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Castello di Querceto

Located in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, just 25 kilometres from Florence and not much further from Siena, is Castello di Querceto, today home to the François family. Their residence dates from the 16th Century, although these buildings were erected only to replace those that had burnt down shortly before; there is perhaps much more history on this estate, which lies on the Via Cassia Imperiale, a road constructed by Emperor Adriano in the year 123 AD, than we realise. At the time of the reconstruction this was home to the Canigliani family, and thereafter the Pitti family, before it came into the hands of Carlo François in 1897. It is Alessandro François, a descendent of Carlo, that since 1978 has taken the reins at this estate.

The grounds amount to 190 hectares, of which 60 hectares are planted to vines. These vineyards lie at an altitude of 400-530 metres, surrounding the family home. Despite the impressive heritage, these are relatively young vines, most having been planted between 1975 and 1985. The density of vines is not high, as although recent vineyards have been planted at 7575 vines per hectares, older ones are planted at a rather generous 3330 vines per hectare. There are 22 distinct plots, each one tended in a environmentally-considerate fashion, pruning hard and thinning out as required, with only organic fertilisers and largely organic treatments. Unsurprisingly Sangiovese dominates, and of course there is also Canaiolo, but there are other varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah amongst others, perhaps reflecting the François family's French origins. The fruit is harvested by hand, and no doubt the same is true of the extensive olive groves that also grace the Querceto estate.

The grapes are fermented in a modern cellar, equipped with a pneumatic press and stainless steel vats ranging from 130 to 300 hectolitres in size. The harvest is fermented and bottled according to vineyard, Alessandro favouring a cru system of bottling the wines according to their origin, their vineyard, rather than just an estate blend producing large volume Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and similar. There are a number of different cuvées, many bottled as Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) rather than Chianti, primarily because they feature the international varieties, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, listed above.

My first experience with these wines concern the 2004 and 2003 vintages, samples of which were sent to me by the François family for my examination. Further details on blends, varieties, yields, origins and the like are included in my tasting notes which are listed below. (20/1/09)

Contact details:
Address: Castello di Querceto S.p.A., Via A. François, 2, 50020 Greve in Chianti
Telephone: +39 055 85921
Fax: +39 055 8592200
Internet: www.castellodiquerceto.it

Castello di Querceto - Tasting Notes

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Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Picchio 2004: This dark and glossy wine is 92% Sangiovese and 8% Canaiolo, the latter once the mainstay of Chianti but now for many reasons merely a bit player. The fruit is sourced from the Il Picchio vineyard, a 3.8 hectare site planted in 1983. It is harvested at 35 hl/ha, fermented at 28ºC and aged in barrel for 12 months and bottle for 6 months. It has a rather tight nose, showing firm pencil lead and stone characters to the red fruit. It starts off very well on the palate, fairly rich although in a full and broad style rather than fat or creamy. Firm structure underneath, carrying more of that woody cherry fruit with an appealing vein of substance, although at the finish there is a sheet of rather aggressive acidity. This may soften with time in the cellar, but whether you drink it now or later it is a wine that needs food as a foil I think. Good. 15.5+/20

Castello di Querceto La Corte (IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale) 2004: This wine is 100% Sangiovese, made entirely from the fruit of the 4 hectare La Corte vineyard. It is harvested at 35 hl/ha and managed very much in the same way as Il Picchio; controlled fermentation, 12 months in barrel and 6 in bottle. This has a much more harmonious character that the rather more fierce Il Picchio. The nose carries cherries and bacon, with a note of sweetened cranberry. A good texture on entry, fresh but well held together, quite broad savoury and rounded, but with plenty of smoky, cranberry-like acidic fruit. Firm, gently tannic, good with food but it also works without to a degree. 16+/20

Castello di Querceto Cignale (IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale) 2004: Here the fruit, 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, comes from two vineyards, La Sorgente and Il Ponticini. The wine is named for the cignale, or wild boar, that roam between the vines generally creating havoc and, where possible, eating the harvest. The yield is low, just 25 hl/ha, and there is up to 24 months in oak after fermentation. A very dark hue, concentrated, red-black at the core, deep red at the rim. The nose has the aromas of cherries and cranberries, with a sweet cola-tinge, and crunchy-fresh but ripe blackcurrants, with a seam of sweet, smoky wood too. Moderate texture on entry, displaying both the freshness of acidity and a thick vein of slightly raw, charcoaly tannins. These stay on the palate throughout, alongside a moderate concentration of fruit which leads into a bitter, dark chocolate, plum and cranberry finish. It has less flesh on its bones than you might imagine, a firm structure and savoury, mouth-puckering structure, but it is certainly a good wine. Certainly potential here for the cellar, and I would say it absolutely needs another 2-3 years before this is really approachable. Very good. 17+/20

Castello di Querceto Il Querciolaia (IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale) 2003: In this cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon takes a role, although Sangiovese still dominates at 65% of the blend. The fruit is sourced from the Querciolaia de'Pitti vineyard, a 4 hectare plot established in 1981. After fermentation it sees up to 20 months in barrel before bottling. The wine itself has a dark hue. On the nose, black olives, then bright ripe fruits, sweet roasted elements, with a perfumed violet edge and aromas of warm, spiced wood. Very attractive entry, cool and nicely defined, fattening up in the midpalate, showing more dark, dense, roasted richness. Lots of cranberry and cherry fruit density here, lots of substance, with decent acidity despite the heat of the vintage. Really appealing, not rich or chewy but with a burnt, roasted character in the background. A touch tannic at the finish. Very good indeed. 17+/20

Castello di Querceto Il Sole di Alessandro (IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale) 2003: This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, from vines only planted in 1995. The yield is 50 hl/ha, the fermentation temperature controlled and the wine going into oak for up to 24 months. It has a dense hue, dark with a raspberry red rim, still obviously youthful. The nose has concentrated cherry and berry fruit, dense and ripe but still with a fresh, bright confidence, although with a high-toned note at the edge. It has a gentle, fleshy substance at the start, a ripe, sweet and rounded character, before showing a leaner, smoky, cranberry-infused midpalate which has a very attractive savoury-sappy character. There is a little tinge of bacon fat too. Nicely composed, with good grip behind the fruit, this is a really impressive wine. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20