St Estèphe

Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2005: A vibrant red-purple hue with, with a blue rim. There is a lot of toffee-oak on the nose here, with sweet, rather damsony fruit, and yet it maintains an appealing freshness. Full and grippy palate, showing plenty of ripe and rather soft tannin, although all smothered in jammy damsons. Not the finest example of Lafon Rochet, but close in quality to the 2003. Good 16-17/20

Pauillac

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral 2005: CF 72%, M 28%. A good colour. Very expressive nose, showing notes of raspberry and tar, with a floral edge. There is character and interest here. Soft, sweet, creamy toffee ice cream here. Good weight. Rather a ripe, caressing style on the palate, with supple tannins and fine acidity. This wine is certainly hanging together very nicely. Easily the best of the few HBL vintages I have tasted, this is an excellent effort that could provide some very good value. 16.5-17.5/20

Chateau Pontet-Canet 2005: CS 70%, M 25%, CF 4%, PV 1%. This has a lovely, dense colour. The nose is perfumed with aromatic floral and mineral character. A middleweight on the palate, showing good structure; there are ripe tannins in abundance, and a full character. This very well made wine does seem a little straightforward and foursquare at present, but it has fine structure and great potential for the cellar. The aromatic complexity on the nose is encouraging. Very good indeed. 16.5-17.5/20

Chateau Pichon-Baron 2005: CS 65%, M 30%, CF 5%. A fine colour, rather vibrant and appealing. Classic dark fruit nose, with bramble notes, quite expressive when worked hard in the glass but otherwise this is giving little away today. Balanced and elegant, with ripe, polished fruit over a fine structure of ripe tannins. There are hidden complexities here, which will be more readily revealed with time. I think this could be very good indeed, but it needs time. 17-18/20

St Julien

Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2005: This doesn't quite have the depth of intensity of colour that many other wines of this vintage demonstrate, although it is quite vibrant in the glass. Certainly it has plenty of appeal on the nose, with an aromatic, peppery, nutty, violet-tinged raspberry and blackberry fruit profile. This leads onto a palate that is elegant and balanced, infused with minerals and full of character. Behind it there is a very firm tannic backbone - which I missed on first tasting, the aromatics and fruit are so startling - pervading through to the finish. Needs to put on a little weight en barrique. Good length. This has an unusual character, paradoxically light and yet powerful, but should be fine, and is certainly a top effort from proprietor Patrick Maroteaux. 17-18/20

Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2005: CS 60%, M 30%, CF 5.5%, PV 3%, Malbec 1.5%. Nice colour, not the depth that some others exhibit, with a good purple-blue rim. Rather restrained nose, showing some good black fruits. Middleweight palate, rather typical of Gruaud, chunky and bordering on foursquare. The tannins appear on the back of the palate, and there is correct acidity. Everything is in place, but there is no flair or passion here. Nevertheless, a nicely assembled wine. 16-17/20

Chateau Langoa-Barton 2005: A deeply coloured wine, although with a bright crimson hue when it catches the light, and a vibrant pink rim. The nose is very expressive, with some vibrant fruit immediately apparent. Sweet fruit on the palate, carrying a lovely structure of ripe tannins, supple and attractive, but not too creamy or overblown. This is quite fine, a wine exhibiting real class and super St Julien style today. Certainly trumps its Léoville sibling on the day. Super potential here, easily superior to the 1985, my favourite vintage of Langoa (until now I think). 18-19/20

Chateau Léoville-Barton 2005: CS 75%, M 20%, CF 5%. A very, very densely coloured wine, with a vibrant pink rim. Dense and complex nose, and yet restrained, showing only some pickling spices and beetroot aromas. Supple fruit on the palate, sitting quite distant from the firm, backward tannic structure. The acidity is correct. At present this is a monolithic collection of wine components in a glass, showing little finesse or appeal, but I think it is a wine with a great future. May well warrant a score beyond the range I have predicted today. 17-18+/20

Margaux

Chateau Cantenac-Brown 2005: Never the most profound wine, the AXA team at Cantenac Brown have done a good job here. A very deep colour. Nutty, spicy black fruit nose. Straight down the line, classic style here. No frills or fanciness. Nice extract apparent on entry, moderately appealing texture, supple and ripe tannins. Nicely balanced presence on the palate. Soft, welcoming rather polished appeal. Might be a classic, good value short term drink at the right price. 16-17/20

Chateau Ferrière 2005: A vibrant hue, moderately dense, with a shocking pink-purple rim. Appealing on the nose, showing some concentrated, nutty black fruits, with nuances of blackberry crumble. Elegant entry, rather restrained midpalate, showing a lovely character. Lots of floral Margaux character here, and a fine acid structure. This has plenty of potential. The only downside is a leanness through the midpalate, although this may gain weight en barrique. 16.5-17.5/20

Chateau Giscours 2005: CS 62%, M 38%. A very deep colour here, leading out to a purple-black rim. Dense and concentrated nose, very evocative, with aromas of black fruits, white flower petals, tar and minerals. Very pure. Full, glorious palate, very complete, with a slightly soft texture. Ripe, full, firm tannins, with plenty of fat and fresh acidity. There is evident structure here, but the palate is also packed with flavour, whilst remaining quintessentially Margaux. Excellent. 17-18/20

Chateau Rauzan-Ségla 2005: A deep colour, although not so deep as to be opaque. Sweet, slightly confected nose, showing ripe fruit with little floral and mineral elements. Quite nicely balanced on the palate, ripe and a little creamy, with good rather prominent acidity and gentle, supple tannins. This offers an intriguing melange of ripeness and almost creamy opulence, alongside a nice minerality and floral freshness rather typical of Margaux. My only concern is that this impressive palate dies away very quickly on the finish. More persistence and I would be more impressed, but this certainly has potential. 16-17/20

Chateau du Tertre 2005: CS 40%, M 30%, CF 25%, PV 5%. A good, dense colour. Woodspice nose, with blackberry crumble fruit and some unresolved oak at present. Finely balanced on the palate, but showing a sweet, creamy, plump texture. A fine presence of supple tannins underpins the palate, which is rounded out with a sweet caramel finish. A rich style, acidity correct, just peeking out from beneath the fruit. Exuberant but fresh and well poised. Nice length. Very good indeed. 16.5-17.5/20

Haut-Médoc

Chateau Cantemerle 2005: CS 50%, M 40%, CF 5%, PV 5%. This wine has a vibrant hue, although there isn't the intensity displayed by many of the other wines. There is a spicy, meaty nose, showing attractive black fruits with a fresh, lifted style. Rather gentle on the palate, rounded, soft and approachable. This doesn't have the complex interest to be found elsewhere, and it has less depth than I would like. It's also a little short. But it will make very acceptable short-term drinking one day. 15-16/20

Chateau Camensac 2005: A dense colour, but very bright, with a blue-purple rim. Ripe fruit on the nose, notes of cherries and blackberries. Gentle attack on the palate. Seems a touch lean, lacking in the weight or substance of some other wines. Good grippy tannins though, melded with some sweet fruit on the finish. Good. 15.5-16.5/20

Chateau Sociando-Mallet 2005: CS 55%, M 40%, CF 5%. Dark, moderately intense wine, with a blue-purple rim. Attractive presence of dark fruits on the nose, with good depth and interest. Very soft and textured on the palate, and nicely ripe. Clearly delineated fruit, very well proportioned wine. Firm structure, balanced, and a grippy finish. This is very good wine, with more potential than you might expect. 16.5-17.5/20

Chateau La Tour Carnet 2005: CS 52%, M 48%. A very dark hue. The nose has a plethora of rip black fruits, and there is good character on the palate. Supple but fairly forceful tannins, firm acidity, with a good presence of soft and rounded fruit. Decent weight. At the right price, this could provide some good value drinking. 16-17/20

Moulis & Listrac

Chateau Chasse-Spleen 2005: A moderate depth of colour. Sweet and creamy, very primary fruit on entry, rich and expressive, with a seam of buttery crumble for good measure. Nevertheless a rather simple and straightforward palate, although it presents an appealing texture, nice extract and a ripe, charcoal-edged structure. All the necessary components are here, nicely balanced. Good potential. 16-17/20

Pessac-Léognan

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc 2005: Lots of zippy and exuberant on the nose here, really quite exotic in character, but with a lime-like freshness. Lovely fruit profile to match on the palate, a ripe tropical fruit salad. But it has great acidity too, fresh and balanced. There is a sharp note on the back of the palate, but overall this has fine character. Very good indeed. 16.5-17.5/20

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte 2005: A moderate depth of colour, but a very expressive nose here, which displays complex, meaty, blackberry fruit. Good texture and weight on the palate, carrying a lovely depth of cherry and berry fruit. Fine, quite firm, not over-extracted tannins, although there is quite a flourish of them on the finish. An appealing, silky quality here. This has real depth, and is a real success for this perhaps underrated property. 17-18/20

Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005: CS 56%, M 38%, CF 6%. A good depth of colour on inspection, quite concentrated out to the rim. The nose is simply divine, displaying great refinement, with cashew nut black fruits and a mineral freshness. And the palate doesn't disappoint; gentle texture, perfectly balanced, carrying a seam of as yet unintegrated tannins and firm, youthful acidity. Beautiful purity, rounded, well polished and elegant wine. Wonderful. 18-19/20

Chateau Pape-Clément 2005: CS 45%, M 55%. A really dense colour here, outclassing just about every other wine here. A lovely, lifted, red fruit nose. Simply divine style here, with notes of white flower petals too. This presents a caressing, rounded texture on the palate, but with an elegant style. Rather a masculine feel to the tannins, which are ripe but very firm and solid. This is very well structured, not over-extracted, complex and very fine. Lovely finish. This has just bags of potential. 18-19/20

St Emilion

Chateau Canon-La-Gaffelière 2005: M 55%, CF 35%, CS 10%. Lots of colour again here. Good fruit on the nose, with quite charismatic spicy Dundee cake Merlot character. Very full and creamy on entry, impressive, yet quite fine and balanced. The palate has a silky-supple presence, around a core of ripe, polished tannin. This rounded and complete wine has undeniable style. Excellent. 17.5-18.5/20

Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2005: A property next door to Pavie, run by Stéphane Derenoncourt and Nicolas Thienpont since 2002. M 80%, CF 15%, CS 5%. An incredibly dense and opaque wine. The nose has appeal, still showing rather obvious toffee-caramel-vanilla ice cream character from the oak, with blueberry fruit. On the palate the wine is lighter than might be expected, and seems rather out of kilter if not disjointed. There is lovely ripeness and texture, but it is on the edge of tinny over-extraction. It will appeal to many, but not to me. More freshness, vibrancy and elegance, please. 15.5-16.5/20

Chateau Pavie-Macquin 2005: M 75%, CF 25%, CS 5%. Another wine with a remarkable dense colour. Rather an appealing nose, showing some plummy Merlot fruit with traces of woodspices and sandalwood. Plump, rounded palate, carrying a pile of extract and a firm, rather hard style of tannin. The acidity is also rather lacking. Pushed just a little too far I think; again, this wine teeters on the brink of over-extraction. It will, however, appeal to many. 14.5-15.5/20

Chateau Fombrauge 2005: M 77%, CF 14%, CS 9%. A dense, purple-black wine. A paradox on the nose, a mix of sweet and sharp, like cranberry juice. Rather a middleweight on the palate, with a lovely texture, but with massive tannins which override all other characteristics. Decent acidity, but rather too over-extracted for my taste. 14.5-15.5/20

Pomerol

Chateau Gazin 2005: A densely coloured wine, with a raspberry-blue periphery. Restrained fruit on the nose, but there is no lack of style here. Notes of pepper. The palate has a lovely, soft and supple entry, leading to a well balanced midpalate. Gently creamy, but firmly structured without over-extraction, with a pile of tannin through the midpalate and finish. This has very good potential. 17-18/20

Chateau Feytit-Clinet 2005: M 95%, CF 5%. A dense, glossy, deeply coloured wine. Lots of ripe fruit here, finely polished blueberries with a sheen of oak on the nose. Quite fine on the palate, but succulent and appealing. A lovely fruit profile featuring fresh damsons. Showing an elegant texture through the midpalate despite plenty of ripeness here. Subtle tannins. Impressive. 17-18/20

Chateau Petit Village 2005: A deeply coloured wine, and a rather alcoholic, hot, porty nose to match. On the palate, highly extracted fruit and rather domineering tannins. Out of balance in my opinion. Perhaps just over-extracted. It does have some appeal though, but what the future holds I am not sure. 15-16/20

Côtes de Castillon

Chateau d'Aiguilhe 2005: CS 80%, CF 20%. This property is owned by Stephan von Neipperg of Canon la Gaffèliere. A deep, dense colour to this wine, although it is quite bright and vibrant. Rather plush, plump nose, welcoming, although there is a trace of rubber along with it. Rather brutal on the palate though; this has been pushed too far. Grating and clearly over-extracted, the palate dominated by a sledgehammer of hard tannins. No, thank you. 12.5-13.5/20

Sauternes

Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud 2005: Intense, floral, sweet, aromatic tropical fruit nose. Notes of lanolin and vanilla. Very full on the palate, with an earthy-mineral note which I have noticed in Sigalas Rabaud in previous vintages. Good depth, with fine concentration and a massive, heady sweetness. Fresh though. Good length. Very primary at present, simple and sweet, but this has piles of potential. 17-18/20

Chateau Suduiraut 2005: Pale golden hue, with a green tinge. A divine nose, steeped in honey and acacia, honeysuckle and chalky botrytis. Superb style on the palate, firm botrytis character, but with a massive wall of sweetness. Despite an acidity that is difficult to see, it seems fresh and balanced. This just needs time to integrate and open out in a more coherent, less showy manner. Excellent. 18-19/20