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Domaine des Rochelles
Located in St Jean des Mauverts, the history of Domaine des Rochelles and the
wines of this region, Anjou, are intimately entwined. It was here that Anjou
stalwart Hubert Lebreton, a key figure in the development of the appellations
and at the time head of this family-run domaine, essentially defined what the
dry wines of Anjou should be. This work has been no less significant in its
effect than the legal definitions of the appellations as laid down in 1936 (for
Anjou) and 1987 (for Anjou-Villages). Today Hubert has yielded control to his
son Jean-Yves who now runs the domaine, although these two are in fact the third
and fourth generations to have done so. The domaine was first established by
Edouard Lebreton in the early 20th Century, around 1910, when it was essentially
a smallholding of polyculture, the vines merely one crop among the other fruits,
vegetables and cereals. Edouard passed it to his son Emile, who was instrumental
in shaping the domaine into what it is today, moving towards monoculture of the
vine, and marketing the wine by direct sales rather than through the usual
outlets. This is a practice that continues today, and although many bottles are
sold to visitors to the domaine, the Lebreton family also hold a file of some 25000
private customers further afield who also regularly buy the wine. From Emile the
estate came to Hubert and Jean-Yves, and the next generation Jean-Hubert is waiting in the wings.
Other family members run another leading domaine of the appellation, Domaine de
Montgilet.
The vineyards, which cover 58 hectares all told, include a gamut of varieties; Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, both Cabernets and more, and naturally therefore there is a broad portfolio of wines produced here, sparkling or still, rosé, white or red, dry or sweet. Nevertheless, it is probably the sweet Coteaux de l'Aubance and the red wines, bottled as Anjou-Villages-Brissac, an appellation which covers ten communes of the Aubance vineyards, which deserve most attention. The Coteaux de l'Aubance is 100% Chenin Blanc, and although lighter than many a Coteaux du Layon, and also than the wines of Montgilet, these are still of fine quality. The Anjou-Villages-Brissac appellation permits for only the two Cabernets, and there are two cuvées produced, a domaine wine which favours Cabernet Franc, and the superior La Croix du Mission bottling, which is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon. All the vines, red and white, are grown on decomposed schist which typifies the slopes around the Aubance and which no doubt contributes in some part to the obvious quality of the wines. (11/9/07)
Contact details:
Address: 49320 Saint Jean- des- Mauvrets
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 91 92 07
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 54 62 63
Internet:
www.domainedesrochelles.com
Domaine des Rochelles - Tasting Notes
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Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2002: Predominantly
Cabernet Franc here, I believe. This has a quite clear, vibrant, cherry red. It
takes an hour or so to really open up, giving some crisp berry fruit with smoky
tobacco spices as it does so, with notes of violets and a touch of garden mint.
It really is quite captivating. Fresh style on the palate, rather lithe, firm,
with little flesh. Peppery, with quite forthright acidity, and a dry, cherry
stone fruit. Very appealing. 16.5+/20 (August 2007)
Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2002:
This has a darker, more purple hue than the first wine. This is more dependent
on Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of dark, crunchy fruits on the nose, with a slightly
crystalline but ripe character, with complex nuances of tobacco, liquorice,
sweet cough candy and green peppercorns overlaid. Lovely, ripe and sweet fruit
on the palate, nice extract, rounded and firm yet fresh. This is just a delight
to drink. 17+/20 (August 2007)
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