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Bordeaux 1986
The 1986 vintage followed on from a string of successes for Bordeaux, including the much lauded 1982 vintage, but also the 1985 vintage which has provided plenty of delicious, balanced wines which I have enjoyed. In fact, 1984 was the only disappointment in the preceding five years, but even here there are one or two good wines to be found.
The summer of 1986 was dry and hot, and unusually a little light rain in mid-September was welcomed because of concerns over the near-drought conditions. This brief period of precipitation prevented significant dehydration stress and permitted continuing photosynthesis and maturation of the fruit. Unfortunately, however, before the end of the month a storm hit Bordeaux, and this was much less welcome. This storm swept through Graves, Pomerol and St Emilion, with some influence on the more northerly communes. This storm was a crucial factor in determining the quality of the final wines. Those chateaux that harvested immediately after the storm brought in swollen grapes which made poor, dilute wine. Aggressive selection was necessary to produce anything of quality. Those that waited, however, reaped the benefit of several weeks of excellent weather. It is these chateaux that made the most successful wines.
What marks the 1986 vintage is tannin. The tannins originate from the skins of those well ripened grapes which were left on the vines for several weeks before harvest. Crop size was down at many of the top properties, which only serves to emphasise the tannin. In vertical tastings the 1986 usually stands out because of this particular quality. They are long-lived wines which require in many cases two decades or more of time in the cellar before they will be approachable. My only concern, expressed as these wines approach twenty years of age, is that some will not have the necessary substance to survive long enough for the tannins to integrate. (7/2/01)
Bordeaux 1986 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in February 2001. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Montrose
(St Estèphe) 1986: A good mahogany red colour. Rich
yet gravelly red fruit gives the game away - this has to
be the Montrose. Firm but elegant tannins on the palate,
with finely balanced acidity. Lovely stuff. 17.5+/20
Chateau Batailley (Pauillac) 1985:
This has a red-tawny ochre colour. Another gorgeous nose, with a
touch of power. Classic style, with gravelly notes. A full, firm rounded
texture on the palate. Nicely structured, big and sweet fruit, with a
peppery edge. Pauillac style, with some fudge and tobacco notes. 17/20
Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral
(Pauillac) 1986: Again a dark, youthful looking wine. The nose is obviously
classic Pauillac - restrained blackcurrant fruit with a firm lick of pencil
lead. The palate is stacked with tannins, but has plentiful fruit and is richly
textured. Again, the tannins are prominent on the finish. Good length. 17/20
Chateau Saint-Pierre (St Julien)
1986: A dark, purple black. Massive fruit on the nose. Tannic palate, but
stacked to the ceiling with rich fruit. A rich, sumptuous, lovely wine. Another
great effort from this little-publicised (in the UK at least) chateau. 17+/20
Chateau du Tertre
(Margaux) 1986: This wine has some tawniness to it.
It is smoky and leafy on the nose, with good blackcurrant
fruit. It smells hard, tannic and restrained. On the
palate this is confirmed, still quite hard, but there is
some rich fruit present. Gravelly, sooty, tarry notes. Tannic finish. 16.5/20
Chateau
Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Léognan) 1986: Little sign of any age from this
very dark purple wine. A delicious nose of sweet, smoky cassis fruit, with
layers of liquorice and cream. Quite big and luscious on the forepalate, with
less tannins than the other wines in this flight. Good fruit, spice and creamy
oak. Some notes of soot and tar, but otherwise a soft, generous, layered palate.
Good length. 17.5/20
Chateau Pavie (St Emilion) 1986:
Plenty of elegant fruit on the nose. The palate has sweet, rich, caramel fruit,
with tannins representative of the vintage. A touch leaner and harder than the
Pavie 1989 I have also tasted recently - but that goes with the vintage. A
sweet, caramel finish. 17.5/20
Chateau Clos Rene
(Pomerol) 1986: Beginning to show signs of age, with a good tawny
rim. This should have given a clue to the identity of this wine. On the
nose, initially it has woody fruit, with some spice, floral notes, and
hints of toffee and mint. It opens out in the glass, eventually giving
off rich blackcurrant fruit aromas. The texture is creamy (another
clue), with balanced acidity and blackcurrant fruit. I felt the tannins
were green and a touch unpleasant. They become quite evident on the
finish. 16/20
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey
(Sauternes) 1986: In
the glass it has a fairly intense golden hue. A nose of pineapples,
botrytis and marmalade. Very smoky, perhaps reflecting
use of oak. The palate has more tropical fruit,
hazelnuts, angelica and apples. Rich, sweet and balanced.
A delicious length. 18.5/20
