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Portugal: Odd Bottles

Like its neighbour Spain, Portugal also has a fine history of wine production. Here, however, the history relates to the fortified wines of the Douro known as Port, which where Britain's replacement for Claret when relations with the French deteriorated. Now, though, the country has a growing reputation for table wine as well. Click to locate stockists:

Croft Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage Port 2002: A good colour, deep red, rather dusky in appearance, and not particularly dense or opaque. The nose shows somewhat woody fruit, with a spirity character. On the palate a flattering sweetness, with a creamy but certainly not luscious presence, leading through to a rather firm finish showing some ripe but dry tannins. There is a rather simple brown sugar note to it, which is straightforward but not displeasing, and to be critical a slightly hot, alcoholic character. A little short on concentration of flavour. Nice if rather simple Port. 15/20 (1/2/08)

Cruz Vintage Port 1989: A beautifully rich colour when poured, dark and dense, still with much that suggests youth. A very classically styled nose, abundant with the perfume of violets, along with notes of woody musk and Indian spices. And on the palate what impresses most is the texture - this is a rich, creamy, opulent wine, with plenty of underlying alcohol to give it some kick. Good balance of acidity and a bit of tannin also in evidence. Plenty of spiced fruit flavour too. Very good. (14/4/04)

Delaforce Vintage Port 1985: A terrible cork; crumbles under the screw and some Port tongs would have been very handy here. Good colour though, initially a little tawny but actually showing a bright, vibrant red under a good light. It has a lovely nose of sweet fruit and cinnamon, leather and cigars, and the palate follows up with similar finesse. There is considerable sweetness, a feature that marks the '85 Delaforce, but also a lovely rounded texture, with stylish porty blueberry fruit and a wood-smoke wedge. Great weight a concentration, but attractively balanced too. Should drink well for 10-15 years yet. 18/20 (30/9/05)

Quinta do Crasto LBV 1995: A deep red purple colour. The nose has a rich intensity of black fruit, with spices, figs and fruitcake. A seductive palate, with a smooth, almost creamy texture. Pleasant fruit, toasty oak notes, and slowly building yet never fiery alcohol. Tannins are soft, and reside in the background. It's a little hollow in the midpalate, but without doubt the best LBV I've had this year. Very good. (14/9/00)

Quinta do Crasto (Douro) 1997: Quite a pale cherry-red hue. Nose has red fruit - nothing like the aggressive 1995. On the palate confected notes mar an otherwise pleasant wine, with soft tannins and flabby acidity. This wine was clearly cooked, and I returned the others to the store for a refund. Faulty. (24/5/00)

Quinta da Fonte Do Ouro Touriga Nacional (Dão) 1997: A gorgeous, glossy purple hue. The nose, although initially closed, opens out with time. It is dominated by a combination of blueberry and blackcurrant fruit, with a load of toasty French oak. Good texture on the palate, with firm tannins, good acidity and bags of fruit. There are some interesting sweet, smoky notes. A very international style, but very good with it. Very good. (4/12/00)

Vinhos Sogrape Duque de Viseu Dão 2000: A good, youthful depth of colour. A nose, full of creamy, treacly toffee, smoke and raspberry. Simply lovely! Full, ripe and flavoursome palate. Sweet and creamy raspberry toffee, following the nose. Medium bodied with very nice grip. Short finish. For current drinking. Excellent value. 16/20 (24/9/04) Label

Madeira

Blandy's Duke of Clarence Madeira NV: Purchased four years ago in the summer of 1998. An attractive walnut-brown, fading to a golden-amber at the rim. What a nose! There are layers of aromas, led by nut and toffee scents, then touches of orange marmalade, treacle, wood and coffee-grounds. A lovely, fairly rich texture on the palate, which coats the mouth as the flavours build, an intermingling of oranges, nuts and toffee. Nicely integrated alcohol and appropriate sweetness. This relatively simple cuvée illustrates the heights that truly good Madeira can aspire to. Very good. (24/10/02)

Henriques & Henriques Malmsey, Ten Year Old NV: A hearty, walnut-brown hue. An initial trace of volatility on the nose, followed by a march of walnuts, furniture oil and toffee. Full, rich, very amply textured on the palate, with a rather masculine, forceful style. Nevertheless, the rich and creamy character is nicely balanced by fresh acidity. Plenty of good character here. Very good indeed. 16.5/20 (27/1/06)

Henriques & Henriques Dry Sercial Madeira NV: Purchased in spring of 2003. Warm, golden-brown hue. Walnut and baked earth nose. Lovely richness on the palate, with a creamy, seamless texture evident right from the moment. Lots of weight which caresses the palate, lovely impact, and really stacked with flavour. Nutty and warm, opening out to reveal woody citrus and coffee nuances, with a burnt vibrancy to the finish. Rich yet quite dry. This is very good. 16.5/20 (24/5/05)