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Fonseca

The Port house of Fonseca originated in the 18th Century as the Fonseca & Monteiro Company, but did not acquire the Guimaraens suffix until the early 19th Century when, in 1822, the business was acquired by a Manuel Pedro Guimaraens through the acquisition of a majority of the Fonseca shares. Control was thus ceded to the incoming Guimaraens, although as a condition of the takeover the outgoing Fonseca stipulated that his name should remain attached to the company, as it has done to this day. The early days of Manuel Pedro's tenure were not easy, however, as he was soon forced to flee Portugal because of his political allegiances. He reputedly escaped the country hidden in a wine barrel (what other way would there be?), subsequently taking up residence in England. He continued to run his business from his new location, as did his descendents after him. The business flourished despite Manuel Pedro's displacement, growing to become the largest international shipper of Port by 1840, and in 1847 they began what was to be a long history of shipping to England. This continued long after 1927, when the family and business eventually returned to Portugal.

At this time it was Frank Guimaraens, Manuel Pedro's grandson, who was responsible for making the wine, as he had been since the 1896 vintage. He continued through to 1948, at which point the company was merged with Taylor's, and he was succeeded by his daughter, Dorothy, who oversaw the 1955 vintage. The next generation to take over was Bruce Duncan Guimaraens, great-great grandson of the founder, who made every vintage from 1960 through to the 1992. The most recent handover of responsibility was with the 1994 vintage, when Bruce Duncan's son, David Guimaraens, the sixth generation to be involved in the family business, assumed his new role. This is a remarkable lineage which can only serve to positively benefit the wines of Fonseca. The company, however, which is part of the Fladgate Partnership alongside Taylor's (as well as Croft and Delaforce), is managed by Adrian Bridge.

Today Fonseca Guimaraens remains one of the most important Port houses, the top wines occasionally challenging for wine of the vintage along with Taylor's and the better wines from the Symington stable, particularly Graham's. David Guimaraens not only oversees winemaking, but has also been instrumental in improving practice in the vineyard, with attentive selection of vines, enhancing the selection at harvest and introducing new carriers to protect the fruit as it travels from vineyard to winery. He has also been responsible for modernising the cellar, introducing new temperature-controlled vinification vats designed in-house. These are known as port-toes, a name which gives a clue to their vital feature, piston-driven paddles to replicate the foot pressing of old. Their use is restricted to only non-vintage wines such as Bin 27, originally a vintage character wine but now designated as Premium Reserve in the Fonseca portfolio. Although first released in 1972, the blend originated in the 19th Century and had up until its commercial release been reserved for private consumption by the Guimaraens family. The fruit is sourced from Fonseca-owned vineyards in the Cima Corgo, and blended with a healthy quantity of reserve wines before release, when it is ready for drinking. There is also a white Port, Siroco, a crusted style, a tawny with an average age of ten years and the newest addition to the portfolio, Terra Prima, a non-vintage organic port with an average age of five years. But these are of less interest than the vintage wines which start with the LBV, introduced in 1983, and the top vintage ports. In non-declared vintages there are two vintage wines produced in the traditional style; firstly Guimaraens, which is produced in exactly the same manner as the vintage Fonseca in declared vintages, using fruit from a small number of Fonseca vineyards which include Quinta de Sao António and Quinta do Cruzeiro. Meanwhile, the harvest at Quinta do Panascal, a prized vineyard in the Tavora Valley which was purchased by the company in 1978 (although Fonseca had been purchasing the grapes harvested here long before then) is vinified and sold as a single quinta wine.

Looking throughout the Fonseca portfolio it is clear that there are many wines here which would satisfy those looking for an off-the-shelf port, with the Bin 27 being a very good example of what can be achieved with skilful blending. The wines tend to display the house style at all levels, which is rich, rounded, expansive. When I started out drinking port I often thought of Fonseca as being the feminine side of the Fladgate partnership, certainly in comparison to Taylor's. But the wines have an undeniable style of their own which should not be defined by mere comparison to other houses, with the vintage wines being particularly successful over the past two or three decades. (13/2/07)

Contact details:
Address: Rua Barão de Forrester 404, 4400 Vila Nova de Gaia
Telephone: +351 2 371 9999
Internet: www.fonseca.com

Fonseca - Tasting Notes

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Fonseca Unfiltered LBV 2000: Less expressive than the preceding wines. Nevertheless, similarly sweet and round on the palate, but here more obvious structure, a touch less flattering texture and extract though. That might be a good thing. Grippy fruit, creamy finish, rather appealing. 16+/20 (November 2006)

Fonseca Late Bottled Vintage Port 1996: A very darkly coloured wine. Class on the nose, with charred, toasty aromas lying at ease with plenty of molasses and black fruit. The palate is big and round, well structured with correct tannins and acidity, a sweet edge to the fruit and an almost creamy texture. From a Majestic press tasting. 15.5/20 (November 2001)

Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port 1987: Sightly herbaceous-stemmy, spirity-woody nose, which has some appeal, but the wine really picks up on the palate which has an admirable combination of texture and quite well balanced acidity, although to be critical it is a touch on the soft side. This engenders a quite seductive mouthfeel, and overall this is a really nice package. There is a little force to the finish and this will cope with being left in the cellar for some time, but I see no reason not to drink it now. 17/20 (November 2006)

Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port 1987: Dark, vibrant, cherry red-black hue. Dark and stemmy nose, with spiced black fruits and a little note of molasses. Good creamy entry, with fine structure and firm alcohol. Dark damson and plum fruit notes, with a nice tarry spice. This still rich, creamy and a little tannic, with acidity just slightly down. Improves greatly with a little air. Drink now and over the next eight years. 17/20 (November 2005)

Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port 1986: In undeclared vintages Fonseca bottle Guimaraens, provided the quality of the fruit is sufficient. This has a good depth of colour, with a moderate red-tawny hue. The nose has exotic notes of musky scent and spiced woods, together with some chocolate edged fruit. The palate has an impressive texture and sweetness immediately apparent on entry. Good fruit and a nice backbone of soft tannins. Elegant, with a touch of complexity, with balance, very much in the house style. 16.5/20 (March 2004) Label

Fonseca Vintage Port 1985: This wine has a beautiful and vibrant colour, showing little sign of age unlike some of its peers here. The nose throws out a sequence of fleeting delights, moments of violets and flower petals which return intermittently, perfumed and crunchy black fruits, blackberries and raspberries. It has a chalky freshness, and a bright and fresh character. It has a fabulous confidence, and this is shown very nicely on the palate which has a defined structure, broad, rich, fleshy and sweet, but framed by excellent acidity. Firmly composed, and although a touch spirity at first this soon settles to leave a really good, maturing Port with a fine, savoury length. Still on the way up, for sure. From a 1985 Vintage Port tasting. 18.5+/20 (March 2009)

Fonseca Vintage Port 1985: This has a lovely nose of maturing port, finely styled and just screaming quality. The palate carries a svelte texture, with a creamy, flattering character. There is purity, balance, a clean, bright quality and despite this lots of appealing grip. This has great impact, and yet is so welcoming and alluring. Excellent wine, and a great example of the vintage. 18.5/20 (November 2006)

Fonseca Vintage Port 1985: Another dark purple wine, also with impressively thick, oily legs. The nose is rich, laden with molasses, toasty hints of oak and good fruit. The palate has a lovely weight and beautiful fruit. The alcohol is still quite fiery and a little coarse, but looking past this the wine has a good, smooth texture through to the finish. Good length. Another wine that still needs time. From a 1985 Port tasting. 18+/20 (October 2000)

Fonseca Vintage Port 1983: A moderate colour. Quite an unusual, very tertiary nose, with aromas of cabbage, cod liver oil and a hint of toffee. A very harmonious palate on entry, with gentle, spicy tannins through the midpalate. A lovely texture, elegant rather than lush, balanced and very fluid. The tannins becomes more apparent on the finish. It seems much less complex and developed on the palate than the nose would suggest, and there are still some notes of black fruits. A moderate length. Drinking now. From a 1983 Port tasting. 17/20 (February 2004)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Fonseca Bin 27 NV: This wine has sweet and macerated fruit on the nose, initially with a little confectionery and violets, nevertheless very traditional and perhaps a touch spirity. The palate is also spirity at first, but with time this dissipates, leaving plenty of fruit, a moderate substance and a gently creamy midpalate. There is plenty of peppery grip, good acidity and a very firm, perhaps slightly hard structure. All in all though it has a nice style, with good substance to it, plenty of dark, tobacco-laced fruits and an attractive roasted-herb edge. Good. From a tasting of Port for Winter. 15.5/20 (November 2008)

Fonseca Siroco NV: Latest release. A fairly deep golden hue, with a strong mineral depth on the nose, and plainly an oxidised style. Full, rich, quite sweet, textured, rather plump but well defined nevertheless. Quite a powerful style which certainly has appeal, and should be a port of call for fans of white port. 17/20 (November 2006)

Fonseca Bin 27 NV: Latest release. An open and approachable style on the nose here, with plenty of deep blackberry and blueberry fruit which on the palate is presented in a rather soft, rounded, sweet style, quite a firm extract but despite this but a great focus. But it has appeal I expect will continue to fly off the shelves. 15.5/20 (November 2006)

Fonseca Terra Prima (Organic Reserve) NV: Latest release. A very light and lifted, sweet, herbaceous cherry fruit nose. On the palate though it has more richness than the nose might suggest, with a sweet, creamy style, full of fruit, attractive, but rather short on grip. Towards the finish though it displays a nice complex layering of flavour. Despite the soft structure, I find this quite attractive. 15.5/20 (November 2006)

Fonseca Crusted NV: Latest release. Bottled in 2001. Again, less expressive. More reserved, less fruit dominated, notes of chocolate and fig. Sweet and peppery palate, but quite elegantly presented, well textured but not overdone, balanced and structured. Grippy with a nice finish. A very worthwhile bottle of wine which I would like for current drinking. 16.5+/20 (November 2006)

Fonseca Bin 27 NV: Purchased Summer 2000. A deep, yet vibrant, red-purple colour, with thick, lazy, oily legs. Oak, rich black fruits and figs on the nose, with some spicy, Christmas cake notes. Nicely textured palate, good tannins and integrated alcohol. Some spicy black fruits and oak. Smooth finish and nice length. 16/20 (October 2000)