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François Pinon

A visit to meet François Pinon is a fine illustration of the benefits of forward planning. Take a trip to Vouvray and you will, if you drive around long enough, despite being disorientated and lost, stumble upon a choice selection of great names such as Bernard Fouquet (his cave is buried amongst the back streets), Champalou (to the northwest, on the roads leading out of the town), Huet and Foreau (both on the rue de la Croix Buisée on the east side). You will not, however, stumble upon François Pinon; if he was your nemesis, you will drive back to your hotel or other residence, humbled and dissatisfied.

This is because French appellations usually extend far beyond the boundaries of the town that give them their name. For the best wines of Saumur-Champigny, you might want to travel beyond the suburbs of Saumur to Chacé, for instance. For the best that Chinon has to offer, you need to head upriver to Briançon, next to Cravant-les-Coteaux. It is a similar story with Vouvray; what you must do is drive beyond the rue de la Croix Buisée heading out of Vouvray, towards Chateau-Renault. After a few miles take a left turn, and with a little luck you will soon find yourself in the Vallée de Cousse, and there in the small hamlet of Vernou-sur-Brenne is the home of François Pinon.

And so I pitched up one increasingly warm Tuesday afternoon at Domaine François Pinon. It is not too difficult to find the Pinon residence, for they seem to own half the properties on the road. Opposite the main residence is a barrel bearing the family name, but just a few houses down the road they own another property, where the tasting area is located. Opposite this there are agricultural buildings housing aged tractors, pallets, cages and more of the paraphernalia associated with the vine and its fruit. On the wall there is erected a sign declaring it to be the property of Claude Pinon; these buildings, and the house opposite, were once the domaine of François Pinon's father.

On my arrival François, the seventh generation of his family to take charge at the domaine, was hard at work. He was at the controls of an industrial corking machine, and with the assistance of two cellarhands he guided a steady flow of magnums of Vouvray Mousseux of the 2004 vintage through the contraption, each one receiving a new cork, cap and muselet as he did so. As he finished the batch he turned to greet me, shaking me warmly be the hand. I had a sense of déjà vu for a moment; hadn't I met this man before? Why did he seem so familiar? And then it hit me, and my sympathetic nervous system kicked into overdrive; a slight tachycardia developed, and my mouth began to dry. Here, standing in front of me, in a small hamlet in rural France, was my anatomy professor, circa 1988-1990. He who engendered fear in his students with his pass-fail viva voce examinations, with his silent stares and very deliberate questions, questions to which you knew you were about to offer a wholly inadequate answer.

And then, in an instant, the misty veil lifted from my eyes and I see François Pinon again, and in fact he has nothing more than a passing resemblance to that old academic I once knew. His voice is warmer, his French tones, smattered with a little English for my benefit, are softer, and his look kinder. Also, industrial earmuffs are not usually part of the biomedical academic's attire. Nevertheless, appearances can be deceptive, for the life of a viticulteur was not one that immediately appealed to François Pinon, and he does indeed have a medical background. He initially trained as a psychoanalyst, and enjoyed a successful career before returning to his roots in 1987 to take up the running of the domaine where his father left off. I suspect for devotees of Vouvray Pinon's training was no bad thing; such experience engenders a desire to question, to understand, to improve. When François accepted his new role, he came with a determination not to make any old Vouvray, a wine that would pay the bills and nothing more. He wanted to make something special, and if that meant doing things the hard way, then so be it.

Today Pinon has sway over 14 hectares of vines, scattered in a multitude of locations all around the valley, Some can be pointed out in the distance, whereas others are over the hill behind the house. It is not an uncommon situation; maintaining many different plots can insulate the vigneron against the devastating effects of vine disease, for if one hectare of fruit is lost there are always other distant plots that have hopefully fared better. And a parcellated domaine also makes for a more varied mix of terroirs; Pinon has sections that are clay, some which are flint, and some which provide a mix of the two. The vineyards are predominantly Chenin Blanc, although there is still a hectare of red grapes including Cot and Grolleau. The Cot was planted by Pinon's grandfather in order to provide a red wine for the workers, and there were originally between 3 and 4 hectares. In more recent years much of this has been lifted and replanted, but 1 hectare remains and it is the raw material for a rather good sparkling Touraine rosé which, as I witnessed during my visit, still slakes the thirst of the employees today.

There is no shortage of old vines, with many exceeding 30 and 50 years of age, and new vines are in-house selections rather than nursery clones. The vineyard practices are a combination of the traditional and the modern technique biologique; François is thoroughly organic, eschewing herbicides, pesticides and chemical treatments, and in the humid warmth of the summer of 2008 that meant he was fighting a daily battle with oidium. Not for the first time, of course; the 2006 was even more of a damp squib, as evinced by photographs of the vineyard at harvest time, showing rain-soaked pickers in waterproofs and bunches of rotten grapes (although the mushrooms were fabulous). The Pinons keep a scrapbook of each vintage, holding such photographs, weather reports, jotted notes and more. If you have occasion to visit the domaine, do ask to see them.

The vineyards are ploughed to discourage the weeds and to encourage the vines to root more deeply, using tractors - I did wonder whether Pinon might have gone over to horses, such is his dedication. The yields are controlled using short pruning, and the harvest is 100% manual, remarkable when one considers the fair prices he charges. In the cave, the fermentation uses natural indigenous yeasts and takes place in old wood, followed up by ageing in stainless steel or large foudres. There is minimal racking, filtration and a controlled use of small amounts of sulphur. What results is a fine and interesting range of wines.

Any tasting chez Pinon is likely to begin with mousseux, all méthode traditionelle largely from young vines; there are four such wines, the first three are incarnations of Vouvray, these being non-dosé, with a sugar-free dosage, a brut and a demi-sec, as well the aforementioned Touraine rosé. The vins tranquilles begin with the sec, followed by the demi-sec Cuvée Tradition, which is often described as a sec-tendre. Pinon generally blends his terroirs at this level, although in 2007 has had a little fun and bottled two separate cuvées according to the terroir, labelled Silex Noir and Les Trois Argiles. Then comes the moelleux, and in favourable vintages there may be liquoreux, namely the Première Trie, Cuvée de Botrytis or Cuvée de Novembre cuvées; yields for these latter wines are typically 15 hl/ha, as opposed to 40 hl/ha for the straight moelleux, and the residual sugar hits three figures. They are impressive wines to taste, but I found that to be true of the portfolio as a whole; I was particularly taken with the sparkling wines, which have a fabulously clean delineation, will surely age well, and which without doubt are superb value. (5/8/08)

Contact details:
Address: 55 rue Jean Jaurés, Vallée de Cousse, 37210 Vernou-sur-Brenne
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 52 16 59
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 52 10 63

François Pinon - Tasting Notes

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François Pinon Vouvray Sec 2007: Residual sugar 4.5 g/l. A much more appealing style than the 2006 equivalent here, this has bright and stony-minerally-flinty on the nose, and on the palate it is considerably firmer than the preceding vintage. Lots of good grip, pretty style and a gentle, well composed finish. Very good. 16.5+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Silex Noir 2007: Residual sugar 15 g/l. From siliceous (flint) terroirs, this has a firm and stony nose, although on the palate it shows a softer, rounded and more gentle character than I expected. There is a certain firmness underneath it all though, it has nice definition, good typicité and a touch of spice. Very good. 16.5+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Les Trois Argiles 2007: Residual sugar 16 g/l. This wine is made from clay terroirs, and seems more minerally on the nose than the Silex Noir. Bright and fresh, and on the palate more depth and interest. Good substance, broad and fine, with a little spice. This is very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Sec 2006: Residual sugar 5 g/l. A delicate and rather floral nose here, overall a rather gentle and pretty style. Soft, straight, rather light on the palate, seeming a little detached, unfocused even. It was a difficult vintage. It has a lovely, appealing grip which gives some definition, but it is not the most precise example of the appellation. 15/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition 2006: Residual sugar 21 g/l. Light and papery on the nose, this has some interest. On the palate it has a crystal-like clarity, nice delineation, a touch of cream from the sugar, and overall a rather delicate character. Certainly showing better than the comparable sec. 16+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Moelleux 2005: Residual sugar 81 g/l, acid 4 g/l. This has a much more enticing nose than the 2003; it has a deep complexity already, a heavenly intertwining of stones and beeswax. Rich and fine, with an intricate array of flavours on the palate and a long finish. Excellent wine. 18.5+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée de Botrytis 2005: Residual sugar 152 g/l, acid 4.2 g/l. Very pure character again, very forward and open botrytis character, and following on a very rich palate too. Heady, broad, aromatic and full of exuberant style, it keeps its feet on the ground with a good acid backbone. Very impressive, and another one for the cellar. 18.5+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Moelleux 2003: Residual sugar 60 g/l, acid 3.8 g/l. A great sweetness here, rich honey and brioche intertwined with minerals, this has a wonderful purity. But it still display that gentle style that seems to characterise all these wines, even though on the palate it has quite overt, rich syrupy sponge cake richness. Ripe and yet fresh, especially considering the heat of the vintage. This is very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Première Trie 2003: Residual sugar 103 g/l, acid 4 g/l. Fine and rather understated nose, displaying a good minerality. Very pure - a Pinon trait - with a fine precision to its structure. Well rounded edges, harmonious, with precise balance, this is really very impressive indeed. Will easily do a decade in the cellar, if not two. 18.5+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Brut 1988: This was surely going to be a splendid opening to this mini-tasting - Pinon's sparkling wine, from magnum. Nevertheless, even I am quite taken aback by the confident fizz this still-lively wine shows. The cork is ejected with a convincing pop, and there are a multitude of streams of bubbles in the glass. The wine itself shows a quite fine and good depth of colour. The nose starts out very fresh and even a little stern, with notes of mineral, stones and just a little pear and peach stone fruit, but it then evolves from this subdued beginning to a much rounder, character towards the end. In keeping with this the palate, initially a little austere, opens out to show a wealth of lovely stony and lemony but also creamy, full and fat fruit, with quite a lot of the texture and presence coming from the vivacious mousse. Underneath though it remains firm and structured with strong acidity giving a stony, chalky, bright and incisive style. This is delicious, and has wonderful life for twenty years. From a 1988 vintage twenty years on tasting. 18/20 (September 2008)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

François Pinon Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé NV: Purchased Summer 2008, at the domaine. This is likely to be based on 2005 fruit. The label, by the way, is a design created by Pinon's daughter. This wine has not always been my favourite when comparing it with the straight Brut, which shone when I first tasted it but seems to have faded very slightly since then, whereas this wines seems to be singing more and more. In the glass it has a pale golden appearance, the nose all fresh and floral and smoky, with very bright and precise, crystalline fruit. It has a similar fresh and lively character on the palate, a good substance and a substantial mousse, backed up with deliciously crisp acidity. Overall, a joyful and somewhat minerally style which I find very impressive. I'm looking forward to my next bottle already. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (March 2010)

François Pinon Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé NV: Purchased Summer 2008, at the domaine. A pale golden hue on inspection, and a plentiful bead - as I have noted before. The nose has a lovely, green, nettly, minerally character, with a impressive rocky edge too. Following on the palate has a rich and slightly creamy character, although there's no doubt that this is wine defined by crispness, freshness and acidity. Lovely, fresh, sour and sappy, juicy and mouth-watering, this is a delightful wine which makes great drinking on a warm day (rare I know) or as a fresh aperitif. Delicious. 17/20 (September 2009)

François Pinon Vouvray Brut NV: This wine, purchased at the domaine (six bottles if I recall correctly) in July 2008 has continued to flesh out and develop richness and creaminess since my first tasting, although it retains all the crisp character which I found at that first taste. The palate has great stony minerality, crisp apples and a dry, mouth-watering finish. Very good wine here. 17/20 (May 2009)

François Pinon Vouvray Brut NV: Purchased Summer 2008. A pale, pale golden wine. The nose is more suggestive of yeasty richness than I recall from previously, with notes of honey, lemon, bread-crust and nut all intertwined. Indeed, reviewing my note from July, this has really developed in bottle in the last six or so months. Full, creamy, nicely rounded but also well defined and fresh, with very good acidity and a lively mousse, this has a really good character on the palate. Lots of developed flavours coming through here now, lovely bready, nutty, slightly caramelly flavours, the sort of rich Maillard-reaction flavours that come from seared meat. Really delicious and a higher score for sure. A Christmas wine. 17+/20 (December 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé NV: Purchased Summer 2008. A pale golden hue, and a plentiful bead. There follows a nose of weedy and green elements, with touches of stone, mineral and rock-dust too, perhaps with a little citrusy orange peel alongside. A very taut palate, fresh and loaded with citrus minerality, buoyed along by fine acidity and a crisp mousse. Really very good, fresh and characterful wine. From my 2008 Loire wine tasting notes. 16.5/20 (November 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé NV: Bottled in 2006, just 2.5 g/l residual sugar. Rather papery, minerally, flinty nose. Gentle and bright, not as hard on the palate as I expected, fuller through the midpalate than many similar zero dosage wines I have tasted. A touch of cream to the mousse even, although overall it is certainly overtly dry. A good, clean, floral-tinged finish. A second bottle was just as good. 17/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Brut NV: Also bottled 2006, 12 g/l residual sugar here. It seems very dry on the nose (if that is possible). Bright, clean, minerally, with a lovely, broad, mouth-filling mousse on the palate. It has notes of paper and stone, and has a little more flesh on its bones, whilst maintaining that fresh and cleansing quality. Very good indeed. Another bottle, tasted later, was equally good. 16.5/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Vouvray Demi-Sec NV: Residual sugar probably 20-plus g/l, although there was some confusion over the figures. A stony, smoky, slightly more exuberant character here. A lovely weight, not showing a lot of residual sugar despite its classification, rather it has a full and creamy texture with a little hazelnut richness. This is quite flattering now and I think it would develop beautifully in the cellar. 16.5+/20 (July 2008)

François Pinon Touraine Rosé Brut NV: Cot and Grolleau, residual sugar 12 g/l. A pale, salmon-pink hue, and a rather cheesy nose at present. On the palate it has a really rather austere character, with a very dry substance and a sharp mousse. Leafy fruit, with notes of pepper and strawberries. This would make interesting summer drinking. 16+/20 (July 2008)