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Patrick Baudoin

Leaving behind his old life working in a bookshop, Patrick Baudoin arrived on the Coteaux du Layon scene in 1990 when he took control over a small collection of vines handed down from his great-grandparents, Louis and Maria Juby. It was they who had established the domaine in 1920; having inherited some vines in the Bruandières vineyard in St Aubin de Luigné they went on to purchase more in La Cour d'Ardenay in Chaudefonds sur Layon, before settling down to the life of vignerons. It sounds like any easy start for Baudoin, but perhaps it paints rather too glossy a picture; when he returned to the domaine he had the use of some ancient cellars, a few rented vines and some rather desolate land. Domaine Patrick Baudoin was established almost from scratch.

I have never tasted the wines of Baudoin's early career, although I have seen reports. Jacqueline Friedrich, writing in A Fine & Food Guide to the Loire (1996), was moderately scathing, commenting that "Baudoin's reds interest me more than his Layons", and "Baudoin is a beginner and it shows". Nevertheless, Friedrich also saw potential in the man - "But there's cause for optimism here" was her conclusion. Indeed, her prediction seems to have been borne out with the passage of time. During the two decades since Patrick Baudoin returned to his familial domaine he has pushed for quality and clambered up the ladder of top Layon producers.

Today he has about 10 hectares of vines to work with, scattered around not only St Aubin de Luigné and Chaudefonds sur Layon, but also Rochefort sur Loire. Most are schistous and lie on the north bank of the Layon, affording them a favourable south-facing aspect, although two of the St Aubin plots lie on the south bank. The Rochefort plot is on the northern slopes, facing Savennières. Of the 10 hectares about 7 are committed to Chenin Blanc, the remainder a mix of Cabernets Franc & Sauvignon, these latter red vines being concentrated around Chaudefonds sur Layon. The vines yield several Anjou cuvées, including at least three white from the Chenin and one red, a mix of the Cabernets, but also an impressive array of sweet wines under the Coteaux du Layon appellation. It is perhaps the latter that have gained Baudoin most attention, and no doubt the success of these wines is in part down to the vineyard and cellar ethos, both of which are exacting. In 1997 Baudoin turned his attention to the health of the soil, moving towards an organic system of viticulture. He abandoned chemical herbicides that year, and by 2001 he had also given up chemical pesticides and he gained organic certification from Ecocert. Perhaps the most important change in the cellar was the cessation of chaptalisation - which he abandoned in 1994 - accompanied by a more reasoned use of sulphur. The estate is not committed to biodynamic viticulture, but rather a system of what Baudoin terms "durable" agriculture, taking on organic practices which enhance the health of the vineyard but rejecting the frequent mysticism of biodynamics.

The fruit is harvesting during several tries, between four and six in total, the picking usually extending through into November. In the cellars the fruit is pressed, allowed to settle and then fermented using indigenous yeasts in a mix of new or used oak and tanks. As above there is no chaptalisation, and the fermentations continue until they come to a natural halt. Thereafter the wines can be racked into barrel with the protection of sulphur, where they may rest for up to 18 months before bottling, sometimes with a light filtration. The range of cuvées varies according to the vintage, particularly the extent of the botrytis, but in the case of the sweet wines may include Grains Nobles, Bruandières and Maria Juby cuvées. In 1997 he also produced the remarkable Les Sens de Chenin, with 1% alcohol and 690 g/l of residual sugar.

Although aware of his reputation for excellent wines, meeting Patrick at the Renaissance des Appellations tasting in Angers in early 2009 was my first chance to taste a decent range of his wines, through white and red Anjou up to his sweet Coteaux du Layon wines. There is good consistency across the board here; the whites tend to have a firm and full style, although they are balanced and very drinkable. The blended red Anjou was perhaps my least favourite of the crowd, although a number of reds from the 2005 vintage tasted during the same trip were seen to be acting in a rather sullen fashion, so perhaps these wines are closing down somewhat. As for the Coteaux du Layons, Les Bruandières was lighter than expected but still very good, and in possession of fine potential, but the Maria Juby was fabulous, truly a great wine. It is clear to me that this estate is an important one for the region, with a dedicated, thoughtful and committed vigneron currently holding the reins. I look forward to tasting and drinking more of his wines. (24/3/09)

Contact details:
Address: Princé, 49290 Chaudefonds sur Layon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 66 04
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 66 04
Internet: www.patrick-baudouin-layon.com

Patrick Baudoin - Tasting Notes

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Patrick Baudoin Anjou Coteau d'Ardenay 2008: This cuvée is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from schistous soils. Crisp and clean aromatics on the nose, a very fresh style. The palate has elegance, with an open and light character rather than any great depth or concentration. Well structured, fresh and balanced, nicely backed up by good acidity but also good extract. From a tasting of Patrick Baudoin's wines in 2010. 15.5+/20 (February 2010)

Patrick Baudoin Anjou Blanc Effusion 2007: As I noted when tasting the 2006, from volcanic soils said to be "effusive". A fine nose here, all honey and stone. An appealingly dry composition on the palate, with a gentle flesh. Soft, open, with light acidity. Not seemingly very structured on this tasting, but it certainly has some appeal despite its rather loose-knit character. From a tasting of Patrick Baudoin's wines in 2010. 15+/20 (February 2010)

Patrick Baudoin Anjou Blanc Le Cornillard 2007: From old vines planted on schistous soils. A nice, soft, honeyed nose, rather more plump and open than Effusion at the moment. There follows a very nice style on the palate, somewhat more linear and defined; there is less flesh to it but overall I find more appeal here. It has a nice substance and a good, sappy finish. From a tasting of Patrick Baudoin's wines in 2010. 16+/20 (February 2010)

Patrick Baudoin Coteaux du Layon 2007: A rather light and elegant style on the nose here, showing a vein of honey and minerals, but nothing in the aromatic profile is strongly suggestive of botrytis. It has a moderate texture on the palate, which is very supple and balanced. A little hint of minerals, and a light crystalline character to the fruit. Seems to be more passerillé than noble, the character gently sweet and refined rather than a block-buster. Nice though. From a tasting of Patrick Baudoin's wines in 2010. 16+/20 (February 2010)

Patrick Baudoin Anjou Blanc Effusion 2006: From 15-year-old vines on a site said, historically, to be "effusive", hence the name. This has nice, clean, pure fruit on the nose. The style on the palate is fresh and balanced, with good minerality, good grip and decent acidity. It is rather more restrained than the 2005, less sweet and confected, with a sappy and substantial finish. It has an attractive balance of components, but I think I prefer the style of the richer, fatter 2005. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Patrick Baudoin Anjou Blanc Les Glanées 2006: This is an assemblage of fruit from several different parcels. It has a gently honeyed nose with mineral elements, and lots of savoury straw character too, in a bright and well defined fashion. The palate is a little softer and rounder; this is a gentle, accessible style, although it still has good grip and certainly has good acidity. Stylish, fleshy, balanced, with straw and dried fruits and a great sappy finish. I like this. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Patrick Baudoin Anjou Blanc Effusion 2005: This has an interesting nose, rich but restrained in terms of intensity of aroma. Dry straw, minerals, rocks, but it is all a touch muted and diffuse. But it still has appeal. The palate is gentle, nicely balanced, rich in character but with a fresh structure. In fact there is some good acidity and grip here. The flavours are rather sweet, confected, with a pastille-like trait, but it is still a very attractive style despite this. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Patrick Baudoin Anjou Blanc Le Cornillard 2005: This cuvée originates from 50-year-old vines on a schistous, south-facing slope. Again it has the rich, dried-candied fruits of the 2005 vintage; I find it very attractive. The palate is clean, well defined, rich in fruit in a savoury-dried style, with lots of peppery minerality underneath which shows on the finish too. This is a really impressive style with lots of substance and vigour. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Patrick Baudoin Anjou Rouge 2005: This blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 55% Cabernet Franc has a good depth of colour, and a lean, stony-bright character. It still has a light leafiness despite the successful vintage. A nice character on the palate though, with slightly sweet, slightly confected fruit over some welcome substance and grip. Nice balance, but in truth a touch nettly and lean. There could be an element of closing down here though. 15+?/20 (February 2009)

Patrick Baudoin Coteaux du Layon Les Bruandières 2005: A gentle and composed nose; soft honey, but also attractive, integrated minerals with an appealing and elegant style. Attractive and clean fruit, not hugely intense, but with a nice composition. Soft, rounded, elegant and balanced. Although not the most concentrated of Layons in the midpalate, this has lovely substance on the finish and great length. Given a few years in bottle, this could be delicious. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Patrick Baudoin Coteaux du Layon Les Bruandières 2004: Good botrytis here on the nose, mixed with an elegant, smoky, mineral and rather evolved character here. Remarkable there is still a little trace of sulphur still. The palate though is beautiful, sweet but balanced, certainly noble, with good depth and structure and almost a savoury richness. With its fine and bitter structure beneath the sweetness, this is magnificent, especially considering the vintage was not a great one. This will make fine drinking, although I would like to see that sulphurous twist disappear with some time in the cellar first. From a tasting of Patrick Baudoin's wines in 2010. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Patrick Baudoin Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Maria Juby 2004: A special cuvée named for Patrick's great-grandmother. This has a much more intense nose than the 2005 Bruandières, tasted alongside, and a deeper colour too. There is evident botrytis here, with a dried, honey-tinged, mealy nose. The palate is very rich, with a sweet, creamy character which is well balanced out by lots of firm acidity. A big, structure, full of honeyed fruits, an opulent style with lots of nole rot influence, this is really intense. Excellent potential for the cellar. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)