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Château La Nerthe

This estate is ancient, and may be as old as 800 years, although the first document describing its existence in any detail dates to 1560. At this time the estate, then known as Grange de Beauvenir, was owned by the noble Tulle de Villefranche family, who originated from Piedmont. Under their tenure the wines enjoyed a good reputation and seem to have passed the lips of many of the notables of the day, and were also served at the court of Louis XVI. By 1736 work on the château, which still stands today, had already begun, although some of the cellars still in use date to the 16th Century. At the midpoint of the 18th Century there were 50 hectares of vines, the produce of which were widely distributed around Europe. It is even reported that the family were bottling the wine on the estate in 1784, predating similar action in Bordeaux by well over a century.

Chateau La NertheIt was Phylloxera that led to the decline in the vineyard's fortunes, the Tulle de Villefranche family selling it on in 1870 to Commandant Joseph Ducos, who undertook the revitalisation of the ailing vineyard. His determination brought him some success, both with La Nerthe and with Châteauneuf du Pape as a whole. At La Nerthe he experimented with planting different varieties, many of which still play a role in the Châteauneuf blend as defined by the appellation regulations of today; he also rescued the estate from Phylloxera by the grafting of his vines onto resistant American rootstock. He progressed on to become mayor of the town, and subsequently deputy of the Vaucluse region, and was also the first leader of the Syndicat Viticole, an association of local vignerons. Despite the sterling efforts of Ducos, however, the estate subsequently went into decline during the 20th Century. It was saved from despair by the Richard family in 1986, following the advice of Alain Dugas, an accountant-turned-winemaker who had worked at Domaine de la Renjarde for fifteen years. Dugas subsequently took on a supervisory role at La Nerthe.

The terroir at La Nerthe is absolutely typical of the region; the vineyard runs along a slope, at the top of which the vines dig their roots into soils of sandy-clay, although on the surface there is a layer of the famous galettes, large, round, well-worn stones that originated in the Alps, having been carried down to the Rhône by the glaciers of previous ice ages. The further down the slope of the vineyard you travel, the more these stones dominate. They ameliorate the evaporation of precious rainfall which quickly runs off into the deeper soil, and they also retain and reflect heat, creating a favourable mesoclimate particularly for varieties such as Mourvèdre which, even in this southerly clime, still benefit from the additional warmth. The vines themselves are located in a single block of 90 hectares around the château (an unusual arrangement for the appellation) and have an average age of 40 years, although some can claim a century. All thirteen of the permitted Châteauneuf varieties are planted, with Grenache dominant, accounting for 62% of the red vineyard. Then follows Syrah (18%), Mourvèdre (15%) and Cinsaut (4%), the remaining eligible varieties accounting for only a tiny proportion. Of the white vines, 32% are Roussanne, 28% Clairette, 24% Bourboulenc and 16% Grenache Blanc. The fruit is harvested by hand, with careful attention to ensure each variety is picked at the appropriate time; with so many different varieties in the typical Châteauneuf vineyard, the temptation to save time, money and effort by picking all together is not inconsiderable. Once harvested, it can be seen that the yield is typically in the region of 25-30 hl/ha.

Chateau La NertheThe fruit is brought up to the cellar on a conveyor belt, where it is sorted to eliminate unwanted, spoiled berries, and where it is destemmed. The red grapes are vinified in wood, with pigeage to submerge the floating cap of skins and pips; some but not all varieties will be co-fermented, beginning at around 28ºC and finishing typically at 30 to 35ºC. Once judged by tasting to be ready, the wine is run off by gravity into further vats, either wooden or epoxy-lined stone, for the malolactic fermentation. Subsequent ageing depends on the varieties and style of the wine; in general, wines based on Grenache and Cinsaut age in stone vats, whereas blends of Grenache and Syrah go into large foudres, and those incorporating Mourvèdre into small wooden fûts of Allier oak. The press wine is not incorporated. The white grapes are pressed and the juice fermented in stainless steel or wood, sometimes after a little skin contact. The malolactic fermentation is discouraged for the whites. Once the wines are ready for bottling, they are first assembled, with special attention to the estate's two special cuvées, Les Cuvée des Cadettes and the lesser-known white Clos de Beauvenir, as well as the red and white Château La Nerthe and also the second wine, Granières de la Nerthe. The famed Cuvée des Cadettes is sourced from a plot of vines planted by Ducos, and is mainly Grenache and Syrah, the former slightly dominant, with less Mourvèdre. Like many of the Châteauneuf super-cuvées, it sees new wood, which means some view it as the greatest possible expression of Châteauneuf, whereas others see something quite the opposite. (22/2/07, updated 23/1/08)

Contact details:
Address: 84230 Châteauneuf du Pape
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 90 83 70 11
Fax: +33 (0) 4 90 83 79 69
Internet: www.chateaulanerthe.fr

Château La Nerthe - Tasting Notes

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2004

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2004: There is good appeal on the nose here, warm and welcoming in character, with a feral, savage character. The palate is attractive and composed; the is ripe fruit and a good tannic backbone, countered by a fresh seam of acidity. The fruit has a nice, slightly chalky character and overall it has a decent, lifted feel. I think there is real potential here and I certainly prefer it to the heat of the 2003, tasted below. 17+/20 (November 2007)

2003

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2003: It is immediately apparent on the nose that this is a warm, feral, rich and ripe style, and the palate follows on from this initial impression in the same vein. Underneath this ripe, expansive texture there is a huge core of tannin, as you would expect. Nevertheless I must confess that overall I think the wine has a good substance, and there is some acidity to liven it up a little. A good wine, although devoid of the freshness and vivacity it needs to receive a higher mark than this. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée des Cadettes 2003: A single vineyard cuvée, sourced from a plot of vines including 100-year old Grenache.  This accounts for 47%, with 36% Syrah and 17% Mourvèdre. Lots of baked cherry fruit on the nose, warm with a good, savage appeal. Ripe and warm palate, quite pure and lovely flavour, but it struggles to cover the huge pile of tannins sitting beneath, and there is a spirity seam of alcohol to it. It is for fans of the style only. For me, good, but I score freshness more highly. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

2002

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2002: Rather a nice, fairly lifted nose here, with some freshness of fruit. Similarly fresh herb-tinged fruit on the palate, with considerable texture and weight, but lacking in the concentration to match. Certainly has a clean and vibrant feel which may well reflect the practice of blocking the malolactic. Not a stunner, although perhaps a good effort for the vintage. 15.5/20 (November 2006)

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2002: Rather light in appearance, and light on fruit on the nose too. Burnt sugar, with some cherry Grenache aroma behind it. It has some appeal on the nose I confess, although in a rather unusual fashion. On the palate it has some texture and appealing although simple fruit, a light tannic structure and decent acidity. A little pleasing, but I have very low expectations for the vintage I guess! A decent effort taking that into account. Drink now. 15/20 (November 2006)

2001

Chateau la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2001: This wine has a rich and deep hue, still with plenty of admirable red pigment. Deep quality of fruit on the nose, although I feel I can sense the burn of alcohol here, along with the aromas of macerated cherries, smoke and leather which all have some appeal. Lots of texture on entry, with a firm, hard outer shell, a touch raw perhaps, with a solid backbone of alcohol leading into some heat in the finish. There is a lot of texture and substance though, quite polished, it is even a touch stony and firm at times, although there is a more chewy tannic substance in the finish. Good length but that heat shows again. Some good points here though, especially those cherry and cinnamon elements, and during moments on the palate where the substance of the wine seems to rein in the heat. Nevertheless, I don't rate this wine as highly as I did four years ago. From a 2001 Southern Rhône tasting. 16+/20 (April 2010)

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2001: A dark wine full of complex aromas, liquorice and herbs alongside the deep fruit. Big a lusciously textured on the palate, but with a fine tannic backbone. Complex and meaty. This all seems rather soft and plush at the moment and doesn't really have the delineation of a great wine, but I think it should cellar rather well. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)

2000

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2000: This wine still has a very rich and pigmented colour, and the nose is similarly characterful. It has rich fruit aromas on the nose, with bright but roasted herb nuances, and a little meaty character to it as well. The palate is quite fine, showing a very cool texture on entry, before revealing more substance in the midpalate, plenty of burnt-cherry fruit, good weight and depth, and rather a burnt and sooty but nevertheless enjoyable tannic grip. The finish remains very solid and charcoaly, but it has a fine length that goes on and on. An impressive and enjoyable, fresh and structured wine. Very good. From a 2000 Southern Rhône tasting. 17/20 (September 2009)

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2000: Another rich, earthy colour. Powerful fruit on the nose, with meaty and roasted herb nuances. On the palate it is sweet, ripe, fat and round, but with plenty of firm, tannic structure beneath it all. Tasted alongside wines of the subsequent vintage at a Southern Rhône 2001 tasting. 17+/20 (March 2003)

1999

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 1999: A slightly less rich but still earthy colour. Roasted plums and herbs on the nose. A lovely, elegantly balanced palate, with characterful smoky, cigary fruit. Great structure. Tasted alongside wines of the 2001 vintage at a Southern Rhône 2001 tasting. 17+/20 (March 2003)