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Ramos Pinto

Adriano Ramos Pinto founded this Port house, which still bears his name today, in 1880, at the tender age of 21. This was a marked change in direction for this young man, who was of an artistic leaning, but nevertheless his new business was successful. Ramos Pinto moved up the export league table, with much of the wine going to South America, particularly Brazil, a favoured market for Adriano. By 1896 his accomplishment was sufficiently evident for his brother, Antonio Ramos Pinto, who made his living running a photographic studio, to join him in the new family business. The Ramos Pinto descendants ran the company after Adriano and Antonio, one of the more noteworthy figures being José Ramos Pinto Rosas, who joined the firm in 1938. José went on to be Chairman of the Board, and was a driving force behind several local bodies including the Association for the Development of Douro Viticulture, of which he was still president when he died in 1996. By this time Ramos Pinto was in the hands of the Roederer group, who purchased the business in 1990.

Over the years Ramos Pinto has come to stand for many things; the company has a reputation for innovation as well as investing considerably in the preservation of local culture and heritage, as evinced by the museums in Vila Nova de Gaia (the original offices) and at Quinta de Evramoira, at the heart of the Vale do Cõa, in the upper Douro. It was the aforementioned José Ramos Pinto Rosas that purchased the Quinta de Santa Maria, renamed Evramoira, in 1974. The land here was fairly flat, which allowed José to trial methods of mechanisation, as well as experimentation with planting in rows, running up and down the gentle slopes at Evramoira, rather than the traditional method of planting along terraces. Ramos Pinto also established multiple trial plots to investigate the suitability of the Douro's numerous grape varieties, pioneering work for several reasons. Firstly, even at this time Ramos Pinto were looking beyond Port, and were assessing the suitability of these varieties for table wine. Secondly, even in the 20th Century it was quite common to find vineyards planted as field blends, using many of the then 48 permitted varieties (today there are nine), all ripening at different times; the upshot is that the harvest will always have an average rather than an optimum ripeness. Planting in blocks according to variety conferred an obvious advantage, and of the twelve varieties planted at Evramoira, five were selected as being of superior quality. The consequences of the research were far reaching; the results played an important role in securing funding from the World Bank to finance vineyard expansion in the upper Douro.

Today Quinta de Evramoira, one of two Ramos Pinto quintas in the upper reaches of the Douro, remains a very significant site; despite this, it was under threat of submersion by the construction of a new dam and reservoir, until this project was cancelled in 1996. Its future then assured, the new role of Quinta de Evramoira as a cultural centre, as well as a vineyard, really took off. This region of ancient terraced vineyards is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site; rock art in this region is evidence of human habitation stretching back for millennia, and the museum displays artefacts from at least the 3rd Century, as well as playing host to annual scientific meetings. This is quite fitting in view of Evramoira's history as a site for experimentation and innovation. There are 150 ha of vines here in all, averaging 15 years of age, including 16% Tinta Barroca, 13% Touriga Francesca, 13% Tinta Roriz, 10% Tinta de Barca and 23% Touriga Nacional, the balance being an old-fashioned field blend. The second upper Douro quinta is the Quinta dos Bon Ares, an ancient site dating back to Roman occupation, purchased by Ramos Pinto in 1985. Here there are 20 ha of vines for table wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, among others. The dominant variety, however, is Viozinho, a white grape. Downstream, in the Cima Corgo, are two more quintas; Quinta do Bom Retiro (above), purchased in 1919, is a 109 ha site with 62 ha of cultivated vineyards. The vines are of an average age of 25 years, and feature 25% Tinta Barroca, 15% Touriga Francesca, 20% Tinta Roriz and 20% Touriga Nacional, again the balance is a field blend. Just next door, meanwhile, is the Quinta da Urtiga, purchased in 1933, planted with a field blend of red varieties, the vines here being somewhat older at an average 70 years.

As can be imagined there is a large portfolio here, comprising both table wines and traditional fortified styles, white, tawny and red. There are two lines of table wines;

• Duas Quintas; a red, a reserva and a white. Made using fruit from two quintas, as suggested by the name; Evramoira and Bons Ares. The red is Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Francesca, whereas the reserva is predominantly Touriga Nacional, with a little Tinta Barroca. The white is a blend of indigenous varieties including Viozinho, Rabigato and Arinto.
• Bon Ares; a red and a white. The former is 60% Touriga Nacional, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter Viozinha with Sauvignon Blanc, fermented partly in stainless steel, partly in new oak.

The fortified styles, meanwhile run a gamut from dry and sweet white, through a range of tawnies and a ruby, the Reserva Collector (a non-vintage blend averaging five years of age), late-bottled vintage and of course single vintage. Some can be very good indeed; I have particularly enjoyed the tawnies, which have a lifted character, lighter than some other houses, but with an appealing freshness which I find very attractive. They include a 10 year old and 20 year old, each single quinta wines, and a 30 year old blend. (31/8/06)

Contact details:
Address: Av. Ramos Pinto, no. 400, Vila Nova de Gaia
Telephone: +351 223 70700
Fax: +351 223 775099
Internet: www.ramospinto.pt

Ramos Pinto - Tasting Notes

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Duas Quintas Reserva Colheita 2005: This wine is produced by Ramos Pinto; I am familiar with their Ports, but not the table wines. Touriga Nacional accounts for 80% of this blend, with 15% Touriga Franca and 5% Tinta Barroca. The nose isn't particularly expressive, showing only subtle deep-red fruits. The palate is gently creamy with ripe structure beneath, and has a very savoury and appealing flavour. An attractive composition, but on the critical side rather loose-knit and oily. It may be a little closed too, judging by the lack of aromatic impact. From a tasting of 50 Great Portuguese Wines. 15.5+?/20 (April 2009)

Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 2003: This has a beautiful colour typical of the young wines of this vintage. The Ramos Pinto style shows through on the nose, with a slightly earthy, concentrated, rather feral fruit on the nose. This has great character! Lovely presence on the palate, although not quite the impact or concentration that one might expect from a 2003 Vintage Port. Nevertheless it is very good, and the massive core of tannins which dominate the finish should see this do very nicely in the cellar for 20 years or more. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Ramos Pinto Late Bottled Vintage Port 1998: A moderate depth of colour, showing nicely ripe fruit although with an earthy twist. A smooth, integrated style on the palate, showing lots of ripe flavour in a moderately concentrated format, but overall rather straightforward. Good though, for current drinking. 16/20 (November 2005)

Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 1983: A very elegant nose here, showing elements of cigar and beetroot fruit. This leads to a finely textured palate, smoothly integrated with a very gentle attack which I like. Still showing a vein of tannin on the midpalate, framing a core of fine, cigar and tobacco-tinged flavour. This is made in a style I find particularly attractive. Approachable now, but should drink well for a decade or more. 18/20 (November 2005)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Ramos Pinto Quinta de Ervamoira 10 Year Old Tawny NV: Latest release. A golden amber hue with a red tinge at the core. A big, baked earth nose, with plenty of spiced, leathery fruit character. Full, quite straightforward style on the palate, but with a good presence in the mouth, nicely poised and with good typicity. A delightful tawny in a fresh style, this is very good. For current drinking. 16.5/20 (November 2005)

Ramos Pinto Quinta do Bom Retiro 20 Year Old Tawny NV: Latest release. A pink amber hue to this wine, less vibrant than the 10 year old, but with a more intense and focused nose of baked earth, sandalwood and spiced cedar. Lovely presence on the palate, full and concentrated, very broad and expressive. Baked, spicy wood flavour. A fresh and yet really firm style. Very good indeed. 17/20 (November 2005)

Ramos Pinto 30 Year Old Tawny NV: Latest release. A golden hue, with an aged, amber core. Very dense macerated-baked fruit on the nose. A very earthy, deeply concentrated style with a big, almost creamy consistency, and yet a fine, mineral elegance too. This just has the edge on the 20 year old, and it also maintains the fresh, lively style, despite its age. This is very good indeed. 17.5/20 (November 2005)