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Pithon-Paillé

Charles Sydney's introduction to Domaine Pithon-Paillé, reproduced on the latter's website, is perhaps the kindest and most succinct way of describing the events that have befallen Jo Pithon. "Despite a series of mishaps that left him with no domaine, no winery and only five hectares of vines, the Loire’s very own gentle giant is once again up and kicking." writes Sydney. I would contend that describing the sequence of events as "mishaps" is perhaps putting a gentle spin on the story. The severance of Jo Pithon the man and Jo Pithon the name, the domaine, the business and label came about as the result of irresolvable differences with his financier, Philippe Fournier. Pithon left, taking with him all that he truly owned, which as Sydney points out amounted to about five hectares of vines, which are divided between the Anjou and Savennières appellations. Meanwhile, the domaine and the labels that bear his name remain in the ownership of Fournier, who is moulding them, together with the vineyards of Chateau de Chamboureau, into Domaine FL.

Pithon, Paillé and Their Vineyards

Pithon's new venture is with his stepson Joseph Paillé, and their partners, Isabelle Pithon and Wendy Wilson (the latter pictured on the right); together the foursome are building a négociant business to match those found in the Rhône and Burgundy, centred around the small plots of vines they still own. The heart of the business is perhaps the Chateau La Fresnaye, which belongs to Philippe Baudin, a long-standing associate of Pithon. Having long since ceased making wine, the cellars and equipment were available for Pithon, who used to work with Baudin, to use. The viticultural heart, however, must surely be Les Treilles, a 7 hectare site at Beaulieu-sur-Layon. Jo and Isabelle Pithon purchased the vineyard as if it were a jigsaw, slowly prising the pieces from the hands of 25 owners over a three year period, the process eventually yielding 5 hectares of useable land; there are currently 2.7 hectares of vines, planted between 2000 and 2006. The site is of significant interest to botanists as well as wine drinkers; studies revealed a colony of the Lysandra bellargus (or Adonis Blue) butterfly, and hence the wine from the site is known as Bellargus de Treilles.

After Les Treilles the family own 2.2 hectares of vines at La Fresnaye, at St Aubin-de-Luigné. Here on gravelly soils there are 1.5 hectares of Chenin Blanc, planted in two stages in 1987 and 1989, and also 0.7 hectares of Cabernet Franc planted in 1969. The Pithon domaine is completed by 0.25 hectares of vines at Clos Pirou in the Roches-aux-Moines cru of Savennières planted in 1990 and 2006. With such a small plot it is no surprise to learn that the produce of these vines is blended with the purchased négoce wines.

The Négoce Wines

It was in early 2008 that Pithon and Paillé created their new négociant venture. The focus is on Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, from the Anjou and Savennières appellations especially. Together the duo select suitable plots, with a clear preference for organic production, and they remain involved with the vigneron throughout the year, providing supervision and advice on the harvest date before taking the purchased grapes or juice. The team take on either fermentation and élevage, or just the latter if that is appropriate, with between 10 and 18 months in oak depending on the style of wine. As with all négociants there is likely to be more fluctuation in the wines offered from year to year, but in 2008 there were five cuvées each in red and white offered. For the former, a négoce Anjou matured in 2-5 year-old barrels, and a Savennières which sees 20% new wood, and which is a blend of purchased and domaine-grown fruit. Then come the three Anjou cuvées originating from the domaine, La Fresnaye, Bellargus des Treilles from young vines in Les Treilles, and the Coteau des Treilles, from older vines, aged in two-thirds new oak. Some of these wines are almost micro-cuvées, such as the latter which fills only 900 bottles.

In red, there is Grololo, a departure from the Cabernet-Chenin ethos in the shape of a vin de pays made from the Groslot variety. Then come the two from Bourgueil, Les Graviers and Le Coteau, from gravel and limestone respectively, and also a Chinon from vines in Beaumont-en-Véron. All these are négoce wines. Lastly, from domaine-grown fruit, comes a red Anjou La Fresnaye.

This is a young business, and so there are not old vintages to taste. But the vibrant and perfumed fruit in the 2008 vintage, across the board, says much for the experience of the family running the Loire's newest and most dynamic négociant. These are delicious wines, with lots of elegant potential. As such I sense a new direction for Pithon, perhaps influenced by his experiences, but more likely by the hand of Joseph Paillé I fancy. Pithon's wines were renowned for being big, bold and perhaps a little bolshy, marked by extraction, sometimes botrytis, sometimes oxidation. The 2006 Les Treilles, tasted below, was a balanced antithesis of this style; although still honeyed by oak, it was fresh, elegant and had finesse. The other wines, although it is difficult to judge when they are so embryonic I think, should find the same style in time. Pithon has clearly, after a very difficult time, moved onwards and upwards. And so have his wines. (10/3/09)

Contact details:
Address: 49190 Saint Aubin de Luigné
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 68 74
Internet: www.pithon-paille.com

Pithon-Paillé - Tasting Notes

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Pithon-Paillé Anjou 2008: Tasted twice, once with Charles Sydney and once with the Pithon-Paillé family. I have combined my two notes. An early sample. A négoce wine, blended from up to four terroirs. It has light apple and pear fruit on the nose, gentle and fresh, aromatic and a touch exotic, with hints of sage. The palate is fresh, crisp, mineral, bright and full of character. This is a vivacious wine with fresh, sappy, grippy fruit backed up by fine acidity. A very good depth of substance; great potential here. 16-17+/20 (February 2009)

Pithon-Paillé Savennières 2008: Tasted twice, once with Charles Sydney and once with the Pithon-Paillé family. I have combined my two notes. An early sample. The family own only 0.25 hectares of vines here (in the Roches-aux-Moines cru) which is blended into this négoce wine. Like the Anjou this also shows wonderful freshness and minerals, with a very light, elegant and perfumed style. The palate doesn't disappoint; it is beautifully defined, full and sappy, with a firm, spicy-peppery grip underneath delicious white pear and apple fruits. A hugely fresh and vivacious wine, with massive substance and plenty of appeal for me. Fine potential. 17-18+/20 (February 2009)

Pithon-Paillé Anjou La Fresnaye 2008: An early sample. This wine is sourced from vineyards still in the ownership of the family, carried on from Domaine Jo Pithon. A gravelly nose, a little dry at the ends, but with vibrant, youthful pear fruit in the middle. There is a lovely vinous texture to the palate, showing just a little fat, but it also has great balance. Lots of spicy acidity underneath it. Overall a fresh wine, with the floral purity of a spring meadow, but with firm minerally undertones. An impressive wine. 16-17+/20 (February 2009)

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Bellargus des Treilles 2008: Again from the family's vineyards, another very early sample. Still cloudy. The vineyard is named for the Bellargus butterfly, which was identified at the site. It has deep and rather heady fruit on the nose, perfumed and pretty, with some oak in the background. Slightly more creamy than La Fresnaye, rounded and textured, smoothly polished with a fine character. Lots of good acidity too. Really a very attractive wine. 16.5-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pithon-Paillé Bourgueil Graviers 2008: Back to the négoce wines here, with this Bourgueil from gravelly soils. Perfumed red fruits on the nose, with a sweet and slightly confected edge to the fruit - but this is a very young sample. The palate has a fine, stony-raspberry fruit character, with elements of leaf, parma violets and perfume. There is good structure underneath. Fresh, attractive and juicy, but with good grip at the end. Nice wine. 15.5-16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pithon-Paillé Bourgueil Coteau 2008: Another négoce wine, from a limestone terroir. A more reticent style on the nose here, although it is fresh and sweet, with the vibrant perfume of wild strawberries. More supple on the palate, smooth and polished, with a creamy-stony character. Lots of lovely style here, grippy too, with vibrant fruit aromas of chalky raspberry lingering at the finish. Good wine. 16-16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pithon-Paillé Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2008: This comes from plot of 80-year-old vines. A nice style, very typical, with mineral and stone character. The palate has a fine composition, with pure black fruits and a perfumed edge. Overall a very lifted, violet-tinged wine, sappy, round and mouth-fillingly fresh. This is an impressive cuvée. 16.5-17/20 (February 2009)

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Bellargus des Treilles 2006: No longer for sale, but the family still hold some stock for drinking or showing at tastings. This has seen about 11 months in oak and it thus gives some indication of where the 2008 might be in a couple of years. It has a lovely nose, fresh and pure, with a very slightly honeyed richness, but still with all the minerality purity I would expect. A little touch of vanilla and aniseed too. The palate is superb, smoothly polished, with firmly defined edges. This is really well delineated, high quality drinking. 17.5/20 (February 2009)