S de Suduiraut (Bordeaux Blanc) 2004: An appealing nose, although not at the level of the Graves of the same vintage. Rather muted but stony, nettly fruit. Nicely structured, with clean lines. Not greatly expressive, but nicely composed, but with a good balance and texture. There are some lively, candied fruits showing through the midpalate. Nice balance and texture. Good. 16+/20

Chateau Haut-Marbuzet (St Estèphe) 2004: A lovely style here on the nose, plenty of fruit. It has a toasty character, and a vibrancy and freshness. The palate is rather flashy, but fresh and vigorous as suggested by the nose. It opens out nicely through the middle, with a smokiness and an appealing grip. Finishes well. I like this. 16.5+/20

Chateau Cantenac-Brown (Margaux) 2004: A lovely nose, very open, lots of exotic fruit, quite fine. How did they manage that in this vintage? Ripe and creamy on the palate, stylish, full, with a dry grip beneath. Moderate acidity. Plump and really very flattering on the midpalate and finish, and although it doesn't have any great direction or finesse it will make very decent drinking for someone. 16/20

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 2004: A 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It seems rather closed on the nose, but is attractive enough in what it does express. Slightly plump on the palate, again some appeal, with a soft but overall nice style. Moderate acidity and some grip beneath for backbone. A good wine but lacks real presence. 14.5/20

Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2004: This is immediately expressive and exotic, and impresses from the very beginning. It has a nose full of spice and fruit, a very full style, fresh, with lovely acidity, and a nicely delineated style. Plump but with the necessary grip beneath. Ripe but tightly framed, this delivers a wonderful sensation. Very fine, and a higher score this time I note. 17.5+/20

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2004: A firm nose, with fine fruit, presented in a reserved style, already quite unmistakeable despite this wine's young age. Some good flesh on the palate, but here reserved and stylish also. Very appealing, fresh, lively, with some delicious dark fruit. Very good indeed. Another elevation in score here I see. 17.5+/20

Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2004: A lovely style, fresh and laden with fruit. Fine presence, quite reserved and classically stylish, with a firm texture, but underneath this a nice grippy backbone. It has fresh acidity and a well balanced composition. Vibrancy and vigour here. Just as good as I recall from my tasting at the estate last year. 17+/20

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A lovely nose here, a mix of fresh fruit and nutty oak. Quite flashy, still some oak showing, but not so buttery any longer, and there is a lovely style hidden beneath it, a fine grip and appropriate texture too. This is delicious, with a fine, well defined presence on the palate. It will make lovely drinking for many. 17+/20

Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A really very appealing and sensuous nose of smoky jam, deeply characterful and attractive. It has a plump, rounded, full and creamy style on the palate, with a soft grip and decent acidity. It has a lovely presence. Rather firm beneath the welcoming flesh. Not the definition of the finest wines, but may make delightful drinking for many. 16.5+/20

Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Attractive raspberry and blackberry fruit on the nose, with nuances of burnt oak hiding in the background. A ripe, open, rounded style, perhaps slightly loose knit but I suspect it may come together with time. Fleshy fruit, coating the firm tannic core very well, grippy with correct acidity. Another good wine from this vintage. Real presence and flavour here, through the finish. Very good indeed. 16.5/20

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Exotic, smoky, spicy, very alluring wine. Rather open, not fabulously concentrated, but there is a good presence created by a nice grip and freshness of fruit. Rather gentle. Certainly appealing, which again should make for very good drinking in the future. 16.5+/20

Chateau d'Aiguilhe (Côtes de Castillon) 2004: Ripe and plush fruit here. Dark, smoky, concentrated and no doubt immediately appealing. A bit jammy in style rather than just ripe, round and plump, although there is a decent grip underneath it all. Decent acidity, quite firm underneath. Simple but superficially very flattering composition. Good. 15/20

Chateau Petit Village (Pomerol) 2004: An exotic, evocative, spiced fruit nose. A little jammy on the palate, but what fruit is there is healthy, fresh, with good acidity and a nice seam of tannins too. A rather juicy, refreshing style. Fine and characterful. This is very good indeed. 17+/20

Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière (St Emilion) 2004: Expressive, exuberant, still showing some oak, but alongside lots of fruit, full and spicy and a little complex too. Well rounded, broad, nicely textured, with a good backbone of ripe tannin. Very firm still, full and grippy finish. There is lots of potential here. And it is showing much better than the disorganised effort I tasted this time last year. 17+/20

Chateau Pavie-Macquin (St Emilion) 2004: An evident ripeness here, a confiture richness, but a fine style nevertheless. Nicely polished, fine flavours, enticing, rather a lot of grip though. Very well provided with structure, but in combination with good acidity and texture too. A lot of extraction and a lot of ripeness too. Not the freshest of all these wines, but it has some vivacity. Good. 15.5/20

Clos de l'Oratoire (St Emilion) 2004: Nuts and oak in abundance here, lots of complex, spicy fruit, and a depth of character, But on the palate rather a middleweight, well defined, but with some flesh. A firm tannic base, very firm acidity, with an unremarkable finish. This has some good potential. 16+/20

Clos Fourtet (St Emilion) 2004: An exotic, cashew nut, evolving spice nose. Very attractive. Full, lithe, perhaps a touch lean here too. A fine fruit profile though. It is quite open, firm and grippy. There is a lot of structure here. This is rather good and certainly has potential. 17+/20

Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud (Sauternes) 2004: An attractive nose, delicious and fresh. The palate has a full, flashy, creamy, fat and rounded character. There is some good acidity too which lends a little freshness although overall it s a bit jammy. A big and plentiful rather than a subtle style. Overall, good. 16.5+/20