%, Cabernet Franc 15%. Good depth of colour, cherry-pink rim. Nicely spiced and exotic cherry fruit on the nose, very true to the Mouton style. Gentle cream on entry, fresh and balanced, with a fine layer of reserved but ripe, well polished, well honed fruit. Very fresh acidity giving the wine beautiful life, and well judged tannins which have a very gentle, svelte, creamy edge. Good polished fruit on the finish which is long and enticingly Mouton. A great second wine and very typical character. 17-18+/20

Chateau Pichon-Baron 2009: This wine has a very dark crimson-black appearance, with a bluish rim. Impressive fruit on the nose, dense, with forest fruits, bright but ripe and rich, and redolent of cherries swirled with cream. Elegant fruit on the palate, very composed. The tannins are so well hidden! Gorgeous yet well defined, almost lush fruit profile but the wine has the structure to cope. Tannins show a little more towards the finish, but that is fine, otherwise they are well covered by a coat of ripe, velvety tannins. Blue-black fruit in the finish. A superb Baron, with the upper hand between the Pichons in this vintage to my palate. 18-19+/20

Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2009: A good vibrant hue here, with a bluish tinge at the rim. Dark, concentrated, spicy fruit with a nice, gritty style. There is both purity and depth here, but also fruit complexity. The composition on entry is quite fine, and underneath there is a velvety coat of tannins, big and ripe. Quite harmonious though, elegantly composed, with a good spark of acidity too. Pichon-Lalande is sometimes accused of missing the boat on great vintages - as with 1990 and 2005 - but on the basis of this wine - admittedly nothing more than an early barrel sample - that doesn't appear to be the case in 2009. 17.5-18.5+/20

Chateau Pontet-Canet 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 30%, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 60% new oak, alcohol not clear but apparently in the order of 13-13.5%. Vibrant hue, bright, red-purple hue. Very dark concentrated fruit on the nose, dense forest fruit character. Plum and cherry, especially the latter. Lovely texture in entry, very creamy but also tightly defined, rather than soft or overly broad. Underneath this, a rich layer of tannin, all very composed, although rich and substantial. The fruit has a dense, black cherry edge with a crunchy spark to it. The tannins are rich and mouth coating, like heavy velvet curtains, but are in keeping with the rest of the wine. It has a union of massive structure, cleanly defined fruit and also freshness and acidity - quite a remarkable feat. Peppery acidity with it. Lovely fresh fruit. This is very impressive wine. Long and rich too. 18-19+/20

Chateau Beychevelle 2009: A dark and concentrated layer of fruit on the nose, sweet and somewhat confit in character, but very dark. Rather bold alcohol on the palate, firmly structured, piles of grippy tannins and extract here, although it does have good acidity too. It has a good presence of grip at least, but to my palate the whole package tastes a little overdone. 15-16+/20 

Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2009: This wine has a lovely concentration on inspection, with a vibrant cherry red. The nose has a cherry aroma, with a confit edge to it, but certainly very rich and pure in terms of fruit definition. The palate is lovely in terms of fruit definition, with good grip around the edges, Fresh acids, rather soft but building tannins with the usual rich and velvety feel of the vintage. Supple and quite juicy fruit, and a sappy finish. Really good character here, and plenty of potential. 17-18+/20

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 15%, 90% new oak, alcohol 13.5%. Glorious colour, dark and glossy, very concentrated hue with a vibrant purple rim. The nose has similar concentration, dense fruit, all creamy cherry and smoky blackcurrant. A very pure start on the palate, more restrained than I expected, with a burgeoning wall of tannin coming through the middle. This is immensely structured, but those tannins although broad and powerful are ripe with a velvety finish. A ton of velvet, maybe, but the point still stands. Concentrated fruit, great substance. Long and impressive. A great wine which needs to be laid down for twenty years, and then maybe another ten after that. Monumental. For your grandchildren. 18.5-19.5+/20

La Croix de Beaucaillou 2009: The second wine of Ducru-Beaucaillou. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 12 months in barrel, 60% new oak. Alcohol 13.4%. A very different nose to the Lalande-Borie and Petit Caillou. Much more elegance here, reserved and with some good stony fruit. Pure, stylish fruit. Lovely style on the palate, very full and creamy, but with a fine frame around it. Very stylish backbone, a great bolus of tannins in the midpalate and finish, although sitting very well with the rest of the wine. Quite long although with some pepper spice here. Impressive and bold. 16.5-17.5+/20

Le Petit Caillou 2009: A private bottling from Ducru-Beaucaillou for a small number of Bordeaux négociants. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol 13.5%, 30% new oak. A rather reserved nose, dusty fruit. Sweetly composed plate, nice substance, fresh, good acidity. Good spicy backbone, a nice wine overall. Good although straightforward. 15-16+/20

Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2009: Another wonderfully vibrant youthful hue here. Well-framed fruit on the nose, dark, a touch smoky, with nice concentration suggested. Also some spicy fruit complexity. The palate has some good well-defined fruit, although in a slightly lush style. Very well integrated though, velvety tannins, but overall bright, vigorous and concentrated. Good sappy flavours on the finish. Fair length. Really good promise here, and possibly good value too. 17-18+/20

Chateau Lagrange 2009: A very dark, crimson-black rim. Sweet fruit on the nose, all damsons and cherries, partly macerated in alcohol. Creamed fruit on the palate, very well composed, with lovely acidity too. It has a very fresh bite to it, welcome in view of the exuberant fruit. Well covered tannins, slightly savoury, fresh, yet intensely rich and really quite spicy. An attractive wine, although off the wall for the classicists I would think. 16.5-17.5+/20

Chateau Lalande-Borie 2009: Another wine shown at Ducru-Beaucaillou. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 30% new oak. Glossy and bright hue. Dark and spiced fruit on the nose here, mulberry and pepper, reserved and a touch earthy-savoury. Fairly supple at the start, dusty but not dry, good ripe and sweet fruit. Nice substance. Quite well hidden acidity and a supple, vin de plaisir style. Good but not exciting. 15-16+/20

Chateau Langoa-Barton 2009: A glossy, black-crimson hue to this wine. The nose suggests rich plump forest fruits, dark and a touch savoury. The palate is boldly styled, with lots of soft fruit within, rather glossy and seamless. There is a rather firm hint of alcohol here, adding to the mouthfeel somewhat. Lots of ripe, velvety tannins too. Moderate acidity, and a very long finish. This is tasting very well, but that trace of alcohol detracts. 17-18+/20

Chateau Léoville-Barton 2009: A very deeply coloured wine again. And another crimson-purple rim. A fantastic nose here, loaded with pure and evocative fruit. Creamed blackcurrant, cassis-level richness, with touches of tar and rose petals. The palate starts off with a creamy style in keeping with the impressions on the nose, the supple and harmonious composition backed up by plenty of rolling, heavy-velvet tannins. Quite a cool, detached. elegant style despite this structure, well balanced with fresh acidity. For me, this wine has the upper hand in this vintage, but I am sure that many will prefer the delicious Poyferré. A classic Léoville-Barton? Probably not. Long-lived and delicious - given time - though? Almost certainly. 18-19+/20

Chateau Léoville-Las-Cases 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 76%, Merlot 15%, Cabernet Franc 9%. IPT 70, alcohol 13.4%, new oak 65%. Sweet fruit on the nose here, ripe and toothsome, elegantly poised, attractive although it doesn't provide the immediate impact and vibrancy that the 2008 did last year. Concentrated though, with a bright crystalline quality, fine and elegantly aromatic. The palate comes in very gently, showing firmly framed fruit, yielding to lots of ripe, bold, tannins; these have a very smooth, polished but plump weight. There is some bright acidity cutting through the middle providing some lift and freshness. Lovely supple-sappy fruit on the finish. Very long and savoury. A very elegant Las-Cases this year. 17.5-18.5+/20

Clos de Marquis 2009: A contemporary of Léoville-Las-Cases; same estate, different vineyards. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. IPT 62, alcohol 13.8%, new oak 25%. Nicely refined fruit character here, open and fresh. The palate starts off with a gently composed substance, but then shows a darker cherry character to the fruit, although it maintains a freshness throughout. Good supple tannins, not overbearing, nice acidity too. At the moment it is very soft and youthful but it will come together with time. Just a touch of fleeting heat detracts. But overall an understated wine which could be very good. 16-17+/20

Le Petit Lion du Marquis de Las Cases 2009: Remarkably, following some replanting, the team at Las-Cases have created a second wine (Clos du Marquis is often referred to as such, but it actually comes from a subsection of vineyards within the Las-Cases estate). So this is fruit from young vines, and also some Merlot unsuitable for the grander wines. Merlot 71%, Cabernet Sauvignon 29%. IPT 61, alcohol 13.8%, new oak 15%. Fabulously naff label. Very nice and lively fruit. Finely composed start on the palate, but showing that bold alcohol from the Merlot as it moves into the middle. Very softly composed, quite grippy tannins, but it is that Merlot that dominates. Soft acidity. 14.5-15.5+/20

Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2009: An intensely black hue at the core here, with a vibrant blue-crimson rim. The nose has some very rich and meaty fruit, with a great smoky depth. Creamed fruit character, dense but evocative. The palate is rather cool and detached on entry, with a supple layer of fruit. Underneath, a bold, spicy layer of acidity. The tannins are ripe and well managed, coating the mouth, taking the wine forward into a crisply defined and spicy finish. Very long too. Delicious and very well made wine; I prefer its Barton contemporary, but maybe that's just me. So many prefer Poyferré these days. 17.5-18.5+/20

Chateau Saint-Pierre 2009: This wine has a very dark core with a bright crimson rim. The nose provides us with some bright and crystalline fruit, with a dark, black berry character. A very cool style on entry, supple, although through the middle it has a more lush feel. A good core of acidity, and a layer of soft, well-honed tannins. The finish has a pure, soft fruit character, leading into a good length. An attractive wine, with no unnecessary fuss; this should come very good. 17-18+/20

Chateau Talbot 2009: This wine has a dark core and a cherry pink rim. On the nose it is dark and slightly gamey, although with some good bright edges. The palate has some appeal, although it carries gamey fruit here also, with some roasted cherry stones. A good upright tannic backbone, rather moderate acidity. Great character but it feels a little soft for me, although it does show a bright acidity in the finish. I suspect this will be a must-buy for Talbot-lovers. 15.5-16.5+/20