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Hidalgo

Hidalgo is a long-established bodega in Sanlúcar, with its origins in the 18th Century. The Hidalgo family moved from northern Spain to Andalucía at that time, and established a salina for the production of salt. The family only entered the Sherry business in 1792, when José Pantaleón Hidalgo acquired a bodega from his father-in-law. Since that time the business has remained a family concern, passed through six generations. Keeping the operation small has allowed the family to maintain control, and to favour the production of quality wines over quantity. They occupy the same premises in the centre of Sanlúcar de Barrameda that they did two centuries ago, and own over 200 hectares of vineyards which include some ancient vines, up to eighty years old in some places. The vineyards are situated on the Albariza soil which is favoured locally for the culture of grapes for the lighter styles of Sherry, such as Fino and Manzanilla. Manzanilla is indeed one of the firms most popular styles, with the Manzanilla La Gitana being one of the best selling examples. This is partly due to attractive branding, but also the fact that quality and reliability are maintained, despite wide availability. The wine features the gypsy girl originally painted for the firm by Joaquín Turina.

There are several ranges of Sherry produced at Hidalgo, including a basic Hidalgo range, Jerez Cortado, a Napoleon range, single vineyard wines and 'Very Rare' sherries. The entry-level Hidalgo range includes some very good examples of the styles, particularly the Fino and Cream, as well as a Medium Dry (a sweetened Amontillado) and a less desirable Pale Cream. The Napoleon range is a step up in quality, and takes its name from Hidalgo's trade with the occupying French army during the 19th Century. Hidalgo did good business with the French, and did the same with the British at the same time, although in a classic example of targeted marketing these latter wines were bottled under the Wellington brand. The Napoleon wines are more classic than the entry-level wines, with three dry wines; a Fino Superior, Amontillado Seco, Oloroso Seco, as well as a sweetened Oloroso Abocado and a Pedro Ximénez Viejo. The special Sherries include Jerez Cortado, from a solera started two centuries ago. The superb character of this wine is said to originate from the ancient sediment now lining each old barrel, know as La Madre (the mother). Then there are two single vineyard Sherries, the aged Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada and the ancient Pastrana Amontillado Viejo. Finally there are the rare Sherries, made from butts of wine set aside early in the 20th Century. These yield an Amontillado Viejo, Oloroso Viejo and Palo Cortado Viejo. (14/12/02, updated 2/9/07)

Contact details:
Address: Banda de la Playa 42, Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Telephone: +34 956 385 304
Fax: +34 956 363 844

Hidalgo - Tasting Notes

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Hidalgo Manzanilla Pasada NV: Darker than is usual for a Manzanilla, a colour which reflects the barrel ageing that this single vineyard wine has undergone. Likewise it has a little more character on the nose, and a hint of sumptuousness on the palate, than most Manzanilla. Roasted pistachio and woody vegetation aromas, with slightly chalky, flinty, minerally, roasted nut flavour on the palate. Very nicely texture from first entry, building in substance through the midpalate. Plenty of warmth. 15.5/20 (November 2004)

Hidalgo Manzanilla 'La Gitana' NV: This wine has been attractively repackaged, but still depicts the gypsy girl originally painted for the firm by Joaquín Turina. It has a very pale colour typical of Manzanilla. Plenty of flor character on the nose, with a salty, cashew nut edge. Bone dry on the palate, very fresh and tangy, with flor, nut and herb flavours. Perfect with nuts or olives, and a great introduction to dry sherry for those yet to dip their toe. Don't forget to check the bottling date on the back label - the younger the better. 16.5/20 (September 2003) Label

Hidalgo Amontillado NV: Purchased March 2006. An appealing, brown-amber hue. A very typical style on the nose, baked earth and baked oranges, walnuts too. Full, expressive palate, full of salty-nutty style and baked character. Fresh acidity, rich yet dry. Strong finish, and considerable length. Dependable, straight-down-the-line, Hidalgo. Very good. 16.5/20 (March 2006)

Hidalgo Napoleon Amontillado Seco NV: A true, unsweetened Amontillado. A deep, burnished copper colour. Nutty, with a hint of wood polish on the nose. On the palate it is tangy but nutty also, lithe and yet fleshy also. There are notes of salt and pepper and burnt wood too. A warming, nutty finish and length. Good. 15.5/20 (November 2004)

Hidalgo Amontillado NV: An elegant, orange brown colour. Lots of interest on the nose, with nuts and burnt orange peel, with a sweet but subtle caramel edge. Dry palate, very fresh, with salty nuttiness and a warm, roasted character. Finishes very cleanly and simply, but impresses with considerable length, continually popping back to give little nuances of flavour long after its swallowed. 16.5/20 (November 2004)

Hidalgo Oloroso NV: Glorious golden-amber-brown colour, Lovely nose, which quickly belies the fact that this is an Oloroso sweetened up with Pedro Ximénez. It has aromas of raisins, nuts and figs, but above all the sweet axle-grease of the PX. There is a slightly vegetal complexity in the background too. Lovely sweetness and texture on the palate, which is rich, warm and mouth filling, with a panoply of flavours mirroring the nose. Burnt orange fruit too. Delicious stuff indeed. 17/20 (November 2004)

Hidalgo Napoleon Pedro Ximénez Viejo NV: Deep, golden brown colour with a tinge of red. A wonderful nose. It first offers complex, vegetal notes, but then a multifaceted array of aromas - figs, toffee, raisins, nuts and axle grease - that last one is a PX trademark. And it is similarly impressive on the palate. There is good acidity, although it struggles to measure up to the luscious, oily texture and masses of treacle toffee and raisin flavour. Lovely length too, as the wine continues to flit across the palate for several minutes after swallowing. 17/20 (November 2004)