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Domaine de la Butte

I think it is reasonable to consider the modern history of Domaine de la Butte as beginning a little upstream, in Montlouis. Here during the 1980s Jacky Blot (pictured right) was busy cementing his reputation as a vigneron of quality at Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, working with a few hectares of vines in both Montlouis and, across the river, in Vouvray. With said reputation quite firmly established he looked to expand, perhaps encouraged by his daughter, Anne-Françoise, who now works alongside him. He could have increased his holdings in Montlouis, perhaps (indeed, this is something he has done more recently) but instead he looked further afield, away from these entirely white appellations. Eager to apply his rigorous methods to the harvest and vinfication of red grapes, he naturally looked to the nearby appellations of Chinon, Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil.

Jacky's aim was to find a property with a great terroir, away from the alluvial plain of the Vienne and the Loire which, although bountiful and easier to work, does not provide wines of such interest or quality. His gaze soon fell on a property in Bourgueil, Domaine de la Butte, an estate blessed with 14 hectares of vineyards situated up on the slopes overlooking the plain, sitting very close to the forest behind it, a site which afforded not only a desirable terroir but also a favourable mesoclimate. Underfoot the soils were relatively thin, a light layer of sand on clay, with the bedrock very close beneath. Near the top of the slope this is a yellow limestone, further down a whiter rock. This differentiation in terroir as you move up or down the slope would be fundamental to Blot's division of his vineyards, with the top, middle and bottom parts of the slope each yielding a separate cuvée. The deal was struck in 2002 and Blot took charge of the vinification straight away, although it was not until the 2003 vintage that he had full control over both viticulture and winemaking.

The Butte Vineyards and Wines

The vines of Domaine de la Butte are all Cabernet Franc, no Cabernet Sauvignon has been retained. On taking over the vineyards missing vines have been replaced using massale selection from the vineyard rather than clones, planted on Riparia rootstock. Despite this program of work the average age of the vineyard is still 40 years, although this varies according to the vineyard; at the top of the slope (Haut de la Butte) it is 10-15 years, at the foot of the slope (Pied de la Butte) and in the nearby Perrières plot it is 30-40 years, whereas at mid-slope (Mi-Pente) it is more than 50 years.

The vines are pruned to just six buds in a Guyot simple method, the soils may be augmented with organic manure, and the philosophy of care is one of lutte raisonnée. The weeds are controlled by ploughing, a practice which also removes superficial roots, forcing the vines to dig deeper for their water and nutrients. Although the pruning is quite severe, the control of yields is augmented by debudding and a green harvest, and subsequently there is leaf-thinning in order to aid ripening and facilitate the eventual picking. The yields achieved are thus 35 hl/ha or less (much lower than the permitted yield for the appellation which is 55 hl/ha), although notable exceptions include 2008 (17 hl/ha) and 2003 (25 hl/ha). The harvest is done entirely by hand, the process being very similar to the one developed by Blot at La Taille aux Loups; inadequately ripe or rotten fruit is eliminated both at the picking stage and also at the first sorting on a table de tri placed in the vineyard. The fruit is then transferred to the winery in 20 kg crates where it is destemmed before undergoing two final sortings, the first by hand, the second by a Mistral blower which aids the elimination of damaged grapes, leaves and other non-grape matter. The subsequent fermentation takes place in large open vats, oak for the top cuvées, concrete for the other wines, with a little pigeage but mostly pumping over. There is no addition of yeast. What happened then depends on the origin of the fruit and the eventual cuvée. Pied de la Butte sees six months in steel vat before bottling, whereas the Haut de la Butte goes into a mix of barrels aged between one and three years. Both the Perrières and Mi-Pente cuvées see new, one and two-year-old barrels for 14 and 16 months respectively.

It is his dedicated commitment to perfect quality fruit followed by a fairly standard and natural fermentation that has seen Jacky Blots' reputation rocket. Like all the producers of the Loire he does not get a huge amount of press, but those who have noticed his work recognise its quality. Charles Sydney (who works with Blot and thus admittedly has a vested interest in the domaine) rates it top of a list of the Loire's greatest wine estates which he penned for Tom Stevenson's 2008 Wine Report. Having tasted recent vintages, as well as a vertical of Mi-Pente, which could be regarded as the top cuvée (although no doubt some would favour Les Perrières), I would have to agree that the quality here is excellent. (2/6/09)

Contact details:
Address: La Butte, 37140 Bourgueil
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 97 81 30
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 97 99 45
Internet: www.jackyblot.fr

Domaine de la Butte - Tasting Notes

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Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Pied de la Butte 2007: There is a slight smokiness and stoniness to the character on the nose, with a light fruit chraracter. It has appeal, though. Gentle stony fruit on the palate, nicely structured, with some tannic grip. Straightforward but very drinkable. 15+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Le Haut de la Butte 2007: Tasted once at Charles Sydney's tasting, and once a day or two later with Anne-Françoise Blot. There is nice density of fruit here, with a smoky, meaty edge. Clean and a little perfumed. The palate shows some substance and elegance, with ripe tannins and a sweetness to the fruit. Chalky violets and a good texture. Attractive wine. 15-16+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Les Perrières 2007: Blot owns a small parcel in this vineyard near the foot of the domaine. Attractively perfumed, good concentration of fruit, fresh and ripe. Dry and reserved on the palate despite this open and seductive style on the palate, nice extract, and a good grip too. This has the texture and fruit substance to do well with a little bottle age. A very successful wine in view of the vintage. 16-16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2007: Tasted once at Charles Sydney's tasting, and once a day or two later with Anne-Françoise Blot. The first sample seemed reduced and was impossible to judge. The second, soon to be bottled, was much better; rich and concentrated violetty fruit on the nose, with honeyed oak elements. Nicely perfumed, black fruit profile. Rich but unintegrated on the palate, slightly awkward, showing a lot of firm grip and tannin, although there is a lots of smoothly polished fruit substance too. Lots of attractive potential here. Very good potential. 16-17+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2006: From magnum. Rich, deep and slightly meaty fruit on the nose. This is certainly more concentrated than the 2007 above, and it has an attractive perfume too. The palate is full and rich, smoothly polished, but with lots of texture underneath. This is a big, concentrated and yet balanced style, rounded off by a big, grippy finish. Excellent potential I think. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2005: From magnum. This has beautifully poised fruit on the nose, elegant, with a fine, rather claretty violet perfume. Nevertheless it is quite restrained on the palate, firm and tannic, with a lot of structure underneath. Nice balancing acidity. This has just bags of potential, but it needs a lot of time. A finely composed wine. 18+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2004: From magnum. A maturing colour here, a marked contrast to the youthful 2005. Meaty fruit, nicely styled on the nose. It has texture and balance on the palate, although there is a green edge to the fruit. Interesting hints of mint, roasted meat and macerated fruit. Overall a very attractive wine, still showing plenty of tannin and grip. A good wine. 16.5/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2003: From magnum. Claretty, maturing, meaty-rusty fruit here; this has a really attractive style. On the palate it is rich, mouth-filling, and in possession of a rather exotic fruit character, combined with the meaty, violetty maturity. This all sits on a good backbone of tannins, texture and acidity. An appealing wine with an almost chocolatey finish. A really good performance here in this hot vintage. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2002: From magnum. Vinified by Blot, although he wasn't responsible for the vines in this vintage. This is really quite evolved on the nose, and it has a stylish palate, showing a good, polished substance. It seems a little firm and ungiving, with lots of tannin, although it doesn't quite have the fruit richness and sense of substance that the later wines possess. Very appealing though. 16.5/20 (February 2009)