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Bordeaux 1997
The early 1990s were lean times for the vignerons of Bordeaux. Successive vintages - 1991 and 1992 in particular - were dismal failures where only a small number of acceptable wines were produced. There followed 1993, another wet year, although interspersed with dry periods, and as a consequence there were a number of drinkable wines. And then 1994, another patchy year. I have heard many wines from this vintage criticised as charmless, although others think of them as 'classic'.
Little wonder, then, that the Bordelais took full advantage of favourable conditions in 1995 and 1996, to produce some good to excellent wines. And, naturally, to jack the price up as much as the consumer would stand. During this two year period prices of some wines doubled.
The 1997 vintage started well, with an exceptionally warm Spring, and very early, although somewhat irregular and prolonged, flowering. Unfortunately this resulted in vines bearing grapes of differing maturity, and this was exacerbated by erratic Summer weather - a hot June, a cool July, and a hot and humid August. Early September saw heavy rain, but by the middle of the month the sun was shining once more. Those who picked early harvested wet, swollen, diluted grapes of variable ripeness, whereas those who delayed at least stood a chance. Nevertheless, despite the long period between flowering and harvest, there was not great concentration in any of the grapes, thanks simply to the poor weather throughout August. These were never going to be wines for long ageing. At worst, dilute and unripe. At best, attractive, approachable, for early drinking.
Unfortunately for the consumer, many vignerons continued with the price trend which had developed during the previous two vintages. Release prices for the 1997s were, in most cases, equal to or even greater than the 1996 vintage. In the en primeur feeding frenzy many bought, and they have lost out financially. There came to be a huge backlog of unsold 1997 clarets in the system, which thanks to the high prices took years to sell-through.
The notes below do not include Cantenac-Brown, which was corked. (12/2/03)
Bordeaux 1997 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in February 2003. Click
to locate
stockists:
Chateau Maucaillou (Moulis) 1997: A fairly deep colour, showing maturity. The nose is
chewy, with a burnt-toffee character. The palate is coarse, somewhat
rustic, with ripe fruit. There are appropriate tannins and correct
acidity. Short finish. Ready now. 13.5/20
Chateau
Poujeaux (Moulis) 1997: Still a good colour, not showing much age,
but has certainly dulled since last tasted a year ago. The nose has good solid
fruit, but the complex and attractive aromatics I have previously noted have
gone. Firm texture on the palate, with some fruit, still a trace of tannin and
correct acidity. Overall seems quite closed. This was a good wine which I can
only hope will come back of its shell in the next year or so - otherwise I will
regret not drinking it all in 2001. 16+?/20
Chateau Montrose (St Estèphe)
1997: A dark, mature colour. On the nose this wine is
inky, dull, fairly closed. On the palate it has a rounded texture, with
somewhat sweet fruit, and good balance. Fresh, cleansing acidity. Some
tannins and a little length. After tasting the remaining wines it
becomes apparent that this is one of the better wines of the tasting. 15.5/20
Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste
(Pauillac) 1997: Considerable maturity of colour here. There is an
elegant purity of fruit on the nose at first, which is a touch smoky.
The palate has a slightly creamy texture, but is unbalanced. A low level
of tannins is appropriate for the vintage, but there is prominent,
incongruous acidity. No length. This wine may come around with time in the cellar -
or it may fall apart. 13.5/20
Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac)
1997: Another advanced, mature colour. An initially exciting nose, with
exotic Asian spices, black beans and sweet roasted plums - but these aromas
quickly dissipate, leaving something fairly dull. Full and rounded texture on
the palate, with some fruit. Spicy tannins and low acidity. Good length. 14/20
Chateau Lynch-Moussas
(Pauillac) 1997: An attractive colour here,
garnet-red. No real evidence of age, although it has lost the purple
vibrancy of youth. The nose has some good attributes - a modicum of
fruit and a cedary element, but also an unusual sweaty, sappy, pine
needle character. There's good weight on the palate, with some fruit
apparent on entry. Nevertheless it is spoiled by a hard, charmless
texture and a bitter flavour. Acidity is on the low side, and there are
appropriate tannins. 13.5/20
Chateau Giscours (Margaux) 1997: This has a decent colour, showing some
evidence of maturity. The nose doesn't offer much in the way of fruit,
although there is a metallic aroma, and a low level of sulphur. On the
palate it has moderate weight, but prominent acidity - showing
particularly on the finish. Seems somewhat green - under ripe fruit? A
displeasing, disjointed finish. 12/20
Chateau
La Mission Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 1997: An advanced,
red-brick hue. Dense, dark fruits on the nose, but also a slightly
dirty, unclean note. A nicely balanced palate, with good fruit, and
appropriate tannins. The palate seems fairly well put together despite
the disappointing nose. 14.5+/20
Chateau Clinet
(Pomerol) 1997: The most advanced, red-brown colour of the tasting.
A hard, burnt character to the nose, with dirty iodine and stewed
broccoli nuances. The palate makes a similar impression, yet there is a
good texture, drying tannins, and maturing fruit. This seems like an
attempt at over-extraction, trying to make a big wine from a weaker
vintage. A disappointment. 12/20
