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Loire: Odd Bottles

The Loire Valley was the first wine region of France which I visited and tasted extensively (and I returned again recently), and as such it holds a special place in my heart. Click to locate stockists:

Ampelidae Le K (VdP de la Vienne) 2003: This 100% old vine, unfined and unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon cuvée has a very dark, vibrantly ripe red-purple hue. It has fresh summer fruits on the nose, raspberry and blackberry, with a very crunchy edge. The palate has some crisp and welcoming fruit with a blackcurrant leaf character, with a reserved texture and soft, rounded edges. Very firm acidity which lends a very fresh, summery feel to the wine. There is a pleasing tannic backbone, which just shows through on the finish. I would drink this now for the crunchy fruit, although I think it would show some short-term improvement in bottle. 16.5/20 (8/5/06) Label

Ampelidae PN 1328 (VdP de la Vienne) 2003: This cuvée is named after a particular plot of vines, rather than any esoteric clone of Pinot Noir, which was my first inclination. A fine, deep colour. Quite a captivating nose, first presenting a burst of raspberry and cherry fruit, but then a clear statement that there is more here than mere fruit. There are plenty of organic components to the bouquet, a real salty, minerally, seaweedy character which is fascinating, with an earthy note behind. Pleasingly structured on the palate, and attractive leanness with plenty of minerally character. Nice weight, and lots of savoury, organic extract. Decent acidity, and good grip on the finish. Interesting stuff. 17/20 (15/5/06) Label

Marc Brédif Vouvray 2001: A clear, shimmering pale yellow-green wine. The nose is fresh and exuberant, brimming with ripe citrus fruit, swirled with aromas of stones and smoke. Similarly fresh and vibrant on the palate. It has plenty of ripe, fleshy, pithy fruit, with a stony background matching the nose. Perfect summer drinking, but with a touch of style. Excellent value for money. Very good. (8/8/03) Label

Domaine de la Charrière Jasnières Sélection de Raisins Nobles 1996: A clean, lemon gold hue. A marvellously open and intensely aromatic nose, loaded with stony mineral character, notes of crushed rocks and perfumed citrus fruit. Fresh, clean and lithe on the palate, with more mineral and citrus character. Nuances of green herbs, a little botrytis-derived honey character and crisp, piercing acidity. Pretty delicate in style, but delightful flavour. Delicious. 17.5+/20 (16/11/05)

Cognard-Taluau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Malgagnes 2001: A lovely, pure, quite homogenous and moderately deep colour. A very typical nose, showing aromas of baked raspberry, raspberry leaf and green peppercorns, a characteristic of Cabernet Franc just hovering on the edge of ripeness I think. Medium bodied, fairly reserved at first, but then coming out with a light, oily-silky texture married with a hard, minerally, charcoal background. Lovely, seamless presence through the to the finish, though, where there are plenty of stalky tannins. I like this, and I think it will improve in the short term. 16.5+/20 (27/3/06) Label

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Rèserve Personelle 1996: A mid golden hue, and a delightful nose. Aromas of honeycomb and minerals, beneath an oatmeal and biscuit layer. Some oak influence also, as well as a heady, botrytis derived edge. The botrytis comes through on the palate, which has a great and typical texture, creamy but not luscious, with well balanced acidity. There are some buttery notes, and plenty of mineral interest. Great mouthfeel. Very good. (15/2/02)

Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux 2006: From a half bottle. This wine has a surprisingly pale hue, but this precedes a light and perfumed nose showing a lot of chalky character that is bordering on soapy. On the palate there is a nice acidity, which sits with a gentle weight and an unassuming, rounded presence. In totality it is light in style and consequence, but shows a rally of flavour and interest on the finish. It may have more to give with time in the cellar, but there are other wines which I would turn to before this one. Merely quite good. 14.5/20 (1/2/08)

Gratien & Meyer Saumur NV: A pale lemon-gold hue. A massively plentiful bead on inspection, and a bright, clean nose of apple and lemons. Vibrant acidity on the palate, firm and chalky, with a firm mousse. This is very typical of the appellation and delightfully unfussy to drink. Good. 16/20 (17/8/07)

Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire NV: A pale lemon-gold hue, almost a non-existent bead, but a fresh and charming citrussy nose laden with chalky, mineral elements. A clean, dry and quite crisp palate, with refreshing apple-citrus character and just a bare hint of cream to the texture. Plenty of joyful mousse to fill the mouth. A nice style. 16+/20 (17/8/07)

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 2003: A synthetic cork noted for this vintage. Fairly pale hue for this style of Vouvray. Good nose, quite honeyed and yet fresh. Nice weight on the palate, with acidity on the low side affording a rich, luscious mouthfeel. Ripe melon and pear fruit, drizzled in honey. Not really reminiscent of the great moelleux Vouvrays that are available, but good for the price. 14.5/20 (24/5/05)

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 2002: A very pale hue, almost clear in fact. I expected something a little richer given the vintage. Plenty of fresh character on the nose though, which has pear and white peach fruit, over a stony, mineral layer, with a floral, acacia element as well. Medium sweet on the palate, and absolutely packed with ripe pear and stone fruit flavours, and a fair amount of acidity - enough to say this wine actually deserves a year or two in the cellar, and will probably drink well for more than a few more years after that. Good persistent length, with a creamy twist on the finish. Good, potentially very good. (12/12/03) Label

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 2001: An incredibly pale wine - just the slightest tinge of gold to an otherwise crystal clear hue. The nose is delightful, redolent of ripe stone fruit and freshly cut pear. and even a touch of ripe pineapple. The palate shows great typicity - superb acidity is apparent from the forepalate through to the finish. It underpins a lovely cushion of ripe, sweet white fruit. Pears, pears and more pears. A great texture also, and delicious length. Super stuff, and excellent value. Very good. (4/12/02)

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 1997: A pale, clear, lemon yellow colour. Clean and crisp on the nose, although it is packed with fresh pear and stone fruit. On the palate there is lovely weight, medium body and good sweetness. Beautifully fresh, creamy, honey, lanolin mineral, herb-edged pineapple flavours give some real pleasure. The acidity is just spine-tingling. Excellent value. Very good. (24/10/02)

Chateau Montbenault Coteau du Layon Faye-d'Anjou Clos de la Herse 1989: A moderately deep colour here, and an appealing nose of honeyed oranges with apricot botrytis. Quite rounded with notes of orange creams and minerals on the finely styled palate. Lovely structure and an apparent extract and texture which gives much pleasure, through to the finish which gives amazing length. Very good indeed. 17/20 (20/10/06)

Domaine de Montgilet Coteaux de l'Aubance 2006: The home of Vincent and Victor Lebreton. This wine has a translucent, shimmering golden hue. The nose starts off in a gentle fashion, with honey and rosewater, thyme and herbal tea, dancing a light-footed jig, before revealing deeper nuances of smoke, citrus fruit and quince. Fresh and well defined on the palate, full of acidity, light and tender, with a supple palate. That streak of thyme is quite persistent. There is a little flourish of honey at the finish, but overall a very bright and breezy style. Good. 16.5+/20

Clos de Nouys Vouvray Demi-Sec 2004: This wine has a pale straw colour, and the nose has a rather plump fruit feel to it, with aromas of juicy pears laced with a little herby note. Ripe and fleshy, rather rich palate, reflecting the presence of some residual sugar. Nicely balanced though, with peppery, rather subtle but sufficient acidity. A nice vinosity too, and although plump it has a dry, quinine-laced finish. Overall perhaps rather coarsely rustic, but this may settle with time in bottle. Drink now  and in the short term. 16/20 (25/8/06)

Château du Nozet Pouilly-Fumè 'de Ladoucette' 1998: Pale yellow-green. On the nose, lemony fruit with a steely, smoky edge characteristic of this appellation. The palate has crisp acidity, combined with a good body and weight. Lemony, citrus fruit flavours with, despite a fairly rich feel, a good steely streak. Finishes cleanly. Very good. (6/11/00)

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