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Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe does indeed derive its name from an old telegraph station, one which was once sited on the hill where this Châteauneuf domaine now stands. The station was one of Claude Chappe's optical telegraph relay towers, erected in 1792, part of a system of such stations spanning the whole of France which utilised a semaphore system to relay information. Each station was equipped with two telescopes, pointing up and down the line, to view incoming messages. The French Government opted for replacement by an electric telegraph in 1846, despite some fears that such a communication system was more open to sabotage as a cable was easily cut, and thus the station at Châteauneuf has long since been demolished. As for the vineyards, the history of the domaine itself begins with Hippolyte Brunier in 1898, who planted vines on the Plateau de la Crau, situated in the triangle between the villages of Bédarrides, Châteauneuf and Courthezon, thereby establishing the vineyard that today remains the prime source of fruit for Vieux Télégraphe. Over the ensuing years the vineyard was expanded, most notably by the next generation, Jules, who saw it reach a size approaching 17 hectares. Jules was also responsible for christening the domaine, naming it after the aforementioned telegraph station that once occupied the spot on the plateau. During the early years of the 20th Century there was a downturn in the estate's fortunes, phylloxera and war both taking their toll. It was the next generation, in the shape of Henri Brunier, that was charged with rebuilding the domaine, a task to which turned all his attention, before subsequently handing it on to his own sons, Daniel and Frederic, in 1988.
The
Vieux Télégraphe vineyards are unusual in that they lie in a single block, on the La Crau
plateau, today covering an area of 70 hectares. The ground is covered by the
galets roules, the large rounded stones which originated in the Alps to
the east, and were transported down to lower lands by the action of floodwaters.
They are classically associated with the vineyards of Châteauneuf du Pape,
although they can also be found in other areas across the south of France.
Beneath these stones there is a more organic soil, up to 1.5 metres deep, a
molasse deposited here during the Miocene era, and then deeper again there is a
red clay. The vines average an impressive 50 years of age, with a significant
proportion old enough to draw their pension at 65 years. The oldest vines are
Grenache, which account for 65% of the vineyard area. There is also Syrah (15%)
, Mourvèdre (15%), Cinsaut and a mix other varieties, some of which are white,
including Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and Bourboulenc, altogether
totalling just 5% of the vineyard. The white vines have an average age of around
35 years. The management of the vineyard involves la culture raisonée
(perhaps best translated as reasoned agriculture), minimising those
treatments in use to the lowest possible level, and they have gone as far as
reducing the grape worm pest by the use of pheromones in the vineyard, confusing
the adult butterflies and reducing their breeding capacity as a result. There is a green
harvest and leaf stripping to manage yields and encourage ripening, followed by
manual harvesting and a double sorting before vinification.
The grand vin here is the red Vieux Télégraphe, a classic Châteauneuf blend. The wines declare La Crau on the label but this is not a special bottling as is often thought, all the fruit for the grand vin comes from this plateau. The fruit for this wine is destemmed and pressed, then fermented in stainless steel tanks with temperature control, for a period of two to three weeks. Malolactic is encouraged. The wine then goes into concrete tank for nine months, before going into oak foudres (up to 70 hectolitre capacity) for up to one year. The wine is bottled at two years of age, without filtration. The Brunier brothers do not intend to produce a premium cuvée as many other local producers have done, rather they have introduced a second wine which helps to keep the quality of the grand vin high. This was called Vieux Mas des Papes (and also variably named Télégramme, a second moniker introduced with the washout 2002 vintage) and includes wine from vines less than twenty years of age, and those aliquots rejected from inclusion in the grand vin. It is strong on Grenache and Mourvèdre, but otherwise the fermentation and élevage is no different. Importantly, neither this wine nor the grand vin sees any new oak, in this respect it goes against what is an increasingly fashionable practice in the region. The white Châteauneuf, sourced from the five hectares of white varieties, is dominated by Clairette and Grenache Blanc, which comprise 40% and 30% of the blend respectively, followed by Bourboulenc and Roussanne which contribute 15% each. This wine is, however, more likely to see some oak, with some varieties, 40% of the total, fermented en barrique, whilst the remainder is fermented in stainless steel. It is aged in both, then bottled at nine months of age. There is also a second wine for the white, again christened Vieux Mas des Papes. Made from young vines, its composition is quite different to the grand vin, being 40% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc, 20% Bourboulenc and 10% Picpoul. It is fermented only in steel, and bottled at seven months.
I've long been a keen buyer and drinker of good quality Châteauneuf, ever since I first visited and tasted in and around the town itself, and I soon learnt the quality that could be found at Vieux Télégraphe. Consequently this estate remains one of my regular buys, especially as it can still be found at a reasonable price - unlike some estates which, having duly been anointed by influential critics, simply cannot resist the temptation to push prices skyward. This is especially true of those estates that cream off the best of their wine for a turbo-charged, bank-balance-damaging super-cuvée. The Brunier brothers deserve credit for taking the opposite tack, and introducing a second wine to improve the quality of the grand vin, rather than lessen it as only a super-cuvée can do. It is a story of success for the Brunier family, who have gone on to purchase Domaine de la Roquette, another Châteauneuf estate, and also Domaine de la Pallières, in Gigondas, in partnership with US importer Kermit Lynch. Meanwhile, the red wines of Vieux Télégraphe remain worthwhile, and they are wines that, whilst the prices remain favourable, I will continue to buy. The white wines, however, I must confess I find rather more difficult to understand. This is true for the appellation as a whole. (1/3/06, updated 29/5/07)
Contact details:
Address: Vignobles Brunier, 84370 Bédarrides
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 90 33 00 31
Fax: +33 (0) 4 90 33 18 47
Internet: www.brunier.fr
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe - Tasting Notes
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Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2006: This has
some appealing aromatics, with a bright and herby edge to the fruit. Fat and
rounded at the start, soft, with a minerally-chalkiness to the texture beneath.
Fat and weighty in the mouth, as young white Châteauneuf can be. Like the
Roquette of the same vintage, it has rather a soft acid backbone. The palate holds
potential but there need to be some development here in order for it to match
the promise presented on the nose.
From a Vignobles Brunier
tasting.
16+/20 (November 2007)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2005: An open,
rather exotic but fresh, with an unusual suggestion of fatness alongside the
herby, lemony aromas. A bitter backbone, burnt herbs, moderate weight, and a
firm, pent up finish. Distinctive. I don't like it though. 13.5/20 (November 2006)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 2005: A cherry
pink-red hue in the glass. Often when tasted at this stage in its evolution I
have found Vieux Télégraphe to be rather simple in its aromatics, but this wows me with
wild notes of garrigue and aromatic herbs on top of the usual sweet
fruit. It has a very soft entry onto the palate despite this, but then reveals a
well composed supple melding of ripe tannins, well covered by fruit, with a good
acid backbone as well. There is true character here too. Great potential,
a fine vintage for the Bruniers I think. From a
Vignobles Brunier tasting. 18-18.5+/20
(November 2007)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2004: Lean,
rather reticent on the nose, from a bottle only just opened. But there is some
good citrus and mineral style present. Quite full on the palate, soft, with a
little fatness, and with mineral-chalky flavour. A little short on character at
present, but there is good structure and balance, and I suspect this just needs
more time in bottle. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 2004: Sweet and open
on the nose, very dominated by Grenache, with lots of cherry-herby fruit to the
fore. Sweetly textured fruit, quite fine, nicely rounded, with an appealing,
elegant, silky texture. Grippy, herby, sweet cherry fruit like that on the nose.
Very primary, but complete, with fresh acids and a good backbone of tannin.
Lovely balance. This has lots of potential. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2003: A blend of
40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc and 15% Roussanne.
Fermentation and ageing in oak for 40% of the blend. A very pale hue, but an
appealing nose. A good ripe palate, full yet elegant, with good intensity.
Plenty of flavour. Good acidity and grip. Lovely. Ready now, but will improve
over the next few years. 17+/20 (November 2004)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 2003: Lots of lovely,
very primary, fruit on the nose, which has a rich cherry confit character. This
carries through onto the palate, which is full and creamy, with a lovely depth
of fruit. Behind it all lies a wall of tannin, although there does seem to be a
wealth of fruit to match this. Unremarkable acidity, nevertheless this will also
improve in bottle, and has very good potential. 17+/20 (November 2005)
Telegramme Châteauneuf du Pape 2002: A one-off cuvée reflecting the
wash-out quality of this vintage. A light colour. Forward vegetal nose. Quite
full on the palate, balanced, forward, with a little grip and tannic structure
showing just on the midpalate. But it lacks appeal for me. The Brunier brothers
are to be commended for not bottling Vieux Télégraphe, but I feel the
declassification should have been absolute; this is little more than
supermarche Côtes du Rhône. Shop elsewhere for your Rhône bargains. 13.5/20
(November 2004)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 2001: From a magnum.
Moderately deep colour. Meaty nose, with herbal, cherry, Grenache-influenced
character. Lovely texture and balance, with loads of ripe tannic structure; more
so than on last tasting, it seems, perhaps reflecting the format. As with
previous tastings, plenty of primary Grenache flavour and character but it needs
time, at least seven years where magnums are concerned. 18+/20 (November 2004)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 2001: A very similar
appearance to the preceding wine, with almost matching colour and depth of hue.
The nose has classic sweet, intense Grenache fruit aromas. Similarly pure
Grenache fruit on the palate, with plenty of texture and weight. Also there is
appropriate firm acidity and balanced, ripe tannins. Lovely. Also needs five
years plus, but I think this one just has the edge in potential. 17.5+/20 (July 2004)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 2000: One of the two
most youthful looking wines here. A blood red, moderately deep hue. Lovely smoky
Grenache fruit. Intense and a little tarry. Full, rounded, textured on the
palate. Slightly chalky tannins underpin some sweet, macerated, roasted fruit.
Good balancing acidity and a grippy endpalate. Firm finish. Needs five years at
least. 17+/20 (July 2004)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 1999: From a half
bottle. Definitely showing a little age here, and a little fine sediment. A very
earthy hue. Maturing fruit nose, with some charred meat, and a touch perfumed.
There's plenty of structure here, with tannins showing well on the endpalate.
Firm, textured, earthy fruit and bright acidity. Needs three or four years.
16.5+/20 (July 2004)
Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 1998:
This wine shows some maturity in the glass, but it still has plenty of deep red
pigment at its core. The nose has a fabulous depth, multilayered as it is, first
showing wisps of smoke, then an intensely concentrated seam of earthy fruit,
with a little note of roasted meat. Then nuances of orange peel and cloves make
a brief appearance. The palate has a delicious weight, with decent acidity, and
certainly there is a freshness to the palate, although it struggles, twisting
and turning with the ripe and hearty fruit. There is a lovely depth to the
fruit, although the style of the vintage does not allow it a fresh style. But it
has a very enticing grip, and a slightly bitter charcoal tinge to the structure.
It maintains a good presence in the mouth, and it has a good length. From a
1998 Southern Rhône
tasting. 18.5+/20
(February 2008)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 1998: From a half
bottle. A great depth of colour here, one of the most impressive wines in the
flight. Sweet burnt rubber fruit on the nose. The palate follows on, with sweet
fruit and a burnt rubber edge, with plenty of pepper and spice. Firm acidity.
Grippy tannin in the background, a little coarse if anything, but this is a
minor temporary criticism. It has texture, balance, and is very drinkable.
17.5+/20 (July 2004)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 1995:
A densely coloured wine right up to the rim. A complex array of aromas on the
nose - the coffee and minty aromas of youth, but also compost, rotting broccoli and a touch
of acetone. The palate is lovely, full of cloves, spicy fruitcake spices and
dense fruit. Good structure and balance. This wine needs time, a year or two
perhaps. From a Southern
Rhône 1995 tasting. 17.5+/20 (February 2004)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf du Pape 1994: Together with the
Beaucastel this is one
of the two most youthful looking wines in this flight. The nose is
packed with smoke, plenty of fruit, game, spices, pepper and sensibly
applied oak. Sweet and round fruit on the palate, with ripe though
prominent tannins. There is some strong acidity destined to carry this
wine into the future. Clearly a wine on the way up. From a
Southern Rhône 1994
tasting. 17+/20 (February 2002)
Domaine du
Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf
du Pape 1989: Deep mahogany red. Rich fruit on
the nose, with spicy cloves. Tannic palate, but carrying
loads of fruit and sweet toffee oak. Full bodied, spicy.
Warming alcoholic finish. Excellent length. From a
1989 Châteauneuf du Pape
tasting. 18/20 (July 2000)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf
du Pape 1988: This wine impresses with its depth of colour, its dark
pigment, with a deep red-mahogany core and a more mature, almost tawny rim. The
nose evolves over several hours in the glass, showing macerated cherry fruit,
with fresh aromas of mushrooms, leather, spice and after an hour or two some
volatile acidity. On the palate the most noticeable feature at first is the
silky texture, a soft substance which coats the palate; this is in no way a
dried out wine. Underneath there is a good ripe tannic structure, and good
acidity too. It has such a lovely presence, I find it charming if a touch
forceful and grippy towards the finish. Peppered with the flavours of
tobacco, leather, and gritty fruit, this twenty-year old wine is performing very
well indeed tonight, and I would have no hesitation about leaving my remaining
bottles for many years. In fact, I think this still-youthful wine almost demands it.
From a
1988 vintage twenty years on tasting. 18+/20 (September 2008)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf
du Pape 1988: Fairly transparent in appearance, but mature, with a good
depth of hue. There is a little rubber on the nose at first, but it is just a
slightly reductive component which soon dissipates. The more classic character,
roasted meats, fur and baked red fruits with a sweet, macerated character. It
suggests warmth, but on the palate we have a wine that is balanced, with a
welcoming weight and texture, but underneath that still a firm structure , a
good backbone of acidity and there are still some tannins poking through too,
particularly at the finish. Crisply defined, this continues to drink very well
indeed. Delicious. A 2007 Christmas
wine. 18/20 (December 2007)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf
du Pape 1988: Decanted just an hour or so before drinking; this just got
better and better as the evening wore on, so decanting slightly earlier might have been advantageous.
It had a beautifully mature hue when poured, almost brick red
at the rim, deeper and more freshly coloured at the core. But it is the nose
that really alerts to the quality; a little dumb at first, but before long
revealing notes of roasted meats and white pepper, along with a savage,
animalistic, somewhat earthy and feral character. Soft, warm and cushioning on entry,
remaining very plump and matronly through the midpalate, revealing just a little
of the structure that lies beneath, which shows more on the finish. This is no
shrinking violet; it may be ageing with finesse, but there is still a fabulous
lick of tannin beneath as well. And there is fruit on the midpalate. It is very fine
now, but the signs suggest this will continue along this plateau of drinkability
for some time. Nice length, too! Just lovely. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week
write-up. 18/20 (August 2006)
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