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Bordeaux 2006: En primeur, April 2007
Bordeaux 2006
En primeur
First taste, April 2007
At One Year
At Two Years
The 2006 vintage has not been an easy one for the Bordelais, and the wines have certainly not made themselves in the way they were said to do in 2005. Indeed, some have described it is the Vintage of the Vigneron, no doubt wishing to convey some message about the difficulties of the harvest and the vinification that followed. My first taste of the vintage courtesy of Bibendum in London in April 2007 was a chance to assess the wines for myself.
Certainly this is no 2005. Whereas that vintage was a delight to taste even though the wines were so young, the wines of 2006 were harder work, in most cases at least. One area in which there was no difficulty at all, however, was dry white Bordeaux. Generalising, if I may, this is the only area in which 2006 excels, the only genre where exciting, compelling wines can be found (allowing for the fact that I have not tasted first growths or certain exalted wines of the right bank). The Pape-Clément and Domaine de Chevalier are both sublime, others are excellent, and in a number of cases (although not all) I find the 2006 preferable to the 2005 or 2004, where I have the relevant tasting experience to make the comparison. The sweet whites, however, are not so thrilling. I have only tasted a mere handful, so dare not generalise, but those I have sampled lack impact, concentration, richness and most of all botrytis. They do have a bright character to their flavour, but this is insufficient and I would suggest lovers of Sauternes and Barsac look to older vintages - there have been many excellent ones in recent years - if they desire to restock their cellar.
Naturally the discussion in Bordeaux always gravitates to the red wines, and here is where the vintage really shows its true colours. At first glance many of the wines seem enticing, capturing the taster's attention with their fresh, crisp aromas. But the pleasure derived from the aromas simply does not carry onto the palate in many cases, where the wines are frequently lacking flesh and substance. There are some good wines here or there, but none truly thrilling from the limited selection I tasted, and that is unusual I think; there are usually one or two that excite somewhere among the crowd. In addition, there were some notable disappointments, with some high-flying, over-performing estates seemingly faltering in this difficult vintage. My notes should reveal which these properties are. There were some fairly good wines in St Julien, a consistent commune, where only one or two wines let the side down badly, and there were also some successes in Margaux. Elsewhere the good wines were even more thinly spread. But the question is, are the wines good enough - and set to escalate in value sufficiently - to make it worth purchasing them en primeur?
In an attempt to provide an easy soundbite for the vintage any number of descriptors and comparisons have been thrown at it alongside Vintage of the Vigneron. It seems accepted that this is no equal to 2005, 2003 (not a great vintage, but some great wines) or 2000. Yet some have suggested 2006 is midway between 2005 and 2004 in quality, and "better than expected". Others have more realistically placed it nearer to any number of recent lesser vintages, including 2004, 2002 and 2001. The talk from the proprietors on the day of this tasting was largely that 2006 is superior to 2004, no doubt setting up the consumer for a price which, although down from the loftily ambitious peaks seen with the 2005 vintage, will generally be higher than those for 2004. My own opinion was that there was little to choose between 2004 and 2006 - a number of estates showed both vintages together, aiding me in this assessment - and where I expressed a preference 2004 generally came out on top. I also recall that with 2004 there were at least a number of red wines that truly excited me, which cannot be said of this vintage. In view of the expected prices being even higher than those for 2004, this vintage may not be a wise buy at present. The wines (only a few have been released at the time of publication of these notes) are looking over-priced, and are very unlikely - except at the very highest level - to move significantly in price in the coming year or two. Nevertheless, what happens with the vintage - whether it sells like hot cakes or is left to languish on retailer's shelves - depends on Parker's scores. Only once these are released will the situation begin to become clearer. (3/5/07)
Bordeaux 2006 - Tasting Notes
The following wines were tasted in April 2007. I have categorised the
wines according to commune. Scores are presented as a range, rather than my usual single number,
reflecting the unfinished nature of the wines; at this stage some wines will
have barely finished malolactic
fermentation, and with months in oak yet to come undoubtedly some will flesh out
somewhat. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Haut-Marbuzet 2006: Rather sulphurous on the nose, with notes
of struck matches. Quite a nice style on the palate, soft and round, beneath
that some grip. Seems a bit dried out. It has some flesh though, is attractive,
and has some interesting feral components. Nice acidity. Decent. 14-15/20
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Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2006: A nice nose here, quite complex, with a good
depth of fruit. Attractive palate, rounded, textured, some good flesh to cover
the tannins. Decent acidity. This has good character and is an interesting wine. 16-17/20
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Chateau Phélan-Ségur 2006: A pleasing nose, of dark, toasty fruit. Nice
style, a touch of flesh to the fore, but a slightly hollow midpalate, with lots
of structure beneath. It has a nice character though and I hope it would flesh
out a little in barrel. Lots of firm grip and good acidity. Decent wine. 15-16/20
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Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral 2006: Rather muted but attractive fruit on
the nose. Light on the palate, quite elegant, and fresh. It has a little depth
and a firmness to what fruit there is here. It is decently composed, but lacking
in impact. At best, nice. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau Pibran 2006: A new blend for Pibran, with the Merlot increased
to 70%, Cabernet now just 30%. Previously 50-50. Sweet fruit on the nose, smoky,
a bit meaty. Fresh, rather light, not a lot of depth. Firm, ripe tannins and
good acidity. It lacks character. It may have more appeal when it has fleshed
out in barrel, but not impressive today. 13-14/20
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Chateau Pichon-Baron 2006: Attractive, vibrant red fruit, and a touch
toasty on the nose. The palate has a very dry, reserved character, very firm,
with moderate acidity and a little flesh, not quite enough to cover the tannins
at present. Overall it is very backward today, and seems hugely tannic and yet
lacking in the substance necessary to counterbalance this. This might be a
problem. A disappointment for the AXA Pichon-Baron team, who have been on a roll
recently. 14-15/20
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Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2006: On the nose this has a chalky, stony,
mineral edged fruit style which I think I have noticed from Branaire in a
small handful of recent vintages now. Full, rather perfumed, nice ripe tannins,
and a chalky, stony edge rather like that on the nose. Decent texture and
weight. Branaire seems to be ranking among the better wines St Julien more and
more these days. This is not a patch on the 2005 - but no surprises there. 15.5-16.5/20
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Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2006: Opened seconds before pouring, rather
closed, and this may affect the assessment. Just a little stone and chalk edged fruit. It has a touch more flesh
than some of the other wines. It is certainly attractive, with a ripe coating of
tannins, quite fresh, and nicely composed. To be critical it lacks compelling vigour and direction, which a number of the better wines of the commune display,
but still a good Gruaud. 15-16/20
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Chateau Lagrange 2006: Quite open on the nose, sweet fruit, nice
freshness. Rounded, lots of tannin, moderate texture, but not really enough
flesh for me. Nice acidity, some good fruit. It is lively but lacks substance. Good. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau Langoa-Barton 2006: A very open and evocative nose here, and the
palate turns out to be in a similar vein, quite rounded, plump, with good
flavour. Rather a chalky edge to it, but a nice texture too, and fresh acidity.
Not quite sufficient vigour to really excite me, but a good wine. It pales into
insignificance when you recall the immense success of 2005. 15.5-16.5/20
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Chateau Léoville-Barton 2006: Attractive, open fruit, strong, appealing,
and even a little delicate perfume which is a tad surprising. Nice weight, good texture,
rather chalky tannins below which are not wholly covered by the wine. Firm,
fresh acidity, it has a lot of structure and borderline sufficient fruit. It has
some vivacity. It is for the long haul and is probably good for it, but a
note of caution here, this is not a great Léoville-Barton. And will the price be right? 16-17?/20
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Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2006: This has some forceful, seemingly plump,
ripe, smoky fruit on the nose. It has depth. A moderate texture, attractive, a
touch light on texture although there is the barest hint of cream to it at the
edge. Soft, ripe tannins, attractive correct acidity. Nice, rather plump as the
nose suggested, nicely put together. It feels a bit soft and modern to me, but
may firm up and will please many I think. 16-17/20
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Chateau Talbot 2006: Nice sweet fruit on the nose. But the palate
doesn't live up to expectations. Rather hollow, moderate fruit at best, ripe
tannins, good acidity. It has an appealing composition, but lacks substance.
Talbot often fails to impress at this stage I think. It
may flesh out but not inspiring right now. 13.5-14.5/20
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Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2006: A lot of character here, which is good. A
firm and nutty style, rather perfumed, almost to the level of being soapy.
Rather chalky palate, all structure and no flesh. Rather bare tannins. This wine
lacks flavour, character and concentration. 12-13/20
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Chateau Cantenac-Brown 2006: Quite an interesting nose here, showing
notes of toffee and nuts, and some attractive fruit. An unusual style though. On
the palate, plump although not very deep or plush, but nicely poised. Not a lot
of structure to it though, a subdued layer of tannin behind it all. Lacks
concentration of flavour, giving a rather hollow midpalate. A good effort though. 14-15/20
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Chateau
Durfort-Vivens 2006: Quite a depth of fruit on the nose here at first,
perfume, stony character quite true to the commune. Full, rounded, plump palate,
but a gentle texture, in general a middleweight. Rather firmer on the finish,
where there are notes of liquorice. Peppery tannin. Overall, an unusual style. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau
Ferrière 2006: Quite open an evocative, deep fruit, nutty, lots of style
here. Nicely rounded character, soft and plump, with a decent peppery acidity. A
ripe grip too. This is deeper and more interesting than many wines here today.
Good style, and another success for Clare Villars. 16-17/20
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Chateau
Giscours 2006: Nicely perfumed nose, attractive, with a good presence of
fruit too. Rounded but well defined, quite fresh, nicely textured and with a
good weight. Beneath it all, a firm structure and good acidity. This is a very
good effort, in the context of the vintage, for Giscours, an increasingly
successful Margaux estate. 16-17/20
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Chateau
Kirwan 2006: There is some nice fruit here, seemingly quite deep and
concentrated with some deep fruit. Fresh, rounded, spicy, firm Margaux
character. It has a little vigour, and is certainly nicely balanced. Spicy. I
like this. 16-17/20
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Chateau Rauzan-Ségla 2006: On the nose this has a lovely, stony,
perfumed fruit which speaks very much of the commune. On the palate it is
another attractive, light-footed wine with spiced fruits. It is rounded,
attractive, not compelling, but it may fatten up in barrel to develop a little
more punch. Pleasing enough now though. 16-17+/20
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Chateau du
Tertre 2006: Very open, fresh and bright red fruits on the nose. The
palate is a little light in style, but has a little hint of cream on the edge.
Midweight overall, a touch delicate, light-footed, subtle, with fine, ripe
tannins. Fresh acidity. This is pretty good wine. 15.5-16.5/20
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Chateau Camensac 2006: An intriguing nose, notes of smoky coffee and
liquorice-laced fruit. Rather light-footed, but it has texture, although it is
somewhat lacking through the hollow midpalate. A touch unfocused. Well coated
structure, firm and ripe coating of tannins, and moderate acidity. Nicely
composed, just lacking impact. 13.5-14.5/20
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Chateau
Cantemerle 2006: Sweet, sweet, sweet black fruit here on the nose.
Rather a full style on the palate, ripe, a little creamy, rounded with a good
texture. A bit of extract here, grippy, with decent acidity too. Nicely put
together. Not at all compelling, but I think they have done well for the
vintage. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau Sociando-Mallet 2006: A nice, open, dark fruit nose.
Pleasing, Rounded fruit, attractive, nice middleweight style, rather plump, but
with fresh acidity. Certainly showing a little more flesh than when tasted at
the chateau last year. An attractive package. 15.5-16.5/20
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Chateau Chasse-Spleen 2006: This has a rather restrained nose, rather
subdued. It certainly lacks impact on the palate. There is a ripe rounding off
of tannins, nicely presented, but little in the way of texture or flesh. A
rather bare, exposed wine which perhaps shows the difficulties of the vintage.
Not a success for Chasse-Spleen it seems. 13-14/20
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Chateau Poujeaux 2006: Smoky charcoal on the nose, rather feral,
animalistic character. Lean palate, obvious, short on concentration and
character. A lot of structure showing too. Rather bare tannins, insufficiently
matched by the substance of the wine. Not a great success. 12-13/20
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Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc 2006: 65% SB, 35% Sem. Not so expressive on
the nose here, rather muted, soft fruit, a touch of oak. Full style, rounded,
not the vigour of some other white Graves, a touch flabby compared to others,
full, some grip, but not so well focused. Nice but there are better choices in this
vintage. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau Carbonnieux 2006: Attractive, open, well-defined fruit.
Appealing. Round, plump, a middleweight. Firm tannins, a touch austere, firm,
extracted, good acidity too. This certainly has appeal. It is fresher and
certainly superior to the white. 15-16/20
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Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2006: A vibrant, open, expressive nose,
fresh with great depth. It has complex notes of spice and exotic fruits, with
passion fruit, grapefruit and candied notes, all presented in a very broad and
pleasing style. Full, with a moderate body, spicy, with a lovely
structure. Firm, peppery acidity. Pleasing. Quickly fading finish but with age I
suspect this will broaden out. Wonderful. One of the stars of the vintage. 18-19+/20
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Domaine de Chevalier 2006: An attractive nose, with some spicy, nutty
fruit. The palate has a full, creamy style with some ripe, rather grainy
tannins. It has moderate acidity. Attractive, although not the fresh and vibrant style I
would like, but it has many good points. 15-16/20
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Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc 2006: 70% SB, 30% Sem. A quite beautiful
nose, fresh and vibrant with grapefruit and grass notes, creamy, white pepper
and flower petals. Fairly full, quite firm, peppery, structured, a nice style
overall. Grippy and firm. Rather lithe. I like this. 16.5-17.5/20
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Chateau de Fieuzal 2006: Showing an unusual fruit profile at the
moment, with slightly sweaty notes alongside a creamy confected sweet fruit
reminiscent of a bar of seaside rock more than anything else. Nevertheless it
has a pleasing composition, full and plump fruit, ripe tannins nicely covered
beneath. Quite firm, with quite correct acidity too. A nice style. 16-17+/20
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Chateau
Haut-Bailly 2006: An attractive nose, with deep, nutty fruit. Sweet with
a nice depth. On the palate, though, rather soft, with moderate acidity, but
with a nice, open, relaxed fruit forward style. Gentle, ripe tannins. Like some
other wines it is nicely composed but it has no vigour. I am usually a great fan
of Haut-Bailly so it pains me to say that this isn't what I was hoping for. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau Pape-Clément Blanc 2006: Vibrant nose, with passionfruit and
grapefruit, fresh and vigorous on the palate, with firm acidity and a very nice
composition. Open, expressive, gentle and elegant, yet firm, with a slight
toasty edge. Nettly, green and vibrant on the finish. This is excellent. A star
wine of the vintage. 18-19+/20
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Chateau Pape-Clément 2006: Beautifully pure and open fruit on the
palate, fine definition, full and rounded, not quite creamy. A firm grip
underneath, a plush fruit texture, very good acidity. It has freshness, but
doesn't leap out of the glass. Nevertheless it has a very nice composition and I
think this has very fine potential. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc 2006: 90% SB, 5% Sem, 5% S-Gris. Fresh.
Creamy, green-nettly nose. Vibrant and open, with candied confected fruit. A
moderate texture and weight, peppery, grippy, full and firm. Good structure,
this has very nice style, and is full of potential, although I preferred last
years effort slightly more I think. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte 2006: Rather a sweetly-scented nose, with
ripe fruit alongside notes of cough-candy and aniseed. Full, moderately
concentrated, a soft style, with ripe, defined but gentle tannins and moderate
acidity. There are some nice components here but overall it lacks the freshness
and structure I seek. 13-15/20
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Chateau La Prade 2006: Very rich fruit here, appealing, nutty,
attractive black fruit. Full, round and broad. Rather gentle acidity. Not so
fresh as a result, plump, a little grip for backbone, nice flesh. Rather simple. 13-14/20
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Chateau d'Aiguilhe 2006: Vibrant berry fruit and oak on the nose,
sweet crunchy berries, red fruit more than black. Lean, quite delicate, not a
lot of tannin, rather moderate acidity. Rather understated. Quite well balanced,
fresh, well delineated. Decent style. 14-15/20
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Chateau Angélus 2006: M 65%, CF 35%. A
evocative, pure fruit nose, with some sweet oak already. Very indistinct on the
palate, flabby, unfocused.
No vigour or poise, and we should expect both. Soft, although there are some
grippy tannins beneath it all, but it is a little deficient in acidity, freshness and a general
presence on the palate. It is decent wine, but we have come to expect more
from Angélus in recent years. 15-16?/20
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Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière 2006: An appealing nose, sweet, primary
black fruits, not a hint of greenness here! Nice flesh on the palate, well
poised, good acidic structure, full, a touch plump, quite vibrant, firm, with
good potential. Yes, this is very good indeed. 16-17+/20
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Clos de l'Oratoire 2006: A very deep, plush fruit nose with some oak
apparent. Pure black fruits, rather lifted, a touch green and leafy, slightly
minty despite minimal Cabernet Franc this year. Slightly confected, but it is
young. A middleweight palate, firm grippy tannic base, good acidity but like
some other wines not a lot of flesh over it. A touch lean and stretched out. Not
a great effort. 14.5-15.5/20
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Clos Fourtet 2006: Good fresh fruit here, sweet, a touch smoky. Full
and concentrated on the palate, quite broad, good typicité. Nicely appealing
texture, lovely grip, firm, not a lot of flesh. This is attractive and has
potential. A good wine for this vintage. 16-17/20
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Chateau Figeac 2006: A really impressive nose here, quite explosive,
full of fruit, clearly very different to some of the other wines from St Emilion tasted
here. A nice style on the palate, quite composed, although a little lean on entry. A fleshy midpalate, nicely covering the ripe tannins at the core. Sweet,
stony fruit and firm acidity. This is really very good. 16.5-17.5/20
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Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2006: Nutty and creamy fruit on the nose. A
nice palate, a little jammy, plump and rounded, with some nice, ripe, grippy
tannins beneath. Nicely put together so far, but I find it lacks freshness and
vigour. Muted, lacking direction. Good but would be better if it had a touch
more vivacity. 14-15/20
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Chateau
Pavie-Macquin 2006: Rather muted dark fruits on the nose, rather mellow,
and it has a rich, sweet, bramble jelly character. Nice tannins, ripe, well
spread out on the palate, covered by some ripe, plush fruit. Not particularly
fresh or vigorous, but firm, and grippy, and nicely fleshed out. Grip on the
finish too. Good wine but not the most vigorous. 15.5-16.5/20
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Chateau La Conseillante 2006: A deep, plush, concentrated style, with
lots of fruit which has a rather complex, exotic edge to it, a little savage or
feral. The same on the palate, although there is a sweetness too, with firm
tannins beneath. Very firm in fact, solid confiture fruit, attractively
composed, fresh acidity. Complex and interesting. Lovely grip and acidity. Very
good indeed, with excellent potential. 17.5-18.5/20
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Chateau
Feytit-Clinet 2006: Open black fruit on the nose, a sweet bubblegum
style, certainly rather confected, but it is a very young wine. Rather lean on
the palate, with a little grip and rather soft, gentle acidity. Not enough flesh
on its bones for me, although this may develop in barrel I suppose. There is
some potential here. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Gazin 2006: Rather subdued on the nose, with some clean berry
fruit all that is showing. Rather delicate, nicely composed, a lighter style.
Decent acidity, and a gentle tannic structure. Rather pretty, but not very
substantial. I have had better. 14-15/20
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Chateau Petit Village 2006: An interesting style, seems a little
chemical on the nose although the aroma was difficult to pin down. Difficult to
judge. Plump and creamy texture on the palate. Soft and rounded, with moderate
acidity at best. Very ripe, creamy tannins, open, looseknit, certainly lacking
in focus. It is interesting, but I do sound a note of caution on this one. 14.5-15.5?/20
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Chateau Doisy-Védrines 2006: Fresh, open, delicate and really quite
pretty. White fruits, vibrant flavour, rather low acidity, pleasing flavours, a
little grip, clean and well presented. Could be an early-drinking crowd-pleaser.
Not serious or rich in botrytis, but quite nice. 15-16/20
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Chateau Guiraud 2006: Not very expressive on the nose, a little herby-nettly,
but with some sweet candied fruit too. On the lighter side of a middle weight,
not very concentrated, creamy and clean though. Not much botrytis character, and
a decent texture too. Quite good. 15-16/20
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Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud 2006: An attractive nose, fresh and sweet, with notes
of candied fruits. Fat, open, again not the depth or concentration of some other
wines. Broad though, nice profile of flavour, low-level grip and acidity.
Pleasing. But not really endowed with botrytis at all. 14-15/20
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Chateau
Suduiraut 2006: A vibrant nose. Slightly confected candied fruits. Very
nice flavours on the palate, delicate flower petals, creamy oak. Candied fruits
as on the nose, but not a lot of concentration or depth really. Not a lot of
botrytis either. Moderate acidity. Decent, nothing more. 14.5-15.5/20
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