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Languedoc Wine Guide Part 1

Central to the Languedoc is the huge Coteaux du Languedoc appellation, a nursery for potential appellations of the future. This is a region in flux, and over the next few years many of the wine regions discussed below will graduate with an appellation of their own, to sit alongside the established crus of Faugeres, St Chinian and Clairette du Languedoc.

Outside the Coteaux du Languedoc are other familiar names of the Languedoc, such as Fitou and Corbières. These will be discussed in detail in my Languedoc Wine Guide Part 2. But first, on with the Coteaux du Languedoc.

Coteaux du Languedoc

The Coteaux du Languedoc is the largest and, I feel, one of the most significant viticultural regions of the Mediterranean vineyards. Created in 1985, it is a catch-all appellation, which is in a state of flux. Although at present the region is a seeming hotchpotch of terroirs, crus and subregions, it is becoming clear with time which regions have true potential. On the back of this knowledge, it is likely that the Coteaux du Languedoc will eventually develop a tiered classification system like Burgundy or Bordeaux. At the bottom of the tier will be the regional zone, basic AC Languedoc, analogous to AC Bordeaux or AC Bourgogne. The whole region will be entitled to this appellation provided basic criteria are met. The next steps up are the subregional zones, of which there are seven, and the communal zones, of which there are presently twelve. Whereas the names of some of the communal zones may sound familiar, the subregional zones, at the time of writing, have not entered everyday use. The three foremost subregional zones are La Clape & Quatourze, Pic St Loup and Grès de Montpellier.

La Clape & Quatourze

The subregional zone of La Clape and Quatourze (incorporating two communal zones of the same name) form two oases of vineyards which lie at the westernmost end of the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation.

The vineyards of La Clape are located around a rocky promontory east of Narbonne, the Massif de la Clape, which was an island until the River Aude silted up in the Middle Ages. The terroir is a mixture of limestone, red clay and gravel. Strict regulations have helped to ensure quality of the wines of La Clape: vines must be five years old before qualifying, and the cépage is strictly controlled. Since 1998 the wines must include at least 70% Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with a minimum 20% Grenache. The rule is 60% for rosé. White wines consist of a minimum 40% Bourboulenc, with Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Picpoul and more making up the balance. Quatourze, meanwhile, is a small region, and the most westerly subregional zone of the Coteaux du Languedoc. The name is said to originate from the local tax rate, which for the impoverished locals was a fourteenth rather than the usual tenth. The vineyards are located on a low plateau, of clay and galets (large, oval stones). This communal zone is of less significance than La Clape, which plays host to some of the top names of the Languedoc, starting with Chateau de la Negly. There are also good wines from  Camplazens, Pech Redon and Moujan.

Pic St Loup

This region, one of the more easterly of the Coteaux du Languedoc, 20 km north of Montpellier, doubles as a subregional and a communal zone. Over the past two decades Pic St Loup has established a very good reputation and it's future is assured. Dominating the skyline here is the fabulous Pic St Loup mountain (left), a dramatic peak that rises to 638 m. The terroir consists of argilo-limestone and poor, stony soils. Wines here must contain at least 90% of the "improving varieties" Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, from vines at least six years old. Other local varieties such as Carignan and Cinsaut may only go into basic Coteaux du Languedoc. It's my opinion that some of the greatest wines that the Languedoc has to offer can be found around the slopes of Pic St Loup. Those of Domaine de l'Hortus seem to have acquired a very good reputation with which I would not disagree, although I also think those from Domaine de Lavabre are superlative. Other very good estates include Valflaunés, Mas Bruguière, Cazeneuve, Lascaux and la Roque.

Grès de Montpellier: St Georges d'Orques

Pic St Loup is just part of a large swathe of vineyards that surrounds Montpellier. To the west is St Georges d'Orques, to the north-east are St Drézery, Vérargues and St Christol, and to the east is La Méjanelle. These latter five communal zones make up the subregional zone of Grès de Montpellier. It is perhaps unsurprising that with such a grand name for their terroir, the vignerons of St Georges d'Orques have established a reputation almost as grand. The wines have been exported across the world in centuries past, and they even crossed the palate of Thomas Jefferson during his time as US Ambassador in France. The vineyards are on gently undulating rather than overtly hilly land west of Montpellier. There is mixed terroir, with pebble drifts in some areas, and limestone and deep red, iron-rich soils in others. The remaining four communes are less significant, and are as follows: La Méjanelle: A small terroir with some history. The vineyards are littered with galets, large rounded stones similar to those found in Châteauneuf du Pape. St Drézery: Another small terroir. At one time the leading estate was Mas de Carrat run by Louis Spitaleri. Now Gerard Bru of Puech-Haut is the name to watch. St Christol: Another small terroir, dominated by the activities of the local co-operative, although there are a number of independent producers of note, such as des Hospataliers and la Coste. Vérargues: The cru Vérargues has just about disappeared from use, and there are no producers of note here. The best domaines start with Domaine de la Prose, which produces some good wines. Other noteworthy estates located around the Grès de Montpellier zone include Chateau St-Jean D'Aumières, Clavel and Peyre Rose; these estates tend to produce their wines under the generic Coteaux de Languedoc appellation rather than one of the subregional ones.

Terrasses du Larzac: Montpeyroux

Of the remaining four subregional zones, it is the Terrasses du Larzac that is probably of most interest. These vineyards form the northern central part of the Coteaux du Languedoc. The more important commune here is Montpeyroux, undoubtedly one of the leading terroirs; along with Pic St Loup and La Clape, the future looks rosy for Montpeyroux. This is despite the fact that fifteen years ago the local co-operative was the only notable producer. But now there a number of high-profile winemakers, some of whom have an international market for their wines. This typifies the pace of change in the Languedoc today. The vineyards, predominantly clay and limestone, are generally on the hillsides. This is hilly terrain - travel a little to the north and you enter the Massif Central. Yields are restricted to less than 50 hl/ha. St Saturnin, meanwhile, resembles the Montpeyroux of old, with only the local co-operative producing any wines of interest. It is a small terroir, with mainly Grenache, Carignan and Cinsaut planted, as well as increasing quantities of Syrah, and a number of varieties not entitled to appellation status. There are a couple of small properties selling the wine independently but most of the output comes from the co-operative. It is undoubtedly Montpeyroux that yields the best wines, with Sylvain Fadat at Domaine d'Aupilhac being one of the appellation leaders. There are also good wines available from Domaine St Andrieu, Aiguelière and Font Caude.

The Best of the Rest

Of the remaining three subregional zones, the vineyards of Pézenas & Cabrières are the better known and longer established. These are ancient vineyards, located south-west of Grès de Montpellier. Cabrières, a small terroir, is the more significant; around the village of Cabrières a few vineyards are planted on the same seam of schist that runs through Faugères and St Chinian. Historically the region has produced pink wines, but as with the rest of the Languedoc focus in recent years has turned towards red, with quality in mind. The other two subregional zones are the Terres de Sommières and Terrasses de Béziers., both fairly recent developments. The former lies at the extreme eastern end of the Coteaux du Languedoc, Mas Montel is the most noteworthy producer. The latter surrounds Béziers at the western end, close to the vineyards of La Clape. As with Gres de Montpellier there are a number of significant estates here bottling wines under the generic Coteaux de Languedoc appellation rather than any of the subregional zones. Prieuré de St Jean de Bebian and Domaine du Pech Rome both turn out wines of very high quality, although in the case of the latter the prices a a touch prohibitive, especially in a region renowned for affordability and good value.

Picpoul de Pinet

In addition to the seven subregional zones, there is another region which seems to lie outside this classification. This is Picpoul de Pinet, seemingly an anomaly, a small island of white wine production in a sea of red, Picpoul de Pinet has a reputation based on the white grape Picpoul that stretches back as far as the 17th century. Of the numerous communal zones, only Picpoul de Pinet applies solely to white wines, although whites are permitted under the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation. The reason is the terroir, which is a mixture of limestone, sand and clay, which is far more suited to the cultivation of white varieties than red. Only the Picpoul grape qualifies for the terroir - probably soon to have full appellation status - other white varieties, and all red grapes, go into Coteaux du Languedoc or vin de pays. There are two domaines that I am familiar with, and which turn out wines eminently suitable for the local seafood. These are St Martin de la Garrigue and Félines Jourdan.

The Crus of the Coteaux du Languedoc

The crus of the Coteaux du Languedoc are Faugères, St Chinian and Clairette du Languedoc, all three existing prior to the creation of the Coteaux du Languedoc AC in 1985. They lie in a large swathe of vineyards north of Narbonne and Beziers, reaching right up to Terrasses du Larzac. Faugères and St Chinian were created in 1982, whereas the Clairette du Languedoc is one of the oldest appellations, having been created in 1948.

St Chinian is the more westerly of the three crus, and it has a history of viticulture that stretches back to the ninth century. The terroir is schistous in the north, resulting in a lighter style, and a mixture of clay and limestone in the south, producing more substantial tannic wines. The leading wines are dominated by the "improving varieties" Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. There are no St Chinian crus at present but it is likely that these will develop in time. There are very good wines here from estates such as Mas Champart, Canet Valette and Clos Bagatelle. To the east of St Chinian lies Faugères, an appellation blessed with a number of quality-minded producers. The terroir is schistous, the same seam of schist mentioned under St Chinian and Cabrières above. The "improving varieties" cover half of those vineyards which are planted. The wines are red - whites are bottled as AC Coteaux du Languedoc, although some producers, such as the Vidal family of Chateau la Liquiere, are trying to stimulate the development of an appellation for white Faugeres. Again, there are some very good domaines here, taking advantage of the schistous soil. Domaine Alquier and Chateau de la Liquiere are two of the better names. Finally, Clairette du Languedoc is an unusual but well established appellation, where only the white Clairette, a sensitive grape which requires careful handling and protection from oxidation, is permitted. The subregions which contain vineyards eligible for the Clairette du Languedoc appellation are Pézenas & Cabrières and Terrasses du Larzac. Unfortunately the appellation regulations do not stipulate method of vinification, and as a result there is no one identifiable style of wine.

Coteaux du Languedoc: The Future

Unlike other regions of France, where the appellations are close to being written in stone, the Languedoc is a region in a state of flux. No doubt within a few years this guide will be sadly out of date. So what's likely to change? Primarily, the aim of motivated producers in regions such as Picpoul de Pinet, La Clape, Pic St Loup, Montpeyroux and St Georges d'Orques is to attain appellation status for their respective communal zone, to push it up alongside the established crus of Faugères and St Chinian. Hence their wines will be labelled as AC Pic St Loup, for instance, rather than AC Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St Loup. With appellation status comes increased demands, but these producers are quality-minded and already work to stricter regulations than for basic Coteaux du Languedoc, such as lower yields, restrictions on the age of vines (six years instead of the usual three) and selection of grape varieties. The benefits are increased recognition for their wines and, most probably, higher prices.

As the communes become better known, vignerons will feel the need to differentiate their cuvée from their neighbours, or from their own lesser wines. Hence, the pinnacle of quality is likely to be individual vineyards or terroirs within the communal zones, although it is unlikely that these will receive their own appellation to match those of Montrachet, Coulée de Serrant or Château Grillet. Nevertheless, the seeds of this progress are sown, and many quality-conscious producers are already labelling their cuvées according to vineyard or terroir of origin.

• Next instalment: Languedoc Wine Guide Part 2.

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