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Australia: Odd Bottles

Like many of my generation, I cut my teeth on the wave of excellent Australian wines that flooded into the UK in the 1980's. With time my tastes became more varied, but the wealth of notes here show that even recently, I do still visit Australia from time to time. Click to locate stockists.

Seaview Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut 1995: Lemon-gold in colour, with a fairly fine bead. Some nice mineral notes on the nose, with subtle peach fruit and lemony aromas. The palate has a gently foaming mousse, good acidity, and a steely mineral edge to the attractive white fruit flavours. 16.5/20 (August 2000)

Wines with the generic South Australia and South Eastern Australia designations are listed here, while those of more specific origins, such as Coonawarra and Barossa Valley, follow.

Cockatoo Ridge Sparkling Black (South Australia) NV: The colour is quite inky, and the bead is therefore difficult to assess. The nose carries good berry fruit aromas, with a hint of cough candy. The palate is off dry, but with refreshing acidity, and a pleasant backbone of tannin. The mousse is very soft, and quickly fades. Blackcurrants predominate. Good finish. 16/20 (June 2000) Retaste: Deep purple hue. Lovely nose of confected fruit, blackcurrants and a touch of Shiraz pepperiness. An off dry palate absolutely packed with fruit, making this a great barbecue wine. Very drinkable. 16/20 (July 2000)

Griffith Park Brut NV: A rich golden hue in the glass, with a precise bead of small, fine bubbles. The nose has an attractive character, peach-sherbet and apple skin, with a lemon edge. Rather a crisp, sherbet-tinged spine on the palate, with a fairly soft, fleshy texture perhaps reflecting a generous dosage? Despite the nice bead it has a very soft, subtly creamy mousse, with just little bitter tinges of subtle fruit behind it all. It certainly has some grip, too. Overall though, rather straightforward. 13.5/20 (February 2010)

Hardy's Nottage Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz (South Australia) 1999: A moderately dense red purple hue. The nose has some sweet, pruny fruit, and some oak. Lots of spicy oak on the palate, with the slightly stewed, pruny fruit coming through again. Little tannin and plenty of alcohol. 13.5/20 (February 2002)

Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay (South Australia) 1999: A medium-gold hue. On the nose there is attractive tropical fruit, with some lemon freshness, and some vanillin oak. The palate, however, is swamped with oak, making it very difficult indeed to enjoy this wine. A pity. 12/20 (June 2000)

Geoff Merrill Chardonnay (South Australia) 1995: A rich, golden hue. A mixture of tropical fruit and dominant spicy oak. Rich, luscious, oily mouthfeel. Good acidity, but far too much spicy oak, dominating the flavour profile to the detriment of any fruit that may have been there. 11/20 (September 2000) Retaste: Deep golden colour. Oak dominated nose. Palate rich, bordering on unctuous, laden with spicy oak swamping the fruit. My opinion remains unchanged. 11/20 (October 2000)

Thomas Mitchell Marsanne (South East Australia) 2002: Sealed under screwcap so no worries about cork taint here. It has a moderately rich, but pure, golden hue. A similar purity may be found on the nose, which offers focused aromas of lemon curd and honeyed toast, with floral, acacia notes. The palate is very clean and fresh, with very good acidity. This wine has a combination of finesse and balance on the palate, despite being packed with flavour. 16.5/20 (January 2004) Label

Wyndham's Bin 555 Shiraz (South Australia) 1998: Deep and inky, this has a malolactic-influenced nose of soft, buttery biscuit crumble over a layer of blackberries. On the palate, sweet and somewhat confected black summer fruits sit with low acidity and soft tannins. A touch flabby, lacking depth or interest. 11/20 (August 2001)

Yellowglen Vintage (South Australia) 1995: A Champagne-style blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. A pale yellow hue, with a good bead. Delightful yeasty, bready aromas, with fresh, zippy fruit salad notes. Creamily-textured palate, with more yeastiness and white fruit. Good acidity. Elegant, one of the better New World sparklers in my opinion. 16/20 (July 2000)

Chain of Ponds Riesling 1999: Pale golden hue, fairly rich for a Riesling. Typical honeyed limes on the nose, with a hint of buttered toast. Good weight on the palate, with limey acidity, and a slightly honeyed texture. 14.5/20 (October 2000)

Peter Lehmann Riesling 2003: A typical, green-tinged hue. Laser-like, focused lime fruit on the nose, with a touch of lanolin. Nice weight, with a lime sherbet character. Crisp, tingly acidity with a floral edge. Just a touch of fatness to the mouthfeel. Clean. Decent finish. Good. Drink over the next five to eight years. 15.5/20 (October 2004)

Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 1993: Good tawny hue on top of a purple-red core. On the nose, dark chocolate, loganberries, vanillin oak and charred, smoky notes. The palate has good weight, red and black fruit flavours, chocolate and freshly ground coffee. Obvious but well integrated (although not everyone would agree) oak, and good balance. Creamy texture, good alcohol. Lovely length. 16.5/20 (July 2000)

Peter Lehmann Clancy's Red 2004: This has a rich and dark colour. The nose is brimming with fruit, raspberry, blackberry, blackcurrant and plum, with aromas of buttery oak alongside. Plenty of weight on the palate, sweetly fruited and creamily textured, but with lots of spicy, toasty, peppery oak rising in a wave at the finish. I don't sense much freshness or acidity, but there is so much fat and cream here maybe I just can't see it. Great for lovers of fruit rather than structure, and served slightly cool it was fine for a barbecue on a warm and sunny evening. But it is rather short, and overall not very satisfying, a characteristic which, paradoxically, keeps you coming back to the glass again and again. 14.5/20 (June 2008)

Peter Lehmann Clancy's Red 1997: A rich, bright red-purple colour. Super-ripe blueberry and blackberry fruit on the nose with a sheen of toasted oak. The ripe fruit really shines through on the palate, over a layer of slightly charred oak. There's a firm and nicely integrated tannic structure beneath. A peppery finish. 16.5/20 (June 2001)

Peter Lehmann Clancy's Red 1996: An intense purple hue. A forward blackcurrant nose, with smoky pepper notes. The palate is dry, with soft tannins and fresh acidity. It is packed with Cabernet blackcurrant and Shiraz pepper. Lovely texture and weight. No length of note, but delicious drinking. 16/20 (August 2000)

Peter Lehmann Semillon 1997: Typical nose for the variety, with honeycomb, toast and rich, fat lanolin aromas, somewhat marred by an excess of spicy, buttery oak. The palate is also fairly rich, with lime fruit, a rich buttery edge and attractive lemon curd flavours. There is a lack of balancing acidity which I find distracting. Oak on the finish. 13.5/20 (November 2000)

Peter Lehmann Semillon 2003: Usually a very reliable wine. Bottled under an agglomerate cork, whereas I am sure previous bottles have contained synthetic closures. No doubt this has contributed to the musty, wet-towel aroma on the nose, sitting uncomfortably alongside - and overshadowing somewhat - more typical Semillon notes of oiled lanolin and lemony fruit. Lean palate, not the usual weight or fresh balance. Medium weight, quite firm, but a short and bitter finish. Lacks concentration and impact. For all the bad press they have received, here is one wine where a synthetic would have been a good choice. No score. (December 2004)

Orlando St. Hilary Chardonnay 1997: Also a rich, golden colour. Buttery, toffee oak on the nose, with some tropical fruit. An oily mouthfeel, with fat, unctuous tropical fruit and toasty oak. Good acidity, necessary with the rich palate. Creamy finish and good length. 16/20 (September 2000)

Orlando St. Hilary Chardonnay 1996: A rich gold. The nose has obvious oak, with vanilla, fudge and cream. With aeration, charred, toasted smoky aromas develop. Fat and unctuous on the palate, with just sufficient acidity to balance it out. Mango, pineapple and melon fruit mix with the nicely integrated although prominent oak flavours. Good length. 16/20 (September 2000)

St Hallett Poacher's Blend 1998: An unusual blend of Chenin, Semillon, Riesling and Sauvignon. A nose that seems predominantly Semillon, with honey on toast, lemon and lime. Pleasant weight with tingling acidity, somewhat herbaceous. Sour on the finish, overall interesting if unimpressive. 14.5/20 (March 2000)

St Hallett Old Block Shiraz 1996: Still a great colour for nine years of age. Meaty, berry fruit on the nose. Lovely structure on the palate, showing fairly firm, masculine tannins and nice texture. Well balanced acidity, although the tannins show a little more obtrusively on the finish. Pleasant, sweet, chewy fruit with some early secondary development. Some decent length. Still on the way up - this will be better in three to five years I think. 16+/20 (February 2005)

Schrapel Family Bethany Grenache (Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale) 1999:This Grenache is a vibrant red purple hue, the bouquet packed with classic Grenache raspberry fruit, but also blackberry, smouldering charcoal and spitting bacon fat. Unsurprisingly, the palate is laden with lusciously textured fruit, pepper and spice. There is a delicious balance of acidity and alcohol, and a clean, spicy finish. Delicious stuff. 16.5/20 (January 2001) Label

Yalumba Oxford Landing Viognier Limited Release 1999: A fresh, peachy nose. Pleasant, creamy texture, but with good, tingling acidity. A touch hollow from midpalate through to the finish. As with all New World Viognier its big in alcohol, but it also has some of the classic Viognier apricot and pine nuts. Inoffensive. 14/20 (March 2001)

Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Riesling 2002: Bottled under screwcap. A nice, typical colour. Fresh lime and sherbet fruit on the nose, with a little stony, chalky minerality too. A soft, creamy, almost voluptuous, sherbet-edged palate. But there is structure too, in the shape of fresh, vibrant acidity. Brilliant lime fruit here again, with a real tangy twist in the finish. Lovely. 17/20 (August 2004)

Mitchell Sparkling Peppertree NV: A blend of Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz vintages, having undergone a secondary fermentation and then spending twelve months on the lees. Disgorged in November 2000. A deep red-black hue, with good foaming bead which quickly settles. Aromas of black pepper and toasty black fruits on the nose. A gentle but persistent mousse on the palate, with black berry fruits and a chocolate and pepper edge. 16/20 (March 2002)

Wakefield Riesling 2001: Great fruit on the nose, richly styled, with some floral elements and a streak of honey on warm toast. Full bodied on the palate, cream-edged fruit and some spice. Good finish. 15.5/20 (October 2002)

Wakefield Shiraz 1998: A lovely purple hue in the glass, with a promising nose of blackberry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit, developing complex Syrah (Shiraz) aromas of grilled sausages and charcoal. Good tannins on the palate, slightly over enthusiastic acidification but in view of this wines other good points I can forgive this. Lovely black fruit, with a minty ripeness, some smoky oak flavours and hints of black pepper. Good weight, leading into a good finish and considerable length. 15.5/20 (August 2000)

Hardy's Cabernet Sauvignon 1995: A deep and intense colour. Concentrated cassis on the nose, with nuances of coffee, cloves and spice. Medium to full bodied, with soft tannins. Correct acidity. Black fruit, pepper and oak flavours. Delightfully fresh finish, and impressive length. The fruit faded over the course of the evening, but overall a very good wine. 17+/20 (June 2000) Retaste: Wow - five years since I last opened a bottle of this; I recall I opened the first on a Sunday evening with dinner. No loss of intensity over the years, but the hue has adopted a more mature, less glossy appearance. Great nose, matured to a meaty-berry Cabernet fruit, with an animalistic overlay. Rich, sweet, iron-edged blackcurrant fruit, but with a firm although fading grippy backbone. Showing good maturity, just approaching a pointe now, but will drink well for years yet. Great, fresh, crushed berry acidity. The palate swirls with extract and body. Sweet length. This is lovely. 18/20 (April 2005)

Katnook Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 1992: A deep garnet red, with some signs of evolving maturity at the centre, leading out to the faintest of orange tinges at the rim. An impressive, powerful nose, thick with blackcurrant, mulberry and plum fruit, with classic smoky, cigar box Cabernet aromas, and later perfumed, violets. Full bodied and richly textured on the palate, which is packed with sweet but maturing fruit, and plenty of extract. Firm, ripe tannins and correct acidity provide some balance. A very strong, sweet yet masculine finish, and incredible length. 18/20 (April 2003)

Lindemans Botrytis Riesling 1997: A golden colour, and a cracking Botrytis nose with quince jelly, dried apricots, crunchy dessert grape freshness and a note of sweet, alcoholic marmalade. It has good weight and a rich texture. Apricot and orange flavours with barely sufficient green apple acidity, which admittedly does seem more prominent when drunk with food. Finishes nicely. 15.5/20 (December 2000)

Jamieson's Run Red 1995: A good looking, dense red/purple colour. Thin oily legs. The nose surpasses my expectations. Masses of ripe blueberry, ribena blackcurrant and summer fruits. Smoky aromas provide some suggestion of elegance. The palate is medium-full bodied, with ripe summer fruits, led by blackcurrant. Soft but evident tannins and balanced acidity. Finishes with a burst of fruit. Some length. 16.5/20 (September 2000)

Peter Lehmann Riesling 1999: A pale lemon-green. Lemon curd and limes on the nose. A fat, richly textured palate, with lemon and lime fruit. Bitter twist on the finish. 14.5/20 (March 2001)

Bleasdale Sparkling Shiraz 1999: The palate has a deep, vibrant purple hue, and the foam that forms as you pour has a similar intensity of colour. Aromas of fat, ripe blueberries and blackcurrants fill the nose, with some black pepper and charcoal nuances. The palate has a persistent mousse, a good backbone of acidity, and bags of berry fruit. A medium bodied mouthfeel and fairly elegant texture. Most of all, though, it's great fun. 16/20 (December 2000)

Bleasdale Mulberry Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 1997: A deep, opaque purple wine. Rich blackcurrant and blueberry fruit on the nose, some toasty oak and a clean lemon-orange streak. Similar fruit profile on the palate, moderate extraction, some cigar box notes. Tannins soft and integrated, acidity balanced. Clean fruit on the finish. 15.5/20 (April 2001)

Bleasdale Mulberry Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 1996: A dark purple hue. A real fruit bomb nose, with some vanillin (American) oak and intense cassis aromas. Even with several hours aeration, this persists, with just a little coffee and spice complexity. Palate is well rounded but seems over acidified. Big fruit but subtle tannins here. 15.5/20 (July 2000)

Saltram Stonyfell Metala Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 1997: This wine really holds your attention, with nice toasty oak on the nose, together with liquorice, plums, berry fruits, pepper and spice. The palate has a lovely texture, but most importantly it is beautifully balanced. Good tannic backbone, spot-on acidity and bags of fruit with some well integrated oak. A very clean finish. Lovely stuff. 16.5/20 (February 2001) Retaste: Deep purple hue. Intense woody, vanilla, coconut and fried butter aromas indicative of heavy oak influence, which would not be to everyone's liking. Plenty of spicy, blackberry fruit on the palate, with lots of oak. Lovely creamy texture though, which together with just moderate acidity makes this easy to drink. 16.5/20 (April 2002)

Temple Bruer Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 1998: A blend of 86% Cabernet and 14% Petit Verdot (a minor Bordeaux grape, little used today). A very deep inky-purple hue. The nose has rich, blackcurrant fruit-gum aromas, and a hint of pepper and spice, but little else. On the palate it has luscious blackcurrant fruit, pleasant tannins and marked fruit acids. Finishes without any surprises. This is pleasant glugging stuff, but somewhat one-dimensional, although this may have improved with some bottle age. 16/20 (August 2000)

Temple Bruer Merlot Reserve 1996: Inky-black colour promises something. Very forward, minty ripe fruit, followed by liquorice, blackcurrant and oak complexity. Medium to full bodied, it is rich but has a good tannic backbone, balancing acidity, and lovely layers of black fruit. Finishes with good length. A delicious, fruit orientated New World style. 17/20 (June 2000) Retaste: A deep red purple colour, with an enticing nose. The exuberant mintiness present when last tasted has settled, leaving enticing aromas of black cherry, cigar smoke and a touch of eucalyptus, with some oak as well. The palate is quite fine, with ripe, firm tannins and good acidity providing a well balanced wonderful mouthfeel. Black cherry flavours are edged with cedar and cigar smoke. Significant development here, this wine was dominated by minty fruit last time, but now has a more elegant flavour profile and texture. 17/20 (March 2002)

Maglieri Shiraz 1998: Deep purple colour. Nose has high-toned, black fruit notes. The palate seems over acidified, with firm tannins. Some black fruit. Acidity shows through particularly on the end-palate and finish. Not up to the standard of the lovely '94, '95 or '96. 12/20 (July 2000)

Maglieri Shiraz 1997: Pale red purple colour. Cooked fruit and apple peel on the nose. Palate has a light body, moderate fruit, and an unattractive green, vegetal streak. 12/20 (January 2001)

Maglieri Shiraz 1996: This has a deep, rich colour. A nose of striking black fruit, with liquorice, tar, spice, leather and chocolate complexity. Palate has well integrated, smoky oak, with more spice and chocolate. Tannins are firm but smooth, with balancing acidity, and a lovely mouthfeel. Finishes with some length. Delicious stuff. 17/20 (June 2000) Retasted: A good while since I opened one of these. It's still a very dark, dense hue, with little sign of maturity. Pure, clean nose. Perfumed tar and rose-petal smoke, charcoal, brambly raspberries on toast. This is classic and quite stylish. A good entry, creamy with supple tannins and sweet, exuberant black forest fruits edged with orange-peel. Stone and smoke notes. Moderate acidity. Delicious. Drink over the next ten years. 17+/20 (September 2004)

Pirramimma Late Harvest Riesling 1998: A lemon gold hue. Delicious honey and baked apples on the nose, preceding a rich, honeyed palate, with honeydew melons and good appley acidity. Superb texture. Lovely stuff. 16.5/20 (January 2001)

Chateau Reynella Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1996: A light sediment. Still a densely coloured wine, but showing maturity now. Old furniture on the nose, and still showing lots of cigar-edged black fruits. Lovely palate, still with a rich, creamy character reflecting the plushness of fruit this wine displayed in its youth, providing a seamless coat for correct acidity and a gentle layer of ripe tannins which are well integrated and give a really nice backbone. Gorgeous extract. A touch roasted on the finish, with mature dark fruits. Nice length. This is very good. Drink now and over the next five years. 17.5/20 (June 2005)

Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz 1996: A dense, rich, inky black colour, with impressive legs. Lovely complexities on the nose - obvious rich bramble fruit, but with charred wood, smoke, and nuances of cream and fine dark chocolate. The palate lives up to expectations. Luscious and mouth filling, but with a superb streak of tannin and appropriate acidity to give it balance. Clotted cream, bramble fruit, black pepper and spice. More black fruits through onto the finish, and tremendous length. This is fantastic stuff. 17.5+/20 (June 2000) Retaste: A deep red hue. Brawny, tarry nose, with nuances of honey-roast meat and black pepper. Rich, dense, concentrated on entry. Piles of extract still apparent, with some tannin showing through the midpalate where the wine opens up to reveal brawny, dark toffee, pepper, tobacco and burnt raspberry jam flavour. This is a big, savoury wine, creamy, but with no hint of sweetness or flattery. And the acidity is lacking; a deficiency in poise and freshness is the result. But there are many positive points. 15.5/20 (February 2005) Retaste: Deep, maturing hue. Lovely nose, still showing the sweet blackcurrant fruit-gum notes of youth, but also some of the mature, roasted, gamey, meaty notes that come with bottle age. Lovely ripe, rounded, creamy texture on entry, with a finely polished mouthfeel, backed up by tangible extract, softly ripe tannins and reasonably firm acids which show a little prominently at first but quickly settle down. This bottle is showing better than one I had just a few months ago. The Foundation cuvée is one that usually shown very impressive in its youth, but not so later; other vintages don't seem to have aged gracefully, but the 1996 is still going strong. Very good. 17/20 (June 2005)

Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz 1998: An amazing, dense purple-black colour. On the nose there is a massive depth of spicy fruit, combined with bags of spicy, sweet and vanillin American oak. No surprises on the palate then, with a sweet and rich texture immediately apparent on entry, carrying punnets of crushed, super-ripe blackberry and bramble spicy fruit. There's plenty of buttery and spicy oak behind this great extract of fruit. The wine doesn't fade, developing an opulent, hedonistic richness through the midpalate. The tannins are not troublesome, providing a touch of dryness to the finish but otherwise sitting quite well with the rich fruit and low acidity. Enjoyable length, with the tannins dominating a little more. Amazing stuff. 17+/20 (December 2001)

Hardy's Chardonnay 1996: My last bottle of this. A rich golden hue. An intense, honeyed, crispy toast, Lyle's Golden syrup and gingerbread nose. Obvious bottle development since I last tasted it. The palate has a rich mouthfeel, with an almost unctuous consistency, and good fruit. Acidity struggles a little with all this syrupy richness. Slightly bitter twang to the oak. It has good length though. 15.5/20 (September 2000)

Haselgrove Bentwing Shiraz 1999: A vibrant garnet colour, with plentiful aromas of chocolate, coffee, mulberry and blackberry. Despite the rich bouquet it has a fairly elegant texture on the palate, with a moderate weight and soft berry fruits. There are some drying, chalky tannins that show on the finish, and these perhaps need a little more time to integrate fully. Although this is a wine that will keep and may improve for a year or two, I can see no reason why it shouldn't be purchased for current drinking. 16+/20 (October 2001) Label

As with South Australia, wines with the generic Victoria designation are listed first, followed by those with more specific origins.

Best's Great Western Riesling 2002: Bottled under screwcap. Correct colour. Pleasing lime fruit nose, with a sherbetty, wet-stone sideline. Clean fruit and a full, almost oily, texture on the palate. Sharp lime edge behind a full, fruity weight. Nice sharp finish with a flourish of leafy green fruit. Quite grippy here, and a little length. Good, but would probably improve with some cellar time. 14+/20 (October 2004)

Deakin Estate Shiraz 1999: A ripe purple hue in the glass, this wine has a nose of rich ripe fruit, with some smoky Shiraz elements, and some vanillin oak. The palate, somewhat surprisingly, maintains an elegant medium bodied stance, with attractive black fruit, smoky charcoal and well integrated oak. Lovely balance. Finishes with a fruity note. Very well made wine, extremely easy to drink, and a bargain for quaffing. 16/20 (June 2000)

Mitchelton Print Shiraz 1995: A rich, purple-black hue. Initially dominated by spicy, toasty oak, the nose blossoms over the course of several hours, to give out more blackberry and blueberry aromas. A big, high extract palate, packed with fruit and oak. Decent acidity, and although it has balance, it all seems a little too overdone for me. I suspect, however, havin tasted more mature vintages, that it will settle and integrate with time. 17+/20 (December 2000)

Mount Langhi Ghiran Shiraz 1997: A dense red-purple hue. Still showing some youth. A captivating perfume immediately apparent on pulling the cork. Meaty-raspberry notes, with saddle leather, liquorice and cough-stick candy nuances. This is aromatic and very interesting. Medium bodied, with firm acidity and fine balance. Minerallyvoury, full, with a lovely presence on the palate. A little extract. Very correct, ripe tannins. I had heard that this was quite mature but I think it has not quite hit peak. But drinking now and over the next four years. 17/20 (February 2005)

Redbank Winery Sally's Paddock 1997: Deep ruby purple, with very slowly formed oily legs. On the nose delicious toasty oak, with accompanying smoky scents reflecting toasting. Oodles of summer fruits, blackcurrants and blackberries. The forepalate has some redcurrants. Just on the light side of medium bodied, with soft, dusty tannins. Correct acidity. Plummy, summer fruit flavours, and toasty oak again. Smooth finish and good length. 18/20 (September 2000)

Château Tahbilk Marsanne 1997: A pale yellow hue, with an occasional oily leg. The nose consists of rich fruit salad in syrup, fruit chews and boiled sweets. It is backed up with fresh lemon and lime aromas suggestive of some acidity. The palate is fresh, developing nice weight. Creamy midpalate. Fruit salad, with all the acidity you were expecting. There is a rich finish, with lingering apricots and pine kernels. A very individual wine. 16/20 (September 2000) Retaste: A vibrant golden hue. It takes a little time to open up, but when it does it offers aromas of honeyed pear and apricot, with lemon curd and buttery oak. Creamy texture on the palate, with bitingly fresh acidity, and pear, lemon and honey flavours. Delicious stuff, inexpensive and easy to drink. 16.5/20 (July 2002)

Brown Brothers Liqueur Muscat NV: A fairly typical deep golden-brown colour. Classic nose, full of the rich aromas of Christmas pudding. The palate bears a lovely, rich and almost oily texture, with chocolate, hazelnut and toffee flavours. It still has good acidity and some spicy power, both of which may settle with time, but it's drinking very well at present. 16.5/20 (January 2002)

Brown Brothers Late Harvest Orange Muscat & Flora 2000: A delicate nose of orange peel, with just a hint of marmalade and honey richness. Most striking is the delicious balance that exists, with a medium bodied, rich but not luscious texture balanced with firm, totally correct acidity. Lovely flavours, oranges with a floral twist, with a slightly more aggressive hint of botrytis at the finish. As usual a very approachable wine. 15.5/20 (August 2001)

Brown Brothers Late Harvest Orange Muscat & Flora 1999: Despite only a moderate pale-yellow colour, this wine has a delicious, fresh bouquet of honey, orange blossom and orange peel. The texture is light with a creamy edge. More floral elements are mixed in with just a light, honeyed richness and a gentle but sufficient citrus acidity. Clean finish, and a good length. Excellent value for money. 15.5/20 (May 2001)

Chambers Rosewood Muscat NV: A rich, caramel hue with a tinge of red. Toffee, raisins and nuts on the nose. A full bodied, rich, unctuously textured, velvety palate, with more toffee, dried fruit, wood and nut flavours. Finishes with a remarkable length. 16.5/20 (June 2001)

Mick Morris Liqueur Muscat NV: Purchased August 2004. From a 50 cl bottle. Beautiful amber-brown colour with moderate density. A great nose, full of walnuts, toffee and black treacle, but also with the complex depth that belies the presence of older vintages in the blend. A stunningly unctuous palate, rich and mouth-coating. There's good acidity, and plenty of flavour, including notes of smoke and raisins. Unsurprisingly a good, rich length too. 17/20 (August 2004)

Seppelt Show Muscat DP 63 NV: This is the 1998 bottling. In the glass this Muscat has an intense walnut and treacle colour. The nose captivates with its powerful hazelnut and toffee aromas. Unsurprisingly, the palate is rich and luscious, but with a good streak of the necessary balancing acidity. Nutty, caramel and toffee flavours predominate, and there is a lovely, warming finish. This wine impresses with intensity of flavour rather than complexity, but it's still a delight. 17/20 (December 2000)

Stanton & Killeen Rutherglen Muscat NV: The wine has a warm, caramel-brown colour. The nose has a wonderful array of rich aromas - toffee, nuts, raisins, caramel and orange marmalade. The palate, as expected, is full bodied with warm, alcoholic mouth-filling flavours. There are hints of chocolate, cream, raisins and even strawberries. The palate is a little short on balancing acidity, with all those sweet flavours and rich alcohol left to run riot. Unsurprisingly, it has lovely length. This was a good example, although a little lighter in style than many other Australian Muscats. 16/20 (June 2000)

Domaine Chandon Green Point Brut (Yarra Valley) 1995: A rich golden colour, and an exquisitely fine bead raises my expectations. The wine lives up to its appearance, with a good, lemony citrus nose with smoky, oily complexities. Superbly fresh acidity and a soft mousse, with an oyster and cream richness that builds towards the endpalate. Finishes with smoky, toasty notes, leading into a nice length. 16.5/20 (November 2000)

Tarrawarra Chardonnay (Yarra Valley) 1997: At first, the mealy oak and restrained fruit are quite promising. The wine develops richer characteristics in the glass, however, the oak taking on a more prominent, buttery, vanillin role. On the palate the almost oily texture and rich, luscious, buttery Chardonnay fruit make it plain this is New World. There is a slightly astringent note to the oak, but fresh acidity helps. Actually very pleasant drinking, and although the oak has been applied in a Burgundian style, the warm climate character to the fruit tells me this is not Burgundy. A good wine in it's own right though. 15.5/20 (May 2001)

Tarrawarra Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley) 1998: Over the past year, however, I've found some New World examples which, although plainly not Burgundy, have succeeded in making a successful Pinot Noir. This is one such wine, from a boutique Australian winery. This is a really deeply coloured wine, and this is reflected in the very expressive nose. There are aromas of coffee, smoke, charcoal and new oak, with a deep layer of red cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit which comes through on the palate. Here the fruit has a soft, creamy yet peppery edge, with slightly chalky but pleasing tannins and lovely acidity. Good finish, with just a slight dryness from the tannins coming through. This is a typical IWC winner - big, richly flavoured and alcoholic. 16.5/20 (February 2002)

Capel Vale Riesling 2000: Fresh and appealing aromas, dominated by plenty of aromatic tropical fruit, with apples and cinnamon. Similarly fresh, crisp and laden with lime and sharp tropical fruit on the palate, with lovely weight and a full, rich and creamy texture. This sits well with cracking, firm yet balanced acidity. One of the best Australian Rieslings I ever recall tasting. A brilliant food wine, packed with flavour and great acidity. 16.5/20 (May 2002) Label

Somerset Hill Unwooded Chardonnay (Great Southern) 2001: A moderate, golden hue. Tropical fruit salad nose, full of melons, peaches, pears and other stone fruit. Just a touch of sweet, fat residual sugar on the palate, which has tropical fruit and fresh, correct acidity. Not a hint of oak anywhere - try this wine to see what New World Chardonnay really tastes like. 16.5/20 (March 2003)

Wines with the generic New South Wales designation are listed first, followed by wines from more specific regions.

Miranda Pioneers Raisined Muscat 2001: Like the 2000 vintage, the 2001 is another fairly pale golden wine which gives no hint to the sweet flavours that follow. On the nose there are plenty of aromas of quince, marmalade and raisined fruit. Wonderful sweetness on the palate, buoyed up with plenty of ripe tropical fruits and, most importantly, impressively fresh and zippy acidity. Although simple, this wine has the appealing combination of good, clean flavours with incredible value for money. 16.5/20 (November 2001)

Miranda Pioneers Raisined Muscat 2000: Despite a pale yellow appearance, this Australian example has a luscious honeyed, raisined nose. The palate is rich and well-fruited, with a tingling acidity reminiscent of Spangles™, a confectionery of times gone by which only UK visitors may recall. Apple and apricot flavours, and a good, rich texture. An easy drinking sweetie. 15.5/20 (January 2001) Label

Miranda Golden Botrytis 1995: Intense orange hue. Good botrytis character on the nose, with some quince jelly and marmalade aromas. Volatile acidity a little too obvious. Furniture polish scent may put some off. Lacks acidity on the palate, but more lovely marmalade characteristics. Superb length. 15.5/20 (July 2000)

McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 1995: A nose of buttered toast. On the palate the usual enjoyable Semillon paradox of rich honey on toast flavours but without any honey richness, rather a fine prickling acidity and gentle alcohol. Hints of tropical fruits. Refreshing and easy to drink, dominated at this age by primary flavours. Clean finish. Good, but not the best vintage if you fancy putting some of these away for a decade or two. 16/20 (January 2001)

Rothbury Estate Shiraz 1998: An earthy tinge to the colour of this wine, together with a combination of sweaty leather, rubber and sweet fruit mark this wine as Hunter Valley. Sweet, ripe, raspberry fruit on the palate, with dry but ripe tannins which remain prominent through to the finish. There is an incongruous, tingling, green apple acidity which suggests acidification to me. Nevertheless, the clarity of fruit makes this easy to drink. 14.5/20 (August 2001)

Tyrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1992: A rich, burnished golden colour. The nose, when the wine is held still, gives off gentle aromas of orange blossom, with more powerful orange peel, thick cut orange marmalade, honey and toast. A little aeration produces rich, oatmealy notes of bottle maturation. The palate has more honey on toast and a balanced mouthfeel, with positively tingling acidity towards the finish. Tremendous length. Delightful stuff, just coming into its drinking window. A keeper, it should perform well for another 15-20 years. 17+/20 (February 2001)

Cranswick Estate Botrytis Semillon 2002: Rich, deep, orange-golden hue. At first rather sweet and candied, but it develops intense, characteristic orange-honey-apricot notes of botrytis. Fresh, with lovely rot on entry. Rich, a little oily, nicely balanced, grippy, with powerful savoury notes. Just needs time in the glass to open out. Good. 16/20 (February 2005)

Cranswick Estate Botrytis Semillon 1999: A burnished amber-orange, with heaps of botrytis, apricot and quince on the nose. Quite richly flavoured, with more luscious quince and botrytis character on the palate, with fairly low acidity and a good texture. Some length. 15.5/20 (October 2001)

Cranswick Estate Zirilli Vineyard Botrytis Semillon 1996: An amber gold colour. Apples, quince jelly and marmalade botrytis notes on the nose. It has a rich, honeyed, beautifully textured palate, good fruit and sufficient acidity. This texture pervades right through to the finish, which has an attractive smoky quality. This is lovely. 17/20 (October 2000)

Cranswick Estate Nine Pines Vineyard Botrytis Semillon 1996: A deep, burnished amber-gold colour. The nose is loaded with quince, apricot and marmalade botrytis aromas. Unlike the 1995, also recently tasted, this wine has a much better balance, with the fat, rich, hedonistic texture carried by sufficient acidity. Wonderful quince and apricot flavours. Finishes cleanly. Very enjoyable. 16/20 (July 2001)

Cranswick Estate Nine Pines Vineyard Botrytis Semillon 1995: A remarkably deep, intense, burnished gold colour, and a heavy botrytis influence on the nose here. Aromas of orange marmalade and quince fill the air. On the palate a rich and unctuous texture, with a botrytis, orange pastille and marmalade sweetness. Acidity takes a back seat but it is there. A long, lingering finish. Overall seems coarsely put together, but good value and enjoyable nevertheless. 15.5/20 (June 2001)

Pirie Vintage 1995: A pleasing mid-gold colour on the eye, with a moderately sized bead. Attractive aromas of freshly baked bread and lemon sherbet, with a smoky background. Good, clean acidity on the palate, with a soft but persistent mousse, evident through to the finish. Bread, yeast, citrus fruit and peach flavours, with the yeast showing up particularly on the finish. 16.5/20 (November 2000)

Tamar Ridge Riesling 2002: Tamar Ridge is a Tasmanian winery producing a range of cool climate wines. This one has a lovely nose, initially offering up aromas of creamy tropical fruits such as pineapple and mango, followed up by a butter on toast richness. On the palate this flavour profile is accompanied by a delicious lemony acidity. Rounded and full of flavour, leading into a clean finish. 16.5/20 (February 2004) Label