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Pierre Luneau-Papin

The man in charge of one of the leading domaines of the Nantais, Pierre Luneau-Papin, hails from a long line of vignerons. The Luneau family is well established in the region; their presence here may be traced as far back as the late 17th Century and Pierre Luneau is the thirteenth generation of his family to bear the name Pierre. Pierre and Monique, his wife, are the seventh generation of vignerons to run Domaine Pierre de la Grange, which was founded by Pierre's forebears in the 18th Century. Muscadet savants will know, however, that that wines are more likely to be found listed under Luneau-Papin or even Pierre Luneau, than under the estate's true name of Pierre de la Grange.

Having studied at Briacé and gained experience with Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, both of the Faculty of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, it is perhaps no surprise that Luneau-Papin is one of Muscadet's leading lights. In his immaculate winery, Pierre takes his fruit, part machine-harvested but in the case of the top vineyards, hand-harvested - a process which sets himself apart from many of his peers in a region dominated by the machine - and he proceeds to vinify in small batches according to the origin of the fruit.

There are approximately 40 hectares of vines at Pierre's disposal, with 38 hectares planted to Melon de Bourgogne and the remaining 2 hectares committed to red varieties. The vineyards are situated in Le Landreau, Vallet and La Chapelle Heulin, about 20 kilometres from Nantes itself. This is a landscape characterised by gently rolling vineyards (amenable to the aforementioned machine harvesters), and variable terroirs, which as well as the sandy soils which are perhaps the first to mind when thinking of the region, also include micaschist, gneiss and schist, and other sometimes exotic rocks of volcanic origin. The vines have a good age, forty-five years on average although some are well into their seventh decade. Once the fruit is in his hands, Pierre will take it through a gentle pressing with the option of a maceration pelliculaire (essentially macerating the lightly pressed grapes in the must, before continuing with the vinification) followed by temperature-controlled fermentation on the lighter lees. The wines are then run off into stainless steel, still with the lees, where they are stored until ready for the bottle the following year; this latter part of the process is that which entitles the wines to the sur lie suffix.

Excelsior, Muscadet in Extremis

As might be imagined with an enquiring and imaginative mind such as Luneau-Papin's, there is a broad and varied range of cuvées produced here, which in many cases reflect vineyard or terroir of origin. The leading cuvées are the L d'Or, a weighty expression of Melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet grape, which frequently has the substance needed for long ageing, and the Semper Excelsior Clos des Noëlles, a single vineyard cuvée. The first of this pair is the longest established, and visitors to the cellars may be fortunate enough to experience some older examples from Pierre's stock, from an oenological library extending back 30 or so vintages. L d'Or is sourced from vines more than 45 years old grown on granite and mica terroirs in Vallet, one of the Sèvre et Maine communes. The vines are cared for along the lines of lutte raisonnée, and are nourished with just a little organic manure. The fruit is harvested by hand, pressed using pneumatic equipment, and the juice is then allowed to settle before a four week temperature-controlled fermentation by indigenous yeasts, regulated to 20ºC. There is also a warmer macération pelliculaire, a period of skin contact, at 30ºC. The wine is then stored sur lie for nine months before bottling.

The Clos des Noëlles (often simply refered to as Excelsior) is a little different, a cuvée born of a commitment and belief in a terroir, the Schistes de Goulaine, in La Chapelle Heulin, another of the many Muscadet communes. Indeed it is perhaps the closest the region comes to a recognised cru, and Luneau-Papin have been lobbying the INAO for appropriate recognition of the site since at least 2001, with this cuvée as their principal evidence. The vines are 65 years old and are planted on a south-facing slope. As with the L d'Or, the vineyard sees organic manure and lutte raisonnée, the harvest is by hand and the yields are between 25 and 35 hl/ha. The cellar work starts out in a similar fashion also, with a pneumatic pressing followed by settling, cool fermentation and natural fermentation without chaptalisation, but thereafter the two cuvées diverge. Rather than the traditional nine months sur lie, this wine sees 36 months en cuve, with regular bâtonnage before it sees the inside of a bottle. This is a remarkable undertaking for a leading domaine that in every other respect seems very traditional; the wines themselves, on tasting, are no less fascinating and they certainly remain true to Muscadet, although in a richer, more intense style.

Other single vineyard sites include the Clos des Allées and Clos du Poyet bottlings. There is also Les Pierres Blanches, an old vines cuvée from a south-west facing schistous terroir near La Chapelle Heulin. The vines have more than 55 years behind them, and they and the eventual fruit are handled just as for the L d'Or, above. Perhaps the entry-level wines, the Domaine Pierre de la Grange label is comes in standard and Vieilles Vignes formats; both sourced from vines planted on micaschist, gneiss and mica around Le Landreau, the latter is obviously distinguished by the age of the vines, which is over 45 years. Otherwise, once again, it is handled very much like the L d'Or, except the wines are bottled after seven months sur lie. Completing the portfolio, alongside these examples of the Sèvre et Maine appellation, usually bottled after a period of time sur lie, is a Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire and a Brut vin mousseux de qualité made from 40% Melon de Bourgogne, 30% Folle Blanche, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Cabernet Franc all planted around Landreau (on schist) and Vallet (on gneiss).

Having tasted a range of Luneau-Papin wines, including a good selection of L d'Or, both newly released and with considerable age on them, it is clear that quality across the board is very high indeed here. The L d'Or and Semper Excelsior Clos de Noëlles are both very special wines, each one a real vin de garde of the Nantais. The wines are worth buying, cellaring and savouring, and what is more mature vintages can often be found at a very good price. (29/11/07, updated 20/5/09)

Contact details:
Address: 44430 Le Landreau
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 06 45 27
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 06 46 62

Pierre Luneau-Papin - Tasting Notes

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Four brut de cuve samples, which I report on for here academic interest; it was enlightening to taste the influence of the differing terroirs here, and to see the effect of later harvest.

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 2 2008: An unfinished sample from a schistous terroir; good ripe and fresh minerality on the nose, a crisp style, slightly stony, slightly fat. It has good grip and bite on the palate, a really fresh and bright style, and a touch of power too. A nice sample. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 3 2008: An unfinished sample from a granite terroir. A more restrained style here, but stylish in terms of fruit quality. Fine minerally acidity on the palate from the outset, with lots of lively grip, good depth of flavour and a little touch of bitterness which I like. Nice sample. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 4 2008: An unfinished sample from a vineyard rich in serpentinite, a volcanic rock. Very firm minerality here, lively acid and very good definition, with good ripe fruit hiding underneath. Stylish. I like this wine. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 5 2008: An unfinished sample from another serpentinite-rich site, but here with a south-west aspect, harvested 12 days later. A fuller character on the nose, ripe, sweet and aromatic. Not as lively as Number 4, richer instead, but there is still good acidity here. A fascinating comparison. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Pierre de la Grange 2007: The fruit here is assembled from a number of small plots on schistous soils around the winery. The vines are young. It has a nice nose, being clean and a little minerally-steely. Nice mouthfeel too, fresh with firm acids, full style with lots of power. Good but perhaps rather fierce in its character and acid backbone. An update from the 2009 Salon. 15+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Pierre de la Grange Vieilles Vignes 2007: Obviously, the fruit from older vines. A better nose than the preceding cuvée, more expressive, with pure and bright white fruit presented in an attractive and maybe even honeyed style. The palate is broad, full, with plenty of good acidity but also more substance. Good old-vine quality here. Slightly bitter, which I like, with lots of structure, this will age well. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Les Pierres Blanches 2007: Les Pierres Blanches is the name of the vineyard; it is a single plot of vines, aged between 55 and 60 years, with soils of mica-schist and schist. There is a good, elegant, stony nose. The palate has nice definition but is also rounded, rather polished, well balanced, with good bright acidity. I like this one. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2007: Largely a granite terroir for this cuvée. This has a great, ripe, open nose, stylish and elegant, with a very satisfying character on the palate. Rounded and polished it calls to mind a creamy-white stone, with its minerality and beauty combined. Rich yet refined, this is lovely now - but clearly has great potential for the cellar. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2005: A beautiful nose here, hugely expressive, with fabulously open fruit with a ripe and sweet but very fresh character. Great style, lovely purity, gentle and warm and rounded. It has some stony acidity although it is not quite so well defined as some of the other cuvées - the effect of a warmer vintage, perhaps? Rich but it still has a lovely style and freshness. Impressive. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Excelsior 2005: This particular cuvée doesn't seem to have a very expressive nose today. On the palate it has lovely fresh acidity, nicely composed, although it has quite a ripe style, minerally with a chalky acid backbone. Quite mouthfilling in terms of weight, creamy, with a lovely acid bite at the finish. This has fine potential, although I think I prefer the L d'Or in the same vintage - just. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2003: This shows even more honeyed fruit than the 2005, with elements that only come from maturity. This is evolving nicely, showing richness and minerality combined. The palate is very attractive, a sort of sweet-stony combination, with lots of midpalate acidity for balance. This has impressive character, especially considering this was such a warm vintage. I think with time it could surpass the 2005. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Excelsior 2003: This is much richer and more expressive than the corresponding 2005. The palate is fine, superbly defined despite the warmth of the vintage, with a broad although very fine acidity. Elegant yet ripe, nicely balanced, with an appealing bitter finish. This is very, very good indeed. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Excelsior 2002: This has a finely muted nose in comparison to the preceding wines. nevertheless the palate shows some lovely substance, quiet full and broad, with a ripe substance. The acidity is fresh and attractive, although a little muted related to its peers. There is a good stony edge though, nice ripeness, and a firm character. An attractive wine, I think this will do very well given time. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1999: Lots of fine, evolving character here, stony freshness and lovely ripeness combined. Gentle and composed, elegant and rounded, with maturing fruit, the palate shows a very nice integration of acidity behind the clean, maturing style. Still plenty of potential for development here, although just fine now, approaching ten years of age. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1997: There is honey on the nose here, rich and minerally in its character. The palate has a lovely structure, very integrated and stylish, with a fine, honeycomb edge to the pure and stony fruit. Rounded, rich and rather better composed than some of the younger wines, with sweet fruit at the finish. A very impressive wine which is still on the way up. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1996: An attractive depth of colour, a very pale lemon-green gold, suggesting a richness which certainly shows through on the nose, which offers up aromas of smoke, thyme, garrigue and crisp minerals aplenty. The palate is fresh, crisp, laser-like in its precision, with desperately straight acidity backed up by just a little flesh which is mouth-watering when in combination with the crisp, acidic structure. On the midpalate and towards the finish it has a zippy character, with an appealingly sour, slightly sherbetty edge, with a little sea-salt character, that just keeps me coming back for more. But I think it is the fabulous acidity cutting through the ample, slightly rounded style that really sells it to me. This is just divine. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18/20 (February 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1995: This has a pale, lemon-golden hue. A really characteristic nose follows, very lemony, with a touch of suggested richness, overall a sort of lemon-cream effect, although it is not opulent at all. It seems dry, perhaps a little herby and salty. The palate is fairly lean and has an attractive, slightly sour character related to the firm, biting acidity. There is a little weight and substance to counteract this, but not much. Fresh, building a little weight through the midpalate, up to a well rounded finish, all the time with that firm acidity cutting through it, even as the wine lingers in the finish, as it does for a little time. Still potential here I think. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1993: In this vintage the nose has aromas of peach stone, with exotic and smoky fruits, and pine kernels, backed up by a stony, sea salt minerality. It has a well defined, vigorous character on the palate, with fresh acidity. Nicely textured, dry, forceful but gentle and grippy, this wine, although slightly detached, is just brilliant. There is a chalky extract on finish, and some length too. Overall, an amazing, eye-opening wine, of very good quality indeed. 17.5/20 (November 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1990: This, the oldest of the four wines tasted here, has a rich but bright and vibrant golden hue. There is a little bit of honey on the nose, coating the aromas of seashells, smoke and freshly squeezed citrus fruit. The palate is fresh and precise, tense and clean. There is substance here though, this is not so much light and pure as light and gritty. Quite direct overall, a little diffuse at first but then brighter and better defined, eventually revealing a deep pool of texture, weight and bitter, savoury, delicious flavour. Clean, full of lean character, yet also substance and with a good length too. Not my favourite of the group, but very, very good nevertheless. This wine may have a lot more to give yet. 17.5+/20 (November 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1989: Wow - a fabulous nose here, very expressive, with golden fruits just leaping from the glass, with freshness, stone and even some minerality evident in the aromatic profile. The palate is just great; broad, softening, gentle, with wonderful integration. Pure and linear, with great acids, laser-like in their precision, but with a ripe and rounded style of fruit draped on top. This has wonderful composition, rich and pure too. An update from the 2009 Salon. 18/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1982: There is unbelievable purity and life on the nose here, with fresh and unsullied aromas of honeycomb and mineral. The palate is remarkable; it has density, concentration and just stacks of characterful and expressive fruit. On the finish, this wine just goes on and on; it is remarkable! What a great example of how well Muscadet, from the right producer and the right vintage, can age. An update from the 2009 Salon. 18.5/20 (February 2009)