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Langlois-Chateau
The origins of Langlois-Chateau lie in the union of the 23 year-old Edouard Langlois with a young 19 year-old woman from the Vendée - that's Muscadet country - named Jeanne Chateau. Although he had been born to a rural family in 1873, Edouard worked as a vigneron and cellarman in St-Hilaire-St-Florent, just downstream of Saumur and today practicably a suburb of that town. It was here that the newlyweds founded their new winemaking business in 1912, aided by Baron de Bodman who owned Chateau de St-Florent and a number of local vineyards and cellars, the latter being essential as Langlois-Chateau was to focus on the production of sparkling wine above all other styles. Tragically, as Europe was torn apart by the Great War which erupted in 1914, so too was the union of Langlois and Chateau. At 42 years of age Edouard Langlois was killed, just three years after starting up his new venture. In a story that somewhat mirrors that of Nicole-Barbe Clicquot, it was down to the young widow to take on the running of the estate, here assisted by her son Alexis and son-in-law Maurice Leroux.
The family built up a successful business during their tenure, but in 1973
valuable aid came in the shape of Bollinger who acquired a controlling
stake in the business, thus bringing expertise, distribution services, contacts
and of course the potential for investment. Aided by Maurice's son Jean Leroux,
the business was run by Michel Villedey of the Bollinger family. Unsurprisingly
it was rapidly developed, and the portfolio expanded to take in many
of the appellations of the Loire, although it is fair to say that the house is
still most readily associated with the sparkling wines of the region. Today
Villedey remains in control, assisted by production manager François-Régis de
Fougeroux in the cellars, and he has at his disposal an impressive facility at
St-Hilaire-St-Florent, which in recent years has seen considerable expansion
and is now a bustling winery with extensive cellars and an attractive tasting room.
As is perhaps the norm Langlois-Chateau does not cultivate massive swathes of vines; there are vineyards in their ownership, but there are also long-standing contracts with dozens of local growers to provide fruit which is vinified in the production of the sparkling wines, mostly bottled as Crémant de Loire. As mentioned above there are bottlings from across the myriad of appellations of the Loire, a diverse range encompassing Muscadet from the Domaine du Grand Maison and Sancerre from the Chateau de Fontaine-Audon, as well as appellations a little closer to home such as Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur. But a visit to Langlois-Chateau in sleepy St-Hilaire-St-Florent, home to all the leading sparkling wine producers including Gratien & Meyer and Bouvet-Ladubay, is a visit to taste their sparkling wines, and perhaps to tour their cellars. The fruit is sourced from across six regions, the Côtes de Saumur, Coteaux de St-Léger, Puy Notre Dame, Bas Layon, Haut Layon and Montreuil-Bellay, providing a varied mix of terroirs, predominantly the clay and the typical limestone tuffeau of the region but also a little sand and even some schist close to the Layon. Purchased fruit is brought in as grapes rather than must or wine, giving a greater degree of control than might otherwise be the case, and quality is further ensured by demanding hand harvesting into small 25 kg crates. The pressing is pneumatic and light and the primary fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled 100 hectolitre steel vats, with each terroir fermented separately. As these are all Crémant de Loire the process is méthode traditionelle, which dictates that the secondary fermentation be in bottle.
The range of sparkling wines opens with a non-vintage Crémant de Loire which is based on Chenin, with 20% Chardonnay and 20% Cabernet Franc in the blend. Of the Chenin, 10% is reserve wine, and the wine will spend at least two years on its lees before disgorgement, but it remains a very fresh and vibrant style. This is also true of the Rosé, which is purely Cabernet Franc, the colour derived from a twelve hour maceration before the must is taken off the skins. This wine will then spend eighteen months on its lees before disgorgement. A step up is the Réserve, a single vintage wine with the same varietal composition as for the non-vintage cuvée, comprised from selected wines from across all six terroirs which are then refermented before three years on the lees. Finally as far as Crémant de Loire is concerned there is Quadrille, a special selection from four distinct terroirs of clay and limestone at Montreuil Bellay which provides red varieties for the blend, with white varieties grown on more sandy limestone soils at St-Hilaire-St-Florent, St-Léger-de-Montbrillais and Dampierre-sur-Loire. Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are 15% and 5% of the blend respectively, the balance being 30% Chardonnay and 50% Chenin Blanc. Once the secondary fermentation is completed the wine spends four years on the lees before disgorgement. The richness engendered by this process clearly shines through on tasting. Finally there is a red cuvée Carmin Dry, a Vin Mousseux de Qualité, made purely from Cabernet Franc, again sourced from a vineyard of clay and limestone. The wine has a short maceration to give colour and a little structure, and then eighteen months on its lees before disgorgement. The result is enticing and makes a delightful antidote to those bored with New World versions of this wine which often have rather noticeable residual sugar. These are, in fact, all wines worth seeking out, especially when one considers the prices. (16/8/07, updated 14/5/08, 13/8/08)
Contact details:
Address: 3 rue Léopold Palustre, St-Hilaire-St-Florent, 49400 Saumur
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 40 21 40
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 40 21 49
Internet: www.langlois-chateau.fr
Langlois-Chateau - Tasting Notes
Langlois-Chateau Coteaux de Saumur 2007: The first vintage for this wine at
Langlois-Chateau, sourced from Les Bougrons, a hill-top vineyard in the midst of
the Saumur-Champigny appellation. The botrytis was "the best seen in ten years",
the alcoholic potential was 18%, the eventual alcohol 13.5%. A gentle gold hue,
fresh, waxy, a touch savoury. Creamy and slightly gritty, fresh with a low level
sweetness. A very clean style with some appeal. From a tasting and dinner at
Langlois-Chateau in 2010. 16.5/20
(February 2010)
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Langlois-Chateau Saumur Blanc 2006: A very pale hue here, and with a slightly
herby, chalky, sherbetty nose. I am surprised to find in quite soft on the
palate, with subdued acidity, and a gentle and rounded character. It has a
little midpalate substance but otherwise it is rather flat and undistinguished.
I don't find this particularly exciting. 13/20 (March 2008)
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Langlois-Chateau Saumur Vieilles Vignes 2004: This has a great, honeyed,
smoky minerality, a creamy edge alongside a nice, gritty, minerally fruit. The
palate is supple yet vigorous, with great acidity. Lively, finely textured, with
lots of substance, although it maintains a very linear, direct and well-framed
style. A really delicious, surprisingly vivacious wine. From a tasting and
dinner at Langlois-Chateau
in 2010. 17+/20 (February 2010)
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Langlois-Chateau Saumur Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2003: A golden, creamy, honeyed
nose, stylish and very true to its Chenin origin. A very nicely made wine
overall, showing good weight, with a gently silky texture but with decent
structure underneath. Alongside the nice acidity there is a little grip. It has
a short finish, but is really very good for what I often find to be a
disappointing vintage for dry whites. 16.5/20 (March 2008)
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Langlois-Chateau Saumur Vieilles Vignes 2003: A good nose here, stuffed with sweet
and herby fruit. This has a nice weight on the palate, showing a firm and appealing
presence. I like the minerally character this wine possesses, and its stony
grip. This is dry and structured, with fresh red fruit. A good wine, especially
within the context of the vintage which had a tendency to produce soft, baked,
overly-tannic wines in many regions. 15.5/20 (March 2008)
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Langlois-Chateau Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes 2003: This cuvée has notes
of ripe confit fruits on the nose in keeping with the character of the
vintage, dried red-black fruits, cherries especially, tinged with a little
coffee. It has a dark, beautiful and evocative style. Lots of dry structure on
the palate, loaded with tannin, still fresh though, a cool style despite the
richness, the velvety feel and grippy underpinnings. Thankfully, not remotely
baked or cooked. From a tasting and dinner at
Langlois-Chateau in 2010. 17+/20
(February 2010)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Quadrille 2002: This is essentially an extra-brut cuvée with just 4 g/l residual sugar. Disgorgement is according
to demand, which will induce some variation in the wines produced; this
particular sample has seen out six years on its lees. Lightly honeyed fruit on
the nose, rich in tone but also lifted with elements of citrus fruits, even
complex nuance of orange peel. This is much better than any previous taste of
Quadrille I have had. There is a lovely swirling of flavour on the palate, a
melange of variety-based Chenin character with lees-derived elements alongside.
Rather svelte overall, elegant too, but with a firm mousse. A superb effort!
From a tasting and dinner at
Langlois-Chateau in 2010. 17.5+/20
(February 2010)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut Réserve 2002: A pale
straw-gold, with a plentiful bead of moderately small bubbles. The nose is
slightly nutty, rather stony, with an elegant note of praline. Full, exuberant,
slightly sherbetty on the palate but with an attractive, stony, minerally
character. Nicely precise, sharp, with a bright and vivacious style over that
little note of praline again. An exemplary wine which is ready now but no doubt
will do well in the cellar for a few years. 16.5+/20 (July 2008)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut Réserve 2001: The same
composition as the non-vintage, but longer on the lees and obviously a single vintage. There is
more complexity on the nose as a result, and a more appealing depth on the
palate. There is a slightly organic twist too it, with a little more creaminess,
but it is still fresh and appealing. 16-16.5/20 (July 2007)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Quadrille
2001: A couple of weeks ago I visited Langlois-Chateau, first for a
tasting of the 2009 vins clairs, second
for dinner (at which I was more impressed than I expected to be by the still
wines, more on that when I write up my notes). On the way out this gift was
thrust into my hand, so there's my disclosure as to the origin of this bottle. A
good, rich-golden colour in the glass, especially for the Loire. The nose is
similarly rich, with evolved and leesy aromas of honey and Brazil nuts, and some
of this character comes through on the palate too, alongside notes of orange
peel and dried toffee. Yet there is a very dry texture, with a stony feel to it,
the texture of fruit grown predominantly on the limestone around Saumur. The
midpalate concentration could be a little broader though. Overall it is a nice
wine, although admittedly I find the richer autolytic character elements rather
incongruous alongside the lovely and Saumur-typical elements of citrus and
stone. The 2002, tasted at Langlois-Chateau, was far superior and I would have
no problem recommending that vintage over this. 15.5/20 (February 2010)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Quadrille 2000: A real step up here,
this cuvée is positively exotic compared to the straight vintage and non-vintage that went before. There are
nuances of butter and cinder toffee which carry through onto the palate,
although it still has that incisive acidity and remains very fresh as a result.
I like the little bitter edge to its grip. Another good wine. 16.5-17/20 (July 2007)
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Langlois-Chateau Saumur Vieilles Vignes 1999: This has a somewhat more
evocative nose than the 1999, intensely mineral now, suggestive of flint,
volcanic rocks, even touches of quartz. There are also with notes of honeycomb.
Overall, wonderfully scented, and on the palate a fine freshness, rich and
supple, appealing and evolved. And yet it is so fresh and vigorous. A super
wine. From a tasting and dinner at
Langlois-Chateau in 2010. 17+/20
(February 2010)
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Langlois-Chateau Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes 1996: An obviously more mature hue
here, ageing gracefully here, elegant and rather chalky but aromatic fruit. A
fine style on the palate, fresh but still showing a firm tannic backbone. Firm,
but with sweet fruit still, lots of substance here. A remarkable showing from
this wine, exhibiting lots of panache, seductive now and yet still on the up.
Fine continued potential here. From a tasting and dinner at
Langlois-Chateau in 2010. 17.5+/20
(February 2010)
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Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.
Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut NV: Current release. A pale
straw-coloured hue here, and a moderate size of bead, presented as a few sparse
streams of bubbles. Rather yeasty on the nose, with lemony freshness, countered
by a little hint of oiled wood and praline. Fresh and firm, lemony in style on
the palate, with orange peel and nuts. There is a tingling undercurrent from the
mousse, and a soft, creamy underbelly. This is delicious. 16.5/20 (July 2008)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut NV: Current release, tasted at
the domaine. Quite a pale hue. The nose
has plenty of very clean fruit, with a somewhat steely edge. It is floral, fresh
and delightfully acidic. It is uncomplicated but nevertheless very honest,
nicely composed and refreshing. Overall, a good and well defined character that
is very true to its origins. 16/20 (July 2007)
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Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.
Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV: This is 100% Cabernet Franc, the
fruit left in the press overnight to impart colour to the must, then after
fermentation in bottle it is left on its lees for 18 months. A vibrant
salmon-pink hue, vivacious style, good substance too. Bright and vigorous
mousse. Fresh and appealing. Good. From a tasting and dinner at
Langlois-Chateau in 2010. 16/20
(February 2010)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV: Purchased July 2007. Richly coloured, salmon-pink. Stony, redcurrant,
strawberry and cream nose. A little herb and leaf, but subtle. Firm palate, lots
of substance, firm and incisive mousse, lively acidity, but even a little grip
through the finish. This has certainly fleshed out a little when compared with my tasting
note from last year, as it has a much rounded, flashier feel to the palate, although still
plenty of firm grip. Very enjoyable aperitif on a warm, Sunday afternoon. 16/20
(April 2008)
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Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV: Current release,
tasted at the domaine. An attractive, very
pale pink hue. There is admittedly not much to be found on the nose here save
for some redcurrant leaf, but
the fruit seems a little more obvious on the palate where it has a nice
vanilla-tinged strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant character with a nettly
prickle. The mousse is rather gentle but creamy, perhaps more pétillant
than mousseux. Clean and attractive, with a hard, perhaps slightly metallic
core, but I like this wine. A second bottle within a week or two was the same.
16/20 (July 2007)
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Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.
Langlois-Chateau Carmin Dry Vin Mousseux de Qualité NV: Purchased
July 2007. A vibrant colour
here, and an intense red-black, frothing purple appearance. The nose carries blackcurrants,
blackberries and black pepper, and is much less acetic than I recall from my
tastings last year. Lovely, lively,
exuberant sweet and crunchy blueberry and blackcurrant fruit on the palate, but with a firm
backbone of acidity and not over-the-top on texture. A finely crisp finish. It
is short but that hardly matters; it is delicious. and great value for money. 16.5/20 (May 2008)
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Langlois-Chateau Carmin Dry Vin Mousseux de Qualité NV: Purchased
July 2007. There is a little volatile acidity which blows off at first, which I do not
think I have noted previously.
It has a great colour, so deep and covered with a thick layer of purple
bubbles. It has a nose of blackberries, smoke and liquorice, and on the palate a
wealth of deeply flavoured berry fruit. There is good, fresh acidity, and some
considerable tannin at the end. A wonderful lingering flavour. This is
really exceptional value for money, and great fun on a relaxing,
unseasonably warm Saturday
afternoon. 17/20 (November 2007)
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Langlois-Chateau Carmin Dry Vin Mousseux de Qualité NV: Current
release, tasted at the domaine. This is
visually very appealing as you might imagine, and on the nose there are lots of
dark red, smoky, intense fruits, together with some liquorice, which all comes
through nicely on the palate. There is a rounded character, and appropriate but
not sweet dosage which gives a soft, ripe creamy feel, although there is an
attractively bitter grip and a dry finish. Nicely defined acidity helps to keep
it fresh. Again, a second bottle within a week or two was the same. Lots to
admire here, very good indeed. 16.5-17+/20 (July 2007)
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