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Domaine de Bellivière Update, February 2009

I must confess that the first time I tasted the wines of Eric Nicolas, from Domaine de la Bellivière, I didn't quite understand what I was tasting. This was perhaps surprising, as the white wines - which dominate the portfolio - are made from Chenin Blanc, not really a novel concept in the Loire, and the range of aromas and flavours offered up by Loire Valley Chenin was hardly undiscovered territory for me. But here was something very different, the wines very distant from my Chenin preconceptions. These are not your average apple-and-straw Loire Chenins.

It may be true that, to some extent at least, terroir plays a role in this striking difference, but for my part I think it is climate that is more likely to be responsible. We are at the northern reaches of the Loire vineyard here, itself a northerly cool-climate viticultural region. In addition the appellation lies some way upstream, distancing itself from favourable, warmer maritime influences and it thus lies at the mercy of the colder continental weather systems. The microclimate suddenly becomes important in regions such as this; the aspect of a slope (south-facing is obviously best) or the presence of a nearby forest (to protect the vines from cold winds) can determine whether a vineyard succeeds or fails. In the case of the latter influence, forests also foster and maintain humidity, thus encouraging the development of botrytis, another key element in adding richness and character to the wines, just as relevant in these vineyards as it is in any site lying alongside the Layon or Aubance.

Jasnières is a purely white appellation, but the Coteaux du Loir allows for red as well, the wines based largely on Pineau d'Aunis, with Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Cot (Malbec) alongside. In the case of Domaine de Bellivière, however, the red wines are made solely from Pineau d'Aunis, the small amount of Gamay that once existed here having gone, and the Grolleau that is planted being reserved for rosé. These two betray their cool climate origins quite plainly, perhaps in a more immediately transparent fashion than the white wines.

Armed then with some prior experience of the wines, it was a delight to revisit Domaine de Bellivière at the 2009 Renaissance des Appellations tasting in Angers, just prior to the 2009 Salon des Vins de Loire. The wines tasted and described here were all from the 2007 vintage, and they brought some surprising pleasures; another biased, vintage-based preconception dashed! I still contend that the vintage was not universally favourable in Touraine (although I think it was better here than in Anjou or Saumur), but what these more northerly regions need for the fruit to ripen is a long growing season, and good weather in September and October provided this. With that in mind, it seems that the Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir appellations should be capable of good things in this particular vintage. (23/6/09)

Domaine de Bellivière, February 2009 - Tasting Notes

The wines below were tasted in Angers at the annual Renaissance tasting, just before the Salon des Vins de Loire in February 2009. All my tasting notes on the wines of Domaine de Bellivière, including those below, are collated under my Domaine de Bellivière profile. Click to locate stockists.

Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Les Rosiers 2007: A young vines cuvée. A nice, clean and lifted nose, aromatic and gently mineral. The palate displays moderate concentration, with lots of spice and acid. Gently textured, with a good freshness to it, although with a rather firm grip underneath. Good if rather subtle fruit character here, and a touch candied at the end. Overall lacks a little balance. But nice wine. 15-15.5+/20

Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Calligramme 2007: This wine comes from older vines. There is a much more interesting character on the nose here, bright and minerally, with little hints of honey and pastries. The palate is just as attractive, a little mealy and rich, although with an open, firmly expressed freshness. Clean and crisp in terms of structure, this is a very nice wine especially in a more difficult vintage. 16+/20

Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir L'Effraie 2007: A young vines cuvée which has a minerally nose, gentle, with nice fruit. Good weight on the palate, quite nicely integrated, the gently cottony texture backed up bright acidity and lots of minerality. This has a good, mouth-filling character. Really attractive style here, sappy and savoury. Remarkably good quality considering this is the young vine offering, and very good potential indeed for the future. 16.5-17+/20

Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir Rouge-Gorge 2007: This is 100% Pineau d'Aunis, and the nose belies this, showing as it does a combination of crunchy strawberry and black pepper fruit, backed up by interesting little notes of smoke. The palate is dry and lean, with a sweet wild strawberry character, and a little chalky perfume. There is an appealing freshness to it, and a good peppery finish. An attractive wine. 15.5/20

Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir Vieilles Vignes Éparses 2007: The vines for this cuvée range from 50 to 80 years of age. It has a good, fresh and aromatic nose here, fresh, stylish and precise. The palate though is soft and fleshy, well rounded, although with a fine seam of bright acidity at the core, nicely integrated into the wine. The midpalate has character and definition in spades, leading into a good, grippy, mineral finish. 16.5-17+/20