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Domaine des Forges

Domaine des Forges is an under-appreciated domaine I think; it strikes me as one of the workhorses of the Coteaux du Layon appellation, slaving away for the good of the appellation's reputation, and yet sadly denied its deserved moment in the limelight. It is occasionally sighted on merchant and restaurant lists, but very seldom seen or heard from on the world's wine forums, even those with a penchant for the Loire. But the wines of Domaine des Forges are worth tracking down, because they have much to offer.

This is a family domaine, located in St Aubin de Luigné, a small hamlet just a few kilometres south of Rochefort-sur-Loire. It is currently under the direction of the third and fourth generations Claude and Stéphane Branchereau, the latter having joined the former in 1996 following experience in Bordeaux and Beaujolais. The portfolio of wines produced touches the great appellations of Anjou-Saumur, from Savennières to Quarts de Chaume. They manage their 42 hectare estate with great attention to detail; yields are typically less than 25 hl/ha, and there is manual harvesting in several tries; up to three or four would be quite normal, for both dry and sweet wines. The vinifications are small and multiple, each individual plot fermented separately, and further divided by harvest date. The wines then see some exposure to new oak, although only in large 450 litre casks, thereby damping the impact on the wine. Much of the domaine, perhaps 25 of the 35 hectares, is given over to the production of sweet wines, and these are described below, although there are also rosé and red wines produced here.

There are several cuvées of Savennières, including one produced from a small rented plot in the Roches aux Moines cru, and another from the Clos du Papillon, a plot acquired by the Branchereaus in 2004. They also own some vines in the Clos de Mauriers vineyard which were acquired by Stephane in 1991; although older vintages are labelled as such, in more recent times this cuvée seems to have been replaced by Moulin de Gué. The sweet wines include Coteaux du Layon from the Chaume & St Aubin communes, but this particular aspect of the portfolio is probably led by the particularly fine, single vineyard Les Onnis cuvée. At the top of the list are two moelleux styles, one sourced from the slopes of the Quarts de Chaume, the other being Les Sélections de Grains Nobles, a super-cuvée of botrytised grapes from Coteaux du Layon St Aubin de Luigné or Chaume.

I cannot honestly state have tasted every cuvée here, but what I have experienced of Domaine des Forges indicates that, with bottle age, this domaine is a good source for Loire Valley Chenin. I have tasted more sweet wines than dry, and not many in recent vintages. Nevertheless those wines tasted all showed classic style, great typicity that belied not only the intrinsic character of the grape but also hinted of the terroir. They seem to combine richness and precise, vibrant flavour with a fine acidity that makes them a delight to drink, testament to the care taken in the vineyard here I think. Despite maturity they have plenty of substance and fine acidity, and thankfully I have several more bottles in the cellar to savour over the coming years. (27/4/06, updated 29/10/08)

Contact details:
Address: 49190 Saint Aubin De Luigne
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 33 56
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 67 51

Domaine des Forges - Tasting Notes

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Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 2008: Minerally and chalky, papery, not really a huge suggestion of sweetness here. Fat palate, moderate acidity, a trace of sulphur, rounded and certainly in possession of some promise. It needs to come together a little more, but could be good. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14-15?/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Forges Chaume 2008: Rather muted, minerally, with more overt sweetness here than the last wine. Still fairly restrained though, although there is a little botrytis to it I think, over a hard core of acidity. Papery sweet finish, attractive, minerally and bright, with a nice vibrancy to the finish. This is young, but it is full of potential. Good. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 15-16+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Forges Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2007: The nose here is showing some gentle fruit, rather muted in style, but there is at least the suggestion of harmony. A similarly soft style on the palate, which has moderate weight and substance at best. The flavours seem quite diffuse, and almost paradoxically there is a hard acidity underneath it all. Cleanly done though. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14-15/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Forges Chaume 2007: A moderately deep colour here, with an impressive golden hue. The nose is clean and minerally, defined, with notes of lemon and orange juice with honey, quince and herbal tea with minerals. On the palate the first impression is of fatness, followed immediately by a firmer character, balancing out in the midpalate, with a lovely texture, fresh and lively, and minerally. Good acids. On the finish there is a deeper woody element, and a hint of tree bark and a little, youthful spirity note too. A good wine, young, but with potential. 16.5+/20 (May 2009)

Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Chaume 2005: Not a very deep colour considering the appellation and the vintage, nevertheless an attractive golden hue. And the nose certainly provides plenty of interest; sweet honey-drizzled pastry and nuts, but also freshness and flower petals. Lovely bright palate, weighty and intense, sweet and balanced too. A good sense of extract and substance, but without being overly rich, flabby or unfocused. The acidity is rather gentle but it seems fairly appropriate for the wine. 17.5/20 (October 2008)

Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin de Luigné Cuvée des Forges 1996: Vibrant lemon-gold hue. Rather high toned on the nose, apparent after just a few minutes in the glass, but this dissipates, and the wine is showing lots of sweetness and character. Lots of impact on entry, quite firmly structured but also sweet, heady and voluptuous. It has a beautifully gentle yet creamy style. This is very good, delightful to drink now, but should improve a little over the coming years, and should drink well for ages. Very good indeed. 17/20 (April 2006)

Domaine des Forges Savennières Clos de Mauriers 1995: A decent, pale gold hue, but a simply divine nose, brimming with notes of honey, straw, quinine, and wool, with a fine, mineral reserve. The palate shows the classic paradox of Savennières, a rich entry, bursting with straw and mineral character, but with a dry, reserved presence. Lovely acidity, great grippy impact and a firm, lemony freshness. Fans out just a little on the finish, without doubt this wine still has years ahead of it. Great length too. 17.5/20 (April 2006)

Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Chaume Cuvée Les Onnis 1995: This wine has a rich but bright golden hue which catches the light quite beautifully. There is a high-toned character to the nose, something I haven't noticed with previous bottles, which at first does a good job of smothering the crystalline fruit. The texture is sweet, deep and plush, but with plenty of fresh, orange-infused acidity beneath, which copes well with a flourish of cream on the finish. There are oranges here, with a bitter Seville character, and a savoury edge. It all finishes very well, with a sappy-sweet but quite grippy style. Not showing quite as well as previous bottles, but still an excellent wine. 18/20 (October 2008)

Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Chaume Cuvée Les Onnis 1995: Yet again a rich, golden hue. This has a glorious nose, slightly high toned I note, but with superb honey and botrytis character. Rich, full, near-opulent, and certainly expansive wine. An impressive presence on the palate, which has a seamless, textured style. Flavours of orange peel and blossom alongside the more characteristic botrytis and mineral elements. Persistent finish. Excellent wine. 18.5/20 (April 2006)

Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Chaume Cuvée Les Onnis 1995: A rich golden hue, the depth showing us this cuvée has some bottle age. Beautifully pure mineral-laden aromas of quince and honeycomb on the nose. Lovely appeal on the palate, which is full, with a weighty mouthfeel, rich with honeyed botrytis and a level of acidity that is just sufficient to provide a good sense of balance. Great, persistent character on the finish. Very fine; I look forward to further bottles of this. From a 1995 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5/20 (December 2005)

Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Moelleux 1990: A richer, lemon-gold colour. A burnt fruit nose. A richer, more luscious palate, with toffee and spice. Also has superb, fresh acidity, and higher alcohol. Finishes beautifully. From a 1990 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18/20 (December 2000)