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Australia Day Tasting 2009 Part 2
Australia Day Tasting 2009
Notes from a tasting of Australian wines:
Part 1: White Wines
Part 2: Red Wines
After my notes on the white wines I continue now with my opinions on the reds from this year's annual Australia Day event. Having started out tasting old favourites, leading me to wines from Jim Barry, Chapel Hill, Wynns, Cullen and similar, I stuck with this plan here. But, as with the whites, I did manage to squeeze in some less familiar wines, specifically those from Vasse Felix, Stella Bella and Suckfizzle.
Overall it is clear that there have been significant changes in the wines coming out of Australia; I am out of touch, and this situation is perhaps inevitable. It is impossible to keep abreast of every new development in the world of wine. And even after a tasting as grand as this one, it would be ridiculous to suggest I have suddenly acquired such knowledge. To do so would take many such tastings, many years of commitment to the continent and its wines. I can, however, make a few observations based on what I have tasted.
First, the small sample of white wines assessed (in part one) were an unexpected delight. A caricature of a white Australian wine is perhaps one that is golden-ripe and fat, and dripping with new oak. But at this tasting I sensed depth, structure and minerality in many of the wines instead, with the use of oak reined in somewhat. This was seen not only with Chardonnay, but with other varieties too, and so here are two very positive moves in the right direction. Second, although Australia has long been capable of producing very good, lively Rieslings, there were more evident at this tasting than I was expecting; Pewsey Vale is an old favourite, but wines from Tamar Ridge, in Tasmania, were even more worthy of attention. Thirdly, Australian Sauvignon used to be dull and flat; now there are fabulously vibrant examples, again Tamar Ridge, but also Suckfizzle.
As for the reds, I didn't see such overt development here. Perhaps the white wines simply had some catching up to do. The best red wines were those that had purity of fruit, good acidity, balance and structure. I found some such wines, although there were few that would make we want to take home a bottle and drink it as I might have done a few years ago. That does not reflect a change in Australian wine, however, more a change in my own palate, which today craves something purer, fresher, more stony, more sappy, more savoury or pithy than these gloriously ripe, fleshy and flattering wines can offer, no matter how delicious they may be. Hence my recent visit to the Salon des Vins de Loire, which I will begin writing up as soon as is humanly possible. (5/2/09)
Australia Day Tasting 2009: Reds - Tasting Notes
Tasted in January 2009. Click
to locate stockists.
Jim Barry The Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2006: Slightly
olive-tinged black fruits here, ripe and seemingly sweet, alongside
little notes of cola and raspberry. Only a moderate concentration on the
palate, alongside a firmer, tannic midpalate. Overall this has a nice
style, although it has fewer palate-flattering characteristics than a
number of other wines here today. 15.5/20
Jim Barry The Benbournie 2002: This wine, already in its seventh
year, shows dense and evolving fruit on the nose, with a meaty, rusty,
iron-tinged character, although there is also the typical fruit
sweetness of Australia. On the palate it is all plums and perfume, sweet
and mature, with an evolving, claretty style, with nuances of white
pepper. Although it is quite delicious to drink now, there is still a
firm seam of substance beneath, and I think this may get better yet. 17.5+/20
Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2006: The Lodge Hill vineyard lies at
an altitude of 480 metres, and in this wine it has given fruit with a
creamy, spicy character, with a very classic raspberry on toast style.
Soft and creamy on the palate, smoothly finished, there is little
structure evident here. It seems very simple and thus accessible, but
for me it lacks definition. But there are good points to it. 15/20
Jim Barry The McRae Wood Shiraz 2005: Dense, sweet, creamy, white
chocolate-coated fruit, with nuances of roasted meats and toast. This is
really appealing. The palate is rich with a forward character, showing
just dense fruit at first, but on the middle there is a core of
well-balanced tannins. This has spicy grip and power, but it maintains
its delicious character through to a savoury finish. This is an
attractive wine that should cellar well. 17.5+/20
Jim Barry McRae Wood Shiraz 1999: Despite the apparent potential of
the 2005, in this vintage things don't seem to have gone so well. The
aromas are withdrawn, reticent, but what is there has a stewed pruney,
element to it. The palate also seems soft and overly mature, with very
evident structure, grip and acidity not well matched by the fruit and
substance of the wine. This wine, a Museum Release, doesn't seem in good
shape today. 14.5?/20
Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005:
In truth this is a blend of McLaren Vale and Coonawarra, not solely from
McLaren.
Some older vintages of this
cuvée were once frequent favourites of mine, especially the 1996 and
1997, but after that things seem to go off the boil a little bit at
Chapel Hill. This vintage has a nose of intense and creamy fruits, with
a similar quality on the palate, which shows fine, very well integrated,
polished tannins at the core. There is good substance, correct acidity
and overall this is a very well-made wine. A substantial effort that
demands cellaring, does this signify a return to form at Chapel Hill? 17+/20
Chapel Hill Hill The Vicar 2006: This cuvée has a very serious, defined,
savoury nose; at its core there is sweet fruit, although with a dense
and meaty character. The palate is tight and cool, with a meaty, very
slightly organic, feral tinge which isn't sufficiently prominent to
distract. Deep, structured and full of potential, this is a very
impressive wine. Usually a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, in this
vintage it is 100% McLaren Vale Shiraz, which perhaps explains that organic,
animalistic character. 17.5+/20
Hardy's Oomoo Shiraz 2006: This wine is showing slightly warm,
diffuse and rather undistinguished fruit on the nose, and this continues
on the palate where there is a wealth of dark and concentrated fruits at
the core. There is an attractive style to the flavour, although there is
a rather cola-tinged element, and plenty of grip at the core, but
overall this all seems a little unfocused. 15.5/20
Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz 2004: Lots of great Syrah spice
on the nose with gentle but peppery black fruit. This is certainly a
very attractive start. Plenty of rich fruit on the palate, although with
a rather laid-back texture, which leaves the acidity standing out a
little more than I expected. I like this wine though, although it is
difficult to predict how it will develop in the bottle. 16+?/20
Barossa Valley Estate E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 2003: Sweet and creamy
fruit on the nose, certainly quite dense, and attractive with it. A rich
and creamy style, not as huge or concentrated as I was expecting through
the midpalate, It has a peppery edge, fresh acids at the centre, and a
modestly dense substance. A fairly fresh, accessible style which should
keep well in the cellar, in the short to mid term at the very least. 16.5+/20
Peter Lehmann Futures Shiraz 2006: The style of fruit evident on the
nose here is dark, and it has a fairly reserved character. Nevertheless
there are a lot of exuberant flavours on the palate, backed up by a good
grip, substance and a little peppery bite. Overall an impressive wine,
with good structure and composition. 16.5+/20
Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2002: A big nose here, full of
intense, ripe fruit, which although not particularly hot or diffuse does
have a rather volatile edge. The palate has a the same dark, brawny,
spicy, chocolate-tinged fruit, with a round and creamy substance. A
substantial wine, with good tannins underneath the fruit. Considering it
has a few years under its belt already it still seems very youthful.
Impressive, with great potential. 17.5+/20
Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: Slightly burnt fruit on
the nose here; there are some fresher elements to it, but overall it
seems a little stretched out. As might be expected from the aromatic
character it has a very soft palate, with a diffuse, easy-going style.
It doesn't have a huge amount of concentration, and for my palate this
seems a little fruit-deficient. 14/20
Wynns Michael Shiraz 2003: The nose here starts off rather reserved,
although it does show some rather meaty maturing fruit with a clean
style. A soft palate, rather unfocused at the beginning, then seeming
more detached and distant. The tannins are softening into the wine, but
there still seems to be plenty of grip here. It all seems a little
underwhelming to me. 15.5/20
Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1997: And here we have a
complete contrast to the 2003 Michael Shiraz. This has a lovely nose,
full of exuberant, claretty, spice and pepper maturity. Again it starts
off simple and soft, but there is still some lovely character here.
Admittedly it has a somewhat fat and rounded character rather than
anything finer, but it has some attractive rusty, cherry, violet-tinged
perfume. If it had a little more definition or vigour it would be lovely. Tasted
five years ao I thought this lovely; the sheen has certainly faded since. 16/20
Stonier Pinot Noir 2007: A very pale hue. Rather incisive aromas
here, of charred fruits with elements of canned strawberry, raspberry
leaf and pickled red fruits. Soft, warm, strawberries and cream feel to
the palate. There are some interesting flavours here but overall it
doesn't have much definition from the acidity. It has a gentle rather
than vigorous style. 15.5/20
Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir 2007: This has more refined fruit on the
nose, with elements of baked strawberry and black pepper. There is a touch more
cream and depth here, although it maintains an elegance. Attractive fruit,
rounded, with good substance backed up by chalky tannins. A good style here,
which will be lovely with more bottle age. 17+/20
Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006: Not a
huge depth of colour here, and on the nose some plummy fruit, with a little
spice. It seems interesting rather than impressive. The palate is soft and
attractive, quiet gentle in style, nicely composed, dry with moderate extract.
There is some elegance here, and with time this may perhaps be very attractive
although I suspect it will always have a lighter style. 16+/20
Cullen Mangan 2006: A blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. This has a
nice depth of sweet and ripe, rather smoky fruit on the nose. The palate is
attractive, with ripe fruit, although spiced with a fresh, slightly leafy,
peppery edge. It has moderate concentration, and good grip beneath. Overall an
attractive although rather gentle style. 16.5+/20
Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007: This has rich plum fruit
character, with chocolate-coffee overtones on the nose. It is very sweet
and ripe, rounded, with good grippy tannins. Rather firm on the
palate, with exotic, smoky plum flavours. Good acidity, although it has
a somewhat green apple skin tinge to it. Rather raw and unintegrated at
the finish. Overall, nice though. 15.5+/20
Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: Coconut on the nose, with ripe
and concentrated fruit, with a dense and slightly exotic feel to it. The
palate has a soft, creamy and rounded texture, with rich and rounded
plum and mulberry fruit. There are dark elements to it, but it always
maintains an appealing sweet brightness, backed up by good grippy
tannins. Finishes more cleanly that the blend. 16+/20
Vasse Felix Heytesbury Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: A very pure nose
here, well defined, with a suggestion of creaminess to the fruit but it
also seems tight and primary. This comes through on the palate, which
starts off with very well polished fruit, before revealing grip and
tannin. Although the fruit has a good sweetness there is a
savoury-more-ish element to it as well, which I like. A very appealing wine indeed. 17+/20
Vasse Felix Shiraz 2005: Very sweet, pure, gently leathery fruit on
the nose here. which is very appealing. A rich and creamy style, ripe
and textured, but with plenty of acid at the core, and fine tannins. A
little peppery too; good Syrah spice here, I think. 16+/20
Stella Bella Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2004: There is ripeness here,
although the fruit still possesses a crunchy character on the nose. Nice
character on the palate, with plummy fruit and gentle substance all
elegantly integrated. There is a little minerality to it as well. Good wine. 16+/20
Stella Bella Shiraz 2006: Some good berry fruit on the nose here,
with a ripe and creamy style on the palate, with a good depth of fruit.
Good extract too. Plenty of attractive, forward style here. Will make
some good drinking. 16+/20
Suckfizzle Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: Intense fruit richness here,
primary and pure, but showing depth and warmth. There are perhaps hints
of early evolution. A nicely styled palate, quite a gentle character
overall, with a softer than expected substance. Moderate concentration,
gentle, and certainly some elements of evolution here in the meaty
fruit. A good wine. 16.5+/20
