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Domaine Cauhapé
If there are any wines that have made an impression on me in the last few years, they can be found at Domaine Cauhapé. Proprietor Henri Ramonteu turns out a range of wines made from the local Petit and Gros Manseng, both dry and sweet, that rival any dry or sweet wine produced in France today. The wines have a precision, a balance, and a focus of pure flavour unlike any others I have encountered from the South-West.
The domaine is 40 hectares in total, planted entirely to the two Mansengs. The Gros
Manseng is the mainstay of the dry Jurançon, being the grape behind two of the
three such wines. The first is the Chant des Vignes, an unoaked cuvée,
which is harvested in mid-October, fermented in stainless steel and then held on
the lees for six months, before bottling. The oaked Gros Manseng (typically
blended with about 30% Petit Manseng), Sève
d'Automne, is harvested a little later in October and similarly fermented
before spending ten months in used oak. There is a third Gros Manseng cuvée,
Ballet d'Octobre (also typically blended with about 30% Petit Manseng), managed in a very similar fashion to the Sève d'Automne.
Petit Manseng is Jurançon's secret weapon; as at other domaines, this is the variety responsible for the greatest sweet wines, and Domaine Cauhapé is no exception. There is one dry wine, Canopée, but it is the sweet cuvées, made from grapes harvested first in October and then in stages throughout Autumn and possibly through to January the following year, that really set Domaine Cauhapé apart. First harvests, in early November, provide the raw materials for Symphonie Novembre; yields are 30-35 hl/ha, vinification is in new and two year-old oak, followed by nine months in oak and then six months in tank before bottling. The Noblesse du Temps is the product of December's harvest, and if I were running the domaine would be called something more logical such as L'Expression Decembre, but then the wines probably wouldn't be so good, so Noblesse du Temps it is. With an extra month of hang-time these late harvested grapes are picked at just 20 hl/ha, fermented in new oak and then spend up to eighteen months in barrel. The result can be intense, sweet and smoky, a beautiful example of the oak-influenced vendange tardive style, based entirely on passerillage. There is very rarely a little noble rot in the vineyards, says manager Edward de Ros, such as 2006, but this is not the norm.
The pinnacle of achievement at Cauhapé is embodied in two final wines; of the two top cuvées, the one most likely to be encountered is Quintessence du Petit Manseng, produced from the third and fourth tries and harvested in 8 hl/ha. Fermentation is in oak, followed by two years élevage. The result is, quite simply, breath-taking; this is a true vin de garde which, although different in style - relying on passerillage rather than botrytis - can easily challenge many Sauternes on terms of quality. I can only, so far, imagine how its companion wine, Folie de Janvier, tastes. This is an occasionally produced cuvée, made from the very last bunches picked in January, well into the frosty winter. These grapes are harvested at a mere 6 hl/ha before fermentation and élevage in the same manner as for Quintessence.
I'm a little reluctant to bang my drum about Domaine Cauhapé too loud...after all, I don't want to alert you all to this star of South-West France. But the wines are simply fabulous, and my enthusiasm quite simply betrays me. Having tasted through the range on several occasions in the company once of Henri Ramonteu and subsequently Edward de Ros, I have already bought more for the cellar, of both dry and sweet cuvées. That says all you need to know about the quality to be found here. (24/10/05, updated 25/7/07)
Contact details:
Address: 64360 Monein
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 59 21 33 02
Fax: +33 (0) 5 59 21 41 82
Internet: www.cauhape.com
Domaine Cauhapé - Tasting Notes
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Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Chant des Vignes 2005: This has a bright and
shimmering hue, and although it seems to have lost that vibrant grapefruit
character there are other appealing elements on the nose, most notably a herby,
garden mint perfume. Alongside it, however, there was also a trace of confected
banana, more like banana flavoured sweets than the genuine item, and this has
never been an aroma I have enjoyed in a wine. Fortunately for me, the isoamyl or amyl acetate,
or whichever of the above is the culprit, is not so evident on the palate,
which has a full body, a touch of creaminess, with a lovely weight. There is a
raft of un-bananery fruit, with a pithy nature, and lots of grip and substance.
Overall, despite my initial misgivings, this is really excellent wine, the
banana component indeed fading to become a minor nuance, and on
reviewing my notes from my tasting in February I see that today I have scored it a little
higher than I did then. What a pleasure. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week
write-up. 18/20 (October 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Chant des Vignes 2005: This is 100% Gros
Manseng, fermented entirely in stainless steel. A lovely, evocative nose, with
aromas of grapefruit. Very fresh on the palate, crisp, with good direction.
Lovely, vibrant, vivacious style. 17.5/20 (February 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Seve d'Automne Vieilles Vignes 2005: This
is 70% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng which see 8 to 10 months in old oak. It
has a lovely, honeyed nose, and on the palate it has a similar honeyed
character, despite being really very dry. It almost seems autumnal, although no
doubt the name provokes these thoughts. Fresh and crisp, and a fabulous texture.
Very fine. 17.5+/20 (February 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Canopée 2005: This is 100% Petit
Manseng, harvested in November, with 30% fermented in new oak, 30% in old oak
and 40% in stainless steel. In bottle for just six months at the time of
tasting. Rich, honeyed, passerillage style nose. The palate follows on
nicely, rich, honeyed, broad and mouthfilling, yet crisp, fresh and just
teetering on the edge of dry. Full, even a little grip here. An amazingly
characterful finish. Lovely. 17.5+/20 (February 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Ballet d'Octobre 2005: This is 70% Gros
Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng, fermented entirely in stainless steel, although in
this vintage the Petit Manseng subsequently spent six months in oak. A lovely,
honeyed yet vibrant nose. Rich, round, expressive, fresh and vivacious. Lovely,
creamy, white fruit flavours. Just divine. 18+/20 (February 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Symphonie de Novembre 2005: This is 100%
Petit Manseng which has spent ten months in oak. Honey, orange and quince on the
nose. Lovely, fat and creamy palate, rounded yet fresh and grippy. Youthful.
Full of potential, but this needs time to blossom. 18+/20 (February 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Chant des Vignes 2004: This shows a
fresher profile, but similarly precise, with a nettly character. Fresh, crisp
acidity on the palate with a green, herbal element. Super style here. This is
delightful. 17/20 (May 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Noblesse du Temps 2003: This is 100% Petit
Manseng which has spent 18 months in new oak after fermentation. Very compact
nose, dense and honeyed. Deep and complex palate. Broad, expansive, sweet and
honeyed. Impressive wine indeed. Just fabulous. 18.5+/20 (February 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Chant des Vignes 2003: A beautifully
fresh nose, quite expressive, with herbal and mineral, nettly, honey tinged
notes. Crisp, precise palate with a superb texture and great finesse. Balanced,
and in possession of a lovely vinosity. This is superb. 18/20 (May 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Seve d'Automne Vieilles Vignes 2003: A
superb nose, fresh but showing a slightly more honeyed element than the two
Chant des Vignes cuvées. Dry palate, yet weighty and textured, with plenty of
style and grip. Nettly, honey-tinged character. Very impressive. 18/20 (May 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Ballet d'Octobre 2003: A lovely, botrytis
tinged nose, with a wealth of white crystalline fruits here. It has a honeyed
and textured palate, with light botrytis, cut through with fresh acidity. There
is elegance with this wine, which has grip and weight, but also exhibits a very
fluid, seamless presence on the palate. Wonderful. 18/20 (May 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Symphonie de Novembre 2003: An elegant,
refined, minerally, rock dust nose. There is great depth on the palate, which
has a delightfully lush, seamless character, and yet crisply fresh crystalline
fruit and a fine minerality. This is just super. 18/20 (May 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Noblesse du Temps 2003: A splendid nose, of
honey draped over more minerally, crystalline white fruits. Fantastic viscosity
on the impressively creamy, velvety textured palate. Superb richness, lovely
grip, and superb depth of flavour. Crushed rock minerality. This is brilliant.
18.5+/20 (May 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Sec Chant des Vignes 2002: Great nose,
really fresh and firm. On the palate this wine shows plenty of structure, with
some firm grip, and a lovely weighty, notable presence on the palate. This is
countered by fresh acidity and a firm, upright texture. Delicious, structured
stuff. Drink now and over the next few years. 17/20 (October 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Noblesse du Temps 2000: From a half bottle.
Powerful minerality on the nose; notes of cordite and crushed rocks. Beautiful
palate; balanced yet rich, honeyed, but showing that super stony, rocky
minerality found on the nose. Apricots, cream, notes of pineapple and citrus.
Shows grip and structure too. Pretty impressive length. Wonderful. Drinking now,
but should be fine for a decade in the cellar at least. 18/20 (October 2005)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Quintessence du Petit Manseng 1999: Produced
from an eight hectare plot, picked on Christmas Eve. Fabulous, deep,
concentrated, really breathtaking wine. So concentrated, so intense, honey and
barley. It is remarkable to think that this comes entirely from the passerillage
method. A divine, lingering finish. 19.5+/20 (February 2007)
Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Quintessence du Petit Manseng 1999: Simply
stunning; a breathtaking nose, exhibiting a rarely encountered finesse, an
elegant intertwining of mineral character and exotic aroma. Such balance on the
palate. There is great structure, a wonderful depth of fruit and fine botrytis.
Despite such opulent richness this wine still possesses great verve and
elegance. Finishes with a delightful, honeycomb finish. This is exceptional.
19.5+/20 (May 2005)
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