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Bernard Baudry
Bernard Baudry was born into a family of winemakers in Cravant, and studied oenology at the Lycée de Beaune before he found his way back to the Loire. He first worked as viticultural advisor in Tours, before he struck out on his own, establishing a 2 hectare vineyard in Chinon. This was in 1982, and over the two decades and more since then the domaine has expanded to give Baudry more than 30 hectares of Cabernet Franc. He is now joined by his son Mattheiu, who I met briefly on my visit here in 2008, who has returned to the family domaine following his studies in Mâcon and Bordeaux and subsequent experience in Tasmania and California. The estate is carefully managed, with debudding to control yields and manual harvesting, before separate vinification of the fruit according to the vineyard of origin; in doing so he produces two white cuvées in very limited quantities, although it is the five separate cuvées of red thus created that attract me to the domaine.
The entry-level is
Les Granges, a wine produced from 6
hectares of vines planted on alluvial sand and gravel soils on the banks of the Vienne between 1985 and 1988; these are some of Baudry's youngest vines and they
also have the most difficult time; when the Vienne bursts its banks the vineyard
can flood, and Baudry has been known to undertake pruning from a rowing-boat.
Yields are 40-50 hl/ha, and fermentation is temperature-controlled in stainless
steel, the intention being to produce a fresh wine for early drinking. Then
comes La Domaine, labelled simply as Bernard Baudry Chinon. A blend
of Chinon's two major terroirs, this wine mixes 75% fruit from gravel soils with
25% grown on limestone slopes. The vines are up to 35 years of age, and are
harvested at 35-45 hl/ha. The fruit is fermented in cement vats, and the
resulting wine has more structure than Les Granges, and can improve with short-term
ageing. Les Grezeaux is another gravel cuvée, from a site with a clay subsoil.
The vines for this wine are up to sixty years old, Baudry's oldest, and are hand
harvested at a yield of 40 hl/ha. It is fermented in cement, but then sees
typically a year of barrel ageing, in wood which is between one and five years old. Again
this is a wine with more structure, capable of showing improvement in the
cellar.
The two top cuvées are Clos Guillot and La Croix Boisée. The former is produced from young vines, planted between 1993 and 2000, but nevertheless possesses a quality which does not betray its youthful origins. This may reflect the fine terroir, chalky limestone, which gives rise to Chinon's greatest wines, with some clay. Yields are kept down to 40 hl/ha, and the fruit is harvested by hand. In the winery it sees a fermentation in wood, followed by a year in oak before bottling. The latter, La Croix Boisée (once called Cuvée Signature), again originates from chalky terroir with a fine clay topsoil. These vines are a little older at up to 35 years, and are harvested at 35 hl/ha. This also sees fermentation and ageing in oak. Both these cuvées are finely structured, elegant wines, with La Croix Boisée having the edge in tannic structure, although both have the substance and balance necessary to see them through a good period of ageing in the cellar. They have a pure expression of fruit and exhibit a fine structure. This typifies the style of the domaine; the wines are rich yet pure, cool and elegant, and this is true at al levels, whether the wine comes from river-soaked vines on sandy soils or from the finer limestone slopes. This is, in my opinion, one of Chinon's most admirable domaines, and tasting the 2005s on my visit to meet Bernard Baudry in 2007convinced me that he would certainly deserve a place in the top tier of any ranking of the appellation's best vignerons. These are beautiful wines, and Baudry knows it. Taste with him and you can see and hear how highly he rates this vintage, describing it simply as the best he has ever known. I am not inclined to disagree with him on this point! (6/12/05, updated 30/8/07, 6/8/08)
Contact details:
Address: 9 Coteau de Sonnay, Cravant les Coteaux, 37500 Chinon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 93 15 79
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 98 44 44
Internet:
www.chinon.com/vignoble/bernard-baudry
Bernard Baudry - Tasting Notes
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to locate stockists. Latest
notes:
Bernard Baudry Chinon 2006: One up from the entry-level, a blend of
terroirs with gravel predominating. There is plenty of very fresh and crisp
fruit on the nose here, which has a very typical style for the appellation.
Rather lean on the palate, with that fresh stony quality coming through here.
Showing a slightly bare structure at present. There is some appeal here, and
this is certainly approachable at the moment. 15.5/20 (July 2008)
Bernard Baudry Chinon Clos Guillot 2006: Young vines, but from a
limestone terroir. There is more evident substance here, both in terms of
the aromas and also in the mouth. There is a similar freshness to the nose, but
here with a little more density to the fruit, with good notes of cherries.
Although also showing in quite a lean fashion on the palate, there is increased
extract here, and a firmer style overall. This has more potential. 16.5+/20 (July 2008)
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux 2004: Here the origins are
gravelly, with deeper clay. This is showing some complexity now, at just four
years of age. Quite a meaty nose, spicy, with rich and macerated fruit. The
palate still displays a leanness despite the characterful nose, but it has
plenty of interest to offer. Drinking now, but will almost certainly give more
in the future. 16+/20 (July 2008)
Older notes:
Bernard Baudry Chinon Rosé 2006: An attractively coloured pink hue,
and a clean and rather leafy nose. Quite full bodied and structured on the
palate, dry, but showing only rather subdued flavours at present. Well formed,
firm rather than delicate, with a nice presence. Good. 15/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2006: Effectively a young vines
cuvée. Full of fruit on the nose. On the palate it has everything a young vines
cuvée shouldn't have; texture, extract and substance, all providing support for
some delicious, primary fruit flavour. This is really nice wine considering its
position in the portfolio. 16+/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux 2005: Another look at one of
Bernard Baudry's wines from this vintage. A vibrant colour, and a nose of dark and gravelly fruit with a pure, minerally, sandy character. Cool, stylish, rich and textured, grippy and
structured on the palate. This has wonderful quality, and yet does not even hint
at Baudry's success in the vintage with other cuvées. It remains very fruit
forward at present, and quite elegantly composed too. Very good indeed.
16-16.5+/20 (November 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux 2005: Gravel terroir. This
has a gorgeous colour. There is lovely primary fruit on the nose, berries with a
sandy edge. The palate is full, rounded, stylish and fresh, with fine acidity.
This has a very appealing style. 16.5+/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon Clos Guillot 2005: A deep, dark hue. Attractive
nose, plenty of primary fruit, backed up with mineral, stony nuances and a
little nuance of tobacco. Full, tannic, finely structured wine from a limestone
terroir. There is plenty of potential here. Lovely. 17+/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2005: A deep, youthful hue.
Rather less open and evocative than the preceding wines. But certainly no less
serious. A full, creamy, deep, extracted and tannic palate. Not particularly
charming or aromatic at the moment, but this still has absolutely fine
potential. Mine will be resting in the cellar for a few years before I pop
another one. 18.5-19+/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot 2003: This wine has an
attractive dark colour, and makes an impact with a nose rich in raspberry and
blackberry fruit, with an edge of fresh garden mint, and plenty of sooty, smoky,
minerally charcoal character to the bouquet. Full, but dry and plainly
structured on the palate which I find very attractive, with a firm, reserved
presence thanks to the dry, sooty, grippy tannins. There is simply delightful
texture and extract Put simply, this is gorgeous, both reserved and yet
immediately seductive. Drink now, but will go for 5-10 years in the cellar I
think. 18+/20 (December 2005)
Label
Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2003: This has a deep colour
still. It still has that rich, creamy, almost fortified nose that I recall from
my last tasting. There is also that super-ripe blueberry character that marks
the vintage in so many regions of Europe. Despite this it has an appealing
structure on the palate, and some good acidity too. Nice, rounded style with the
substance to go for years in the cellar. 18.5+/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2003: A deep but vibrant hue to
this wine, which bears a nose rich in ripe, dark blueberry fruits, seasoned with
woodsmoke and a concentrated earthy richness. What's evident on the palate is
wonderful structure; this wine is rich in tannin, but also has good acidity.
Dark fruits dominate the palate, which despite obvious extraction and
concentration still maintains a supple presence. This is a serious, age-worthy
Chinon which should not be approached now, as it positively demands 4-6 years in
the cellar, but will be better with up to ten I feel. 18.5+/20 (December 2005)
Label
Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 1999: A nice depth of colour
here, considering the wine now has eight years under its belt. Stylish, mature
Chinon nose, smoky tobacco prominent. Enticing, certainly. There is some appeal
here and I don't think this is at peak yet. Perhaps this is a better vintage
than I realise for the appellation. 16.5+/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 1997: An enticing nose here, certainly
the more immediately attractive of the two oldest vintages served here. Lots of
complex, mature old Chinon character, but still with a finely presented
freshness. Elegant composition and presence on the palate. Smoky nuances through
to the finish. Really appealing and plenty of style. Drinking now, but will
continue to improve yet. 17.5+/20 (July 2007)
Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 1996: Hmm, not so expressive on the
nose here. It isn't showing a lot of aromatic character, and things aren't
picking up on the palate either. It seems a little dead to me. I know some of
these latter bottles have been open a little while (as Baudry had been tasting
them over dinner with his American importer the previous evening) and it hasn't lasted well overnight. To make it clear, I don't
think this is representative of the 1996. A shame. Not scored.
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