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Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta
Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta was founded by Luciano Francisco Ramon de
Murrieta, a man born in Peru, of all places, in 1822. His life in South America
was short-lived, however, as in 1824 the battle of Ayacucho saw Peru secure its
independence from the Spaniards, and the Murrieta family left for a new life in
England. Here Luciano spent a lot of time with his uncle, General Rivero de
Murrieta, who worked in the city as a banker, and reputedly had spent much of
his life acquainting himself with the fine wines of the world. With his coming
of age, however, Luciano enlisted in the Spanish armed forces, although he
continued to live his life between Spain and London. As a consequence Luciano
was conscious not only of a wine-thirsty market in London, but also of the huge
quantity and diversity of wines that Spain potentially had to offer; when
Luciano returned to Spain for good in 1844, the die was cast. Luciano had
decided to make great wine, and to export it to discerning customers worldwide.
In 1848 he travelled to Bordeaux, to study; four years later he had returned to Rioja and was making wine. Another four years saw the first serious commercial exploit, as Murrieta waved goodbye to 100 barrels of Rioja, en route for Mexico and Cuba. Although one half of the cargo was lost, what reached the shore was a resounding success. Luciano continued in wine, and eventually, in 1878, he purchased his own estate at Ygay, not far from Logroño. His venture was a resounding success, sufficiently so for Queen Isabel II, who had enticed her loyal servant back to Spain following her coronation in 1844, to confer on him the title of Marquesado de Murrieta; and so the estate of Marqués de Murrieta was born.
Luciano died a bachelor in 1911, at the venerable age of 89, and the estate passed to his nephew, Julián de Olivares, who held tenure until his death in 1977. The estate was then sold to Vicente Cebrián Sagarriga, Count of Creixell. Tragically, death once again stole the estate of its proprietor, and Vicente's widow and children took the helm. It is Vicente's son, Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga, with his sister Cristina, that now drives the estate forward, together with their whirlwind technical director Maria Vargas.
Marqués de Murrieta: The Vines and the Wines
They now oversee over 300 hectares of vineyards located close to Logroño, near the border between Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja. Naturally the vines are dominated by Tempranillo, accounting for 75% of the vineyard, with Mazuelo, Garnacha and Graziano largely making up the balance, with lesser quantities of white varieties, including Viura, Malvasia and, unusually, Garnacha Blanca. Many of the vineyards, including the plots that give rise to the modern-day super-cuvée Dalmau, lie on the hills behind the winery looking down onto Logroño, and from my inspection of them when I visited the estate in the summer of 2007 they appear to include a number of ungrafted vines. The fruit is harvested by hand and then transported down to the impressive facilities at the Marqués de Murrieta estate. Here practices are largely traditional; the white wines are pressed and then fermented using temperature control, at 18ºC. The red wines are fermented at 30ºC, and unusually they are subject to mechanical pigeage (submerging the cap of skins, pips and other solids within the fermenting juice) using a machine of French design. The resulting wine is pressed in elderly cage presses, with up to 20% of the press wine blended in. The wines see mostly American oak, with less than 1% of the barrels sourced from France. Only a tiny proportion are replaced each year, so the wines are not significantly influenced by the use of new wood.
Marqués
de Murrieta produces a range of wines, both red and white. Heading up the
collection is a wine destined for long term cellaring, the Castillo Ygay Gran
Reserva Especial, which is probably one of the most well-known wines
produced here, if not in the whole of Rioja. It is a traditional Tempranillo
dominated blend, which following on from six months in vat will often see in
excess of 36 months in American oak before bottling. There is also a Reserva
Especial, a similar blend also subject to prolonged wood ageing; both wines
are only made in the best vintages, otherwise Marqués de Murrieta will produce a
range of standard Gran Reservas and Reservas. There are also jóvene red
and white wines, under the Colección 2100 label. The white is 90% Viura
with 5% each Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca, whereas the red is 75% Tempranillo,
the balance Mazuelo, then Garnacha, then a little Graciano. Overall this bodega
is a reliable source of classic, long-ageing reds, and the Castillo Ygay Gran
Reserva certainly has a place in my cellar; the 1989 has been excellent, whereas
the 1995, representing one of the finer vintages of the last two decades,
demonstrates potential at present. They are both, however, suitable for
cellaring for much longer periods of time. Marqués de Murrieta also has a
reputation as a rare source of reliable white Rioja, including a white
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva; in recent years there has also been the
Capellania Rioja Reserva Blanco, indicating the vineyard of origin, a wine I
have tasted several times but, despite this, until I visited the Marqués de
Murrieta estate I don't seem to have made a permanent record of my
impressions. Around the same time as this new designation, essentially a
renaming of the pre-existing white Rioja Reserva, the range saw a genuinely new
introduction. Dalmau is a Rioja Reserva, joining the fray in the 1995
vintage, which swells the ranks of more modern, internationally styled wines
produced by many of the top Rioja bodegas. This is distinguished from the
pre-existing portfolio not only by the inclusion of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon in
the blend, alongside the 85% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, but also by the use of
small French barriques, in which the wine is aged for a period of
typically 19 months. The result is a different style which, although certainly
of merit, may not appeal to those who appreciate the more traditional style of
Rioja.
Looking beyond matters of style, however, Marques de Murrieta is
unquestionably one of the leading bodegas in Rioja; Vicente not only turns out
an admirable selection of wines, but also one of the Rioja benchmarks, the
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. For this reason, above any other, this is
an estate that all Rioja-curious wine drinkers should investigate. The white
Rioja, Capellania, is also a wine of merit, For those that find the style not to
their taste, fear not; the wines of Pazo de Barrantes - under the same
ownership - are also well worth seeking out. I include notes on these wines,
alongside those for Murrieta, below.
(29/3/01, last updated 20/2/08)
Contact details:
Address: Ctra. de Zaragoza, Km 5, 26006 Logroño
Telephone: +34 941 271 370
Fax: +34 941 251 606
Internet:
www.marquesdemurrieta.com
Marqués de Murrieta - Tasting Notes
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stockists.
Pazo de Barrantes Rias Baixas Albariño 2006: From a Rias Baixas estate also
owned by the Cebrián-Sagarriga family, so I include this note here for sake of completeness.
Tasted twice, once over dinner and then the next day at the Murrieta winery near Logroño. This is fresh,
citrussy and rather creamy, with bold mineral and sea-shell character, revealing
a more peachy side when a little warmer. The palate is quite firm and
structured, grippy, quite open and flavoursome when it has had a little time to
warm and open up in the glass. Firm acidity, and a good grippy finish. Very
attractive indeed. 17/20 (June 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Dalmau 2003: Another chance to taste this
wine first assessed last summer. It has a deliciously sweet nose, showing dense
fruit, over a layer of deep, spicy complexity. The palate is full, creamy,
sweet, grippy and structured. There is a youthful intensity of flavour and
plenty of ripe tannins and firm acidity. Superbly vibrant and fresh yet very
sweet cherry fruit. This has huge potential and is of very high quality; it is
merely the very modern style determines whether or not you wish to buy, cellar
and drink it. 17.5-18+/20 (November 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Dalmau 2003: Tempranillo 85%, Cabernet
Sauvignon 10%, Graciano 5%. New French oak for 23 months. A youthful purple hue.
On the nose there are aromas of sweet, creamy black fruits swirled with aromatic
notes of rose petals. A very sweet, creamy style on the palate too, hugely rich,
rather brooding, with a youthful, brutal structure underneath it all. This is
less obviously Rioja compared to the more classic 1998 Castillo Ygay tasted
alongside , a more international style, but nevertheless one of huge potential. There is a
fine quality to the tannins and a lovely length. Excellent but a style that
might not appeal to all Rioja purists. 17.5+/20 (June 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Capellania Blanco 2002: Another
chance to taste this vintage, this time in London. Recently bottled when I
tasted it at the estate in June. The nose seems even bigger, with greater
complexity, when compared with my prior impressions. There is fennel, honey,
a faint trace of oxidation which provides an interesting seasoning rather
than a cause for complaint. Structured, round, quite a big and oaky grip,
very broad in its style. Warm and attractive, but very manly. This appears
to have knit together somewhat and it is more impressive on today's tasting.
17/20 (November 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Capellania Blanco 2002: Bottled
2007, this is Murrieta's white Rioja which has seen an attractive repackaging in
recent vintages. It has a pale golden hue, and there is good depth on the nose;
notes of fennel, with an organic, toffee-edged character. A slightly oxidised
style which is appealing as it adds to the sense of complexity. The palate is
broad, warm and creamy, showing those notes of oxidation again, and is obviously
marked by oak. Quite firm, with good grip and wood tannin. At present it doesn't
seem perfectly married together but I suspect it will come good in bottle. Very
good. 16+/20 (June 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva 2002: A vibrant red hue, with an
interesting nose, the blackberry fruit of Tempranillo mixed with a rather feral
notes, layered with the honey, cinder toffee and vanilla ice cream of good
quality oak. Also a little raspberry in the fruit profile. Young and bright on
the palate, firm and defining acidity, with fresh fruit. Like the Capellania,
also not perfectly integrated, rather crunchy fruit, distant alcohol and chewy
tannins. But a lovely, fresh finish. Very good indeed, but time needed here.
16.5+/20 (June 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Dalmau 2001: Tempranillo 85%, Cabernet
Sauvignon 10%, Graciano 5%. New French oak for 19 months. A deep, brooding
purple-black hue belying this wines youthful and introverted character. The nose
is very primary, yet aromatic, but it gives little away, as does the palate.
Here the wine is truly turned inward, showing monolithic structure, huge tannins
and balancing acidity, albeit well covered by plenty of texture and perhaps
fruit, although I find it rather closed in and ungiving at present. Nevertheless
there is certainly potential here, and with suitable time in the cellar this
should give much pleasure, although I must point out that it is quite distinct
from the traditional style of Rioja I prefer. 18.5+/20 (June 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva 2000: A fairly decent colour on
inspection. Rather savage and animalistic on the nose, yet light on the palate.
Rather soft and unstructured, with little tannin showing. Lacks concentration,
and overall rather short of impact. Not particularly impressive. 14/20 (November 2005)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Dalmau 2000: A dark, concentrated,
glossy looking wine, with a deep concentration of fruit on the nose. The palate
has a very different style to the two preceding wines, with a ripe, rounded,
creamy, softly ripe tannic structure. This is a big style of wine, rather flashy
at present, but again has good potential. 16+/20 (November 2005)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 1998:
Tempranillo 85%, Garnacha 2%, Mazuelo 13%, no Graciano in this vintage. American
oak for 41 months. Showing some early fading of the primary colours at the rim.
It has an enticing nose, although is still clearly quite primary, with some
broad, furry fruit and there is still a little toffee apparent, from the oak
treatment. It has a nice feral character and is clearly developing nicely. A
fine palate, still with a little textural plumpness from the fruit, but with
emerging complexity. There is depth and creaminess over the structure. Lots of
potential here. Overall, quite fine. 18+/20 (June 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 1995: Tempranillo 78%,
Garnacha 6%, Mazuelo 15%, Graciano 1%. American oak for 48 months. Early
release. A moderate depth of colour here, fading to a brick red out at the
rim. Like the straight Reserva, again an earthy, rather characterful nose. This
wine has a much better presence on the palate, however, showing good
concentration and depth of flavour. Just a little lean at some points, but
certainly has an elegant style, and shows good balance. Has good potential for
the cellar, though, and will possibly be great with time. 17+/20 (November 2005)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Gran Reserva 1991: Some evidence of maturity
on inspection, with quite a depth of garnet red colour fading out to a pink-orange
rim. The nose is a classic, full of the
aromas of polished leather armchairs and raspberry and blackberry fruit, with
earthy, medicinal qualities also coming through. Medium bodied on the palate,
which is still rich with damson, plum and berry fruit. A good texture, which has
a rounded, integrated, slightly oily mouthfeel derived from the polyphenols of
barrel maturation that is legally required for a Gran Reserva. There is good
acidity too, which leaves the palate cleansed. Approachable now, but doubtless
set to develop more complexity over the next 3-5 years. 16.5+/20 (October 2002)
Label
Marqués
de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 1989: This wine has a good deep red colour,
fading to a salmon pink at the rim with no tawny or
browning that would signify aging. A delightful nose
follows a whiff of varnished wood due to volatile
acidity, with macerated raspberry, blackberry and
strawberry fruits, grilled meats and some polished oak.
The palate is typical good Gran Reserva, smoothly
textured with fully integrated tannins, liquorice and
meat flavours. Packed with fruit and fresh, cleansing,
tingling acidity which persists right through the finish.
Delicious length. With all that balanced fruit and
acidity, without doubt this wine is capable of aging
gracefully for years to come.
18+/20 (March 2001) Label
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Gran Reserva 1980: From a magnum.
This has a very mature hue, a pale and orange-tinged rim. It has a nose that
belies this wine's age, with an aged volatility that no doubt will appeal to
some, with a feral aroma lying beneath. The palate has an appealingly
well-rounded texture, with the texture of barrel ageing having some
considerable influence. It has a good integration and a light but complex
composition. It has an elegance. It is not a great wine, but it certainly
has points of merit. 16/20 (November 2007)
Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Historic Release 1978:
Tempranillo 75%, Garnacha 10%, Mazuelo 12%, Graciano 3%. This wine has spent a
remarkable 216 months (that's eighteen years) in barrel before bottling, and the
wine clearly had the necessary substance to dope with such an extended period of
ageing. It has an amazing colour, still with a very deep and vibrant core, and
although it has a pink-mature rim there is nothing to suggest nearly two decades
in the barrel. A slightly volatile nose, but with a lovely complexity, with a
wild, savage character to the mature fruit character. The palate is broad, deep,
plush, velvety and yet elegant. Delightful. 18.5-19+/20 (June 2007)
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