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Joël Taluau
Joël Taluau is regarded by many as the most reliable producer of benchmark St Nicolas de Bourgueil. This is a long established domaine, the elderly Taluaunow being joined by his so-in-law Thierry Foltzenlogel whose name can also be found on the label (although in very small print!). Together they work about 26 hectares of vines in the St Nicolas appellation, the fruit being largely harvested by machine, sadly, although subsequent fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel is one innovation likely to improve the quality of the resulting wines.
There
are several cuvées produced, mostly from the typical argilo-silico-limestone
terroirs of St Nicolas de Bourgueil, starting with a Jeunes Vignes wine from the most
recently planted vines which are of less than 35 years of age. There is a straight
domaine bottling, Cuvée de Domaine, made from 20-40 year-old vines, and
then the flagship Vieilles Vignes cuvée, which originates from a plot of vines
planted in 1934. For these three original cuvées Taluau, who was the first to
start domaine-bottling in the appellation, eschews wood altogether, preferring
to bottle the young vines cuvée direct from the steel of the fermentation tank,
although the better wines are rested for a short period first. The aim is to
capture the fruit and vivacity of the wines, and to this effect they see only a
light fining, and no filtration. Today, however, Taluau and Foltzenlogel have
expanded their portfolio, adding
Vin Jaumier, made from a 5 hectare calcareous plot purchased in 1991, and
L'Insoumise, another old vine cuvée, but this one sees up to twelve
months barrel ageing, in used oak (up to three vintages old). There is also a
Bourgueil, made from a 3 hectare plot.
(14/3/06, updated 21/6/06)
Contact details:
Address: Chevrette, 37140 St Nicolas de Bourgueil
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 97 78 79
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 97 95 60
Internet:
www.vins-taluau-foltzenlogel.com
Joël Taluau - Tasting Notes
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Joël Taluau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Jeune Vignes 2003: A very good
depth of colour, and a lovely nose, bursting with smoky raspberry and blackberry
fruit, cut through with a firm, stony, mineral aroma. A warm ripe texture on
entry, with a fine supporting backbone of tannin. Appealing fruit profile as on
the nose, with a pleasingly bitter, stony, wet pebble character as well. There
are a few unresolved but gentle tannins swimming around the finish, so I think
this very enjoyable wine will improve in the short term. Remarkably good,
especially for an entry-level, young vines cuvée. 17+/20 (March 2006)
Label
Joël Taluau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Cuvée du Domaine 2000: A fine
colour here, a glossy cherry red of moderate depth, showing the very barest
hints of early maturity. Lovely, mature, expressive nose, with notes of bay leaf
and green peppercorn alongside some meaty, stony black fruit. Fine, chalky
texture on entry, lovely acid structure, very clean and pebbly through the
midpalate, leading to a little bite of tannin on the finish. Quite a reserved,
minerally yet juicy finish. Should improve over the next two or three years at
least, but is lovely to drink now. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (March 2006)
Label
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