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Domaines Bunan

Take a left turn off the D559 just outside of Bandol - the domaine is signposted - and pass immediately beneath the autoroute which cuts a swathe through the Provençal countryside north of the town. It's a small, single lane tunnel with a semi-circular mouth, which opens out on the other side to reveal a road of similar width, which winds its way into the hills above Bandol. Follow the ascent of the track. Keep following it.....keep following it. Follow the signs, and where there are no signs (not that often, to be fair) follow your nose. Just as the thought that you must have missed it enters your head, you will arrive at Domaines Bunan, high in the wooded hills.

Domaines Bunan is home to the Bunan brothers, Paul and Pierre, who left Algeria in 1961 and purchased the estate on their arrival in France. There are in fact three Bandol domaines under their control, although only two under their ownership; these are Moulin des Costes and Mas/Chateau de la Rouvière. The third, Domaine de Belouve, they manage on a tenancy basis for the owner. There is much to do here, and they are fortunate in now being joined by the next generation; Paul's son trained in Beaune and Napa before returning to join his father and uncle and now plays a major role in developing the family domaines. Since then his sister, Françoise, and Pierre's daughter Claire have also joined the team, largely with marketing and PR responsibilities.

The heart of Domaines Bunan is Moulin des Costes; here the harvest from the three domaines is vinified, separately, and subsequently aged and bottled. The Moulin des Costes Bandol is predominantly Mourvèdre, typically 70-75%, and will include Grenache to make up the balance, the exact blend depending on the vintage. The Mas de la Rouvière tends to have less Mourvèdre. Each wine is destemmed and fermented in stainless steel, with up to three weeks of soak, before eighteen months in foudres followed by a light filtration and bottling. Each domaine also has it's super-cuvée; in exceptional vintages there is Chateau de la Rouvière, almost exclusively (usually 98%) Mourvèdre. The Moulin des Costes Charriage has a similar blend. In addition to the red cuvées there are white (not tasted) and rosé; the latter I found can be very good.

My visit here was instructive, and I found the Bunan family to be warm and receptive. I was pleasantly taken aback by the quality of some of the wines, which was very good. Overall I felt the Rouvière cuvées I tasted to outstrip the others in terms of quality; the rosé was finer, approximating to the quality found at Tempier or Bandol (although not quite there), with that same emphasis on structure and interesting aroma, rather than deep colour and flavour, which marks the finest pink Bandol. The red was excellent, showing great typicité and Mourvèdre character, and is well deserving of cellar time. (20/10/05)

Contact details:
Address: 83740 La Cadière d'Azur
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 94 98 58 98
Fax: +33 (0) 4 94 98 60 05
Internet: www.bunan.com

Domaines Bunan - Tasting Notes

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2004

Moulin des Costes Bandol Rosé 2004: Good, although rather bold, colour. Leafy red fruit nose, rather simple but easy to appreciate. Dry, with fresh acidity, and a good fruit profile. Firm, appealing, liquorice-laced finish. This has its good points. Drink now. 15+/20 (August 2005)

Chateau de la Rouvière Bandol Rosé 2004: A paler, more subtle hue when compared with the Moulin des Costes. A less expressive nose; more restrained, more refined, with a finer structure on the palate. A little reticent perhaps, but with some good style. Drink now. 15.5/20 (August 2005)

2001

Moulin des Costes Bandol 2001: Mourvèdre 75%, Grenache 25%. A dark hue, with a dark fruit nose. Brooding, stony, with a great presence of dark, roasted fruits. Ripe, mouth-filling, but with fairly low acidity. A warm, ripe wave of tannins on the midpalate gives some welcome structure. Good, with very good potential. 16+/20 (August 2005)

Moulin des Costes Bandol 'Charriage' 2001: Mourvèdre 98%, Grenache 2%. A cuvée from old vines on specific plots. First into barrique, then into 600 l casks. Very dark wine. Sweet, roasted meat on the nose, still showing plenty of sweet oak. Somewhat international in style. Lovely palate though, intense and with great extract, and lovely ripe tannin. A very different style, with great intrinsic quality, although divergent from my preferred style of Bandol. 17.5+/20 (August 2005)

Chateau de la Rouvière Bandol 2001: Mourvèdre 98%, Grenache 2%. A very dark hue; great colour. What a fantastic nose. Showing super typicity, with plenty of animal fur and roast meat style. Very sauvage. Firm palate; lovely fruit, weighty presence, with a wealth of ripe tannins. Great concentration, and fine balance too. Delicious and approachable now there is so much fruit, but would do very well in the cellar for a decade. Great potential. 18+/20 (August 2005)