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Bandol 2005: Conclusion

So concludes the notes from my brief sojourn in Bandol this summer. The trip was a fruitful one, taking in two old favourites, Tempier and Pibarnon, and two domaines new to me, Bunan and Ray-Jane. The sheer quality offered by Bandol was exemplified by the first two estates, and to a lesser extent Domaines Bunan, as each put on a tasting of exemplary wines. I was particularly taken with Pibarnon, where I tasted the grand vin in three vintages. All three were very good indeed, and this is without creaming off the product of certain vineyards for special super-cuvées as is practiced at Tempier, where La Tourtine, Migoua and Cabassaou are the pinnacles of this estate's production. But with excellent white and rosés as well, Pibarnon led the pack on the day; I came away thoroughly impressed with quality across the board.

One disconcerting feature of Provence, compared to my more regular haunt the Loire, is just how crowded this region has become. Look along the Mediterranean coastline and you will see houses and apartments jostling for a seaside position, or at least a sea view. With all the choice spots now occupied, construction firms look inland for their next project, and that means the hills around Bandol have fallen under their gaze. Having risen from near-demise and certainly obscurity, saved by the dedication of Lucien Peyraud, Bandol as an appellation is once more under threat. Difficult decisions face many, especially as new generations move into position as head of these family concerns; should you continue with the vineyards, or sell your increasingly valuable real estate in return for the sort of riches you could only dream about as a vigneron? Only continued support for producers of quality will keep this unique island of Mourvèdre from sinking beneath the waves of the property developers. I intend to do my bit, but this is by no means a charitable activity; the wines are genuinely lovely to drink, particularly with some time in the cellar. Salut! (3/11/05)

Bandol 2005: I visit four top domaines...

Part 1: Introduction.

Part 2: Domaine Tempier: appellation leader.

Part 3: Domaine Ray-Jane: great wine museum, but what about the wines?

Part 4: Domaines Bunan: Moulin des Costes and Rouvière.

Part 5: Chateau de Pibarnon: the new king of Bandol?

Part 6: Conclusion.