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Couly-Dutheil

It is 1993, and I am in the Couly-Dutheil tasting room not far from the chateau in Chinon. I'm not sure how I found by way here, but I arrived nevertheless, drawn by a huge sign not far from the tasting room. I am overwhelmed by the tasting opportunities available, white, rosé and red in multiple cuvées, including more than a handful of vintages of Clos de l'Echo. After tasting I bought some of the 1989 (the straight cuvée, this being six years before the introduction of Crescendo) a wine which I continued to imbibe in a state of exhilaration through the 1990s. It was perhaps one of the greatest Loire reds I have ever had the pleasure of drinking.

More than a decade later and I am searching in vain for that tasting room. Everything seems to have changed; the tastings are now offered in a smart little house that sits at the foot of the Clos de l'Echo, and the structure that closest resembles the tasting room of the early 1990s, the memory of which is now quite soft and fuzzy, appears to be a glassware gallery and shop. It is strange how the passage of time dulls the memory, and what few recollections remain can sometimes be erroneously linked together. For instance, I have written in my guide to Chinon and Bourgueil of the time I created a minor flood in a hotel room in Chinon; it was a few years later when I realised, as I suddenly found myself standing outside that same hotel, that it was in Bourgueil, not Chinon. Perhaps I am similarly confused over the tasting room here?

That is not all that has changed. Not only are there today far fewer cuvées offered for tasting, but even at the top end - I sampled a few minor cuvées followed by the 2004 Clos de l'Echo - they seemed less convincing. Was the Couly-Dutheil crown about to slip?

Couly-Dutheil: A History

One of the stalwarts of Loire winemaking, the Chinon firm of Couly-Dutheil was founded in the early 20th century by Baptiste Dutheil. The year was 1921, and Baptiste had settled in Chinon following the recent war, and had subsequently married his cousin, Marie Couly. Baptiste set up as a wine merchant, and in 1925 he purchased part of the Clos de l'Echo. This was a significant acquisition, even though it required completely replanting, having been left barren since the phylloxera epidemic fifty years before.

In 1928 another family member, although only distantly related, moved to Chinon on a sabbatical from his usual position in the Bordeaux wine trade. This was René Couly, who during his time in Chinon met, and subsequently married, Madeleine Dutheil, daughter to Baptiste and Marie. For much of the 20th century René was the face of Couly-Dutheil. It was he who purchased the remaining portion of the Clos de l'Echo, and who oversaw its planting, it too having been laid to waste following phylloxera. With the arrival of new generations, however, control was handed down, first to children Pierre and Jacques, and then grandchildren Bertrand and Arnaud, the sons of Pierre and Jacques respectively. It is these third and fourth generations that have steered Couly-Dutheil into the 21st century, but they are also responsible for the break up of Couly-Dutheil as we know it today. It was during 2008 that I became aware of this impending split in the Couly-Dutheil estate. What seemed like an immutable and historical linchpin, a gem in the appellation, was to be divided. Did this impending break up contribute to the less-than-convincing tasting I experienced at the domaine in 2007? It would not be the first time that difficulties within a family of vignerons manifest as a deterioration in the quality of their wines, the Jaboulet wines of the later 1990s being a classic modern-day example.

It is difficult to know the precise details of the disagreement here, but like all such family fractures it was no doubt a difficult time for all concerned. Indeed, Pierre was reported to be very ill during the process, and one has to wonder if the stress of the break-up contributed towards his poor health. What emerged from this process were two Couly domaines; Pierre and Bertrand Couly upped and left, to start over again in the appellation, whilst Couly-Dutheil itself remained with father-and-son team Jacques and Arnaud. When I met Bertrand in early 2009 he was naturally tight-lipped about the affair, giving nothing of significance away, and quite rightly so I suspect. Family disputes such as these are often painful, the emotions are raw and previously good relationships can be left sullied and sour. The less said the better, perhaps.

Couly Dutheil: Vineyards and Wines

The Couly-Dutheil portfolio is headed up by the aforementioned Clos de l'Echo. This ancient site was allegedly owned by Antoine Rabelais, father to the famed 15th-century writer François Rabelais, whose humorous writings were banned by the Catholic Church. The south-facing vineyard sits directly behind Chinon's grand but rather crumbling chateau, parts of which date back to the 10th century; this age explains its resemblance to a Medieval fortress rather than the grand hunting lodges, of which the most famous date from the Renaissance, which can be found elsewhere along the Loire. It has a history unrivalled by the vines next door, having been a residence of Plantagenets Henry II and Richard the Lion Heart, the latter having died here, and it was visited by Joan of Arc several hundred years later. Today the 14th-century Tour de l'Horloge, shown left, towers above the vines and the town, and the echoes produced by the fortress walls give the vineyard its name.

Underfoot in the Clos de l'Echo are soils of clay and quartz, and beneath those is tuffeau, the limestone that characterises the best quality sites in Chinon. This particular terroir produces more structured wines of greater depth than those from the sand and gravel vineyards nearer the Vienne. The vines have a favoured position, facing south on the highest point in the town, affording them excellent exposure to the sun's rays. Between some rows the soil is grassed, to increase competition for nutrients, between others ploughed, to encourage the vines to root deep.

Come harvest time there is great attention to detail, necessary in the northerly Loire if one wishes to make a truly great red wine. Selected plots in the clos are harvested separately, as demanded by the differing maturation of the vines. There is selection both in the vineyard and at the winery, where the bunches are destemmed before being vinified in separate parcels. The must may be warmed a little to encourage the yeasts, and the temperature may be kept up during fermentation to improve extraction. There is light mechanical pigeage rather than pumping over. The wine goes into oak for eighteen months, up to 20% of which is new, where the malolactic occurs. Since 1995, however, the Clos de l'Echo has also given rise to Couly-Dutheil's prestige cuvée, Crescendo. Whereas the 17-hectare clos is generally harvested at yields of about 40 hl/ha, 2 hectares of vines destined for Crescendo are pruned down to just 20 hl/ha. Understandably this concentrated cuvée sees more new oak, and is produced in small quantities; just 400 cases is typical.

The remainder of the portfolio contains a number of cuvées of Chinon, mainly red, of which Clos de l'Olive is probably the best. There is also a white Chinon, not a common sight, named Chantereaux, and a domaine rosé. The Cuvée René Couly is a blend of the best Chinon crus, often wine bought in by the family firm; although they own 90 hectares, Couly-Dutheil vinify the fruit of 130 hectares in total. And outside the appellation, they can be found producing Bourgueil, St Nicolas de Bourgueil and even Saumur-Champigny. But without doubt Clos de l'Echo eclipses all of these wines, an assertion I first made in 1993, as outlined above.

More recent tastings of Clos de l'Echo have reaffirmed my thoughts that, in the best vintages at least, this particular vineyard is one that Chinon savants should not overlook. The marvellous 2002 and 2003 vintages are prime examples, and the purchasing behaviour I exhibited in 1993 has been repeated; these wines are to be found in my cellar, and I look forward to watching these wines mature over the coming years. But I also have doubts about Couly-Dutheil as a whole, and even sometimes about Clos de l'Echo. First, although the wines can be great in favourable vintages, in lesser years I often find the wines less convincing, whereas other vignerons of the appellation, such as Baudry and Alliet, seem able to make more charming wines under these conditions. A tasting of the less than compelling 2004 Clos de l'Echo at the estate when I visited in 2007, as discussed above, brought this thought to the fore once again. There were mitigating factors though, as it is possible that the then pending division of the estate may have had some detrimental effect. And having said that, it is only fair to point out that the 2005 Clos de l'Echo, tasted in early 2009, showed much more depth and elegance.

Secondly, the range of wines here is broad and we perhaps should not expect that they are all prime examples of their type. Again, in good vintages some may be charming, but at other times some are less so. Although this is a must-taste estate for those who wish to know the wines of the Loire, an estate which has provided me with my most vivid Chinon tasting experience in the shape of the 1989 Clos de l'Echo, it is also one where it is wise to consider new purchases carefully, search for published opinions on the wines - such as those I provide below - and preferably taste first. (8/11/05, updated 31/8/07, 2/9/09)

Contact details:
Address: 12 rue Diderot, 37500 Chinon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 97 20 20
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 97 20 25
Internet: www.coulydutheil-chinon.com

Couly-Dutheil - Tasting Notes

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Couly-Dutheil Chinon Blanc Les Chantereaux 2006: An appealing nose, fresh white fruits here, rather forceful, deep and rounded in character. Full of flavour on the palate. Lots of depth, quite stony, all packaged very nicely. There is good style here. 16/20 (August 2007)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 2005: Rich and dark on the nose, yet also seemingly distant and muted. Perhaps this 2005 is beginning to close down? A creamy weight, gentle - like single cream rather than anything bigger - with a harmonious texture and composition. There are good, firm acids and lots of youthful grip, but some funky elements to it as well. A big style of wine, from a great vintage, this stands out from the other wines tasted here by a mile. It should be great, but with it closing down I have only given it tentative range of possible scores. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 17.5-18.5+/20 (February 2009)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 2004: Again, this wine isn't showing too favourably today. It has a fairly light colour and plenty of freshness and lift, but unlike the 2002 which is so nicely composed, this comes across as a little coarse on the palate. A little hard, ungiving, tannic, without the texture or fruit to compensate or clothe these criticisms. Again, I will have to reserve judgement, although I would certainly place it as inferior to the 2002. 15-16.5+?/20 (August 2007)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon 'La Chatelière' 2003: This is dark red, with still a little purple at the rim. The nose has notes of butter, with smoke, gravel, green mint, berry fruit and capers. On the palate it is very structured, reserved, less fat and rounded than when previously tasted, showing a more austere structure, with some attractively bitter tannins and very firm acidity. There is quite a hard finish and a rather appealing reserved nature to this wine. Plenty of character here; this should continue to do well in the cellar. 16+/20 (March 2007)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon 'La Chatelière' 2003: Still a deep, purple hue. A buttery nose, with ripe berry and forest fruits, backed up by a smoky edge. Full palate, packed with flavour, and still showing obvious, awkward youth. Soft, ripe, supple tannins lend structure but do not distract. Almost chewy, tarry, tobacco-laden nuance to the finish. My first impressions were, I think, correct; this cuvée has piles of potential. Today it shows even more texture. Very good. Leave another 3-4 years at least. 16+/20 (August 2005)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon 'La Chatelière' 2003: Two bottles tasted within a week or two. Fruit from the gravel slopes, areas which usually produce lighter wines than those from the tuffeau. A vibrant, deep, youthful hue. Ripe and smoky berry fruit on the nose, with not a hint of green in sight. Fresh and vibrant acidity on entry, followed up by sweet, peppery, tobacco-edged fruit. A real juicy, mouth-filling texture. That acidity remains taut throughout the palate although there is more than enough texture and fruit to cope. Very youthful. Just a lick of tannin at the finish. Should improve over 2-3 years. This may be a great vintage for Loire reds. 15.5+/20 (August 2004)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 2003: Rich, deeply coloured wine. Typical youthful Loire Cabernet Franc on the nose, with very primary aromas of sun-dried tomatoes and green peppercorns backed up by some black bramble-jelly fruits. Fine palate, balanced and elegant, showing more bramble-jelly character with a smoky, mineral, tobacco presence. Great, almost seamless palate. Plenty of fine, structured tannin and acidity here, and a little bite of extract too. This is fine, and should perform well in the cellar, as suggested by the coating of tannin on the finish, fresh balance and welcome fruit. And it has lovely persistence. Very good indeed, excellent potential. 18+/20 (November 2005) Label

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo Crescendo 2003: This vintage has a more dark and glossy hue than the 2002. And wow! The first aromas that rise from the glass also indicate that this is a special wine, with stylish and yet vibrant mineral, smoky, tobacco leaf character. You can sense a tense nervousness in the wine. Having said that the palate has a lovely freshness, and although quite precisely structured isn't as edgy as the nose might suggest. It is warm, ripe, not voluptuous but full and creamy, backed up by a fine acidity. Ripe, slightly grippy tannins, cigar and tobacco-edged fruit, overall finely structured. A great example of Cabernet Franc from a great vintage. Excellent. 19+/20 (November 2005) Label

Couly-Dutheil Interdit (Vin de Table) 2003: The result of harvesting Chenin Blanc in two tries, the second of which was as late as December, producing a sweet wine with 100 g/l of residual sugar. The local appellations don't allow for this, of course, hence it is bottled as a vin de table and labelled Interdit ("forbidden"). Not a particularly exuberant nose, but there are some notes of botrytis present. It has a rather light, lifted character. It does not have a great deal of concentration in truth. It has some appeal, is certainly clean and of some character, but in all honesty I find it an interesting curiosity rather than a wine of high merit. 15/20 (August 2007)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 2002: An appealing, lifted nose here, with red fruits and a floral, mineral element. The palate has an elegant composition, quite well defined, without too much weight. In truth I am not sure this is showing too well today, it has all the lifted elegance that I might expect from Clos de l'Echo, definition, freshness and acidity, but none of the substance. It finishes a little short but it is all nicely integrated and subtle. I think this has the potential to do well in the cellar, but would like to retaste to be sure. Thus my score is very non-committal. 16-17.5+?/20 (August 2007)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo Crescendo 2002: This 20 hl/ha super-cuvée is a much deeper, darker, more glossy hue than the usual Clos de l'Echo colour. A little smoky on the nose, with conserved damson fruit, with floral, tarry tones, with notes of red fruits too. A very masculine presence, full and weighty, although rather closed at present, showing only nuances of dark fruits spliced with more complex redcurrant and cranberry character, and even a little tomato leaf. Wonderfully ripe style, surrounded a fine acid structure at the core. This is impressive and would do well with the cellar time it so obviously needs; probably five years minimum, although it will drink well for some time after. 17.5+/20 (November 2005) Label

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 2001: A decent colour, although not showing a lot of depth. Quite delicate and floral on the nose, showing some lovely black cherry blossom with a tarry edge and a note of tobacco. Medium weight, attractive, with an elegant presence developing through the midpalate A very fine, firm structure of chalky-dusty tannins and nice acidity, with some more black cherry and bramble fruit. A little flourish of tannins on the finish suggests this will improve in the cellar over the next two to three years. Right now it needs four hours in the decanter before it begins to really open up. Not a great vintage for Cabernet Franc, but nevertheless this is very good. 16.5+/20 (November 2005) Label

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo Crescendo 1999: This has fruit. After the preceding two wines it is a pleasure. There is also quite noticeable oak apparent on the nose, and to be critical the wine does seem a touch attenuated. On the palate, the fruit and substance just isn't there, and I don't think it has the depth or structure to cope with the oak here. Other vintages have certainly been more successful than this. 15.5/20 (August 2007)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 1997: This wine seems to show quite differently compared to my last bottle which was a little more than a year ago; here we have a rich mahogany colour, although it is run through from the centre to the core with a burnt cherry pigment; the previous bottle looked much fresher. The nose has a mature character, not in great abundance though; this is all quite subtle. The first impressions are of iron and violets, with smoke and stone, and overall it seems less green than I recall. The palate is gently broad, quite nicely balanced but overall a little lean and with prominent texture, coming through as a sappy-sour finish. It has plenty of appeal, especially with its fresh, savoury, food-friendly structure, but overall this shows less well than previously. It is a matter of bottle variation rather than development I think. 16.5/20 (September 2009)

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 1997: There is a vibrancy to the wine in the glass, a raspberry red hue which stretches out to the very rim of the wine, with a tinge of maturity but no more than that. The nose is immediately packed with celery seeds and raspberry leaf, but then shows some mineral and iron-tinged fruit, which has a cherry skin profile. Alongside are very forward green peppercorn aromas with a seam of darkly coloured garden mint. There is a fine texture and weight to the wine on entry, and the midpalate broadens to fill the mouth. The peppercorn fruit pervades, but this is matched by a good substance and is framed by an appealing, minerally acidity. There is freshness and light in abundance here, and at the end, a little note of coffee grounds, and a delightfully complex length. This is really very good indeed. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18+/20 (May 2008)