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Bordeaux 2006: The Médoc Communes

As I alluded in my introduction, in this tasting it was probably St Julien that performed most consistently, with a number of enjoyable wines. Léoville-Barton and Léoville-Poyferré deserve the usual mention, but Lagrange, Langoa and even the too-often-overlooked St Pierre have also earned a moment in the limelight with some good wines. Nevertheless, this statement is not meant to imply that this is the only commune where the best wines are to be found. From Pauillac there were also some very good wines, with both the Pichon estates performing well, and an impressive wine from Pontet Canet too.

Margaux was true to form in terms of inconsistency, and the styles varied from lighter and elegantly gravelly such as Rauzan-Ségla through to deeply coloured, characterful and oaky, naturally an easy description for the new Lascombes, although there are of course a few imitators within the appellation. As a result I was a little broader than usual in my scoring, keeping to a less specific range, rather than settling for a single figure, for a handful of these wines. My favourite wine from this commune was Giscours, which to me seems to have been on something of a roll recently. From the lesser communes of Listrac and Moulis and also the Haut-Médoc there were no really exciting wines, and as is the norm at this tasting of two-year-old wines the cohort present from St Estèphe was of inadequate size to make any worthwhile judgement.

The notes and scores presented below are as written at the UGC tasting, and as usual I present the wines running from St Estèphe down to Margaux, with the appellations of Moulis, Listrac and Haut-Médoc after that. (30/10/08)

The Médoc Communes 2006 - Tasting Notes

Tasted at the UGC de Bordeaux tasting in October 2008. Click to locate stockists.

St Estèphe

Chateau Cos Labory 2006: Lots of sweet oak here, a honey-tinged, blackberry crumble nose with plenty of similarly sweet fruit. Nicely textured on the palate, a dry and structured midpalate, with grainy tannins. Quite a firm grip, with a good, savoury finish. Overall this is well put together although there is a lot of oak and structure for the fruit. 15.5+/20

Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2006: A dry and oaky edge to the nose here, alongside dark, sweet cherry fruit. It has a nicely bright palate, which possesses a good tannic backbone well covered by blackberry fruit. Slightly austere structure through the midpalate, a serious style of wine with a lot of grip. Nevertheless it has a good composition. 16+/20

Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 2006: Warm and spicy fruit here, nutty oak, and a ripe and supple character on the palate. It has a well composed style, with a vigorous acid backbone and plenty of tannic grip beneath. Ripe, attractive, although a little dry and dusty. 15.5+/20

Chateau Phélan-Ségur 2006: This has sweet, nutty oak and dark fruit evident on the nose. A supple, gentle character on the palate, but with a lot of tannins underneath, although admittedly with a ripe feel to them. An appealing style overall, although I think it just lacks a little flesh and substance to round it out. 15+/20

Pauillac

Chateau d'Armailhac 2006: A very organic nose, notes of iodine, with dense fruit underneath, and aromas of creamy vanilla. A dry palate, just moderate flesh to it, with a lot of tannic grip. With only moderate fruit to match, this is a rather classically styled wine with a slightly bitter finish. Not as giving on the palate as the nose perhaps suggested. 15.5+/20

Chateau Clerc-Milon 2006: This seems rather more generous than the corresponding d'Armailhac on the nose, with some sweet raspberry fruit albeit with a little stalky edge. A gentle palate, well judged it seems, with ripe cherry fruit draped over a rather dry, tannic backbone, culminating in a rather tight, grippy finish. It is veering towards the austere, but is still good. 16+/20

Chateau Croizet-Bages 2006: There is some residual sulphur showing on the nose here, the aroma of freshly struck matches obscuring the cherry fruit beneath. Supple, fairly reserved and subdued wine, lacking in midpalate vigour. Although there is also a note of sulphur on the palate it has a fresh finish, and a nicely integrated composition. Some good points here. 14.5+/20

Chateau Pichon-Baron 2006: This has aromas of fresh fruit and vanilla ice cream on the nose, with exotic and vibrant raspberry fruit to the fore. Elegant entry, nicely balanced, with more of that sweet raspberry fruit wrapped up in fresh cream and vanilla ice cream. A lot of body and character here. Overall a balanced, elegantly structured wine with some finesse that has scored higher and higher each time I have tasted it. 17.5-18+/20

Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2006: A reserved, subtle, well judged nose, although with a wealth of fruit hiding within. Plums, blackberries and more to be found here. Very elegant, supple, well composed, with a creamy texture. The tannins build through the palate although it maintains its elegant composition. Lovely forest fruit flavours. An elegant wine. 17.5+/20

Chateau Pontet-Canet 2006: There is a huge wealth of ripe fruit here, with a dense, savoury, macerated style. It has a sweet pastille-like intensity, but a savoury rather than sweet style, complicated by notes of tar and violets. A very serious palate follows, packed with dry and perhaps rather woody tannins, but there is plenty of fruit to match. It has austere structure, but I think it has sufficient substance too. A powerful wine which will need a lot of cellar time. 17.5-18+/20

St Julien

Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2006: Blackberry fruit on the nose, with a slightly nutty element from the oak alongside. It seems a little flashy and exuberant on entry, but then shows a leaner and more gently composed midpalate. Underneath there is dense, ripe, fairly firm structure. There are some appealing notes here, although it is outclassed by other second growths here and in Pauillac in this vintage. 16+/20

Chateau Lagrange 2006: Creamy vanilla and blackberry on the nose, with a sweet, crumbly, buttery oak element. A very supple palate, quite stylish, with a ripe character and gentle grip beneath. Very well composed, with ripe tannins and nice acidity. This has really fleshed out since my first tasting. A good sweetness to the fruit too. 16.5+/20

Chateau Langoa-Barton 2006: This wine shows creamy fruit at first, although with a little time in the glass it shows nutty oak as the dominant aroma. Very supple, well composed, with an elegant middleweight texture and a nice tannic grip. This has a very good integration of its elements. Very appealing. 16.5+/20

Chateau Léoville-Barton 2006: A dark layer of cherry fruit here, although presented in a reserved fashion, with a dense macerated richness hidden behind the oak and the aroma of dusty cabinets. Very rounded, supple entry, with lots of austere structure on the midpalate. There is a pile of grip beneath, but it is never truly austere, and it has fresh acidity. Certainly in need of some cellar time. 17.5+/20

Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2006: This has a lovely character on the nose, beautifully sweet fruit, in a very different fashion to the corresponding Barton, with a much more open, accessible style. The fruit is dense though, and on the palate it is supple, with ripe tannins showing quite dry through the midpalate, and with nice acidity too. This is good. 17+/20

Chateau Saint-Pierre 2006: This wine has a darker character than the Talbot, with sweet oak over a wealth of cherry fruit. Nice flesh on the palate, well balanced and elegant, with some ripe and sweetly-grained tannins. Rather savoury and supple fruit, with a good substance to it. A nice wine here. 16.5+/20

Chateau Talbot 2006: Creamy fruit here, presented in a fresh, open, clean and very attractive fashion. A moderate weight, rather lean although well balanced on the palate. It has a fresh style, savoury and even a little juicy in character, with an appealing character. A good effort in this vintage and it has certainly moved upwards since my first taste. 16+/20

Margaux

Chateau Dauzac 2006: An expressive nose of red fruits, cream and vanilla, with fresh new oak too. A gentle palate, quite appealing, balanced and as fresh as the nose suggested. Good fruit, ripe texture, ripe tannins. This is a lively wine with an interesting and crisp flavour. 16+/20

Chateau Desmirail 2006: Rather meaty fruit here, nutty new oak, but it does have a fresh character overall. An appealing texture on the palate, supple and fleshy, with ripe tannins nicely covered. Not so vigorous and the Dauzac, although it has a good ripe grip. Spicy-peppery acidity. This has some appeal. 16+/20

Chateau Ferrière 2006: Fresh and bright, with summer berry fruits here, presented in a clean and attractive fashion. Rather soft and low impact on entry, elegant and supple. It has fairly firm tannins evident in the midpalate, but there is a quite harmonious feel to it otherwise. Good. 15.5+/20

Chateau Giscours 2006: Dense liquorice-spiced fruit on the nose here which has real appeal, with a dense and exotic character. Appealing, fresh, tobacco-tinged fruit on the palate, with a lot of substance and good grip. Ripe tannin, fresh acidity, lots of vigour too. A good firm finish. I like this. 17+/20

Chateau Kirwan 2006: Slightly dusty cherry fruit on the nose, with a rounded and lively, vigorous style on the palate. Bright fruit with a lot of structure beneath. Grainy tannins, plenty of grip, ripe and fleshy fruit. A very firm, domineering structure, decent acidity. Overall a very firm style. 15.5-16+/20 

Chateau Lascombes 2006: A very showy wine on the nose, with lots of dense raspberry fruit and flashy oak. Certainly appealing. Fleshy, stylish, lots of substance. This has a very different style to some other wines of the appellation and is perhaps atypical. Nevertheless, it has bright fruit, good structure, good grip and when the oak integrates this will be a very good wine. 16.5+/20

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies 2006: The aromas of nutty oak and slightly meaty fruit here, with a rather diffuse fruit alongside. Soft and approachable on the palate, with gentle appeal. Soft forest fruits, gently grainy tannins beneath, this wine has some good points but it has less focus than the corresponding Rauzan-Ségla, and also a shorter finish. 15+/20

Chateau Rauzan-Ségla 2006: Dense and slightly exotic red fruits, with a gravelly feel to them, alongside the usual nutty oak. A gentle midpalate, a little supple, restrained and quite elegant. There is a firm grip behind it, with good tannins. I'm not sure that this isn't a little too understated even for me, but I think there may be some good potential here. 16-16.5+/20

Chateau du Tertre 2006: Another Margaux with plenty of character on the nose, which shows some dense fruit and savoury oak. Supple, fleshy, soft, perhaps rather diffuse, although with a lot of substance too. Appealing texture, and flavours of spiced fruit. Good acids, although not the most vigorous of wines, but it holds together fairly well. But I certainly prefer the Giscours. 15.5-16+/20

Moulis, Listrac and Haut-Médoc

Chateau Chasse-Spleen 2006: This has some nice fruit on the nose, with a rather dusty character. A dry and austere palate follows, with a firm although ripe tannic grip. It has good acidity, but moderate fruit, and is rather classically styled. A lot of structure here for the substance of the wine. I don't know how well this will come together. 14.5+/20

Chateau Poujeaux 2006: An aroma of nutty, spicy oak here, alongside some attractive, dark fruits. A gentle structure on the palate, a good depth of fruit, and an appealing if rather overt grip. The fruit has a touch of exotic spice to it. Overall it is rather dry and classically styled. 14.5+/20

Chateau Belgrave 2006: A nose of sweet, toasty oak, with a nutty edge to the fruit. Soft, fairly supple, rounded, but not a lot of vigour. There are ripe tannins beneath, giving a good grip, but very soft acidity. It has a good flavour, but for my palate it lacks the requisite definition. 13.5+/20

Chateau Cantemerle 2006: Nutty oak first, then a layer of dark and dusty fruits. Supple, fairly rich actually in comparison to some other wines here, quite full and fleshy. A firm grip underneath, with a touch of bitterness to it. It has some nice appeal though. This may improve in the cellar. 15.5+/20

Chateau Citran 2006: This has a rather inexpressive nose, with some slightly brawny fruit. The wine is soft and diffuse at the beginning, although with a broad and ripe palate. It has a fair amount of grip, good avidity, but seems to lack vivacity in the mouth. It seems all very detached and distant. It may come together with time. 14.5+/20

Chateau La Lagune 2006: Slightly roasted, rather hot fruit on the nose here. Fairly well rounded on the palate, complete, with moderately deep texture and a nice grip. There is quite a little weight, ripe tannins and overall a fairly well composed balance. There is surely some potential here. 15.5+/20

Chateau La Tour Carnet 2006: Warm and ripe fruit, soft and open, showing some toasty oak. Gently fleshy, ripe on entry, the midpalate shows a little more firmness, although with some supple fruit laid over. It has a good acid backbone too. It is quite soft overall, although those tannins are ripe, and it could firm up further in the cellar. 15.5+/20