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Italian Wine Guide

Making an Italian wine guide that covers the whole of the country in just one web page is almost an impossible task. There is hardly an inch of Italy that couldn't ripen grapes suitable for wine, and consequently there are a myriad of classified regions producing a diverse array of wines, some of which are rarely seen outside of Italy. Consequently, this guide to Italian wine focuses just on the country's most prominent wines. I deal with each Italian wine region in turn, from the expensive and age-worthy wines of Barolo in the north, to the bargain glugging wines of the south. But first, a note on the Italian wine classifications.

The classification system for Italian wine mirrors that for French. Italian wines to be found in the UK are generally Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) or Denominazione di Origine Controllata et Garantita (DOCG). These levels correspond with the Appellation (d'Origine) Contrôlée wines of France, the DOCG wines supposedly with an extra degree of quality. The fairly recent qualification of Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) corresponds to France's Vin de Pays wines, whereas the lowest category for Italian wine, Vina da Tavola, accounts for the table wines. Unusually this latter category has in the past included some of Italy's top wines, as quality conscious wine makers were excluded from the DOC or DOCG categories because of the grapes or wine making practices they used. The Italian wine region where these latter two have been most concentrated is around Chianti in Tuscany, the wines frequently referred to as 'super-Tuscans'. The relaxation of the DOC and DOCG regulations in 1992, together with the creation of the IGT category, was intended to bring the winemakers behind these 'super-Tuscans' back into the fold. In general it hasn't worked.

Northern Italy

The northwest of Italy is divided into four regions, Valle d-Aosta, Lombardy, Liguria and Piedmont. This latter may be regarded by some as the most significant Italian wine region, for it is the origin of perhaps the greatest Italian red wine, Barolo. This is a frequently age-worthy wine made from the Nebbiolo grape, which may be searingly tannic in its youth. Many of the wines produced deserve ten or fifteen years of cellaring. Many producers now bottle single vineyard cuvées as well as basic bottlings.
My top wines: The cream of the crop include Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Enzo Boglietti, Pio Cesare, Vietti, Elvio Cogno, Mascarello, Luciano Sandrone and Angelo Gaja. Other good producers I have experienced include Fontanafredda, Michele Chiarlo, Prunotto, Poderi Colla (one-time owner of Prunotto), Luigi Einaudi, Marcarini and Massolino (Vigna Rionda).

Nearby is Barbaresco, another red wine made from Nebbiolo, which is more approachable in youth and may also more affordable - although top examples still command a high price. Barolo and Barbaresco may be designated as Riserva if aged in barrel for four years or three years respectively. Both Barolo and Barbaresco are DOCG wines.
My top wines: Marchesi di Grésy can turn out some good wines, Angelo Gaja leads on quality and price.

There are other important wines made in Piedmont apart from Barolo and Barbaresco, many of which are unconventional blends, or use international varieties. In particular Gaja, responsible in part at least for revolutionising wine making (and wine prices) in Piedmont makes Sito Moresco (Nebbiolo, Barbera and Merlot) under the Langhe DOC as well as a number of fine Barolo and Barbesco cuvées. La Spinetta makes Pin (Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet) under the catch-all (designed to bring these producers into the fold) DOC Monferrato Rosso.
My top wines: La Spinetta (Pin), Gaja (Sito Moresco and Darmagi).

Map of northern Italy After Nebbiolo, Piedmont's second grape is Barbera (used in the blends mentioned above). Great value wines can also be sourced from the a number of top producers who bottle under the Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti DOCs. The third most important grape is Dolcetto - the occasional Dolcetto d'Alba can be wonderful, although most are light, quaffing wines.
My top wines: Aldo Conterno and Enzo Boglietti both produce lovely Barbera and Dolcetto.

Think of sparkling Italian wine and you're thinking of Asti (once known as Asti Spumante), an off-dry sparkling white wine made in Piedmont from the Muscat grape. The wine is often of poor quality, although good examples can rarely be found. Also there is Gavi, a dry white made from the Cortese grape.
My top wines: Rovero (Asti), Sparina (Gavi).

In the northeast there are three Italian wine regions, but like the northwest only one of them is of great importance. This is Veneto, the other two being Trentino-Alto Adife and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, often abbreviated to Friuli. The latter two produce some pleasant varietal wines, and there are a few stars - such as Silvio Jermann in Friuli. In Veneto, however, there are a few DOC areas worth a little more attention.

The vast majority of Italian wine is red, but there are also some wonderful white wines. Of all Italian white wine, those from the much maligned Soave region are perhaps the best known. These wines are made from the Garganega and Trebbiano grapes. Neither grape is a stunner, yet a few producers can fashion a wine head and shoulders above the usual dross. If you see a wine from one of my recommended producers, it is certainly worth a try. Recioto di Soave, also from this region, is a sweet white wine, strangely accorded the DOCG status, made from partially dried grapes.
My top wines: Pieropan, Anselmi, Prà. Inama make some good wines.

Nearby is Valpolicella, a red wine DOC. Straight Valpolicella may be a pleasant easy drinking red, whereas Valpolicella Classico (from the central region) and Superiore (which denotes a higher alcohol content) may be a little more substantial. Recioto della Valpolicella is a red wine made here, but clearly way out in front is Amarone della Valpolicella. Both of these wines are made from air-dried grapes, predominantly the Corvina variety, and fermented out to dryness for the Amarone, whilst the Recioto is kept sweet. They are concentrated, complex, and frequently beguiling. Basic Valpolicella, once made, may be passed over the lees of a Recioto or Amarone wine giving a slight refermentation, producing what can be a beguiling red wine known as a Ripasso di Valpolicella. This DOC is in the running for top Italian red wine bargain, as a good producer will often fashion a mini-Amarone at a fraction of the price of the real thing.
My top wines: DOC leaders are Allegrini, Tommaso Bussola, Romano dal Forno and Quintarelli. Good value, typicity and the occasionally great wine may be had from Cà del Pipa, Speri, Tedeschi, Zenato, Brigaldara, Campagnola (Caterina Zardini cuvée), Tommasi and Masi.

Central Italy

The central regions of Italy are responsible for what is probably the best known of all Italian red wine, Chianti. This DOCG wine hails from Tuscany, probably the best known and most travelled Italian wine region, as it is home to such beautiful destinations as Florence and Pisa. Chianti is made from the Sangiovese grape, with small amounts of other grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, also permissible. The best wines are from the Chianti Classico subregion, but others are also worth trying, particularly Chianti Rufina. The very best wines are aged for longer before release, and are designated Riserva, and these are from the Classico and Rufina regions. So-called 'Super-Tuscans' - wines made outside the DOC/DOCG rules - can offer top quality, but often at a price, eg Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, Cepparello.
My top wines: My favourite producers include Fonterutoli, Felsina, Fontodi, Antinori, Castello di Brolio, Isole e Olena. Good value wines also from Cafaggio.

Map of central Italy From nearby Montalcino comes Brunello di Montalcino, another famous Italian red wine which, like Chianti, is another DOCG wine made from Sangiovese (Brunello is the local name for this grape). If aged for five years before release it may be designated Riserva. Rosso di Montalcino is another red wine made here, but is intended to be consumed in its youth. If from a good producer it can represent good value for money.
My top wines: Argiano, Brunelli, Casanova di Neri, Costanti, Biondi Santi.

Not too far from Montalcino is Montepulciano, home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, another impressive Italian red wine DOCG, again made from Sangiovese - it is not to be confused with wines made from the Montepulciano grape. Vino Nobile has a reputation for being austere, but from the best producers it can be wonderful.
My top wines: Avignonesi, Boscarelli, Poliziano.

Outside of the three most important regions in Tuscany - Chianti, Montalcino & Montepulciano - there are a number of regions along the coast which are also home to some delicious, good value and also serious wines. The DOC Morellino di Scansano (Morellino is another regional name for Sangiovese) is the longest established and most well known. If looking for Italian red wine at a bargain price this can be a good hunting ground.
My top wines: Le Pupille.

Outside of Tuscany the regions of Emilia-Romagna, Umbria and Latium produce some of the most infamous of all Italian wines. Many of us have experienced the produce of these Italian wine regions, as from the former comes Lambrusco and from Latium comes Frascati, two of the most abused names in Italian wine making. There are some good wines to be found though. From the Marches come Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno, both red wines made from Montepulciano in combination with other grapes, and both can be good value. Verdicchio is the grape largely responsible for the regions best known white wine, Verdicchio and Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Both can be good drinking. From Abruzzi comes Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, a reliable red wine, also made from the Montepulciano grape.
My top wines: Moroder (Rosso Conero), Sarteralli, Garofoli (both Verdicchio), Valentini, Marruchina (both Montepulciano d'Abruzzo).

Southern Italy

In the south the production centres around red wine, which may rival the wines of the south of France for interest and good value. There are few wines of interest in Molise, Campania, Basilicata or Calabria but Puglia (Apulia) is a more rewarding hunting ground.

Map of southern Italy The DOCs of Castel del Monte, Salice Salentino, Copertino and Primitivo di Manduria have the best reputation. There is little wine of interest on Sardinia, but Sicily is an Italian wine region on the up. Known for its fortified wine Marsala, the table wines are improving in quality. These are often made outside the DOC regulations as Vina da Tavola or IGT wines. Sicilian white wine, from a top producer such as Planeta, can rival the red wine for quality.
My top wines: Copertino Co-operative (Copertino), Candido (Salice Salentino), Rivera (Castel del Monte), Planeta (Sicily).

Vintages

It's impossible to generalise with regard to vintages for Italian wine, as we are dealing with such a huge country. Vintage conditions differ for each Italian wine region. Good vintages for Barolo and Barbaresco include 1985, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1993, and most years of the late 1990s. With regard to Chianti, again many vintages of the late 1990s have been successful, with 1997 the most lauded. Of recent years only 1991 and 1992 are worth avoiding.