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Domaine des Rochelles

Located in St Jean des Mauverts, the history of Domaine des Rochelles and the wines of this region, Anjou, are intimately entwined. It was here that Anjou stalwart Hubert Lebreton, a key figure in the development of the appellations and at the time head of this family-run domaine, essentially defined what the dry wines of Anjou should be. This work has been no less significant in its effect than the legal definitions of the appellations as laid down in 1936 (for Anjou) and 1987 (for Anjou-Villages). Today Hubert has yielded control to his son Jean-Yves who now runs the domaine, although these two are in fact the third and fourth generations to have done so. The domaine was first established by Edouard Lebreton in the early 20th Century, around 1910, when it was essentially a smallholding of polyculture, the vines merely one crop among the other fruits, vegetables and cereals. Edouard passed it to his son Emile, who was instrumental in shaping the domaine into what it is today, moving towards monoculture of the vine, and marketing the wine by direct sales rather than through the usual outlets. This is a practice that continues today, and although many bottles are sold to visitors to the domaine, the Lebreton family also hold a file of some 25000 private customers further afield who also regularly buy the wine. From Emile the estate came to Hubert and Jean-Yves, and the next generation Jean-Hubert is waiting in the wings. Other family members run another leading domaine of the appellation, Domaine de Montgilet.

The vineyards, which cover 58 hectares all told, include a gamut of varieties; Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, both Cabernets and more, and naturally therefore there is a broad portfolio of wines produced here, sparkling or still, rosé, white or red, dry or sweet. Nevertheless, it is probably the sweet Coteaux de l'Aubance and the red wines, bottled as Anjou-Villages-Brissac, an appellation which covers ten communes of the Aubance vineyards, which deserve most attention. The Coteaux de l'Aubance is 100% Chenin Blanc, and although lighter than many a Coteaux du Layon, and also than the wines of Montgilet, these are still of fine quality. The Anjou-Villages-Brissac appellation permits for only the two Cabernets, and there are two cuvées produced, a domaine wine which favours Cabernet Franc, and the superior La Croix du Mission bottling, which is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon. All the vines, red and white, are grown on decomposed schist which typifies the slopes around the Aubance and which no doubt contributes in some part to the obvious quality of the wines. (11/9/07)

Contact details:
Address: 49320 Saint Jean- des- Mauvrets
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 91 92 07
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 54 62 63
Internet: www.domainedesrochelles.com

Domaine des Rochelles - Tasting Notes

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Domaine des Rochelles Anjou Rouge L'Ardoise 2008: This wine has some lean and stony fruit on the nose, with a very gentle character overall. The palate has decent concentration, with some grip, tannins with a rather hard and rustic character, but it seems a touch diffuse. Decent wine. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14.5-15.5/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2007: The fruit here is dark and stony in character, with a touch of roasted herb. It has a nice weight on entry, with a supple style, followed up by a much firmer midpalate. Rather firm and potent acidity, which dominates the midpalate. It has a hard middle and finish, but in its favour it has a clean style. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14.5-15.5/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2006: A richer colour here than some other wines, and darker fruit on the nose. It still has a roasted herb character, but it isn't overtly green, although it does have some smoky, burnt fruit. Nice texture, with lots of grip and acid underneath, and a clean finish. needs a couple of years, but might just be worth it. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14.5-15.5+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Rochelles Coteaux de l'Aubance 2006: In the glass this has a clear, bright, golden appearance. On the nose it displays a very fresh style, with aromas of lemons and quince, and a lightly honeyed richness nicely countered by a crisp herbal tea character. The palate is simply lovely, showing quite pure definition on entry, with a gentle fatness through the midpalate. Above all it has purity and freshness. This is a well constructed wine, with good depth and a touch of grit towards the endpalate which provides some interest. And it has a good substance, and really quite some length too. Very good indeed. With quality and purity like this it is perhaps a little difficult to understand why this particular appellation has such a low profile. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20 (August 2008)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2005: A lovely, pure, rich and dusky hue. The nose carries some crunchy fruit, with notes of cherry skin and cherry stones, pepper and celery seed. A fine and bright character on the palate, firm, with quite dry tannins and a firm grip which builds through the midpalate and finish. A characterful wine, this makes for delicious drinking but also provides plenty of interest. Very good. 17/20 (April 2008)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2002: Predominantly Cabernet Franc here, I believe. This has a quite clear, vibrant, cherry red. It takes an hour or so to really open up, giving some crisp berry fruit with smoky tobacco spices as it does so, with notes of violets and a touch of garden mint. It really is quite captivating. Fresh style on the palate, rather lithe, firm, with little flesh. Peppery, with quite forthright acidity, and a dry, cherry stone fruit. Very appealing. 16.5+/20 (August 2007)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2002: This has a darker, more purple hue than the first wine. This is more dependent on Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of dark, crunchy fruits on the nose, with a slightly crystalline but ripe character, with complex nuances of tobacco, liquorice, sweet cough candy and green peppercorns overlaid. Lovely, ripe and sweet fruit on the palate, nice extract, rounded and firm yet fresh. This is just a delight to drink. 17+/20 (August 2007)