Home > Producer Profiles > Loire Profiles > Domaine des Forges
Domaine des Forges
Domaine des Forges is an under-appreciated domaine I think; it strikes me as one of the workhorses of the Coteaux du Layon appellation, slaving away for the good of the appellation's reputation, and yet sadly denied its deserved moment in the limelight. It is occasionally sighted on merchant and restaurant lists, but very seldom seen or heard from on the world's wine forums, even those with a penchant for the Loire. But the wines of Domaine des Forges are worth tracking down, because they have much to offer.
This is a family domaine, located in St Aubin de Luigné, a small hamlet just a few kilometres south of Rochefort-sur-Loire. It is currently under the direction of the third and fourth generations Claude and Stéphane Branchereau. The portfolio of wines produced touches the great appellations of Anjou-Saumur, from Savennières to Quarts de Chaume. They manage their 35 hectare estate with great attention to detail; yields are typically less than 25 hl/ha, and there is manual harvesting in several tries; up to three or four would be quite normal, for both dry and sweet wines. The vinifications are small and multiple, each individual plot fermented separately, and further divided by harvest date. The wines then see some exposure to new oak, although only in large 450 litre casks, thereby damping the impact on the wine. Much of the domaine, perhaps 25 of the 35 ha, is given over to the production of sweet wines, and these are described below, although there are also rosé and red wines produced here.
Probably the finest dry wine available here is the Savennières, which comes from the Clos de Mauriers vineyard. The sweet wines include Coteaux du Layon from the Chaume & St Aubin communes, but this particular aspect of the portfolio is probably led by the particularly fine, single vineyard Les Onnis cuvée. At the top of the list are two moelleux styles, one sourced from the slopes of the Quarts de Chaume, the other being Les Sélections de Grains Nobles, a super-cuvée of Botrytised grapes from Coteaux du Layon St Aubin de Luigné or Chaume.
I cannot honestly state have tasted every cuvée here, but what I have experienced of Domaine des Forges indicates that, with bottle age, this domaine is a fine source for Loire Valley Chenin, both dry and sweet. The wines, recently tasted, all showed classic style, great typicity that belied not only the intrinsic character of the grape but also hinted of the terroir. The sweet wines seem to combine richness and precise, vibrant flavour with a fine acidity that makes them a delight to drink, testament to the care taken in the vineyard here I think. Despite maturity they have plenty of substance and fine acidity, and thankfully I have several more bottles in the cellar to savour over the coming years. Wonderful! (27/4/06)
Contact details:
Address: 49190 Saint Aubin De Luigne
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 33 56
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 67 51
Domaine des Forges - Tasting Notes
Click
to locate
stockists.
Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon St Aubin de Luigné Cuvée des Forges
1996: Vibrant lemon-gold hue. Rather high toned on the nose, apparent after
just a few minutes in the glass, but this dissipates, and the wine is showing
lots of sweetness and character. Lots of impact on entry, quite firmly
structured but also sweet, heady and voluptuous. It has a beautifully gentle yet
creamy style. This is very good, delightful to drink now, but should improve a
little over the coming years, and should drink well for ages. Very good indeed.
17/20 (April 2006)
Domaine des Forges Savennières Clos de Mauriers 1995: A decent, pale
gold hue, but a simply divine nose, brimming with notes of honey, straw,
quinine, and wool, with a fine, mineral reserve. The palate shows the classic
paradox of Savennières, a rich entry, bursting with straw and mineral character,
but with a dry, reserved presence. Lovely acidity, great grippy impact and a
firm, lemony freshness. Fans out just a little on the finish, without doubt this
wine still has years ahead of it. Great length too. 17.5/20 (April 2006)
Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Onnis 1995: Yet again a rich,
golden hue. This has a glorious nose, slightly high toned I note, but with
superb honey and botrytis character. Rich, full, near-opulent, and certainly
expansive wine. An impressive presence on the palate, which has a seamless,
textured style. Flavours of orange peel and blossom alongside the more
characteristic botrytis and mineral elements. Persistent finish. Excellent wine.
18.5/20 (April 2006)
Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Onnis 1995: A rich golden hue, the
depth showing us this cuvée has some bottle age. Beautifully pure mineral-laden
aromas of quince and honeycomb on the nose. Lovely appeal on the palate, which
is full, with a weighty mouthfeel, rich with honeyed botrytis and a level of acidity
that is just sufficient to provide a good sense of balance. Great, persistent character on the finish. Very fine;
I look forward to further bottles of this. From a
1995 vintage Ten Years On
tasting. 18.5/20 (December 2005)
Domaine des Forges
Coteaux du Layon Moelleux 1990: A richer, lemon-gold
colour. A burnt fruit nose. A richer, more luscious
palate, with toffee and spice. Also has superb, fresh
acidity, and higher alcohol. Finishes beautifully. From a
1990 Vintage Ten Years On
tasting. 18/20 (December 2000)
Home - Site index - Site updated July 25, 2008 - © The Winedoctor 2000 - 2008 - Wine Scores - RSS
