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Clos Roche Blanche

Not far from the grandeur of Chateau Chenonceau in Mareuil-sur-Cher, upstream of Tours, lies the peace and tranquillity of Clos Roche Blanche, an understated domaine of 18 hectares on the bank of the Cher. The domaine was established by the Roussel family who planted the vineyards as the 19th century drew to a close. In 1975 Catherine Roussel was the latest generation to take control of the family domaine, and she was subsequently joined by Didier Barrouillet, once a mathematician. Of note, neither have any formal oenological qualifications, each having acquired what they know through raw experience, trial and error. Together the duo, with the assistance of a lone employee, carry out all the daily tasks involved in running a domaine, from the vineyard through into the cellars.

The Vineyards & Wines of Clos Roche Blanche

The domaine was once somewhat larger than it is today, having covered as much as 28 hectares at one time. Today there is certainly less than that, a recent count coming up with a figure of 18 hectares although, as I explain further down the page, the domaine is still contracting in size, and dramatically so. Of the current vineyard about half is planted to red varieties, a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pineau d'Aunis and Cot (Malbec), the other half planted to white, namely Sauvignon Blanc although there is also some Chardonnay. The vines are on the whole mature, with some of the Cot having more than 100 years under its belt.

The soils underfoot are nutritionally poor clay and flint, and the rows between the vines are covered over in the centre with grasses, wildflowers and weeds to provide competition for surface water and to encourage a diverse insect population. Barrouillet (shown left) also ploughs either side of the vine, but he shies away from turning the soil as he believes that that over-cultivation - especially upending the soil when the temperature is low, threatening the vitality of the microbes in the upper layers - is detrimental to the health of the vineyard. Instead he focuses on just lifting the grass either side of the vines, a process that would to some extent also discourage superficial root formation. In addition there are fields left fallow around the vineyards, where wild plants and weeds grow freely, a further haven for insects and other wildlife. The belief is that encouraging diversity in this fashion reduces vine disease and the need to apply treatments, whether chemical or organic.

On the same theme, with the 1995 vintage the vineyards were completely converted to organic viticulture, as certified by Ecocert, and subsequently elements of biodynamics were introduced, both Roussel and Barrouillet keen to maintain the health of their vines through increasing biodiversity even further. More recently, however, the duo have distanced themselves from some of these methods, eschewing even accepted organic treatments. Today any treatments applied to the vine are likely to be vegetal or herbal infusions, typically based on nettles although other plants can be used. Barrouillet combats Esca, an increasingly prevalent vine malady which has a peculiar preponderance for Sauvignon Blanc, by planting wild leeks - harvested from distant vineyards - which encourage the coating of the vine roots with beneficial fungi thus boosting the health of the plants. He seems to have had some success with this, although it is not a universally accepted treatment.

As you might expect all the fruit at Clos Roche Blanche is harvested by hand, pressed using pneumatic equipment, and then fermented in a variety of vessels which might include old tronconic oak vats or new barrels, with the option of temperature control. Sulphur is avoided on the whole, Roussel and Barrouillet preferring to use carbon dioxide to ward off oxidation instead. The wines are handled minimally, in a very 'natural' fashion, and unsurprisingly are often bottled unfiltered. Much of this comes through in the wines, which are typically fresh and vibrant, whether they be red and white. Their low-sulphur philosophy might increase the risk of oxidation down the line, although in my limited tastings of this estate's wines this isn't a problem that has materialised. The principle wines include a number of individually numbered cuvées of Sauvignon Blanc which range from the big, structured and grippy through to fresher, lifted and more exotic styles. There are also a number of red cuvées including Gamay, Cot and Cuvée Pif - named for their dog - which is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Cot. These all have the lean texture that we would expect from these varieties in Touraine, but it is their great vivacity and fresh acidity that keep the Clos Roche Blanche addicts coming back for more.

Clos Roche Blanche: The Future

It is clear that Clos Roche Blanche and its proprietors Roussel and Barrouillet hold a very special place in the hearts of many Loire-o-philes. The domaine enjoys a global following, although it is particularly strong in the USA, where the wines have been imported and sold for many years by Louis Dressner imports. But as I have already alluded, it is a domaine that is shrinking in size, as Roussel and Barrouillet rationalise their holdings. Some were sold to Junko Arai, the Japanese proprietor of Les Bois Lucas in 2002, who not long afterwards offered employment to a certain Noëlla Morantin, a name that will soon be very familiar to all fans of Clos Roche Blanche. With a continued desire to decrease the area of land they work, Roussel and Barrouillet subsequently made Morantin herself an offer she couldn't refuse, the chance to work a large proportion - 8.5 hectares, in fact - of the Clos Roche Blanche vineyards, and thus make her own wine. And thus today Clos Roche Blanche is effectively even smaller, many of the vineyards being exploited by Morantin from the 2009 vintage onwards. Fans of Roussel and Barrouillet and their wines, their numerical Sauvignon cuvées, Gamay, Cot and Pif, might just find it a little harder to lay their hands on these bottles in future. (1/12/09)

Contact details:
Address: 19 Route Montrichard, 41110 Mareuil-sur-Cher
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 54 75 17 03
Fax: +33 (0) 2 54 75 17 02

Clos Roche Blanche - Tasting Notes

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Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée No. 2 2009: To be bottled in March 2010. An intense nose here, very lively and wild in character, with some evocative fruit elements including notes of lime and greengage. The palate is very appealing, showing a good focus with a grippy edge to it as well. Lots of substance, and lots of structure too. Moderately short finish, but still a remarkable wine for the variety in question. I returned the next day and liked it even more, and my score reflects this second impression. From a Clos Roche Blanche 2010 update. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Gamay 2009: A very bright and stony style of Gamay on the nose, although it is highlighted by notes of rubber and volatility, thankfully underneath this there is a darker red fruit character. The palate shows a much fresher style, lively and well-defined, rather stony, lightly tannic and with a direct, linear midpalate. Overall, well composed, with a little length. From a Clos Roche Blanche 2010 update. 16+/20 (February 2010)

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Cabernet 2009: A rather tight and withdrawn fruit character on the nose, not closed, more tensely coiled and young. It is also attractive, tinged with floral Cabernet Franc character. Clean and stylish, with a nice stony palate, defined and linear, with evident style despite the wine's very slim texture. Ripe tannins, gentle and balanced, fresh acidity, well balanced with the wine's substance. Really nice wine here. From a Clos Roche Blanche 2010 update. 17+/20 (February 2010)

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Cot 2009: A great colour, glossy and bright, a mile away from the other wines tasted here. Great minerality, dense and warm, with compact fruit. A sweet character to the fruit on the palate, although it is lean and dry in terms of texture, with a stony-minerally style. Straight, defined, although more rounded with tannic substance in the finish. A good style. From a Clos Roche Blanche 2010 update. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée No. 2 2008: This cuvée of Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in stainless steel, and undergoes 100% malolactic fermentation. I don't find it very expressive on the nose; it gives the impression of a full and perhaps earthy rather than bright style, otherwise it gives little away. Indeed, the palate is full and very grippy, even a little spicy, with a big and substantial character with a savoury style. It has a good and grippy finish too. This has a remarkable structure for a Sauvignon Blanc, and surely deserves due credit, but I just don't feel it is showing its full potential today. 15.5-16.5+?/20 (February 2009)

Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée No. 5 2008: A return to this wine one year on, as I first tasted the 2008 No. 5 at last year's Renaissance tasting. It has a much wilder and atypical nose than No. 2; does the fermentation in oak contribute to this characteristic? Attractive palate, structured and broad, mouthfilling rather than sharp, although it has a quite intense composition. Bright, commanding, lively, firm and substantial body. Good wine. From a Clos Roche Blanche 2010 update. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée No. 5 2008: This wine is fermented in small 12-15 hectolitre oak barrels, and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. It is much more expressive than No. 2, with a little passion fruit on the nose, and a little herby sweetness too. Nevertheless, it does also seem a little disjointed and diffuse at present, but I think this is just the awkwardness of youth. It is fresh, and better defined on the palate. There is substance, but a fresh, green fruit character. Lots of body too. This is really interesting. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Gamay 2008: Slightly earthy fruits on the nose here, an interesting character, good depth with a little touch of vanilla. The palate has a well-judged substance with good freshness, with a nicely sappy, gently broad and balanced character. Good acidity too. This wine, with its gentle fruit and poise, really hits the spot. A very good effort. 15.5-16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Pif 2008: This blend of Cabernet Franc and Cot is named after Catherine and Didier's dog, Pif. The nose here isn't too expressive, showing some herby Cabernet fruit, but there is certainly an appealingly fresh style on the palate. Broad and yet nicely crisp, with bright herby-stony fruit, followed by a surging grip and structure. Overall though, nicely balanced. Good. 16-17+/20 (February 2009)

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Cot 2007: An interesting nose here, fresh and with a little liquorice perhaps, clean and slightly chalky substance. There is plenty of good acidity here, and a good balancing substance too. A nicely made wine, clean, very drinkable, perhaps a touch closed down and inexpressive today, but nevertheless there is palpable quality here. 16-17+/20 (February 2009)