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Vacheron

Perhaps my most enduring memory of Sancerre concerns my discovery of Domaine Vacheron, which is located very close to the centre of the town, in 1993. In the town square there many cafés who place their tables well out in the centre of the place, perfect for people-watching. I soon discovered that a quick nod of the head in the right direction would bring a waiter out from the appropriate bar, and before long I had the first beer of the afternoon. After a long drive out to Sancerre from Tours, on a warm day, it was particularly welcome. As was the second beer, which arrived after catching the waiter's eye, without even the need for an exchange of words. It struck me that after one drink I was already a regular here, either that or the waiter was a mind-reader. When I had drained my second early-afternoon glass I took to exploring the town of Sancerre on foot, and on doing so I came across Domaine Vacheron, which is located very close to the centre of Sancerre itself, on a road heading down and out of this hilltop town. The wines I discovered within were excellent, and although the opportunities to taste and drink them ever since have been too few and far between, Vacheron has never really been off my radar since that day.

The Vacheron family have had a presence in Sancerre for generations, and in recent years it has been brothers Denis and Jean-Louis Vacheron who have been in charge, but they are now in the process of handing the reins to the next generation, cousins Jean-Dominique and Jean-Laurent Vacheron (all four are shown on the right). As with most up-and-coming vignerons at family-run domaines, the two have travelled to gain experience elsewhere, Jean-Dominique in Châteauneuf du Pape, and Jean-Laurent in Burgundy with Aubert de Villaine. It is the two cousins who have been the driving force behind converting the estate to biodynamics.

Today the vineyard covers just over 46 hectares of the Sancerre appellation, of which 43 hectares are managed biodynamically, having been fully certified by BIODYVIN in 2005. The 2008 certification shows that the remaining vineyards, about 3.3 hectares, are in the process of conversion to biodynamics. Of the 14 communes entitled to the Sancerre appellation, the Vacherons are naturally, considering their location, almost exclusively confined to the vineyards of Sancerre itself, where 42 hectares of their vineyards can be found. Most of these are committed to Sauvignon Blanc for their white Sancerre, with 32 hectares utilised for the cuvée domaine, and just 2 hectares in the lieu-dit Les Romains. There are 10.5 hectares of Pinot Noir, of which 1.5 hectares are in Les Romains, and this is the source of fruit for the Belle Dame cuvée, the remainder is intended for the cuvée domaine. There is a mix of the typical Sancerre terroirs, with 45% of the vines planted on flinty soils, 45% on limestone soils, and the remaining 10% on clay. Vineyard practices are as you would expect for a biodynamically run estate, with traditional hoeing of the soils, plant teas based on nettles, horsetails and ferns for treating vine maladies, interplanting with grass between the rows of vines, weeding by hand, and likewise a manual harvest.

The yields are controlled by pruning and at harvest time the freshly picked fruit, sometimes brought in during several tries, is sorted in the vineyard before transport into the winery in small crates. The white grapes are pressed, using a low-pressure pneumatic press, before being fed by gravity into the fermentation vessels. The red grapes are 100% destemmed. Fermentation is in stainless steel for the cuvée domaine, which dominates the portfolio; as noted above about three-quarters of the vineyard is given over to it. The white cuvée Les Romains, and the two reds, both the cuvée domaine and Belle Dame, are fermented in large oak foudres. There are, if you look around, other Vacheron cuvées, in particular the white Reine Blanche and red Les Cailleries, but as far as I can see these are limited to just one UK retailer, and so I suspect they are special labels for that particular merchant.

Overall the wines of Vacheron are very worthwhile. I confess I have a soft spot for the domaine, as the wines bring back memories of that first visit back in 1993, but even when totally detached from the land and the family, tasting the wines in the UK, you can still sense the intrinsic quality. The domaine is famed for its red wines, perhaps not surprising with such a sizeable proportion of the vineyard committed to Pinot Noir, and such a long track record of vinifying this variety. The red Belle Dame is particularly good, more so than the red cuvée domaine, although all levels are worth exploring. Nevertheless, it was the whites that attracted me here first, and today they remain exemplary wines. These are bottles well worth buying, and in the case of both the top white and red cuvées, worth cellaring too. (5/8/04, updated 27/2/09)

Contact details:
Address: 18300 Sancerre
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 48 54 09 93
Fax: +33 (0) 2 48 54 01 74

Vacheron - Tasting Notes

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Vacheron Sancerre 2008: The terroir is limestone and flint, the fermentation in stainless steel. This has a beautiful freshness of fruit, with notes of greengage. The palate is similarly lively and fresh, with bright acidity and a harmonious character. A firm midpalate structure underneath a broad, mouthfilling substance, with some grip. This is fine stuff. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Vacheron Sancerre Les Romains 2008: The soils in Les Romains are flint, and the fermentation is in oak. This has a lovely, smoky minerality on the nose which suggests finesse. It starts off pure and rather ethereal at first, but then shows a warmer and riper midpalate. Fresh, delineated, with really good acidity and midpalate grip. Sappy, intense, firm of character, with a big, minerally, acid-bound finish. Really very good indeed. 17.5-An update from the 2009 Salon. 18+/20 (February 2009)

Vacheron Sancerre Rouge 2007: A barrel sample. Fermented in oak. A bright, rather steely character to the fruit despite this, very fresh, with crisp and rather stony strawberry-liquorice fruit, with a little element of smoky barrique coming in later. Rather lean on the palate, with a little flesh but certainly a firm, stony element. Fuller in the midpalate, with plenty of grip and spice here. Overall an attractive wine. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16-16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Vacheron Sancerre Rouge 2006: Rather more restrained fruit on the nose here, with a little beetroot, spice and liquorice. There is a freshness to the aroma too, alongside some smoky oak as with the 2007. A finely presented style on the palate, structured, with a grip of ripe tannins, and stony fruit. This has a really good, reserved, savoury style, but doesn't have the freshness on the palate that was suggested by the nose. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Vacheron Sancerre Rouge Belle Dame 2006: This cuvée is sourced from a silex (flint) terroir in Les Romains. There is certainly a greater depth here; there is still some oak showing, but it also has smoothly polished beetroot and fresh berry fruit. A good texture and substance, savoury grip and lovely, light-cream weight. Piles of structure underneath it all. Overall a fine character. A very good wine which has more stony finesse than the 2005, but less aromatic appeal - although that may change with time. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Vacheron Sancerre Rouge Belle Dame 2005: A low yield vintage, 25 hl/ha for this cuvée which is usually 30-35 hl/ha. An appealingly spicy nose here, with complex, developed, organic aromas. Great freshness on the palate, with a good lively style. Plenty of grip, a good fat substance, plenty of acidity to balance it out as well. It has more attractive aromatics than the 2006 - which may just reflect evolution than a true difference in quality - although that wine possibly has more finesse. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Vacheron Sancerre Rouge Les Cailleries 2003: A lovely, red-purple colour here. Not overtly over the top, but it certainly has more intensity than you would usually expect from Sancerre, no doubt reflecting the hot vintage. A very appealing nose, stuffed with primary Pinot character; slightly roasted black cherry fruit, with a streak of fine, dark chocolate, with more complex, earthy, mushroomy and yet sweetly ripe nuances. Great texture on entry, sweet and attractive, full of flavour, with a fine, plump body. Not overblown on texture or weight, so despite the acidity being a tad low it has a good presence on the palate, really quite fresh, with a well delineated albeit grit-edged seam of tannin. Moderate length. I like this very much. Drink now, or cellar short-term. 17/20 (April 2006) Label

Vacheron Sancerre 2002: A lemon-gold hue. Very full and expressive on the nose, with grapefruit and greengage fruit, but a full, plump sensation rather than leanness. The palate reveals this to be Sauvignon in the creamy style, but with attractive acidity, in fact it is quite racy. A full, creamy finish. 16.5/20 (June 2004)

Vacheron Sancerre Rouge Belle Dame 2001: A more mature appearance here, still with vibrant freshness and youth, but offset by some bricking hues. Lovely nose, quite enticing, mature, meaty and gamey, very organic, with notes of spiced, peppered cherries. A fine palate, delicate on entry, developing a fuller feel though the midpalate, underpinned by a seam of chalk-edged tannin. Very nicely balanced, fairly precise, well structured and certainly an impressive and appealing wine, as it glides across the palate. Lovely finish, gentle and refined, with good length. A fine example of what red Sancerre should be. May improve further. 18+/20 (April 2006) Label

Vacheron Sancerre 2000: I must admit to having a soft spot for Vacheron, as every bottle brings back memories to my first visit to the domaine back in 1993. The current vintage has a nose of nettles, freshly pulled weeds and gooseberries. Good, aromatic fruit on the palate, with no sense of confection. Very clean through to the finish. 16.5+/20 (May 2001)