Yonder Hill Merlot (Stellenbosch) 2001: A glossy,
red-black wine, fading to a red rim - there's no sign of age here. Initially on
the nose it offers aromas typical for the cépage - plums and chocolate - backed
up by some spicy oak. With extended exposure to air, however, this develops real
class - dense, smoky black fruit mixed with rich, crumbly sugary fruitcake.
Throughout it displays fine, ripe tannins, underpinning an opulent texture and a
wealth of spicy black fruits. Finely balanced acidity. This is tremendous stuff
- provided you decant for a decent length of time. Pomerol for a tenner,
anybody? Very good, excellent potential.
(28/11/03)