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Bordeaux 2006: Pessac-Léognan
Bordeaux 2006
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Pessac-Léognan
If there was one set of wines I was looking forward to tasting at the annual Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting of the 2006 vintage it was the white wines from Graves, or to be more specific the wines of the Graves enclave delimited in 1987, Pessac-Léognan.
As mentioned already, cooler weather through August before a dry and warm harvest in September did the fruit of the Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc vines no harm at all. The lower temperatures no doubt contributed to the preservation of the acidity which is tangible in the finished wines, and which in my opinion makes them so superior to the wines of the 2005 vintage.
Having already encountered some of the top wines once or twice before I have already seen consistent quality, albeit with one or two disappointments. At this tasting there were no such issues; those wines that have shone in previous tastings were just as good, particularly, Domaine de Chevalier and Pape-Clément, but there were also a number of wines which seemed to have developed better definition, a better frame for the fruit and texture, better tension, and I would place Carbonnieux and Latour-Martillac in this group. Otherwise, the majority of the wines continued the aforementioned consistency. Generalising, the wines show vibrant aromatics and flavour, framed by a taut acidity which gives the wine great definition and vivacity in the mouth.
The notes and scores presented below are as written at the UGC tasting, and as usual I present the white wines prior to the red. (28/5/08)
Pessac-Léognan 2006 - Tasting Notes
Tasted at the UGC de Bordeaux tasting in October 2008. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Bouscaut Blanc 2006:
This wine has a lovely, fresh style. It has a green fruit and leafy-herby
character on the nose, with a little touch of lemon curd. A good palate follows,
very fresh, with an appealing style. Firm rather than exuberant, but very bright
and structured. It has a nice grip too. Perhaps not showing as well as it did
when tasted earlier in the year, but very good all the same. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc 2006:
Beautifully expressive nose here, leafy and herby, but overtly rich too,
with notes of pear, creamy white fruits and yellow capsicum. The palate is fresh
and balanced, quite rich as the nose suggested, with a supple character and
plenty of green-yellow fruit. The acidity is a little gentle, and it seems a
touch diffuse in parallel with my previous tasting note. But it is much
improved. 16.5+/20
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Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
2006: A nose of vibrant white cream here, herby and aromatic, but it seems
also very vinous, elegant, stylish, with a stony-mineral element. It is
wonderfully expressive. The palate is rich and it has a charming presence in
the mouth, with a clean and deep character, supported by good grip. It also has
some good length. Truly excellent wine. 18.5+/20
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Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc 2006:
This wine has a more reserved, stony, mineral nose, touched today with the
barest hint of sulphur which I suspect will be of no real significance after a
little while in bottle. The palate has rock dust and minerals, and a rather
fatter style than some of the preceding wines. Rather subdued acidity too,
accompanied by notes of watery green fruit, unusually with a kiwi-like
character. Good. 16.5+/20
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Chateau de France Blanc 2006: A slightly high-toned mineral
and rock-dust nose here, with a rich, fruity, lemony vein. The palate is
full, fresh, rich and curdy, it has fatness but also a decent grip
beneath. There is a firm backbone of acidity with it too. This has a
good, firm style and is an admirable effort. 16.5+/20
Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion
Blanc 2006: This particular wine has a rather light and herby nose at first,
but there is a welcome rich seam of fruit too. In fact with a little time it
shows a rather full and flashy style and this is true on the palate where there
is a firm grip and lots of vigour. Herbs, lemongrass and stone fruits provide
some appealing complexity of flavour. This is an impressive wine. 17+/20
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Chateau Latour-Martillac
Blanc 2006: This has an immediately appealing nose, with restrained capsicum
notes and slightly oatmealy oak. It is fresh but full, attractive and slightly
fat on the palate. Underneath though there is a lot of acidity, providing much
better definition than I found last time, more vigour and verve. This has an
attractively rich, citrus fruit finish and overall I think it has great
potential. A much higher score today. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Malartic-Lagravière
Blanc 2006: This wine is not so expressive as some on the nose, showing
just some subtle but fresh fruit. On the palate it has a supply but flashy
substance, which is vigorous and lively despite being rich and a touch flashy.
It has a fine, bright, citrus peel element, and overall is very well composed
and attractive. I like this very much indeed. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Olivier
Blanc 2006: Here we have a creamy citrus nose, with herb-tinged fruit, and a
touch of honey, mint, aniseed and minerals. This all comes through on the palate
which has a nice weight, with plenty of grip and nice acidity. This is a wine of
some complexity with good substance in the mouth and overall I think it to be a
success. 17+/20
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Chateau Pape-Clément Blanc 2006:
As expected oak dominates the nose at this stage, showing in a fairly appealing
fashion, aromas of oatmeal and honeyed wood. But alongside this there are some
very fresh, green fruit characteristics which keep my interest. The palate is
fat, perhaps oak-influenced, showing plenty of texture and grip perhaps for the
same reason. It has some appealing liquorice elements alongside the fruit. It
should go without saying this needs time to integrate, but I think given that it
could be really very good indeed. 18+/20
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Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte
Blanc 2006: This has exuberant and creamy white fruits, with a touch of rich
honey. It is delightful; the palate has a lot of fat, carrying through as a
midpalate weight, but it is also savoury and appealing, with plenty of grip and
acidity underneath it all. Vibrant and firm, I seem to like this wine more and
more each time I taste it. This is excellent, and although different in style to
both Pape-Clément and Chevalier, it is close in terms of quality. 18+/20
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Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion
2006: I wouldn't normally make any comment on colour at this stage but this
surprises me with its already maturing hue. It has dense and dark fruit on the
nose, with a macerated quality, and a touch of undergrowth. Rather dry, austere,
lots of firm tannin on the palate, although the fruit is quite gentle in
comparison. Over-worked, with a huge, grippy finish. Not a success based in this
showing. 15?+/20
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Domaine de Chevalier
2006: A dense colour and dense fruit here, with a creamy vanilla nose. The
palate is supple, with ripe and fairly dense tannins, and a good acid backbone.
This wine has substance but also elegance and this makes an excellent
combination in a wine. There is a little flashy side to it but overall I think
it really good, and much better than my initial impressions. 17+/20
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Chateau Haut-Bailly 2006:
This wine does not seem so immediately expressive on the nose today, but there
are elements of dark and macerated fruit here. The palate is supple, well
integrated, a little soft perhaps although it certainly has elegance. It is
ripe, with correct acidity, and has a very complete and composed style with a
little richness coming in later. This has very good potential. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion
2006: This has a lot of nutty, slightly feral-charry fruit, with some notes
of tobacco too. The palate is appealing though, as it shows a lot of Graves
character already, with tobacco leaf fruit over some ripe tannins. Nice although
rather gentle acidity. Good. 16+/20
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Chateau Pape-Clément 2006:
Lots of flashy oak in this young wine, with aromas of spiced fruits and honey
signifying this. It is soft, supple and well rounded, with a firm midpalate and
lots of ripe grip. It has a very plump, diffuse character but there is acidity
in it, and woody tannins, it just doesn't seem well integrated at present. There
is substance to it though and I suspect it will come good with time. 17+/20
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Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte
2006: Previously tasted, with some improvement, this trend continues here;
today the wine shows some deep fruit and nutty oak, with round and flashy
character although there is a somewhat austere midpalate. Ripe and grainy
tannins, lots of sweet substance and good vigour too. A touch of tobacco in the
finish. Could be very good. 16.5+/20
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